The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
8 posts

Greetings from Yorkshire.
I'm hoping someone can help me; this is a query concerning PSI Motorsport performance chips for the diesel engine.
My P38 is a DHSE, 1999 MY, chassis XA with a plastic inlet manifold. 222,000 miles.
I have two different PSI Motorsport chips (both used), and I'd like to fit one - but which one ? Professor Google only wants to sell me a new one. He offers no website for PSI Motorsport, so really I've drawn a blank. I'm hoping that the experience and knowledge within this Forum will come to the rescue. Here's my best shot at describing each one:
Chip 'A' : Tees into the Manifold Absolute Pressure's ELECTRICAL connection on the diesel filter head. Sticker on the outside of the chip reads: PB 20 00 11, SN 33754. Sticker on the inside reads: 2005 WK 16, VC:ww, FT:ww.
Chip 'B' : Tees into the MAP's VACUUM pipe between inlet manifold and switch on filter head. Sticker on the outside of the chip reads: 10 00 11 and 11565. Sticker on the inside reads: 2000 / 1201, VC:ww, FT:ww.
Probably not necessary to say, but both chips are tee-ed into the round plug/socket close to the Fuel Injection Pump, presumably to modify communications between the engine's ECU and the FIP.
Thanking you in advance.

Hello again all.
Thanks for the responses. To reply to your comments:
Yes BrianH, it is the same lot who run the Newbury Showground day. According to their mag, that's on 2nd April & 10th October this year.
Davew - Apologies if I gave the impression that the parts are new, they are all used (believed good, as most were individually Klingfilm-wrapped and all stored on Dexion shelving in their garage).
Gilbertd: What I'm hoping to do is get rid of as much as possible in one day, rather than individually - with endless trips to the Post Office ! If that doesn't happen, I may well take you up on your suggestion. Emmotts of Colne are continuing, but they are concentrating on the more recent (lucrative ?) models. They also want rid of their stock of Freelander 1 parts - if anyone is interested.

Happy New Year to all, from Yorkshire.
A few weeks ago, I bought the remaining stock of used P38 parts from Emmott's of Colne - to keep my RR going when bits get more difficult to find. Predictably, many of these parts are not relevant to my RR, so I could do with off-loading them. Selling through eBay and posting so many items fills me with dread. However, I notice in Land Rover Monthly magazine that they are hosting a "Land Rover, 4x4 and Vintage Spares Day" at Ripon Racecourse in March (and another in October). As this is close to me, I am wondering about taking a pitch there. My missus commented: "Is it going to be worthwhile, bearing in mind the rarity of P38s ?". Of course, she quite correct...
Sooo... Here's the question: Would any of you be thinking of going to this Spares Day in March (whether or not I go) ?
I stress: I'm only 'considering' going.
I'm not sure which date it is in March - the magazine says the 12th, while their website says the 5th. The postcode for Ripon Racecourse is HG4 1UG.
On a different subject, many, many thanks to everyone for the invaluable information on this Forum. You've saved me hours of head-scratching.
All the best,

Thankyou for the reply. I rejected duct tape thinking that with the heat involved the 'sticky' would become 'slidey'. From what you say, not so.
Thanks for the links as well.

Greetings from Yorkshire, UK.
Nine months ago I bought a '99 DHSE with 222,000 miles. Since then I've been steadily working on it rejuvenating the tired bits (using this forum to benefit from the astounding wealth of accumulated knowledge, for which thanks to all).
Last week I got round to tackling the LH Blend Motor. Took various bit off but still couldn't even see it.
Someone advised that this problem could be the result of a stuck flap, rather than failure of the motor, and suggested turning the starter switch from zero to position 2 and back to zero several times to get the HEVAC to cycle the motor/flap - thereby 'freeing it off'. I tried that - no joy.
Lightbulb moment: Knowing that the motor is rated at 7 volts, without removing anything else, I used a PP3 - 9 volt battery to cycle the motor back-and-forth a few times. It worked. Exclamation mark and prayer-book icons extinguished. (Am under no illusions - I realise they may come back on...).
Method: From the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual, page K4-7, with the HEVAC control unit removed - use pins 11 & 12 on plug C1597.
While there, consider cycling the other two motors as well, pins 9&10 and pins 6&16.
In my ETM's Connector Views Z6, connector C1597 doesn't feature, so to identify the position of the pins (not the colours), I referred to C1286 on page Z6-96.
When doing it, the area needs to be quiet so you can hear the motor cycling. Each 'traverse' took between six and nine seconds.
If I knew how to add a picture I would do, but...
While posting this, eventually I'd like to remove the heater ducting which is close to a) the driver's left knee and b) the passenger's right knee (RHD car). I realise the rear passengers would 'suffer'... Does anyone have the LH & RH replacement trunking/link from a non-a/c system that they are prepared to sell ? For reference, these are illustrated in the Workshop Manual, section 80, pages 5 and 2.
I now have various bits to sell - and to buy. Can I do it on this Forum ?
Best to all,

No, the Champ went in 1972 in favour of a Ford GPW (Ford's version of the Willys GP), that went a couple of years later. Interestingly, having not been in a Champ since 1972, I was at a vintage gathering at Flookborough (Cumbria) 2 or 3 years ago and got talking to a Champ owner... "Can I sit in it, please ?" "Fiil your boots, mate". The interesting bit: All the controls fell to hand - the intervening 46 years hadn't dulled the memory...

Trawling through this Forum, I've just read this. Could it have been L Jackson, The Rocket Site, Misson, Bawtry, Near Doncaster ? I too went there in Austin the '70s and was intrigued by the range of ex-military gear they had (including a Land Rover on steroids with 900x16 tyres - no, not a 101). I was there for a rear axle for my Champ...

Greetings to all from Yorkshire.
I write to introduce myself, this is my first offering.
A couple of months ago I bought a 1999, diesel DHSE with 222,000 miles on it. (Quote from the guy I bought it from: "Eeee, there's more works on it than doesn't". Hmmmm).
Shortly after getting it I needed a zebra connector for the Hevac. While speaking to the zebra guy in Spalding, he told me of this Forum. Wow. A game-changer. Up until then I believed I was on my own with the P38's foibles. It was an eye-opener to read the posts. Such in-depth knowledge, offered freely by selfless enthusiasts, is not only refreshing, but confidence-boosting. Suddenly, I'm not on my own... Thankyou all for that. (I'm still laughing at "Heart of gold, nerves of steel..." - What is the YCHJCYA2PDTHFH Club ?).
Jobs I knew abought when I bought the P38:
"King-pin" ball joints,
PS oil leak (near the box, not necessarily from the box),
Injector pump leak,
Hot starting,
Shockers & bump stops,
Front calipers (pads binding),
Tensioner - aux drive belt,
Auto gearbox - 'tired/lifeless',
Mirrors not adjusting.
Although I'm not at the mechanical level as many of you, I was an HGV mechanic for twenty years, so half-competent.
Vehicles I've had started in 1967 with an Austin Champ, then a Ford GPW (their version of the Willys GP), many LR's including a self-built 3.9 V8 Auto and a couple of Lightweights, a Haflinger, three Classic RR's, a P38 (sold fifteen years ago - the electrics beat me). Presently a 1994 300Tdi LR 90.
On the recommendation of Phil in Spalding, and backed up by this Forum, I bought a Nanocom. Although I've used it for the first time this morning - it knows more about me than I know about it.
Having started to de-pimp the P38, I've removed the side-steps, and the 'hoops' from the wrap-around bull bar. Does anyone know the part numbers of the two brackets which the bull bar mounts to (the ones that sit over the front bumper)?
If I remove the driving lights from the A-frame, will a 'bulb failure' message be generated?
Doubtless I'll be in touch again.
Once more, I'm chuffed to have found this Forum.
My best to you all,