diesel, but in this regard no difference:
the fan is "locked" in the morning and hows with engine revvs for the first kilometer or so, then it quiets down and I don't really hear it for the rest of the trip.
Had two times after one another a fan (aftermarket) from Bearmach, in the end I sent both back as they would not come free, the "morning howl" was permanently present.... zo I put back the genuine one (Swapped after headgaskett failure to be certain the initial overheat was not caused by the fan)
yes, you can get the upper chainguide out, need to block the tensioner with a drillbit or the apropiate tool, to do that you must press the guide against the spring till the tensioner is fully pressed in, then you fit the tool/drilbit and the tension is off, then you remove the bolts holding it in place and you can pull it out.... but that is only one of the 4 guides/tensioners in the chainsystem.
to get to the others you must take the cover off, and to do that the head must be taken off
chassis is totaly different, tow hitch, rear step won't fit. Electric socket had different connector connecting it to the car
At the risk of sounding like someone else, the procedure is all in RAVE. If you haven't downloaded it yet, do it now!
The reason why there's no dipstick on the later cars is the gap where it comes up on an earlier GEMS isn't there any more as it's filled with that big bunch of ally bananas on top of your engine.
Wonder what your explanation is for no dipstick on the Diesel then..... (and the fact that allmost every ZF since the late ninetys no longer came with a dipstick) at a Bosch/Thor V8 there still is a way to get a dipstick into the engine bay if they'd wanted to
yes, without the vacuumpump there is a huge hole in your "timingcover"
STC2220 would solve that, it's the blankingplate non-EGR M51 have instead of the vacuumpump.
does the HEVAC not close it when you press the recirculation button?
ECU swap is simple...swap ECU, read immobilisation code from ECU , and program that in the BECM, you don't need to swap the BECM to swap ECU
all input connected BT carkit have a disadvantage.... the phonesound only works if that input is selected and other inputs don't get muted if a call is received..
over a year ago I had the same issue, it disappeared after some months and this morning it was there again...
turning on the radio makes the subwoofer "plop" and after that it gives a constant volume, constant, low, frequency humm
turning the volume down ultimately will end the humm with a "plop" before that the volume of the humm does not change.
the humm is not affected by the revs of the engine.
MY2000 DSE with HK/Alpine highline sound system
BBcode allso a possibility?? I am not realy familliar with HTML.... very used to the "normal" forumsoftware using BBcode for image and url tags etc...
yeah... IF I replace the clamps it will be with that type you linked... then you can crimp an ring to the cable... allways better than the squeese cable between metal strip type clamps.... hydraulic crimptool <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-HYDRAULIC-CRIMPER-CABLE-10-300mm-ELECTRIC-WIRE-CRIMPING-TOOL-/301839143443?hash=item464703d213:g:eV4AAOSwa-dWiQIn"> like this </a> I have for install of winches and extra battery etc
my DSE never had battery issues (not noticable anyway), but now and then randomly during drive it gave an TC error and the info disappeared in the HEVAC dispay.
One morning a few months ago, I got in the car, turned the key, Beeb Beep. Generator failure.... after the glowlight was out, I turned the key to start, car started, not an issue..no lights kept burning (not even the charge light).
I had (and still have) issues with the EAS that some mornings it is on entry height and before I leave My driveway it sits on drive height.... other mornings it takes a few minutes to get to normal drive height, and this was one of those mornings it would not rise, this time not even in the time it takes me to drive towards the main road (5-7 min)...... drove towards the main road, but still not rising (fully)... I stopped, noticed under the bonnet that the compressor was not running and decided to drive home to collect my laptop just in case I'd get an EAS error.
On the drive home I noticed the interior light was dimm and the headlights as well..... allmost home they went to normal brightness and when I got out at home I heard the compressor running and the car lifted to drive height....
I took off to my first customer, 200km drive, and never had any issue during the drive.... switched off the car, went in, about 5 min later I got back in the car to drive around the building to their workshop... turned the key.... nothing more than a click and a verry faint "dsjoeh" from the starter..... Battery dead.... Jumpstarting wiht his thing jumpstartlead and his Volvo XC90 with difficult to reach battery did not work, so I finished my work, walked to a workshop around the corner they got my car (jumpstart with decent cables) and I got a new battery.....
Gilbert warned me to get a new alternator (spoiler now...you were right)
I drove my car for about 15k km in 2-3 months since then, still the TC-error and HEVAC display issue like before, in the first few weeks with the new battery I had once or twice the generator failure in the infodisplay at ignition on, after that never had that, but never the charge-warning light and appearantly, driving that much km allways with lights on, it charged as well... A few weeks ago I measured voltage while I had some time and the voltage was fluctuating between 13 and15,7 volts (TOO high, I know .... shit cheap aftermarket generator..) I had bought an alternator from a BMW 525TDS thinking it would be the same.... when I unpacked it, I noticed it had a different connector for D+ (and switched voltage) SO.... I took the alternator (valeo105A) out of my offroader, and brought it for overhaul to a car elektro repairshop and dropped the BMW bosch 140A at the same time,
The 140 A is going to be in the offroader (will adapt the loom to fit the new connector with switche voltage supply added) and the valeo 105A is as new and I fitted it into my DSE.
Since then no more HEVAC display going blank and no more TC-error messages.....
So yes people...... Battery and Alternator need to be 100% or you get the most incredible inexplainable errors and faultmessages.....
My two MY2000 DSE have, and my MY99 HSE had, batteryclamps that would not fit strongly to the poles.
the clamps are tightened by a nut with a conical inside, the clamp had at the outer side a bolt with two half cones surrounding it, on this bolt the nut with the conical inside is fitted and if all worked as it should... the nut would pull both ends of the clamp together while pressing its conical inside over the two half cones, forcing them towards eachother....
Sounds nice, looks nice, and probably worked nice too.... for a while.... but on all three of mine the nut is tightened fully, but the clamp can still be taken off the pole....
so... either the cone is worn, or the nut.. or both.... Is there any solution other than fit other clamps..... these are fitted nicely to the batteryleads..... would hate to fit such a stupid one which clamps the cable by screwing two bolts tight over a strip of metal
if it is only for testing the lower wattage is not an issue, the different base might be.
Sometimes the bulb is simply stuck into the base, sometimes it is pointwelded to the contacts..... if it is stuck in, you can pull it out and stick a 1,2w standard T5 socket bulb in and try if that lights up.
You allso can take a multimeter and measure if the contacts on the print have voltage.
wow.... you've got nerves..... admitting you owned Jeeps :-) thank god you went the right way and found Land Rover to complete your life ;-)
They are not as bad as they are talked about, but do need their share of attention and maintanance though. Hope you learn to love yours, even if it sometimes gets stubborn.
can't get that "x"reg system in my head....... have looked it up once, but forgot allready how it worked.... sorry, not a UK resident, still no clue what you guys mean by "x"-reg.... so don't mind me asking about the modelyear (which is anyway more important than the first registration)
let me start with best wishes for the new year 2016.
I've been invited to look overhere when I talked about a little collision I had with a certain yank on RR.net....
I don't mind to join a nice forum on a mutual hobby so... HERE I AM! ;-)
Hope to learn and contribute a lot. ;-)