Hello

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/how-to-safely-have-a-p38-locked-with-battery-disconnected.179857/
From above site.
marty_nz 2015

“The way I disconnect the battery and secure the vehicle - and what I advise others to do on their P38s is to disconnect the battery with the vehicle UNLOCKED,

And then manually close the doors/lock them with the sill locking buttons, and then manually lock the drivers door with the key.”

YES I DID THAT it worked the vehicle was all locked.
A few days later came back used key in door to unlock and went on with the mechanical job. I had to lock and unlock several times with the key in door during the job.

Work finished ….. opened the door, and window, and kept them open while I opened the bonnet and reconnected the battery.

When I have done this in the past there was the sound of the doors locking.
Drivers door still open but no sound this time, car not locked.

Put key in ignition all okay, turned key and motor started so no problems there.

Tried to sync key fob as I have done in the past ….no flashing red light this time …. no sync.
Tried the spare key same no sync.
Their batteries were new 8 months ago and both have been operating perfectly.

I have been using the car for a week now using key in door to lock/unlock.
All doors lock/unlock using the key except the passenger door…. it hasn’t worked electrically since I purchased the car 12 months ago.
The starting and running of the motor is not a problem.
Reset the windows, mirrors can be moved and self dipping function disabled okay.
Suspension all working.

Has anybody got any ideas on how I can get the key fobs to sync so the lock/unlock buttons are operational?

Thanks in advance
Andrew

The flashing red light on the fob when you put the key in the ignition, is caused by the coil around the ignition lock causing the fob to transmit an unlock code. However, the coil is very fragile and often breaks. In which case you need to manually sync the fobs.

With all doors and tailgate closed, put the key in the lock on the drivers door and turn it to lock, hold there and while holding it there, press and hold the lock button on the fob until the red LED flashes faster. Release the button on the fob and turn the key back to centre. Then turn to unlock, hold there, press and hold the unlock button on the fob, etc. Fob should then be synced and you can then do the same for the other one.

Thank you Gilbertd for the quick reply

To be honest I have never been aware of any red light on the fob when inserting the key into the ignition.

I wasn’t very clear when I said :-
“Tried to sync key fob as I have done in the past ….no flashing red light this time …. no sync.”

What I actually tried was exactly what you suggested.
That procedure has never failed to sync the key fobs for me on the two P38s I have owned in the past 4 years.

There has now been a change since my last post.
Late this afternoon I thought I would try the procedure again.

The regularly used key fob when turned in lock and unlock pressing the buttons, gave no flashing red light.
But did lock/unlock manually.

However when I tried the spare key, turned to lock, button pressed no red light and locked manually, but turn to unlock, button pressed and flashing red light!! So that key fob has manual lock and press button unlock!!

It’s different, but I would like both buttons working, don’t know where to look for a solution.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404025564146, he replaces the switches on the circuit board and fully checks them before sending them back. You get a shiny new case too. As you have two keys, then it isn't a problem to do one at a time.

Gilbertd wrote:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404025564146, he replaces the switches on the circuit board and fully checks them before sending them back. You get a shiny new case too. As you have two keys, then it isn't a problem to do one at a time.

+1 for this. I just had a spare key refurbished by him. Before I sent it off the red LED didn't work & it would unlock but not lock the car. Now it's all working correctly. If you aren't getting the LED operating then the fob is faulty.

Thank you to you both for the contact address on Ebay for getting the key fob refurbished.

I read all the information on his listing and went ahead .... Buy now ... paid my money .... got the receipt ..... got the email from Ebay.
That email, according to the seller, was supposed to contain the postal address for me to post my key fob over to UK. Of course it it did contain the address.

So I enter the murky Ebay world where no human being exists to try and contact the seller. (I could not find contact information by looking on the net).

Well you enter the even less helpful, if that is possible, world of AI. This grubby little ** doesn't want me to contact the seller. So I haven't

I canceled the order and now wait for 3 days to get a refund. Or just maybe a message from the seller.

I wonder if the seller is even aware that he maybe loosing business due to Ebay Aggravated Insult.

Don't you have the 'Contact the seller' option? Where are you? I assumed UK. I know there's a setting in eBay for where someone is able to send to overseas (when it is an actual item rather than a service) maybe that has changed recently and he hasn't updated his listing. I know he's done numerous ones for owners in the US and even for one owner in Japan in the past.

RedP38 wrote:

That email, according to the seller, was supposed to contain the postal address for me to post my key fob over to UK. Of course it it did contain the address.

I had a look at the Ebay listing 'contact details' section, the full address isn't shown but there's a phone number and direct email address.

Copied and pasted from the listing contact details section...

Company name
Remote Repair Centre
Seller name
Remote Repair Centre
Address
remoterepairscentre, peterborough, Cambridgeshire, PLEASE ASK, United Kingdom
Phone
+44 7453970059
Email
Rapidremotecentre@outlook.com

I find that Ebay won't allow the exchange of telephone numbers, addresses or email addresses before a sale, after a sale it will at least allow the seller to send an email address to the buyer but not a telephone number, I'm not sure about a location address. After a sale I don't know if it will allow the buyer to send an email address to the seller but I expect it will. Anyway, the seller has included their email address in the contact details section that I pasted above. I have pasted the seller's contact email address and telephone number above, so you could email or phone the seller directly and ask them for the address to send your fob to. If you don't get any reply to that email you could try using Ebay messenger to send the seller your email address and ask them to email you with the address to send your fob to.

I sell LPG pumps through Ebay, Ebay doesn't allow me to see the buyer's email address or phone number, so I'm not able to pass that information on to the courier or to email the buyer the PDF instructions. I send the buyer an Ebay message saying I need to send the instructions, I include my email address and ask the buyer to email me so I can reply to the email and attach the instructions.

Hello
Gilbertd
I live in the state of Queensland Australia
The 'Contact the seller' option was not operational, nothing could be written in the box.
Aggravated Insult gave me stupid information and I couldn't get rid of its comments.

Lpgc
Thanks for all the info and I have sent an email to the "private" address and he may see that during your day time over there, so I will wait for any reply there might be.

My shed contains four registered vehicles :-
1954 Citroen Big 15, owned since 1984 but only fully restored on the road for 12 years.
1974 Citroen Dyane owned on the road for 42 years. It has seen a lot of Australia, 3rd time round the clock.
1998 LR Defender 130 300Tdi with self built camper body owned for 15 years used to make forays out to
enjoy this great island. It took over from the Dyane.
And for the last 4 years I have been a P38 owner. First one was a cheap one, then last year I purchased a better looking car but not so good in other respects.
Gilbertd and others were a great help early on when I was trying to deal with petrol in the oil.
At 76 year old and taking on a P38 my long suffering wife declared me mad. But she still helped me do a brake fluid change today.

Thanks Andrew

Long suffering wives are such a huge blessing. I’m glad you’re getting it sorted.

Gilbertd wrote:

The flashing red light on the fob when you put the key in the ignition, is caused by the coil around the ignition lock causing the fob to transmit an unlock code. However, the coil is very fragile and often breaks. In which case you need to manually sync the fobs.

With all doors and tailgate closed, put the key in the lock on the drivers door and turn it to lock, hold there and while holding it there, press and hold the lock button on the fob until the red LED flashes faster. Release the button on the fob and turn the key back to centre. Then turn to unlock, hold there, press and hold the unlock button on the fob, etc. Fob should then be synced and you can then do the same for the other one.

Hello all, sorry to steal the thread, but recently had similar case with disconnected battery and I'm, looking for help.
I've left the car unlocked for 2 weeks and after that the battery was dead. Charged it, was starting the engine and as I thought there was just a coincidence of uncharged batter had left the car unlocked for another week. Battery dead again. I've understood that the BeCM might not be going to sleep, thus consuming the battery quickly.
Charged the battery again, but as result I've my fob not remotely locking/unlocking.

The issue:
I've followed the above procedure from Gilbert and the fob was doing exactly what stated. Started blinking and then fast blinking.
However, after locking-pressing-fastblinking, center position, unlocking-pressing-fastblinking, the fob is again not able to lock/unlock remotely.
The engine starts without an issue and I'm using the key for lock/unlock, but would be good to have the fob working again.
Any help and ideas, what might be the case?

P.S.
When i put the key in the ignition there is no blinking and I suppose that the before-mentioned coil is dead.

Two things can affect the sync and cause it to not work. If the blue wire on the receiver has been disconnected to make the receiver 'deaf' and reduce the chances of nearby RF causing a flat battery, it may be that it isn't sensitive enough to detect the signal from the fob. In that case, if you have two keys you can use one in the door to do the turning and hold the one you are trying to sync next to the aerial etched into the RH rear window. Second problem is local RF that is affecting the receivers ability to detect the signal from the fob. Doing the above may work or just take the car out into the countryside where there are no radio masts anywhere nearby and try it again.

Hey Gilbertd,
Thanks for the prompt response.
I think the issue might be closer to the first option from the ones you gave.
Im a new owner of the car from some 3 months and my first impression was that the remote is working only when it is very close to the car. Literally next to the doors.
Can you help please on what is this blue wire that can be disconnected and from where it is disconnected, expectedly?
I’ve both the workshop and owners manuals, so even a page to read is much appreciated.
Unfortunately, I’ve got a second key which is in a plastic bag condition. All things separated. I’ve seen above the ebay contact for repair services and will send a picture asking if it is repairable at all, as shipment to UK will be not cheap (I’m from Bulgaria). Hopefully it can be fixed, as it is either this or new from LandRover …..

The receiver is under the rear side panel on the right hand side of the car, the bit that supports the luggage compartment cover. It has a 3 way connector plugged into it and a single blue wire which goes to the antenna etched into the side window. People often unplug the blue wire so the receiver doesn't have an antenna attached to it so you need to be very close for it to receive the signal from the fob. In your case it will be worse as I assume the car is LHD, so the signal from the fob is being blocked by the rest of the car. On a RHD the signal only has to travel a couple of metres down the side of the car, in your case it has to travel further and through the car.

This is where it lives

Thanks a lot for all the details. Will check that tomorrow. Hopefully it is the issue.

Hello again,
just checked and the blue cable was connected to that module.
In the same space under the middle of the side window there is a bigger module with few coaxial cables and one of them was disconnected (the closest to the front of the car), but without any change - no sync again.
Nevertheless, the said coaxial cable looks in a very bad condition in its connector, so I'll rework it after a bit and see if there is any change.
I've read somewhere that the amplified signal from the fob is transmitted to the BeCM through a coaxial cable so this might be the case, though it might be misinformation, as I don't remember the source to be trustworthy.

Update:
Had fixed the coaxial cable and no change in anything - radio, remote control (fob). None.

The battery of the fob have been changed before a month, so I suspect it is powerful enough.
Any ideas if there is a way to fix the passive coil on the ignition so the synchronization is automatic?

The other box under there is the amplifier for the radio aerial and nothing to do with the fob. Unless your car is a base model, you will have aerials for the radio in both side windows. One side is FM only while the other side is FM/AM (but I don't remember which side is which).

The signal from the fob is received by the receiver and the data stream travels along the Orange/Red wire in the 3 way connector at the receiver to the BeCM at pin 6 of C326. The fact that it was working but only when very close to the car, suggests that either the fob isn't sending a very strong signal, pretty unlikely with new batteries in it (it takes 2 CR2025 batteries), or the receiver isn't receiving it very well. Do you have tint film on the rear windows as that could be blocking the signal to the receiver? I suppose you could try attaching a longer piece of wire to the terminal on the receiver where the blue wire is connected and running that across to the other side of the car. That way the distance the signal has to travel will be less.

Hey Gilbertd,
as always, thank you for the prompt reply.
No, I don't have any tints over the windows.
I'll try your suggestion with the wire and meanwhile will see to turn back to life the second fob, once to have a spare and second to be sure that the current fob is not .... defective somehow (which I doubt as I don't see what could be defective).

Hello again,
strange things happen.
Apparently my broken fob (not the one I'm using from purchase of the car) is probably not from this car, as the physical key is different, as I've found when compared with the other one.
I went to a key maker to make a new one, only key no fob, and strangely enough the car started with the key only. The fob I'm using was outside of the car.
They said that somehow my immobilizer is in "non-working condition", which I cannot grasp what it means.
Is it non-working because the car was locked with a key and not the fob, though the manual says the BeCM immobilizes the engine in both ways?
Is it non-working because the car "lost" the fob when it was in an unlocked state and thus not immobilizing the engine without the fob lock, which again contradicts the written in the manual?
Is it non-working because someone did something to the BeCM during the long life of this specific car, which I was thinking is not possible to remove, the immobilization I mean? (oh, how I love second hand cars and the mysteries unfolding from the previous owners accomplishments)

Questions, questions, questions.

Apparently, I'm going to gift myself a Christmas present with one Nanocom Evolution for the P38, so I can understand what is happening with the car and potentially find/understand other "interventions". It would be useful once I start returning the car to air suspension as it was spring converted just before me buying it.

Despite that, any ideas on ALL these questions are more than welcome.

Cheers!

If the car is locked with the key in the door, that turns on the immobiliser and alarm but they are turned off if it is then unlocked with either the key or the fob. However, if it was locked with the fob it MUST be unlocked with the fob, unlocking with the key unlocks the door but doesn't turn off the alarm and immobiliser, you then need to input the EKA to turn them off.

It isn't possible to turn off the immobiliser even though many people think you can. When you get your Nanocom and start looking through the BeCM settings, you will find one marked Immobiliser which will be Enable or Disabled. That doesn't turn off the immobiliser, it turns off passive immobilisation. Passive immobilisation turns the immobiliser back on if you unlock the car (with key or fob) but then don't start the car within 30 seconds. If it is Enabled, the coil around the ignition switch causes the fob to send the Unlock code to turn off the immobiliser. If the coil or fob isn't working, when you try to start the car, the message centre will come up with Engine Immobilised, Press Remote or Enter Code. If it is Disabled, it doesn't matter how long you leave it between unlocking the car and trying to start it as the immobiliser will have been turned off when you unlocked the car and will stay off. This is slightly different to the automatic locking where if you unlock the car but don't open the door, it will relock (and set the immobiliser again) if you don't open a door. This is to prevent you accidentally unlocking the car, usually with the fob in your pocket, and leaving it unlocked.