Hi All,
Just replaced the intermediate steering shaft with positive results, but there is still play in the steering box, which manifests itself as a clicking sound when passing over bumps.
Has anyone actually adjusted the box successfully?
I did it once on a previous P38 without much improvement.
Yes, done mine as it had a bit of play at the straight ahead point. You need to be very gentle with it, I put a blob of white paint on the edge of the adjuster so I could see how much I'd moved it by. 1/8th of a turn at a time and if you tighten it too much, it gives an 'interesting' feel to the steering. When tightening the locknut, use a ring spanner so you can hold the adjuster in one place.
Not done it on a p38, but I did it once on a classic I had. I remember jacking both front wheels off the ground. I then screwed the adjuster in bit by bit to eliminate the backlash. Not sure what Rave says about the p38.
Rave is silent on the matter!
Yes, RAVE doesn't even mention it. I assume that a main dealer, who RAVE is aimed at after all, would just fit a new steering box. If you have an assistant to rock the steering wheel from side to side to show any play, then you will be able to see if it is in the box or the joints on the lower column.
I get the same occasional 'click' in the steering when going over bumps. I have tried tightening the steering box a bit, but think it could do with a bit more.... I haven't done the intermediate shaft yet, but it's on the list to do.
I've also heard that the splines in the steering column itself can wear (on the bit that telescopes outwards) and that can also cause excessive play in the steering. I have a spare steering column kicking about from a vehicle that was stripped for parts, so I was planning on swapping it out at some point just for the hell of it to see if it made a difference...
Gilbertd wrote:
Yes, done mine as it had a bit of play at the straight ahead point. You need to be very gentle with it, I put a blob of white paint on the edge of the adjuster so I could see how much I'd moved it by. 1/8th of a turn at a time and if you tighten it too much, it gives an 'interesting' feel to the steering. When tightening the locknut, use a ring spanner so you can hold the adjuster in one place.
Did mine as per this. Got it to where it just stopped self-centering easily and backed off a fraction. That was nearly two years ago and still all good.
Brilliant, I'll have ago.
Following from the other thread, I want to inspect the steering box.
Do I view it from above/below? If so, what am I looking at? What are the steps?
I am aware of aligning the 'two' lines together, but no idea where to begin/what to undo.
Once you have both front wheels pointing in the right direction, set it so it is pointing straight ahead. Then look at the two markers on the steering box body and collar on the input shaft. You might find looking from above and using a mirror will help.
If they line up with the wheels pointing straight ahead, that is it, you don't need to do any more at the steering box. It the steering box is straight but he steering wheel isn't, then take the steering wheel off and move it on the splines. Each spline will move it by 5 degrees so if it needs moving less than that, you adjust it at the drag link. If the steering box marks don't line up showing it isn't central, that also needs doing at the drag link. This is a similar adjuster to that on the tie rod but on the drag link but on the front rod between the steering box output lever and LH front hub. See below only the pic shows a LHD one so it is on the opposite side of the car.
