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In brief my P38 is now running (mostly) very well on a replacement engine with about 120k on it. Engine was in a few days before a big trip to the Isle of Mull last August, and it performed faultlessly until the way home when it stuttered and died, Nanocom showed a fuelling issue fault logged, it started straight away and appeared to run well so we continued. All in all it happened a handful of times on the remainder of the journey.... not always bringing us to a stop, mostly it cleared and picked up again. I put it down to dirty fuel, put some Redex in the system and changed the new filter for a clean one. Since then it happened only a couple of times on local runs and I subsequently did a trip to Stonehaven near Aberdeen without any trouble at all. Cured I thought........... no!

Happened again yesterday and today on local runs, yesterday I was down to 1/4 tank (hoping the price would go down!) but now I have filled up and it still happened.

In tank sender/pump unit isn't that old... filter is very fresh.... am I just being unlucky with diesel or does it indicate some other problem? Any thoughts or previous experience of similar appreciated.

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It does sound to me like your intank pump. However, even with a non working pump, the FIP should pull the diesel through if it is more than half full.
I think you need to check a few things first to rule out what it can and can't be. Run some diesel out of the drain on the filter into a jug and have a look see. It may be dirty diesel or even water in the diesel. Did you fill up at a garage out in the sticks? Lot of flooding around the country over the past month.
Check the clear fuel line from the filter to the FIP for bubbles. Then unbolt the banjo on the FIP and put the pipe into a jug. Turn on the ignition and diesel should pump out. The book says min 180 mls in 10 secs. My car, a 2000 MY, pumps diesel as soon as the ignition key is turned. I think earlier cars it is when you crank. Make sure you don't drop the two copper washers on the banjo. Easy to do.
It might be something else. An intermittent problem may be difficult to solve. Have you been running it on veg oil? Can we rule that out?

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Thanks Dave, ... I was loooking at Fab-Rats on the tube and wondering about in-tank pump performance.... he was swapping out the pump on a Suzuki build. But filling the tank didn't seem to be the instant cure which I was hoping for.
You are right of course I should do the flow test, ... weather permitting I'll have a crack at that tomorrow. I am half way through putting in a Diresta rad at the moment, just trying to reconcile the slightly different fixings.
Yep can rule out veg oil and I am pretty sure there is no air in the pipe, but I will have another look.

Interested in your 4HP24 swap btw, was that easy to do?

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Yes, the HP24 swap was easy because the person who did it (Dave Ashcroft) knew what they were doing. Ha Ha.

I got it done by Ashcroft Transmissions and fitted by one of their recommended garages.

Another thought on your engine problem ... there is a stop solenoid with a plug on the side of the FIP. Check the wiring is OK. It may have been damaged when you changed the engine.

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Update, ... drained a few glugs from the bottom of the filter, no water or anything, and flow tested the in tank pump..... seems to give 190mls according to my Lidl measuring jug. Can't see any visible issue with the stop solenoid; also I tend to think a break in a wire or something of that nature would only get worse with time but who knows....
Direnza rad has had to go to the local machine shop, to have the drain plug rectified, had to put the old one back for the time being.

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The only other things that come to mind are the leak off pipes between the injectors. Shouldn't cause it to cut out though. Maybe a rough tickover.
What about no.4 injector? Have you got a spare to try out?
Stuttering and dying is fuel. Maybe the FIP. Its a big job to change it.

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Leak off pipes all new and the top of the engine is still clean and dry since it was all changed so I'd be fairly confident there. FIP, .... don't fancy that while it runs so well otherwise: starting in particular is much better since the change. I'll monitor it for the time being, we have another trip coming up so that could be interesting. Thanks for the sounding board though Dave it does help just to bounce things across.

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The problem is simple ---- you need to plug computer in and set diesel pump ---- my mates DSE kept doing what your ones doing even stalling
Check whatever you want BUT set pump up 1st
That's why I don't like BMW --- chain drive so stretch= pump out
I could say tank pump etc but as Diesel engine tuning and building is my day job thought I'd point you in right direction

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Well I am grateful, Thanks for the tip, As it ran and started so well I planned to leave well alone but I will look at that first.

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No worries mate you will be surprised by how little chain stretch throws fueling right out
Hope you get it sorted out soon

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Symes, will the timing chain on a 2.5 diesel BMW engine be stretched with 117,000 miles on the clock ? I posted a thread on "Oily bits" looking at the same issue - firstly, the engine in mine has decided to become difficult to re-start after running for 20 miles or so [ my other thread says possibly the leak off pipes - I haven't been outside to check this yet], and secondly, the engine stalled just the once when I went to drive off.

Again, my previous thread has suggestions, I think perhaps by yourself and possibly Richard [Gilbertd], that the timing chain has stretched, or the FIP could be knackered.

Both of the last suggestions will mean getting my local guy to start looking. I have no problem doing the leak off pipes, straightforward from what I can see. But is that the simple problem.

What will "Nannycom" show if it is a timing chain, or an FIP problem ? Will I be able to tell if there is an issue with the chain or the injector pump ?

Pierre3.

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Could well be chain stretch/tensioner wear
What you need to do is plug in computer and check fuel values ---- if out Then remove inlet manifold --- you can fire up without it
You will need special socket to loosen top of pump ----- cranked 12mm ring spanner to loosen pump( mark it to block 1st) don't forget bolt under rear of pump
Tom at rover views helped me out by reading off values while I did adjustments

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Hi Symes, many thanks for your reply and advice.

Just another bit of information - I started the P38 this afternoon. It took three or four turnovers before it fired up, and then the motor ran qute "lumpy", missing every few seconds. The engine was cold, not having been started for a week, but it continued to misfire pretty continously for ten minutes, until I turned it off. I decided not to take it for a drive in case it cut out.

Again, does this sound like the timing chain being out of kilter ?

Pierre3.

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Pierre, Symes will no doubt chime in, but missing sounds like you have a problem with one (or more) injectors or lines. There are ways of testing which cylinder it is assuming it is consistant. But really it is impossible for him to say without looking at the car, it could be a number of things. How did you get on with leak off pipes and checking for air? Can you perhaps video the engine running? It might give a better idea of where to start.
Might be no help to you but my trouble seems to have been a MAF sensor issue, cleaning that up has apparently solved my problem. But our symptoms differ with mine being total fuel starvation.

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Hi, thanks for your advice, Blanco. Sorry to say that I haven't been out to check yet, the weather hasn't been very conducive to working out on the drive. I am trying to collect advice on where to check when the weather gets a bit better so all the really useful suggestions posted here will give me a heads-up on what to look for, and how to determine how far I can go myself.

By the way, my engine is a diesel, does that have a MAF sensor ?

Thanks again, for your time.

Pierre3.

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yeah it will have a maf sensor would be just under the inlet manifold

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Hi, karlos01, thanks for that information. Maybe something else which may need to be addressed.

Pierre3.

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Some DSE have egr valve ---- that can cause issues ---- so yes could be mag or egr Also vacuum pipe fitting from filter to bottom of inlet manifold can block with gunge --- or sometime can split vacuum hose