rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Member
Joined:
Posts: 8

Greetings from Yorkshire, UK.
Nine months ago I bought a '99 DHSE with 222,000 miles. Since then I've been steadily working on it rejuvenating the tired bits (using this forum to benefit from the astounding wealth of accumulated knowledge, for which thanks to all).
Last week I got round to tackling the LH Blend Motor. Took various bit off but still couldn't even see it.
Someone advised that this problem could be the result of a stuck flap, rather than failure of the motor, and suggested turning the starter switch from zero to position 2 and back to zero several times to get the HEVAC to cycle the motor/flap - thereby 'freeing it off'. I tried that - no joy.
Lightbulb moment: Knowing that the motor is rated at 7 volts, without removing anything else, I used a PP3 - 9 volt battery to cycle the motor back-and-forth a few times. It worked. Exclamation mark and prayer-book icons extinguished. (Am under no illusions - I realise they may come back on...).
Method: From the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual, page K4-7, with the HEVAC control unit removed - use pins 11 & 12 on plug C1597.
While there, consider cycling the other two motors as well, pins 9&10 and pins 6&16.
In my ETM's Connector Views Z6, connector C1597 doesn't feature, so to identify the position of the pins (not the colours), I referred to C1286 on page Z6-96.
When doing it, the area needs to be quiet so you can hear the motor cycling. Each 'traverse' took between six and nine seconds.
If I knew how to add a picture I would do, but...
While posting this, eventually I'd like to remove the heater ducting which is close to a) the driver's left knee and b) the passenger's right knee (RHD car). I realise the rear passengers would 'suffer'... Does anyone have the LH & RH replacement trunking/link from a non-a/c system that they are prepared to sell ? For reference, these are illustrated in the Workshop Manual, section 80, pages 5 and 2.
I now have various bits to sell - and to buy. Can I do it on this Forum ?
Best to all,
Paul.
.

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 8082

As my car was originally supplied to Greater Manchester Police, the ducts to feed the rear vents were not fitted (as probably the only thing kept in the back on a Motorway patrol car would have been cones and the like). The ends where they would have connected to the main duct were just blanked off with some industrial strength duct tape.

Exercising the blend motors is a good idea but ensure the plug is disconnected from the HEVAC. I've blown a HEVAC up by putting volts into it doing exactly as you did.

How to post pictures https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1021-inserting-an-image-from-imgur

Buying and selling https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1983-the-place-for-sales-swaps-wants-offers-gifts-and-giveaways

Member
Joined:
Posts: 8

Thankyou for the reply. I rejected duct tape thinking that with the heat involved the 'sticky' would become 'slidey'. From what you say, not so.
Thanks for the links as well.
Paul.
.

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 8082

It isn't normal duct tape but some pretty hefty stuff that LR obviously use for the purpose. You could probably use Gorilla tape or something like that.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 674

I’ve had Gorilla tape on mine for a few years with no issues.