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I ordered a new fob from JLR and I’m trying to get my BECM ready to programme. On the Nanocom, I go BECM, Settings, Alarm…it says EKA Enabled. Then I go BECM, Utility, I get the page Odometer/reset, then it says “Disabled”, EKA then a blank square. I can go into the blank square and write a 4 digit code, which will show up in the previously blank square, but if I close and reopen the window it is a blank square again. (I’m pretty sure I need EKA working to sync my new fob). What am I doing wrong?

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I am not 100% sure, but I believe that you can not enter an new EKA into an Locked BECM.
(all of mine are unlocked) I have heard of BECMs "Forgetting" the EKA and displaying blank space.
EKA on, off or programed or not should not affect key fob sync. Unless the BECM is in an alarmed state, in which case you cannot sync fobs.

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Ok, thanks Tom. Maybe syncing the new fob will be as simple as turning the door lock either way and pressing the lock or unlock button.
How did you unlock your BECM? Mine is locked but Nanocom has a warning that if you unlock it you can’t go back. Can I unlock it with my Nanocom and not worry about it?

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BECM comes from the factory unlocked, the dealer puts in the EKA and who knows what else, then locks it before it is
delivered to customer.
Once locked, it needs specialist tools or a Testbook to unlock. I have had all mine unlocked by Scotty, who now is no longer the BECM Dr. (someone on .net did take over from him.....)
My HSK was unlocked by Turner for the PO.
Nano actually warns that locking cannot be undone, not vice verse.

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Okay I see.

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On a locked BeCM, it won't even display the EKA (or the lockset barcode for that matter) for security reasons. The EKA is stored in the BeCM not the key so the only thing you will need to do is sync the key in the door lock as a 97 won't have the passive sync feature like a later car. Put the key in the door lock with all doors and tailgate closed, turn the key to lock and hold it there, while holding it there, press and hold the lock button on the fob until the LED flashes faster, release the button on the fob then turn the key back to centre. Then repeat only turning to unlock and pressing the unlock button on the fob. That should put it into sync and allow the remote to lock and unlock the car.

However, I'm slightly confused. You say you ordered a key from JLR but from numerous posts on rr.net, NAS keyfobs are NLA. NAS fobs use 315MHz instead of 433MHz like ones used in most of the rest of the world. This is down to the FCC. Radio frequency use ideally needs to be coordinated between adjoining countries so the EU proposed the use of 433MHz back in the 1980's. As RF doesn't know where one country stops and another starts (that is Radio Frequencies not the Russian Federation), it makes sense for the same frequency to be used across continents. However, as the US is isolated, in as much as it only has land borders with Mexico and Canada, you are forced to use the same as the USA. Hence 315MHz is used in Canada and if you ordered a replacement fob and gave them the VIN number, they would know it was 315MHz and, as far as I was aware, you'd be told they are no longer available. Unless JLR have listened to those on the opposite side of the Atlantic and have produced another batch of 315MHz fobs.

While you can lock an unlocked BeCM with a Nanocom, once locked it stays that way. They were programmed at the factory to an individual car then lock it so nobody can go in and mess things up.

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Thanks as always Richard! I am concerned that the frequency of the fob will be wrong but I ordered it from the local JLR dealer so I hope it will be correct. I suppose if it doesn’t work I may need to order a 433 MHz receiver (I don’t think I’ll get thrown in jail for using the wrong frequency). I’ve only ever had one fob for my vehicle and it’s now 26 years old so if I’m lucky the new one will work and last another 20+ years.

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Sticking a 433MHz receiver in would work, there is no programming or anything like that in them so it would be a plug and play job. I confirmed a dead one in one car by simply taking the receiver out of mine and putting it in another car.

When you placed the order the dealer must have asked for the VIN so the key blade could be cut to match your car, so that would tell them it should be 315MHz. Maybe they are available again.....

I'll admit I've only ever had one fob for mine. It is one of those things I have often thought I should order before they run out of 433MHz ones too but never got around to it. I've had a couple of key blanks cut so have manual keys, one at home and one secreted under the car (no point in having a spare at home if I've just dropped my keys down a drain 1,000 miles from home). I can enter the EKA with my Nanocom and after that, if I lock with the key I can unlock with the key and not need to put the EKA in.

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I had also read the the 315 MHz fobs were NLA, but I thought I should give it a try. I expected them to say they weren’t available. Yes I gave them the VIN.

I also need to try to get a couple of keys cut. The lock shop I’ve checked doesn’t have the blanks and said they wouldn’t cut one even if they did. Maybe I can order a couple of blanks from the UK and find someone who will cut them.

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They are a BMW blank and any key cutting place here will do one. My local place didn't have the blank from stock but ordered a couple in for me once I told them what it was and they cut them from my key. It didn't show up when they looked for Land Rover keys but once they knew what it was the could check their catalogue against my key and confirm it.

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Ok , good information. Thanks

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I also like the idea of having a spare key hidden somewhere on the car but I never did it because it would be missing the transponder for the immobiliser...did you get one and attach it to the spare one or did you disable the immobiliser....?

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Despite what a number of people will have you believe, you can't disable the immobiliser, it is integrated in the BeCM and engine ECU. If the car is locked with the remote and unlocked with the key, it will need the EKA putting in. However, if you unlock with the key and enter the EKA with the Nanocom, you can then lock and unlock with the key without needing to enter it again. If you simply enter the EKA with the key, you will need to enter it every tie you unlock the car. So If I locked it with the remote as I always do, then lost the key, I could retrieve my spare key blade, unlock the car, enter the EKA with the Nanocom (which lives in the car) and from then on I can lock and unlock with the key. Locking will still turn on the alarm and immobiliser and unlocking will turn them both off. This will work fine until the keyswitch in the door latch wears and stops working, then you will be able to unlock the car but it won't turn off the immobiliser so you are into the locked out scenario that people that always use the key will find themselves in sooner or later.

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I must have entered the EKA with my Nanocom at some point because I can lock it with the remote and unlock it with the key without any issues.

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Gilbertd wrote:

Despite what a number of people will have you believe, you can't disable the immobiliser,

Despite what our esteemed colleague says, It IS now possible to, if not "disable" the immobiliser, it can be easily "Bypassed".
I have installed a small board inside my ECUs from Simon "Psidoc" on 3 of mine, and can say with certainty, that when testing them, I have caused the immobiliser to be activated intentionally, and the engine fires right up! This is on a Thor/ Bosch engine.......The Gems immobiliser was beaten into submission by Lee in Oz years
ago......
I understand Gilbert does not necessarily approve off these work arounds, but I say, if it keeps them going and stops some poor owner from fire bombing their Rangie, it's worth it!
My Missus now will take her HSK (which did not come with a fob)......anywhere, and I am confident she will always be able to get it started!
It can still go to bumpstops, but at lease it goes!

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Harv wrote:

I must have entered the EKA with my Nanocom at some point because I can lock it with the remote and unlock it with the key without any issues.

That's odd. What you describe being the best way I know to annoy the BECM causing it to immobilise.
You should have to input EKA each time you do that!
If you lock with fob, you should need to always unlock with fob, otherwise, you are stealing it!

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Bolt wrote:

Gilbertd wrote:

Despite what a number of people will have you believe, you can't disable the immobiliser,

Despite what our esteemed colleague says, It IS now possible to, if not "disable" the immobiliser, it can be easily "Bypassed".
I have installed a small board inside my ECUs from Simon "Psidoc" on 3 of mine, and can say with certainty, that when testing them, I have caused the immobiliser to be activated intentionally, and the engine fires right up! This is on a Thor/ Bosch engine.......The Gems immobiliser was beaten into submission by Lee in Oz years
ago......
I understand Gilbert does not necessarily approve off these work arounds, but I say, if it keeps them going and stops some poor owner from fire bombing their Rangie, it's worth it!
My Missus now will take her HSK (which did not come with a fob)......anywhere, and I am confident she will always be able to get it started!
It can still go to bumpstops, but at lease it goes!

Does that board look like this one by any chance?
enter image description here

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No,
It is a whole lot simpler than that.
3 wires: B+, B-, and a signal lead that you solder on to one off the leads to the header plug, which you clip first
You also do a 1 wire bypass at the BECM to eliminate it's "Vote" on the starter motor when the key is turned.
Is that a Turner job there?
That ECU appears to be fried as well!

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So, just for my understanding, the P38 does not have the "immobiliser" which consists of a small transponder in the key case and a pickup coil around the ingnition key slot ?

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Bolt wrote:

No,
It is a whole lot simpler than that.
3 wires: B+, B-, and a signal lead that you solder on to one off the leads to the header plug, which you clip first
You also do a 1 wire bypass at the BECM to eliminate it's "Vote" on the starter motor when the key is turned.
Is that a Turner job there?
That ECU appears to be fried as well!

No idea who did it. Its partially fried, only 4 of the injectors on it actually fire. I discovered this in my D2 (and yes its a p38 ecu it would appear, or at least its in the case of a P38 ecu rather than a D2!)

No idea who did it, but given the appearance it doesn't look particually professionally done does it!