.

At least you had the kit at home, a valve block and compressor rebuild is always first on the list for any p38 I buy.
Just take your time, don’t put any lube on the diaphragm, it goes in dry.
Take a 1/16th off each pipe end and chamfer if you have an old pencil sharpener, if a new one be very gentle.

Same problem here, the main difference being I'm 950 miles from home. Drove down to the south of France on Friday night/Saturday towing a huge box trailer. Got here without any problems other that it being a bit slow due to headwinds and a 9 foot tall, 6 feet wide airbrake hanging off the back and started to unhitch the trailer. Because the ground isn't flat, needed to put the suspension on high and while it did it, it took a very long time which isn't normal. Parked the car and thought no more about it until Sunday morning when it had dropped very low and wouldn't raise up. Left it running with the doors open for a good 20 minutes closed the doors and nothing, still sitting on the floor. No faults and the Nano showed that everything was doing as it should but it seemed the tank was empty and wasn't filling. Checked and found all the air coming out of the exhaust pointing to a split diaphragm.

Fortunately my mate had a spare valve block. When he bought his car the EAS had been fitted with a manual inflation kit and the valve block was doing nothing. He'd rebuilt the valve block and compressor but when I came down a while ago to re-instate the EAS it didn't work so we fitted a spare that I'd bought down with me just in case (pinched off the SE). At the time we'd blamed the driver pack so the valve block had been bunged in his shed. Pulled mine out, swapped the driver packs over and fitted his block with my driver pack. Still nothing even though the pump was doing it's job and there seemed to be air there. Then noticed something odd. Although the Nano showed rear valves open, there was nothing in the rear springs, not only that but when the car was turned off and it tried to level, the tick, tick, tick from the valve block caused the front to rise slightly. Huh? It shouldn't do that??

Came to the conclusion that his valve block had been apart in the past and someone had got the solenoids mixed up so what it thought it was doing and what it was really doing were two completely different things. Which would explain resorting to manual fill valves. So we took the block out again, Swapped driver packs over again, took the end bit where the diaphragm lives off and removed the split diaphragm, did the same with his block and fitted the new diaphragm from his block into mine. So I've got my driver pack and my valve block but with a diaphragm without a split. Valve blocks have been in and out so many times now, I think it would jump out on it's own if asked! Not fun in 28 degree heat though.

Fortunate that he had the valve block.otherwise I think it would have been a bit of creative RTV work to seal it enough to get me home. I'm bringing his old block back and will try to work out which solenoid goes where so it becomes a known good worker. All good fun, just got his heater O rings to sort now (not that a heater is actually needed here and probably won't be for another 5 months or so)......

I do wonder if simply blocking off the exhaust would be sufficient to get it to fill the tank and rise, maybe by wrapping a bit of latex glove around the threads and screwing it in.

I must admit I did consider that. Looking at the diagram in RAVE it seems that the leaking diaphragm would only prevent the reservoir from being filled, once filled the NRVs would keep the air in there. Fortunately I was able to repair it properly but had that not been an option, then serious creative engineering (aka bodgery) would have taken place.

Having got home in the early hours of this morning, I unloaded my car today and couldn't resist checking the valve block I bought back. Suspicions were correct, the solenoids had been put on in the wrong places. My mate had been meticulous and had marked them before taking them off so they went back in the same place as they came off but it appears someone else had been in there before he took it apart and when it didn't work they probably fitted the manual inflation kit.

But, there's getting something wrong and really screwing it up in a big way. How about?
Exhaust solenoid fitted where the front left should be.
Inlet where the Exhaust should be
Front right where the Inlet should be
Front left where the Rear left should be
Rear left where the Front right should be
However, the Rear right was in the correct place as was the Diaphragm valve but that one is different to the others it will only fit in one place anyway.

Some people just shouldn't be allowed to touch technical things......

How the hell could they get so many wrong, must of pulled them off and then thought oh s#*t , when it came to reassembly, lol.
Gotta love the idiots out there ,,

Even I put them back in the right order. Labelling is the best option of course but even just looking at the wires is enough to get them back in properly.