Okay got it.
These vehicles are really quite logical despite peoples belief, think that’s my favourite thing about them!
So blend motor needs a fix, as does the leak. Like you say I think it’s best go with the O-rings, even if it’s not them that’s the problem, for a few quid and the hassle factor they’re worth a go!
I’ve seen the Audi mod and that’s not what I’ve got in mind. A company called ‘Nissans’ make the one I’m taking about. £35 and they’re the same dimensions just different end-cap/ fixings.
Now luckily the blend motor is the right in this instance, as I think these are accessible with via the instrument cluster ? I can see the thing, with only the local shrouds removed, therefore surely I can sneak it out and do a service ?? Suggestions on that??
Ps once again huge thanks, I seriously owe you all a beer, and happily will be held to it.
I’m not sure as of yet what it could be. I’m assuming O-Rings but it’s clear someone’s been behind the dash before, is there any obvious signs on these as to which is the cause?
A previous symptom of the fault was hot air only being vented on the Left side of the car, but this I’m under the assumption is blend motor failure. Only cool natural air would blow on the right.
What’s been noted of the leak so far is that it’s only seen on the right hand footwell, nothing on the left, but the attachment is on this side with the in-pipes so that makes sense. Thus making me think it’s the less labour intensive solution.
However I’m tempted to go for a new matrix, one aftermarket company has deleted the need for the RRover bung fit and put plastic pipe male-ends on the cap. Opinions on that as an idea?
Yes for sure! Parts on order. While a lot of the interior is apart I’ll be doing the heater matrix in the meantime. Leaking really quite badly !
Of course, here’s the details.
So the Head Unit is a ‘Pioneer DEH-P6500R’
The amplifier interface is ‘InCar-Tec, Landrover-Range Rover II P38A 1994-2002 AMPLIFIER INTERFACE LEAD 10 PIN ISO PRE-AMP CABLE‘ found on eBay and their own website. It’s something someone can make on their own with some know how but I chose the easy option this time. I’m impressed in fairness with its quality. £55.00 at time of purchase.
So further update!
Once again firstly thanks for the help it’s great!
So rear door amp RHS was there, thus meaning original door and wiring. Swapped this amp with one that’s known to work. This subsequently got the RHS rear to work as should.
So a new one of those is in order whilst the faulty one is going over to the electronics department at work. Maybe it’s an easy fix for the door amps. Will let you know.
As for the front I think you’re right and that will be the course of action. A new door amp to be installed and wired off the existing loom (including the grey/black) wire that’s inboard of the A pillar. A new loom for the door isn’t expensive either so may purchase one and try for a plug and play.
I’ll update and conclude this process with some nice detailing for anyone jumping on the thread in future also.
As per many thanks!
Hello all again and thank you for your replies!
So I’ve read over what’s been said and investigated further. This has been found.
LHS front door car removal has revealed the early door mounted amplifier, the item not found on the RHS.
The grey where comment led me to this after no connection found between the kickplate loom plug and the door output plugs.
So RHS door has obviously been replaced with the low spec one at some point….
Now With this in mind, my options are (I’m assuming)
My question about running new wires however is, that grey/black wire needs to have a role im guessing ? Does that provide power on these HLine system door speakers via the door amp, therefore need to be tapped into ?
Many thanks,
Charlie
Hi all, hope you’re well.
The car.
1997 4.6 HSE 100k miles, aftermarket head unit pioneer, HK sound system, aftermarket amplifier interface to connect ISO to LandRover Pink 10 pin.
The fault.
No speakers are working on the right hand side of the car. They haven’t since purchased. LHS works fine as expected. HK tweeters, with door cars off and speakers out no HK mentioned on speaker labels, just landrover logo. 3 speakers in driver door, two in rear door.
What’s been tried.
New head unit, (originally thought this was the fault) the new one is tested as working.
New amplifier interface to allow the subwoofer and additional audio devices to work. (Before had a cut iso connector to exclude two orange wires for the 10 pin pink).
Trims taken apart, wires read resistance with a multimeter from the kick plate (by bonnet latch) to the door speakers, also resistance read from the kick plate to the head unit.
Looked for an amplifier in the door, none found, then searched rear above CD changer, none found. (My understanding is early has 4X amps in doors, late has 1X in rear of car).
Additional info.
So all speakers work, they’ve been tested, wires all seem ok, no corrosion visible at any of the splice locations and the multimeter reads them fine.
If I rotate the pink 10 pin 180deg, the sound still comes from the LHS despite the fact now the red/blue (RHS) speaker wires are being power sourced.
So is there an amplifier for the RHS somewhere I can’t find?? The white plug connector that splits from main harness to the front door/ rear doors also seems ok?
I’m going bloody crazy over what should’ve been a simple stereo head unit change. I think thats all the information I have. I’d attach a photo but haven’t worked out how to link a source thing yet.
Any help is hugely appreciated. I’m understanding of a cars radio system and speaker layout but this thing seems a different level! Theres like 30 wires going into the door! Things were seriously hefty before CANBUS.
Many thanks, Charlie