.

Ideally you need a copy of Code of Practice 11 which is what the examiner will inspect it against. TT will no doubt supply you with instructions that will cover most things but CoP 11 is only available from UKLPG/LPGA (or whatever they are calling themselves at the moment). You have PM.

Same as on petrol although you may want to close the gaps up slightly. I use the GEMS recommended NGK BPR6ES but close them down to 25 thou. Although others have said they've noticed a difference in running, I haven't but it makes them last longer as the erosion has to be more advanced before the gap is too big for the spark. Change them every 10-15,000 miles.

Redraptor141 wrote:

I still need to run the car to work as I do the work so I figured I would buy a second hand top intake off eBay (as they are only £50 ish) and do the work off the car and then have a Non-LPG spare if I ever sell it and want to put it back to standard.

I'm guessing this means you have a Thor as its a 99 model? - if so you want to be aware that the best postion for the nozzles is in the lower half of the manifold, Buying a top section so you can operate on it isn't a bad idea (as the ideal path requires to make some holes between the tracts so you can run the hoses down through them to the lower section). From what i was told by Simon when doing mine (and becomes obvious once you have it apart) the tracts up the top cross sides so piping them up and wiring the right injectors to the matching petrol injector becomes much more of a challenge than it needs to be otherwise, as well as having the injectors too far back up the tract away from the petrol ones.

Mine (a Disco 2) did have lpg on it at some point before i had it, which the only bits left of were the holes in the upper manifold, the hose/cable run under the car and nothing else. Those holes were in the upper tracts. I got a second hand manifold so it could be sorted out beforehand as it seemed to make sense to do so.

The nozzles want to be as close as possible to the petrol injectors so in the lower manifold as Brian says. Have a look at post 3 here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/171-lpg-install-first-time for a picture of the enlarged holes he is talking about.

I dreamed up the idea of the plenum mod to get around the manifold nozzle (spud) placement and pipe length compromises that most P38 installs have.

If you think my shoes lucky scruffy in that pic (inlet plenum on link above) you'd definitely think I lucky scruffy bent over engine bays with my outlet plenum on show... not that I'd want a bloke to look at my arse lol.

May be interested to know that I sell DIY kits with tech support, calibration and 'sign off' included. Really not bothered if you buy from me or a supplier, more than busy enough as it is without getting involved with DIY kits etc tbh... But if you have qualms about tech support (TT wouldn't advise the plenum mod), calibration, sign off - and there may be good reason to have qualms in more than one of those areas - taking my route is a good bet.

Cheers for the offer LPGC, wish I knew before I bought off TT. I’d have rather bought off a forum member.

Got my kit today, going to do the rear end this weekend and get the front end engine components mounted up I think then attack the injectors over the long weekend next weekend.

Is there any harm in doing 90% of the wiring this weekend then securing it all up out of the way until next weekend?

I’d like to get the whole system fitted minus the injector assembly this weekend. Then spend the whole of the next weekend doing a good job on the intake side. My second hand one is in the post and I’m going to stick it through the vapour blaster at work......... could always polish it to a gloss finish afterwards....

A weird amaturish question but when fitting the tank, one what is the best sealant to use iaw the code 11? Are the rubber seals provided with the kit sufficient to adhere to the code? Or does the vent tube require additional sealant around the outer diameter where it exits the floor?

And when fitting the filler line and main fuel line is it the done thing to have them enter the tank area through one half of the vent tube or should I have one line through each half? Code 11 doesn’t seem to give any advice in this regard. Just thinking of chaffing lines around the plastic vent tube.

Finally would you guys suggest any, “while your in there” jobs if I’m going to have the intake off.

Got to change the rocker cover gaskets while I’m there and I know to change the lower and upper intake gaskets. Anything else you guys suggest?

Cheers, Billy

Also best place for the filler neck? Heard in the middle of the rear bumper as you can then fill up from both sides?

If it’s like mine, if I unplug the lpg ecu the car stops, so you’d have to be pretty much at ready to go stage.
I’ve seen the filler under flap next to petrol filler before, if you position at rear, watch tow ball if fitted doesn’t foul with the filling of it.

This is my filler and I've not had a problem filling with either type of filler gun in the UK or the various different ones in Europe. That is with or without a trailer hitched up too.

My filler is about 8 inches to the right of the tow hitch. It's the same side as the petrol filler without being impossible to fill from the left.
At the same time, you can still get to it if you've got stuff on the hitch, like a bike rack.

on the hose question depends what hose your using, but you won't get 2 8mm faro hoses in the same piece of vent hose. You might get two copper ones in the same piece, but I'd personally put one in each as you will find it easier when it gets to connecting it up afterwards (this assumes you have a single hole tank, may be easier with a 4 hole, though suspect you will have a single hose one). And yes you want to seal the top hats to the floor somehow, I've used Tiger seal previously.

The centre fill off the towbar definitely the way to go - I've had 4 cars on LPG now, and the two I've converted myself have both had towbar mounts after having experienced the rear wing type previously. Its far easier to fill from either side as long as you get close enough to the pump to reach. Worst you might find is you have to hold the hose to stop the recoil on the pump pulling it back and turning the filler gun on some forecourts.

Another neat touch from Simon was installing the filler with the lugs vertical so the nozzle is parallel to the bumper when filling. This reduces the strain on the hose and makes it easier to fill from either side.

Re the tow ball, it depends which type you have, mine hasn’t got a swan neck type, I ended up taking the tow ball off after fighting with filling the gas, and taking my shins out a few times, certain pumps were ok, some where a pain, where I live, the only lpg supplier nozzle was a pain in the proverbials..

I have run Faro through one side of a separated tank vent but usually it's best to run the fill and engine pipes through different halves of the split (not all brand vent pipes have the split/separator but GZWM usually do). TT only supply GZWM tanks these days which have the hole for vent tube almost central in the tank bottom plate. Whether the vent tube is central or offset in the bottom plate of the tank can dictate what angle you fit a split/separator in the vent tube because some angles could otherwise mean fitting either the fill pipe (Faro with 8mm straight end) and/or pipe to engine bay (either another straight Faro connector or M10/M12 threaded Faro end) with a bit of a kink. Angle of around 2 O'Clock should work well with your GZWM tank if you run the outlet pipe straight to the outlet fitting (without a loop of pipe in the middle of the tank void) or closer to 12 O'Clock if you put a loop in. You shouldn't need a loop in a 270 height GZWM tank but putting a loop in can help prevent a kink in case you're using an M10/M12 threaded Faro end on the outlet and tighten the tank end after running the pipe through to the engine bay (shorter length without a loop can otherwise kink as you tighten Faro connector as Faro twists towards the end of tightening the Faro connector pipe nut). Other tips... Put the valve in the tank after you've fitted the tank, remove the valve solenoid coil and post and fit the level sender before fitting the valve, leave the valve rather loose on it's 6 bolts until you've fitted the engine feed pipe to the valve outlet.

Finished the modification to the inlet manifold today and gave it a trip through the sandblaster at work, then borrowed some of the ceramic epoxy high temp paint the guys use in the bay. They even loaded it into a aerosol for me before I came home.

Then cleaned up the plenum with some sandpaper and emery cloth. Will look good when it’s finish! Better than the mouldy one my engine bay currently has!!

Finish looks a bit like A hammered finish, but looks pretty good for a free favour and considering it’s aircraft grade ceramic heat resistant paint.......... but is it P38 resistant....

Hubba hubba!! :D

Nearly wrote earlier, dunno if I'd prefer shiny metal coloured bananas or sweet looking black bananas. I don't much like the look of any under bonnet components, could ask a woman lol.