hi tiv68 here
I'm new to this forum, but have been helped before by Gilbertd on another one with my lpg (which is now not working again but that for another day).
I was on the other forum for help with my obd connection and Gilbertd gave me links to rave (which I now have) for wiring diagrams.
I have purchased a nanacom for my p38 1998 4.0l gems. it will connect to eas and air bags but nothing else just says connection error to ecu..
i was told that obd connector could be corroded looked and wire/connector 7 was corroded to the point it came away from socket, so i purchased a new wired socket and soldered it in place, but when i stripped wire 7 back it was black on the copper , i soldered it any way but it still wont connect,
my question is can put a jump wire in from 7 on obd socket to becm. on wiring diagrams i can find on rave it says it goes to pin 8 on becm and to brake abs i think, (i could be totally wrong). where is pin 8 on becm as there are many plugs with more than 8 wires i know they are all different colours but i need help.
spanners and welding no problem but wires!!!!!!! and i don't want to damage anything connecting it wrong.
any help would be greatfuly received.
regards Steve
Hi Steve,
You can connect it before the BECM, I would connect it in the RHD footwell behind the kick panel.
There are a couple of connectors there that are known in themselves for corrosion problems, but the diagnostic wires come through those connectors so should give you a fairly easy connection to the system.
Pin 7 is the Pink/Red wire and connects at the kick panel connectors on pin 15.
Pin 15 is a Light Green/Red wire (also used for ABS, HEVAC and BECM communications) and connects at the kick panel connectors on pin 16.
There is also a couple of splices in the wiring loom up under the dash for those wires that split them off from the socket to the BECM, HEVAC and ABS/Engine ECU's. In theory connecting at the kick panel should back feed through the splice to BECM and HEVAC, so if they still don't connect then it could be a problem at the splices aswell - but definitely worth a try first as the kick panel connectors are easy to get to!
Hope that helps,
Marty
Just remember (on mine anyway) the ignition switch needs to be in different positions for successful connections, e.g., engine running for 'engine and EAS" position 2 for BECM, etc.
Very good point, I've also noticed that. With the engine running only some connect, others need the ignition on but engine not running. That's my only complaint with the Nanocom, there isn't really any actual step by step instructions with it.
For best connections to the BECM, do it with the ignition OFF - you should get 'Diagnostics Mode' up on the dash.
Pretty much everything else will talk with the ignition in Position II - but the BECM whilst it might normally talk in Pos II will ignore diagnostic requests if the engine is running.
The bit that gets confusing for me is that some ECU's clear fault codes straight away, whereas others actually clear them when the ignition is cycled.. same with adaptive values between GEMS/Thor - I'm sure the GEMS one does it on next power up - whereas Thor will do it straight away - even with the engine running...
BBS make a nice piece of kit overall, but I agree - the instructions sometimes could do with a bit of clarification - and on some of the values, an 'expected value/range' would be useful to know where the units aren't something standard aswell!
hi everyone
thanks for all the information.
I looked for the connector last night and found it. its so easy when you know where to look and what to look for. I am working away at the moment so wont get chance to play until weekend. it has been very damp and is going green in places, what is the best way to clean the connectors?
also while I was looking I saw the dreaded antifreeze trail so the O-rings must of gone too but will post in oily bits about that.
many thanks again
cheers Steve
hi , just a quick one to thank everyone for there help. got home from working away and found the red and pink wire under dripping heater O-rings was all corroded, now cleaned and soldered and obd connection works fine thanks for the info Marty. now to go and have a look at my door handle.
cheers steve