Morning all.
I have the DSP system in my car and it all works fine apart from when turning it on it emits a crackling sound for a second or so after this it's fine. It also does the same when the sat nav woman speaks. Any ideas?
Rob.
Uh oh!
So it crackles, from all speakers, just when you turn it on, then plays from radio/ cd OK, but crackles all the time the nav voice is playing back?
All I can suggest is going through all system connections looking for damp/ corrosion and popping the DSP amp itself out to see if there's water ingress.
Marty's said that he'd like to get his hands on a working DSP amp with nav etc to see how to engineer his "amps on a board" solution to fully integrate. Maybe yours would be that guinea pig, while it's still clinging to life?
Otherwise...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Harman-Kardon-Amplifier-Amp-XQK000110-/192172593166?
Ouch, 400 quid for something that may go the same way as the one you've got in a few weeks time.
How Hard Can It Be to make up an alternative amp, anyway?
The DSP part is easy, the amp part is easy, you'd just need to work out what the control head is saying to the DSP.
gordonjcp wrote:
How Hard Can It Be to make up an alternative amp, anyway?
The DSP part is easy, the amp part is easy, you'd just need to work out what the control head is saying to the DSP.
It looks like, globally, no-one has managed to fix them when they go pop (apart from rumours that there "used to be a guy in Europe") or market an alternative Plug & Play substitute that fully replicates the performance and functionality of the original. Marty's pretty close with his multi amped board,
http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=76
but still hasn't solved the problem of integrating nav into it. The XQK00010 (only fitted to Westminsters and late VSEs is even more complex as it has to handle the centre dash speaker as well.
Faced with the time and trouble to develop a solution, most people would bin the entire system and go aftermarket. It's only the originality buffs that care.
Thanks for the advise. Was going to have a look today but my local wilco had sold out of contact cleaner so been doing other stuff instead. If I get time during the week I will pull the amp out and have a look for any water damage and clean up connectors etc.
Cheers.
Rob.
Hi all.
Pulled the amp out today and it all looks fine no water ingress all contacts look fine but I cleaned them all with contact cleaner. Put it all back together and it still crackles as before. I did notice it's worse when the ignition is turned on. I was wondering if it's the sat nav starting up. If I just turn the radio on with out the ignition all I get is a little hiss and then it's away. I cranked the volume up and it sounds bloody awesome. I really hope it's not on the way out.
Rob.
Did you clean C1378- white connector behind LH footwell trim panel and C1570- white connector behind RH footwell trim panel?
Some DSP/ Nav stuff goes through those.
Pulling the plug to the nav computer (usual powerdown rules apply!) would remove any suspicion that it may be contributing.
No I didn't do the footwell connectors. Will have a look at them during the week. I can't tomorrow as we are at a car show. I will also pull the lead from the nav computer and see if that makes any difference. I would be happy to let Marty have a look at the amp if that will help sort a replacement as long as I get it back working but that would have to a bit later in the year when the car club show season finishes.
Rob.
Hi all.
I have pulled the footwell plugs both sides and cleaned them with contact cleaner. Both sides were pretty clean anyhow. I have noticed the the crackling comes from the speakers in the rear doors and boot. No crackling from the front. Once it's up and running it sounds superb with no more problems. Any more ideas? I will probably just live with it and see how things go.
Rob.
Mine has DSP with nav and I occasionally get a sort of rustling/crackling noise coming from somewhere in the rear. It starts when I start the car but disappears after a few seconds although it can sometimes persist for a few minutes.
Lately I've been starting to think it's somehow related to the braking system. I can reliably get it to stop by pressing the brake pedal. If I release the brake pedal it comes back. I've noticed that it goes away completely when the pump for the brakes stops doing its thing and the system is properly up to pressure.
I have absolutely no idea if/how/why the radio system and the brake system would be linked they sure seem to be. A shared earth point maybe?
Back in the day (whenever the day was), crackling on the radio that changed on brake application was thought to be a build up of static that was discharged (or was it charged?) when brakes were used. Cars sprouted dangly wicks on the back to discharge static- anyone remember them?
Mind you, that was back in the 70's- a strange era.
Not relevant in any way to the problem above I don't think- just a curiousity
They share an ignition switched supply. Fuse 17 powers the brake lights, the HEVAC display and EAS display. Although the diagrams don't show it as having anything to do with the radio, I found that with an intermittent connection my radio would go off as well as everything else on that supply. It comes off the only connector on the back of the BeCM (accessed from the rear footwell) and is on a white wire at one corner of the connector. You'll see which one it is, it's the one that is starting to look burnt. If the HEVAC display dims slightly when you put your foot on the brake pedal, that connection is getting warm.
I always thought the dangly wicks were to prevent a build up of static to stop travel sickness. Doubt they worked for either purpose......