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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
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Joined: Jul 12 2016
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Ordering a wet vac today, Amazon Prime should get it to me tomorrow.

I'll also see about commandeering the other half's hair dryer :P

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The foam under the carpet is very dense - on both my P38's I cut it out as far up the transmission tunnel as I could, and hung it up to dry out for weeks to get it properly dry. In a warm dry place it might just take a few days.

In my opinion, if its properly saturated, that's the only way you'll get it dried out fully. Once its dry, you can lift the carpet and slide it back in.

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Joined: Jul 12 2016
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I think I'll look at taking the carpet out a little later in the year, once I'm certain that I've fixed the leak.

I certainly wouldn't want to go to all the effort of pulling it out, drying it and putting it back just find it still gets wet the next time it rains.

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I bet your windows are steaming up nicely today. All that rain yesterday (my daughter has a fishpond in her garden that was empty when she went to work and full when she got home) and now blue skies and sunshine, I suggest you leave some windows open. If you do, make sure you lock it with the key and not the fob or the alarm will be constantly going off from the air movement being detected by the ultrasonics.

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Ultrasonics will only be activated if superlocked, and then only if the windows are also closed :)

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You're absolutely correct. I've just looked at the owners handbook and confirmed although I had always assumed the ultrasonics were enabled whenever the doors were locked and not only when superlocked. I always superlock mine out of habit but I know most don't in case it fails (we confirmed at the last summer camp that superlocking doesn't work on my drivers door anyway, only the other 3).

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I've disconnected the superlocking in three of my four doors so far - I started superlocking not long ago after replacing my siren, but knew it wouldn't be long before one got stuck, and it did a week ago or so (before neutering the superlock function in that door). Thankfully after a few lock/unlocks it let go.

Anyway, I digress...

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Joined: Mar 12 2016
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Gilbertd wrote:

I bet your windows are steaming up nicely today.

A good moment to test the electric screenheater☺

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Joined: Jan 06 2016
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Ferryman wrote:

Gilbertd wrote:

I bet your windows are steaming up nicely today.

A good moment to test the electric screenheater☺


Assuming the water hasn't got to the BECM :)

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Joined: Mar 12 2016
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Orangebean wrote:

Assuming the water hasn't got to the BECM :)

You righthookers are in a better position then, before the level reaches BECM your feet will get wet!

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
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I think you're looking at trouble either way! I don't think the P38 was ever designed to float....

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Joined: Jan 06 2016
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I can remember wading some ford or something in my old S3 Military Lightweight and the water coming over the top of my wellies!
Just had to open the door to let the water out afterwards. They were simpler times...

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What should you do if your P38 floods?
Fire the Chauffeur of course!

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Morat wrote:

What should you do if your P38 floods?


Ask Maam if she needs to refresh her Tena Lady pants?

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Just been out on my lunchbreak to pick up some sealant from Halfords.

No steaming of the windows and all the electrics appear to work :)

I never have any issues with wading either - I've had muddy water well up the sides of the doors before with no problems. And no, these cars don't appear to float :P

Which section of RAVE has the instructions for removing the carpet? Wanted to see just how much of the interior had to come out to get to it all, besides the obvious seats.

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RAVE doesn't appear to tell you how to get the carpet out. OB is your man, he replaced his at last years summer camp. I do recall there was rather a lot of bits strewn around the car though.

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Ah, I'm not going mad then. I had a pretty thorough look through and couldn't see it.

I imagine the entire centre console has to come out to get the carpet out from under it - assuming the carpet is one piece front to back and left to right.

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It is in two bits - front and rear. The divide is alone the back of the front seats. So with front seats and centre console out, you could remove the front half entirely.

I'm relatively certain that's the divide point at least!

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Gilbertd wrote:

RAVE doesn't appear to tell you how to get the carpet out. OB is your man, he replaced his at last years summer camp. I do recall there was rather a lot of bits strewn around the car though.


Did the easy bit at Summer Camp- seat swaps and rear carpet on the HSE. Didn't do the front.
Had both carpets out of the VSE recently though. As Sloth says the front carpet comes out after removing seats (easy- 4 torx, some trim panels and unplug a few cables), step trims, kick panels (may not need to but mine were out anyway) and the centre console. It's the console that is a bit fiddly as there are a few components to take out to get to the main fixings.

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Joined: Dec 29 2015
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I took mine out when I was doing the gas - I had the boot carpet out and it was wet underneath so I took it all out to get it dry and give it a clean.

You need all the seats out, the centre console out and I think the plastic bit under the dash centre out. There are some cable ties at the back behind the heaterbox that you can just reach that stops the very front end from dropping down - it "stitches" the front together.