The mechanic I sent it to, who my bodyshop guy recommended, said he'd never seen one with commpression only on one.
He said he would expect to get compression on 6 or 7 as normal but this is the first one he's seen just with one.
Ferryman wrote:
MHT wrote:
I just thought I'd check to see if anyone on here had one? They come up on various P38 Facebook groups and obviously eBay, but I thought I'd check here first as it's a bit more of a trusted community!
For me it was a reason not to offer it on here, I just sold one. I've had it all apart and renewed conn bearings, mains, pistonrings and skimmed the heads but left the oilpump as it was, as the camshaft and valvegear.
It is sold 'as is', I did not want to sell it 'within the family'. I've been dissappointed myself too many times .Tony.
I can understand that Tony, but things go wrong and I'd rather buy from someone on here in good faith and take my chances than from eBay where someone is actively to bad faith me!
Would a 4.0 Thor work, or does a non 4.6 cause further problems?
I just got a call to say that the engine on mine only has compression on one cylinder - so it is pretty sick!
The garage has suggested that I try and source another engine as they suspect the block is likely to be in a bad way.
I just thought I'd check to see if anyone on here had one? They come up on various P38 Facebook groups and obviously eBay, but I thought I'd check here first as it's a bit more of a trusted community!
Many thanks,
Mark
Well, this might be the end if the P38 dream. I'm currently sitting on the side of the M4 waiting for a recovery truck :-(
Ticking noise, then steam then power loss. Managed to get over to the hard shoulder. Looks like oil has exited between the block and the head. Head gasket? Anyway, getting it recovered home and then will make a plan.
Gutted.
Well the interior is pretty much finished now - just a few finishing bits required so I thought I'd start on the outside today. I decided before starting that I'd do a panel at a time - the process is clean, apply a fallout remover, clay bar, first stage polish, second stage polish and then wax. Plus, by the time I've done all that quite a bit of time has passed and frankly, it gets boring!
I decided on quite an aggressive polish & pad combination, partly becasue the paint all over is pretty terrible and secondly because this isn't a show queen and I'm trying not to be too precious about it.
Fallout remover working
I then realised it was gone 12pm and the mini cask runs out this weekend so I passed some time
Starting point
Masked up and working areas set
50/50 after first pass
There were some deeper scratches showing
I hit them with a heavier scratch remover
Mid way
Door waxed and complete (poor 4pm light by this time)
Still lots to do, but happy with the start. It isn't perfect, still chips and scrapes but it is looking more presentable.
Thanks for the comments - looks like a new hub then!
Marty - not sure I'd be brave enough to do it myself. It fails my own mechanical test - "if I mess this up could it kill me" - wheel coming off is a yes!
I've got slight play in one of my front wheel bearings. I've been I contact with two indys and both are quoting to change the complete hub rather than just the bearing. Is this normal?
No 1 Supplied & fitted £463.80
No 2 Supplied & fitted £437.03
If not, can anyone recommend somewhere to go that would do the bearing only? Don't mind traveling!
Mark
Thanks for the feedback. That leaves me with:
Major Service Items
Change engine oil & filter
Change power steering fluid
Renew coolant and thermostat
Replace header tank pressure cap
Change diff fluid
Change transfer case oil
Replace spark plugs and leads
Replace air filter
Replace pollen filter
Replace serpentine belt
Inspect brake pads & discs
Change brake fluid
Grease every nipple
Inspect all propshaft UJs. Any play- replace
Wheel balance and tracking
Main battery and ground cables- clean connectors and chassis mounting points
Preventative Replacements
Replace water pump
EAS compressor rebuild
Possibly
ATF & Filter Change
gordonjcp wrote:
The only thing I'd leave off is the gearbox service, that always seems to precipitate gearbox problems.
Is this a common problem? I read that the advised scheduled fluid change is every 30k. I've got an Lexus and the thinking on that is that a gearbox flush can be problematic, but a drain a refill is normally trouble free
Hey guys,
As I posted previously, I bought my P38 rather wrecklessly without driving and with no service history. After a local garage giving it a check over nothing too major was noted, but I would like to do a full service so that I've got a base point to start from going forward. With a list borrowed from another site I believe that the following is failry comprehensive:
Change engine oil & filter
Change power steering fluid
Change brake fluid & bleed
Gearbox ATF flush, renew and new filter
Renew coolant and thermostat
Change diff fluid
Change transfer case oil
Replace spark plugs and leads
Replace air filter
Replace pollen filter
Replace serpentine belt
I'm completely lacking mechanically, but I would like to address this. Does any one know a garage / specialist that I could perform the service alongside so that I can hopefully begin to grasp the skills? I don't want to go down the route of doing it unattended from Haynes / RAVE / YouTube as my worry is that if something is not done quite right I lack the knowledge to notice it. Obviously if anyone is glutton for punishment enough to give me a hand in a trade for £/beer/cuban cigars that'd be great too.
Also, if there anything obvious missing from that list?
Many thanks,
Mark
Yes I steamed the leather - I tried a few different ways but the best method seemed to be by using the little brush attachment that came with the steamer. I soaked, agitated, steam with the brush (only a bit bigger than a toothbrush) and then wiped. On the front seats it has exposed the cracks in the leather a little more, but seeing as it was basically dirt plugging the holes I wasn't too concerned. Plus, I plan on filling and dying the leather over the damaged sections so will remedy this down the line.
Orangebean wrote:
Watch yourself with the wet vac on the carpets. The BECM under the seat really doesn't like getting wet, the various connectors aren't too fond either!
Starting to clean up outside nicely.
I was just using a spray bottle and brush so nothing that soaked it too much.
Sloth wrote:
Damn... the car's nice.... but that garage....
I know! I was visiting a client in London and that's their garage, very sympathetic lighting!
GeorgeB wrote:
Welcome. See you found us okay.
They had one that colour at the place I got my white one back in the UK and I wanted it badly. Unfortunately it was just out of my price range then.
Yes, thanks for the pointer George
Well the clean up continues - I bought a steam cleaner yesterday for the seat and trims. I wanted to know that the car was actually clean germ wise as well as visually as it was pretty disgusting in there when I bought it and I wanted it to be as clean as possible before I take my niece and nephew anywhere in it. Another day should have the interior finished - here's some updates.
The side of the seat looked a bit dirty, so I decided to take the cover off and I found what can only be described as sludge!
Cleaned and back together
Soak & Scrub
Steamed
Midway 50/50
I'm all for it in principle - it will just depend on the dates.
I can bring my machine polisher and I'm going to buy a snl steam cleaner today for the interior so could bring that along too.
Thanks for the feedback - I cleared it yesterday only for it to come back 3 miles later. I'll keep at it and also check the solenoids
Ferryman wrote:
Nice rig you have there, did it belong to a farmer moving haystacks now and then?
I think it has been used for several Christmas tree disposals!
SpiggyTopes wrote:
Welcome!
Is it on springs or air?
Slightly problematic air
Gilbertd wrote:
Welcome Mark, I'd say somewhere down south from the palm trees, maybe in Orangebean area (Devon)?
Actually far less glamorous - the Shell petrol startion at Park Royal on the A40 coming out of London - I collected it just around the corner
You're lucky you were able to clean the headlining, in most cases it's drooping around your head where the foam disintegrates.
It is sagging a bit at the back, but it isn't too bad at the front.
As for the HEVAC, Marty on here does refurbished ones on exchange.
In touch with Marty already ;-)
Starting to look a bit more respectable
Testing trim products
Delivery from Rimmer Bros
New wheels from eBay
Wheels on and sympathetic lighting after a clean (sadly not my garage!)
Initially it rose to full height, but after I cleared it 10 days ago it went up and down properly ie motorway mode above 50mph and normal height under 35mph.
Today it is still sitting at what looks like 'normal' height - it doesn't look overly extended & it stays at the correct height overnight.
After my initial intro a few hours ago I was feeling rather full of myself with what I considered not a major list of problems from the garage.
The Range Rover gods have decided to punish me and promptly threw me an EAS fault. When I bought the cars I had the full EAS Christmas Tree together with the merry little Ranger Rover with the arrow pointing up. I bought a cable from eBay and it showed the Pressure Signal Constantly High error. I cleared it and have since covered about 200 error free miles, albeit it has started to rise of its own accord a couple of times, so I thought maybe it was a one off. I took it for a run last night, the first time at motorway speed having fitted new tyres, and it went into to motorway/highway?! setting of its own accord and all seemed tickedyboo.
Having plugged in EAS Unlock again it is showing the same fault has reappeared. Most of the interweb points to a faulty Air Suspension Drive Box AKA Driver Pack. RSW suggests checking the Main Pressure Switch before replacing the driver pack.
1) Anymore suggestions?
2) How would I go about checking the main pressure switch? RSW says:
Main Pressure Switch. Check the functionality. If Pressure switch is normal, then problem is most likely sourced with the EAS Driver Pack.
Many thanks,
Mark
It was basically a feast for all the senses.
Hi guys,
I thought I'd say hello! I just bought a P38 about 10 days ago. I'm normally pretty sensible buying cars, but in this case I did everything that you shouldn't do. Bought it from an eBay style auction site, saw it in the flesh but didn't hear it run or drive it, it had no service history and it was full of fault lights. It was covered in dirt, cobwebs, stank inside and generally looked a bit sad. So I knew then it had to be saved! Whilst enthusiastic I lack any sort of mechanical skills so I'm hoping I can pick a few things up. I'm ok with the cosmetic side so I've already removed the nicotine staining and smell from the headlining with a bio cleaner, wet vac'd the carpets and begun cleaning and conditioning the leather. Also got my supplies in to start machine polishing the bodywork.
I took it to a garage nearby yesterday who have Autologic. They carried out a visual check, cleared all the faults (lots of them!), road tested it and reported back with the following:
Cured the SELECT NEUTRAL error by fixing the wiring (I was a bit worried about that error)
New OSF Window Regulator
OS Headlight cracked
Front & Rear washer jets not working
Play in OSF Antiroll Bar Link
Play in OSF Wheel Bearing
Centre Exhaust Rubber Broken
Blend Flap Motor Error
The only fault to return was the Blend Flap Motor error. My HEVAC screen is pretty much unreadable, but I'm sure it will have the chequebook on.
Plenty there to keep me busy!
Mark