I can’t find the pin out information for the GROM unit but, yes, all the 7 Alpine HU used pins are wired through to the GROM 20 pin connector. The GROM cable black wire (normally ground) is off the mini ISO pin 15 (brown in the vehicle wiring) which is the +12V permanent but if the switched +12V is being held, effectively, as the ground level in the GROM unit then it sort of makes sense.
I’ll connect it up and see what happens I just hope I don’t blow the head unit or the GROM unit or both!!!!
Hi Marty, I have that cable but the wiring of it doesn’t make any sense to me with regard to the pin outs on the back of the Alpine radio e.g. pins 16 & 17 on the blue mini ISO plug are connected together on pin 2 of the 20 pin connector??? This seems to suggest to me that they are the audio input grounds for the GROM! Pin 16 on the back of the Alpine HU is supposed to be +12V ignition switched and pin 17 the data ground.
I have managed to acquire a GROM BT-3 unit but understand that it needs a RVRN2 cable to work with the Alpine HU of a 2001 Vogue. GROM do not seem to do this cable anymore! Therefore does anyone have the detail of this cable (connector pin to pin info) so I can make one up?
Over the past couple of weeks:
Both the front and rear crankshaft main oil seals have been replaced as has the rear transfer box oil seal. There is no way I can get the gearbox out at home for the rear seal so this had to be done by the Indy for me. Mrs Garvin decreed that if Rangie didn’t stop leaking oil on the drive then it would have to go!!! Rangie is, at last, oil tight . . . . . . . for now!
Whilst out both propshafts and UJs fully inspected and, incredibly, found to be in good order so treated to a good greasing.
Rebuilt EAS valve block installed.
The ‘patina’ (read wear) on the steering wheel leather and leather gear shift knob have been cleaned back, recoloured and resealed.
New sub-woofer speakers installed and the removed ones have now had new foams and cones reglued so have joined my stock of ready use spares.
The CD changer has been stripped down and repaired . . . . . . yet again!!
Perhaps I wasn’t clear in my previous post. I use two screwdrivers simultaneously, one on each side of the sensor to get it moving straight and not binding. I find that once it has started to move then it will come out relatively easy with some light tapping under the lip. I did have one many years ago that would not budge no matter what method of persuasion was used. Yes, that one had to be drilled out! However, by using copious amounts of silicone grease and shiny new cages on installation I have not had one ever corrode in place since. It must be silicone grease to be sufficiently water repellent/insoluble.
Sounds like the risk of a flat battery in the making! Will the BeCM stand a relay on that circuit? If so it would be better wiring the supply via a relay and switching the relay from the courtesy light circuit.
Having replaced ABS sensors many times herewith my most successful methods:
The ABS sensor has a slight ridge/lip around its circumference at the top just below the cable entry. You can get a flat ended screwdriver under this lip on each side and lever the sensor upwards using the hub 'sleeve' as the fulcrum. Once you have a decent gap twixt hub and sensor then locate a screwdriver flat end under the lip and pointing up at an angle and gently tap the sensor out. If you use pipe grips or similar too heavily it distorts the sensor body which only serves to jam the thing more tightly in the housing. Always use a new clean cage and plenty of silicon grease when installing a new sensor.
What buttons? Its just an interference fit on mine but the internal lug prevents the connector being twisted to help removal (there is a groove in the ABS sensor male plug end that lines up with the lug in the female socket to line up the two electrical pins). Therefore it requires a very thin flat bladed screwdriver to (very) carefully lever male plug out of the female socket slightly and once it has started to move it then requires an amount of manual BF&I* to completely separate the connector.
The clips on the hub and bodywork that the cable clips into 'dissolved' on mine years ago. I have a plan to make up some more when I have the inclination but they are not strictly necessary - the ABS sensor cable can be loosely cable/zip tied to follow the route of the hydraulic brake pipes - just make sure the route is correct with enough 'slack' so the suspension can operate without straining the cables and the front wheels can turn lock to lock without stressing the cable. BTW, I have rarely found the rubber 'grommets' on the sensor cable to be in the correct position and these often required their position to be adjusted to fit into the clips with the correct routing and radii - so don't use them as a guide as to the correct placement of the cable.
*Brute force and ignorance.