The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Posts: 5

Greetings to all from Yorkshire.
I write to introduce myself, this is my first offering.
A couple of months ago I bought a 1999, diesel DHSE with 222,000 miles on it. (Quote from the guy I bought it from: "Eeee, there's more works on it than doesn't". Hmmmm).
Shortly after getting it I needed a zebra connector for the Hevac. While speaking to the zebra guy in Spalding, he told me of this Forum. Wow. A game-changer. Up until then I believed I was on my own with the P38's foibles. It was an eye-opener to read the posts. Such in-depth knowledge, offered freely by selfless enthusiasts, is not only refreshing, but confidence-boosting. Suddenly, I'm not on my own... Thankyou all for that. (I'm still laughing at "Heart of gold, nerves of steel..." - What is the YCHJCYA2PDTHFH Club ?).
Jobs I knew abought when I bought the P38:
"King-pin" ball joints,
PS oil leak (near the box, not necessarily from the box),
Injector pump leak,
Hot starting,
Shockers & bump stops,
Front calipers (pads binding),
Tensioner - aux drive belt,
Auto gearbox - 'tired/lifeless',
Mirrors not adjusting.
Although I'm not at the mechanical level as many of you, I was an HGV mechanic for twenty years, so half-competent.
Vehicles I've had started in 1967 with an Austin Champ, then a Ford GPW (their version of the Willys GP), many LR's including a self-built 3.9 V8 Auto and a couple of Lightweights, a Haflinger, three Classic RR's, a P38 (sold fifteen years ago - the electrics beat me). Presently a 1994 300Tdi LR 90.
On the recommendation of Phil in Spalding, and backed up by this Forum, I bought a Nanocom. Although I've used it for the first time this morning - it knows more about me than I know about it.
Having started to de-pimp the P38, I've removed the side-steps, and the 'hoops' from the wrap-around bull bar. Does anyone know the part numbers of the two brackets which the bull bar mounts to (the ones that sit over the front bumper)?
If I remove the driving lights from the A-frame, will a 'bulb failure' message be generated?
Doubtless I'll be in touch again.
Once more, I'm chuffed to have found this Forum.
My best to you all,

Posts: 6830


As for your jobs, headlining is easy if there are two, or preferably three, of you. Hardest part is a toss up between getting the sunroof cover out or opening the little flaps over the screws on the sun visor clips.

Sunroof, many have tried and most have failed, with working climate control I'm not sure why you'd need it. Don't waste your money on the 3D printed replacement bits for the mechanism, I did, I then spent 3 days filing and fettling until everything moved smoothly and it went crack on the second time of opening it.

Top and bottom ball joints are reasonably simple if you have the correct tool for pressing the old ones out and the new ones in. If you don't, find someone who does, has done it before and can do it for you.

Can't help you at all on the engine stuff, I don't do oil burners but someone else can probably help.

Shocks, original were Boge but they are NLA. The Britpart ones are dirt cheap and are supposed to be the same as the Boge originals. A couple of people have fitted them and found them to be fine. No idea how long they will last but have got to be worth it for the price. Bump stops just push on so no problems there, although a smear of silicone or rubber grease will help them slip on.

Brake callipers may well be the sliding pins on the calliper carrier not sliding any more rather than the calliper itself. Easy check is if one pad is worn thing that the other.

Exhaust, try Maltings Off Road, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272214704154

Gearbox may be fine. Not sure how it works on the diesel but on the petrol the gearbox takes it's input from the MAF sensor so the gearbox ECU uses that to gauge load and hence when to change gear. So a gearbox problem may be linked to an engine problem rather than the gearbox itself.

Mirrors, who knows? It might be a failing switchpack, dead motors in the mirrors or stripped gears. You'd need to check if power is getting to the mirror first. Your Nanocom will allow you to move the mirrors if they will. If they can be moved with the Nanocom, it is the switchpack.

Amused me that Phil suggested you get a Nanocom when he doesn't have one himself. I was at his house on Friday to use mine to calibrate his EAS......

I suspect the bull bar brackets will be part of the bull bar kit rather than having a part number of their own. See if you can find them on http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234

Depends on how the driving lights have been wired in but you shouldn't get a bulb failure message. Should be easy enough to disconnect them and try it.

Posts: 147

It is a great forum very helpful people who point you in the right direction. Gilbert’s is a gold mine of info and gets back to you quickly. Does Phil still have his Holland and Holland?

Posts: 452

It sounds like you have quite a bit of mechanical experience, and also Land Rover experience. Once you get your P38 sorted you’ll love it.