Hi. Does anyone have the details on relocating the relay with pictures. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thank you.
Ray
I take it one of your fan relays has burnt the board, personally I think it’s easier to buy another fuse box, to split the boards, adapt, resolder the boards back together takes many hours, ok the fus boxes aren’t cheap, but it will give you many years without having to worry.
There was a guide with pictures on RR.net (http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/225890-new-fuse-box-external-relocation-rl7-relay.html) but it's fallen foul of the new photobucket rules so all the pictures have disappeared. Personally I'm with Chris here, replace the fusebox and treat it to some new relays. OK, so it's around 150 notes to do the lot but RL7 carries no more current that RL6 and nobody seems to worry about that one. Come to that, the ABS pump and EAS pump relays carry as much if not more current and again, nobody worries about them too. I think the relocation idea is more from the American, treat the symptom rather than the cause mentality, if the relay and it's contact with the board are good, it won't get hot.
I'd go with replacing the fuse box as well. Be sure to get the correct one for your VIN/ vehicle type as they're not interchangeable.
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=fuse+box+p38&x=0&y=0
Popular opinion has it that blocked plenum filters contribute to RL6 and 7 overheating due to extra current drain from the blower fans having to work harder to pull air through. My feeling is that it's just down to corrosion in the fuse box leading to high resistance connectors, but anyway, replace plenum filters just to be on the safe side.
I'm with the others on just replacing the fuse box. It is a lot easier in the long run!
Also worth checking the big 2 way connector in the RHF footwell, behind the kick panel.
There are connectors in there which are infamous for going green and foreboding and causing random.electrical issues. That somewhat aside, theres a 2 way connector there (on my P38, it was brown) which has the main power feeds from the fuse box that go to the blower motors.
Ok mine the connector was a bit corroded and also the wires themselves weren't looking the best. I cut the connector out and crimped the wires together with an inline joiner. Having a bad/corroded connection there won't help the relays either, as it's causing a higher resistance, and hence more current being drawn.
Maybe a bit off topic - I was once called out to a Rangerover specialist who had an LPG converted P38 that wouldn't run on petrol but would run on gas. Problem was the petrol pump wasn't running but the petrol pump was good and the pump relay was good. I found the problem to be that the petrol ECU wasn't sending power (or earth - I seem to remember the petrol ECU supplies the earth, constant live) to the petrol pump relay. Fixed it by running a fused line from petrol injector positive to the petrol pump relay and an earth to the relay, the alternative might have been to fit a different petrol ECU.
Off subject story - Years ago me and my dad drove a lot of miles to collect a Jeep I'd bought on Ebay. When we got there the owner said 'Sorry but you've had a wasted journey, it won't run now'. Seems he must have been offered a higher price because I quickly found he'd removed the petrol pump relay and on swapping another relay into the pump position it fired straight up, the guy had to sell it to us, told him what we thought of him and we came away with the Jeep.
Had the same problem on mine, although it was intermittent to start with. When I checked at the ECU it was sending the earth but it wasn't getting to the relay. Fairly common failure in the fusebox it seems and it can either be repaired or replaced. As I'd had mine to bits and resoldered a lot of connections when I first got the car, I just gave it a new fusebox. As a temporary measure I did just the same as you did.
I didn't realise it was a common problem.. doesn't say much for the specialist who called me in lol.