rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Member
Joined:
Posts: 93

My P38 was never fitted with mudflaps but I've now managed to source 4 genuine ones in good condition, sadly no fixings. I'd like to keep my P38 moderately standard. Do LR sell fixing kits separately or could anyone recommend what aftermarket screw work best?

Member
Joined:
Posts: 209

For best results and a chance of removing them in future then No14 (6.3mm) hex head stainless self drilling screws and No14 zinc plated (or anodised) U clip captive nuts. For the fronts the lower fixings also require plastic captive nuts but these generally come with the mud flap. If not then CZA4705L is the part number. Upper fixings need a 1” or 1.5” long screw and lower fixings may need a longer 2” or so screw. The captive U clip captive nuts are fixed around the holes previously occupied by the plastic fixings for the wheel arch liner which will need to be removed.

If you want to look OEM then the screws need to be black cross head self tappers but beware that because of where they are and the environment they experience they are traditionally nigh on impossible to remove after a few years!

Do not over tighten the fixing screws as this will cause the rear edges of the mud flaps to come away from their snug fit on the bodywork with an unsightly gap appearing.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 781

I changed all my screws and bolts for stainless steel and I cut out new brackets from a sheet of stainless. Keeping it standard is not important to me.
Mud flaps and wheel arch liners come off easy now.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 337

^ What do you mean by brackets Dave? Do you mean you did some ‘surgery’ to remove the metal insert inside the guards themselves, or is there another bracket somewhere I’ve not seen, or forgotten?