I've SORN'd cars in the past - really just saves paying the tax. If you leave the vehicle uninsured, you MUST SORN it, or risk getting a hefty fine.
Having it SORN'd and insured is fine, obviously.
Can't see why there would be a reason to keep taxing and insuring - certainly not on a regular basis. It would be a faff, and you'll always lose out on a bit of cash as you can only tax for a minimum of a month. Though whether its still calendar months or a rolling month now I don't know... haven't paid attention to that bit in a while. Someone else will know better I'm sure.
No progress made yet, but an interesting observation. The noise is definitely worse on LPG. On petrol its much quieter and less frequent, but definitely there.
I ran out of gas last week and have been using it on the jungle juice since on the odd days I need it. Reset the adaptives when I parked it up last to see if anything strays from ideal after a few weeks on petrol.
I can relate on how annoying water ingress is - you think you've cracked it... then shortly after a downpour, you find its still raining from the dash...
When you say you've sealed everything under the scuttle - does that include the screws along the bottom of the windscreen? One of my sources of water ingress was the outer most one - the plastic screw insert is directly above the pollen filter, much like the screw near the pollen filter covers.
I've also had the filter housings out entirely and resealed them to the bodywork too.
I don't want to say I've definitively resolved it for now - because... well... its a Land Rover. If its meant to retain a liquid, it will leak it out. If its meant to keep it out, it'll let it in. Change my mind :)
Yes - not the lower pitch noise that is present earlier (that's the water pump, its on the list).
I haven't had a chance to crack out the stethoscope yet - probably going to be next weekend before I get a chance at this rate. Busy week ahead.
Fixed the BMW starter on Saturday, so apart from this evening where its needed to pick up a freezer, the RR can sit and feel sorry for itself for a bit.
The examples I've seen of external/internal valley blows do suggest the middle pots are most likely. Probably #6, as that seems to be having a hard life.
It would give me another crack and sorting the persistent oil leak down the back of the engine I suppose as a bonus.
If it was blowing properly it probably would, but this only squeaks under load currently. I could try pulling a plug lead though on each pot on the side I think it's happening on.
That would narrow it down. Or it rules it out and it keeps doing it :P
It does sound like a belt or ancillary bearing though, that was my first thought/hope/wish/misplaced optimism.
If it is the start of a blow, I'd quite like it to hurry the hell up and make its mind up. I will pull it to bits if it comes to it, see if it can be coaxed on for a bit longer.
In my first post, I've already tried. It's not the belt or anything else that spins externally... unfortunately.
It also comes and goes. Not sure what to do next.
Just to add - in the video throughout there is another sort of whine/noise - its the water pump bearing. I know they're noisy, they have been for a while, spare is waiting to go on. The noise in question is the much louder and higher pitched almost mouse like squeaking at the end. I didn't want to hold the revs up for longer because I enjoy not having my feet run over or burning the already hot ATF.
To be fair - even if its the HG, I won't be surprised or disappointed. The engine is on borrowed time, having had #6 liner crack and be fixed by water glassing it well over a year ago now. I changed the plugs last night and they all looked even - but an internal to the valley or external blow wouldn't have an effect on those anyway unless it wasn't firing on that pot.
It is more frustrating not knowing what the problem is definitively - as much as I don't want it to let go spectacularly, it would answer the question.
I don't know what option I'd take it if it is. It hasn't been overheated, so no warpage to deal with, and the threads shouldn't pull out... so maybe an in-situ gasket swap wouldn't be too much hassle to get a more life out of it yet. The diesel swap is just not on the cards with the available fundage at the moment.
I have a new noise that has developed... and I am slightly stumped currently. Noise starts occurring towards the end of the clip and it sounds exactly like that in person. Audible inside the car clearly.
It only happens under load - in the video it is in drive with handbrake on and another foot hard on the brake. So it isn't UJs, or anything post autobox output.
It starts about mid throttle and between 2-3k. It might persist higher in the rev range but I've been driving sensibly to avoid having two cars off the road. It is there approx 50% of the time too. Lift off and it stops immediately.
It is NOT the belt or any ancillary - it persists with the belt off. I wish it was.
Engine hot or cold.
It appeared to be worse on gas than petrol, but I think that is placebo as it happens on either fuel.
It appears to be on the RH/drivers side, but as with a lot of noises it sounds like it could be underneath, to that side, or on top. But, its definitely further away than the LH/passenger side.
In neutral/park however - gone. Revs up and down sounding lovely.
The most annoying thing about this particular irksome noise, is I am sure I had exactly the same thing with the first engine on my first P38... and I never got to the bottom of it. I'm pretty sure that was 'solved' when it had a replacement engine dropped in. It also had a set of headers already on it. I can't see any evidence of a leak from the little you can see with heat shields in place.
Anybody come across this before?
I find myself dropping to 3-2 going downhill etc too, to prevent it running away with itself. Foot on brake in D while waiting unless its going to be a long time, then into park. Not fussed with the handbrake unless its a steep incline - where I'm more likely to keep my foot on the brake myself than rely on the P38's hand brake setup.
One of the few things I like about my E60 BMW - the autobox will shift down itself when going down hills much more willingly to maintain speed. That, and the cruise control despite not being adaptive does apply the brakes to maintain speed as well as shift the box. Something the P38 is comparatively hopeless in doing when going downhill relying on CC..
But unlike my E60 at the moment with a dead starter, my P38 is being my daily this week... it has however developed a new noise that might result in a thread in a oily bits later :/
Sounds like you could do with an RF filter.......... ;)
I jest. Have you upset it perhaps by driving that j**p thing again?
The OEM side steps rust out the box section framework underneath badly. I had a quick look at a set a while ago and replacing the metalwork didn't seem like that much of a ballache.
I have some aftermarket L322-esque steps on mine, and they're encapsulated steel... so unfortunately when they start to go they'll be like the mudflaps - not worth repairing. They're mostly there for aesthetics, but I like them.
Could well be - I've got a case of the Raptor branded stuff that I have yet to use, and a gun suitable for it. I think it will do a good job.
When I properly repair my inner sill, I'm going to clean the underside up and spray bed liner on as an undercoating. Americans seem to love it - and if you look at what it can stand up against... its easy to see why.
Every time I've had to dry out foam on a P38 from the front carpet, I've gotten a bit ruthless and cut it out. I then give it a washing in clean water to get the coolant out before drying it out completely. It is amazing how much water it will retain and the difference in weight once dry! Always goes back in and you'd never know it was ever taken out.
Mine is finally, I think, starting to generally dry out everywhere else inside. Windscreen has steamed up again I notice this evening but we've been out in it so the A/C evaporator is probably now drying off causing that.
It has however started pinging by the sounds of it... time for some engine TLC to keep it hanging in.
Did you zero the meter with it close to where you were clamping? In DC mode, other magnetic fields can influence DC clamp meters quite a lot. So best to zero it close to the cable, then clamp on.
But as tanis says - if you're clamping on the main battery cable (or ground), it could be other things sucking the amps too.
Sounds about right for a setup where they are all switched on at the same time. Some newer cars pulse them individually, which had me really confused how they were getting away with a weedy main feed to the control unit until I worked it out.
Bolt wrote:
PS: How long and at what temperature do you bake your filters? Mine always come out tough no matter how I cook them! (HP sauce works well as a topping)
A nice low-medium 60-70 degrees science (none of this freedom unit rubbish) works well ;)
More a BBQ sauce fan myself. Be sure to brush them first to remove any lumpy bits that may not have evened out in the mix. Or don't - added texture.
I just find it a lot easier than using a traditional ammeter or multimeter in line - and it can be used in many situations where you might not want to cut into cabling if it cant be disconnected already. Or as Morat says, you don't want to risk a battery disconnection.
Plus... you're not limited to 10 or 20 amps like most meters - if the current suddenly spikes, nothing goes pop - the meter might go out of range but that's it. My BMW will sit there with the keys out, sucking 20 amps, if the welcome home lights etc come on. Measured with the DC amp clamp, don't you know :)
Uni-T, I'll take a cheque for the plugging ;)