The bass speaker on my driver's door is silent.
I substituted a known good one from a back door: nothing.
I note the wire colours in the doors bear no resemblance the the ones coming out of the crossovers in the load area. In fact both front doors have the same colour pairs for mid/hi and bass.
There's no continuity from the Black/Green wire in the load area to either of the spade connectors in the T-piece at the RH door.
Next moves?
Feed for the RH side speakers goes via another connector but the ETM doesn't show a location. It also doesn't make a lot of sense as it shows C0310 plugged into C0308 but C0308 is a 16 way and C0310 is an 18 way although the Green/Black and Black/Green are shown as on pins 3 and 4 on both. Looking at the ETM for earlier cars, shows the feed to the RH speakers as going via a connector behind the RH kick panel so maybe it is there and has suffered the dreaded green corrosion.
Thanks, mate. I found a YouTube where a guy had rear door speakers probs and the cause was exactly what you describe.
I've removed the soil kick plate and d/s kick panel have disconnected all the connectors. All are annoyingly bright and clean!
I aborted due to the heat but will get back on it today and report back.
The speaker wires seem to be whatever they had in abundance when they deleted the door amplifiers!
The later vehicles at least had a connector with a load of the speaker wires going through it buried under the carpet behind the centre console (in the rear foot well). I found it when I had the whole interior of my p38 out years ago.
However, it seemed to be pretty secure and not likely to be able to get water in it, so don't think that will be your problem.
The next place I would check would be the wiring from the door into the vehicle. If you pull the rubber cable sheath off from the bodywork side, you can just get the connectors out of the bodywork. The speaker cables run through one of the 3? Connectors stuffed into the A pillar, and they are also known for getting green and horrible. You can probe for continuity there aswell, to be able to tell if your is there, or in the door wiring, or on the vehicle wiring.
Thanks, Marty! We were at our wits end. We traced the Green\Yellow, Yellow\Green wires to the elbow between the door and the car. I thought they went down into the footwell and backwards under the kick plates, but they aren't in any of the connectors behind that footwell side panel.
Tried following them from the sheath entry with a borescope shoved into the gap at the side of the dashboard but didn't get far with that idea. I'll pop off the A-pillar trim and have a look.
Thanks, Marty. we'd never have found that without your advice. I'll attempt to insert an image and hope an admin can tweak it to work.
Both doors have the same wiring colours. LH door matches the loom as described in your spreadsheet, RH door mismatched as shown in the image:
Yellow/White door wires change to Black/White and Green/Yellow door wires change to Green/Black. Nightmare.
Surprisingly, continuity through the sheath into the door is fine. The cable run to the back is knackered for BOTH Black/Green and Green/Black twisted pair. The adjacent ones for mid/hi are fine... Seems a bit odd.
I'm not in the mood for even more trim removal now, so will tackle it tomorrow. Thanks again to you and to Gilbert.
PS Where does the loom cross from driver's side to the passenger's side where the DSP was?
Yeah, the wiring in the later ones is a mess with colour codes - it's almost a case of "what do we have left... oh use that now"...
I think the wiring diagram/list that I put together was from RAVE and what was listen in there, but I think I also saw in mine when I took the door card off that the wires in the RHF door loom were the same as the LHF, and weren't what matched RAVE after all.... not the most helpful!
Interesting that the Green/Black and Black/Green are both faulty.... I could have expected one, but not the other.... you definitely have continuity on both of them from the speaker connector through into the vehicle somewhere? They are the wires for the Bass speaker in the door, and are (from memory) thicker wires than the mid/hi.
I have just looked back at the pictures I took when I had all my interior out of the P38 after I bought it (as it was manky and I re-carpeted it, so literally pulled the entire interior out). The connector which I believe is the one you are looking for is right behind the BECM in the rear passenger footwell (drivers side) - it's a big grey connector. The loom then carries on across behind the centre console (under the carpet) and then under the back of the passenger seat, and into the sill back to the LHR wing area where the DSP amp resides.
This pic is from when I had the interior of my P38 out, and I've circled what I think is the connector that the stereo wiring goes through...
Hope this helps,
Marty
Thanks, Marty!
I found the small grey connector in the A-pillar. 5 wires, a pair for mid/hi, a pair for bass and (bizarrely) a wire which controls the tailgate release.
The mid/hi pair both show continuity to the back of the car (I made up an extended lead for my meter). The wire for the tailgate is fine, too, because that works and stops when we unplug it.
Viewing the female plug from the front the bass speakers are pins 3 and 4 with the mid/hi in 1 and 2 and tailgate on 5. There was a tiny bit of blue/green but it's been hosed with WD40 Fast Drying Contact Cleaner. No continuity to the load area, no sound.
The failure of the pair is very odd, particularly as the mid/hi follow the same route...
Should they be twisted for the whole run? Sooz found some running straight in some of the bunches.
That connector under the seat is my last hope of finding an obvious failure. Thanks, mate!
PS Is it possible to feed a signal into the wire and non-destructively detect the break or is 12v too low?
That is odd on those wires. Hopefully something will show up with that connector. Also worth checking in the wiring loom in the sill under the plastic cover at drivers door. I've seen breaks in the wiring loom there before. But definitely worth checking out that connector. At least it gives you another point to test from/to which will narrow it down.
Tailgate wire... Yes, it comes from.the CDL microswitch in the latch. It supplies a ground path for the tailgate motor (through the button in the tailgate too) when the drivers door is unlocked.
That way when the doors are locked, the tailgate switch has no ground, and thus the tailgate won't open and is locked with the rest of the car.
Progress of sorts. Found the connector under the driver's seat, Thank you!
The wiring through the elbow sheath in the door to the male plug is intact. I tested one of the suspect wires in the female plug to the load area and it's broken.
1 is there a second plug over the passenger side? i.e. is the production line split left and right with one station putting in bridge components across the middle?
2 is it worth buying a tone generator and probe for £25?
Chasman wrote:
Progress of sorts. Found the connector under the driver's seat, Thank you!
The wiring through the elbow sheath in the door to the male plug is intact. I tested one of the suspect wires in the female plug to the load area and it's broken.
1 is there a second plug over the passenger side? i.e. is the production line split left and right with one station putting in bridge components across the middle?
2 is it worth buying a tone generator and probe for £25?
Well, that is some progress then!
Unfortunately, there is no other connector between there and the loadspace - it is a single wire from there all the way to the DSP amp. The loom runs across the back of the centre console, under the passenger seat behind the ECU's there, and then down into the sill under the plastic covers, and then along and up past the rear seats, into the loadspace.
Tone generator - might be useful - but the wires will be bundled together with a load of others in the loom - so I don't know what kind of interference it might introduce. I would pop the sill trim off on the L/H/R and have a look at the cables in the loom there and see if there's anything obvious. You should also be able to get the trim off that goes up the side from the floor to expose the wiring there too, which might allow you to check a bit more without having to take the loadspace trims off and the rear seatbelt mounting bolt out to get that last trim off...
It feel like you are definitely on the right track!
Marty
Take 2:
I bought this tone generator: allsun Automotive Short Circuit Tester Finder Cable Tester Wire Tracker Detector Tone Generator EM415PRO https://amzn.eu/d/bTFyJJz
All trim and kick-plates are off but carpet is still down on passenger side. Traces all the way from the load area to the female plug under the driver's seat IF it's UNPLUGGED.
EDITED:
Tone can be detected all the way from the load area to the door on both wires... I assumed all the soaking in Contact Cleaner and cycling if the plug had fixed it.
I vote the car front to back not left to right like JLR So FR is Front Right and FL is Front Left. The crossovers say woofer so I use W in the codes but call the speakers bass.
To eliminate the FR crossover I connected the FLW wires to the currently vacant FRW terminals: Sound from FL bass driver.
To eliminate the FR bass speaker (again) I connected it into the FL door: Sound from FL bass driver.
Left FR bass in FL door because there's no point switching it back when I know both of them work.
Switched FL bass wires back to FL crossover. Tested and still working.
So, I now have GR/BL and BL/GR wires for FR which pass the test tone all the way from the load area to the door and a known working speaker from the FL door.
Fitted and connected FL bass to FR door, reconnected GR/BL and BL/GR wires to the (now) known good FR crossover.
Silence. Nothing. Nada. Null point.
Chasman wrote:
Take 2:
I bought this tone generator: allsun Automotive Short Circuit Tester Finder Cable Tester Wire Tracker Detector Tone Generator EM415PRO https://amzn.eu/d/bTFyJJz
All trim and kick-plates are off but carpet is still down on passenger side. Traces all the way from the load area to the female plug under the driver's seat IF it's UNPLUGGED.
EDITED:
Tone can be detected all the way from the load area to the door on both wires... I assumed all the soaking in Contact Cleaner and cycling if the plug had fixed it.
I vote the car front to back not left to right like JLR So FR is Front Right and FL is Front Left. The crossovers say woofer so I use W in the codes but call the speakers bass.
To eliminate the FR crossover I connected the FLW wires to the currently vacant FRW terminals: Sound from FL bass driver.
To eliminate the FR bass speaker (again) I connected it into the FL door: Sound from FL bass driver.
Left FR bass in FL door because there's no point switching it back when I know both of them work.
Switched FL bass wires back to FL crossover. Tested and still working.
So, I now have GR/BL and BL/GR wires for FR which pass the test tone all the way from the load area to the door and a known working speaker from the FL door.
Fitted and connected FL bass to FR door, reconnected GR/BL and BL/GR wires to the (now) known good FR crossover.
Silence. Nothing. Nada. Null point.
That is an odd one...
Have you tried the continuity test with your multimeter from the loadspace to the connector?
The only other thing I can think of (without it being in front of me to poke and prod at myself) is that when it plugs in there's a high resistance, which stops the tone. Out of interest, have you tried reading from the loadspace connector to the door connector with resistance (on ohms on the multimeter, rather than continuity check). The continuity checker on my multimeter goes up to maybe 200? ohms resistance - so anything over that, if there IS a connection, but it's high resistance, then it won't read anything - but if you click it to say the 2K ohm range, you don't get the continuity beep, but you can see if there's a resistance along the wire.
Might be something else to look into, in case there is a problem in that connector...
Bugger.
Accidentally picked up the Light Green/Black wires.
All sorted.