I have had very good luck with the EAS on all of the P-38s I have owned, so I guess I was due for this one!

Been having a hard time getting the eas calibrated on the Borrego. I have blocks, and did a calibration last month.
After a few minor tweaks, I got it spot on! Perfect at all 4 corners.Then, a week later after just being parked in the shed, it wasn't anymore.
Now the left side comes radically up, and Rt side goes down in about the same proportion.
I just calibrated again, with blocks.Here is what I get after calibration:
Extended:
FL Target: 130 FL Actual 146
FR Target 134 FR Actual 125
RL Target 126 RL Actual 145
RR Target 123 RR Actual 102

Standard:
FL Target 107 FL Actual 119
FR Target 109 FR Actual 97
RL Target 107 RL Actual 123
RR Target 104 RR Actual 87

Highway:
FL Target 89 FL Actual 96
FR Target 91 FR Actual 79
RL Target 96 RL Actual 94
RR Target 92 RR Actual 70

These numbers are consistent +/- a couple of points when input into 3 different EAS ECUs
All 3 ECUs exhibit the same behaviour when the observed values for calibration are saved into them.
I have confirmed all 4 sensors are in good shape and plugs are clean.
I have cleaned and re tightened the ground points related to EAS on LF fender.
I have cleaned the plug and mating sockets of all 3 EAS controllers
I have 4 new Dunlop bags.
I have replaced, then did a left right swap of the rear sensors. No difference
The plug in the RH kick panel is clean (Hmm, Better go check the left side...)

As a new bonus feature, it now also levels itself after shutting it off and closing the door.....
It goes straight to access height!
Over the years, I have had various P-38s occasionally but rarely come up with one side MUCH higher after they had sat for several months and EAS had leaked down. Cycling the EAS up and down, or driving them always cleared things up.

SOLVED: It was a bad driver pack. It was not operating the RR valve even though the EAS ECU was sending the 12v signal, so basically the 3 other corners were dragging it along. Found it by operating the valves with Nano and listening carefully. RR would operate about 1% of the time when commanded to open.
Replaced with one from the parts cupboard, and it is now riding precisely where it is programmed to.
Very strange set of symptoms for a pretty simple problem. I now have a solid EAS!
Now for the Air Con slow leak......

The RR not getting air will generally cause the FL to rise.

For the "bad driver pack", given that it works 1% of the time, the internals are probably ok. The problem is likely to either be the socket contacts in the connector to the solenoids, or a bad solder joint on the wires where they enter the potting compound. The contacts are easy to sort by gently squeezing them so they make better contact. The solder joints are pretty much impossible to resolve.

Dropping to access after switch off, could be the self levelling going wrong due to the driver pack problem, but can also be powering off the ECU whilst it's in the middle of a self-levelling routing. Always let the ECU sleep before unplugging or powering off.

Thanks for the feedback.
I won't bin the "bad" controller until I have done the pin re tensioning procedure on the plugs and re testing it.
It was much easier and quicker to swap in a known good part to confirm that I was on the right track.
As it was late afternoon, the shed was also getting hot and the last thing I felt like doing was
Chasing down an intermittent electrical issue!
As for the dropping to access, I was watching the nano during the short time it stays connected after ignition switch off
and it showed the numbers rapidly dropping to match the access height settings.
If the RR had no real pressure in it, it would appear to be heading to access when it was just matching the lowest corner, as it is supposed to.......