Today I had my windscreen replaced, by the company my insurer provides - Nationwide Motorglass.
I left the car in a nice open space with plenty of room around it, and let the guy get on with it. He let me know how long it would be etc, all fine. I checked with him that they'd supplied a heated windscreen, and not made a mistake with the wrong glass etc. All fine.
Hour or so goes by, and its all done. No problems mentioned, told to leave time before driving, longer before washing etc. Anyway - I get home, pop the bonnet to check no dislodged trims. Notice a screw missing, but no biggy.
My old heated windscreen had about 3 lines total that worked - and was open circuit one side, so it basically didn't work. I tested the resistance from the relay sockets to ground to check it was all connected okay (not exactly the weather to be testing it, and who knows if it should be left for the adhesive to cure fully before using it). One side open circuit, the other, 1.4Mohms. errrrrrrr... that isn't right.
Figured fine - it hasn't been plugged in properly. So I pop the strip at the bottom of the windscreen off carefully... and the air turns blue.
For those that haven't seen this area before... at the bottom of the glass in the middle of the screen should be two black wires - the grounds for the two halves of the screen. Both, as you can see, have been cut clean off. The black wire visible is the remains of one ground wire to the old glass.
This is the remains of the passenger side positive cable, again, from the old glass. This was presumably the side giving me 1.4mohm, as it was flapping around touching the body/painted surfaces. Brilliant - so a cable that would properly eventually wear through the paint and short out.
What he has done is pull the old glass out of the body, ripping off the cables in the process. He has then cut off all of the wires on the new glass, and bonded it in. What the fuck.
I can only assume he has ripped the old glass out before realising some of the screws holding the scuttle panel in were rusty, but frankly you could still get the positives in place and connected even so. The grounds a bit tricker maybe. But he should have at that point contacted me, to ask what to do. I would have happily removed the screws myself as I have now done to inspect the damage. The positive loom on the drivers side has had the connector bracket bent, and the rubber cable bung pulled out of the body. Thankfully the plug itself wasn't broken.
I have been in contact with the company, who are sending someone out on Tuesday to 'inspect' it to confirm what I'm saying. If he/they even try and deny he has cut the wires off the new screen, they won't get far:
On Tuesday I'll be leaving the car in our visitor parking, which will cover it entirely in HD CCTV.
I am incensed by this... what was he hoping? That it would get to winter and I just wouldn't notice? It would still come back to his company. How many others does this happen to? Is it just him, is it standard practice when its 'too hard' to do a proper job?
Fucks sake. I hate being watched while I work, so I left him to it - he's a professional, supposedly. Now though... I'll be sat there watching whoever does it next, as well as having it recorded in full view. Sometimes its just easier to be paranoid, can't trust anyone to do a proper bloody job.
I've just changed my tailgate straps as one snapped a while back.
The replacements I've put on are Bearmach, but both ends have been crimped on in the same orientation, meaning the cable needs to twist for one end to be screwed in. So the first time I close the tailgate, they twisted, and one had a chunk taken out of the rubber/plastic sleeve as it got trapped between the tailgate and body... no amount of changing the twist makes things good - they either get caught in the body or caught in the door seal...
I'll be returning these as they're crap, the ends also don't rotate freely because the washer type thing is too big and it ends up clamping down on itself.
Has anyone bought any that are decent, if so, who/what/where? :) Specifically avoided Britpart and still ended up with junk from Bearmach... sad times.
While I'm repairing my nudge bar, I could do with a measurement of the depth available for spot lights - ie the distance between the front edge and the radiator grille with the bar fitted to the vehicle. I know the LR Safari 5000 lights fit - but I want to fit something else, but they're a bit deeper.
If anyone can oblige that would be much appreciated :)
Pic for attention:
Much like the mud guards... these things are horrendous for rusting under the foam/rubber and quickly becoming beyond repair.
So my parent's P38 has had a bit of a whiff of petrol on startup from the front, and about a week ago I saw the car again and it was obvious it was now constant, so it was parked up till I could get to it. Ordered new orings for the injectors, and various other bits to give it a service. It had started missing at idle etc and generally fuel consumption was way up.
So, assuming it was the o-rings, we pulled the upper plenum off (its a Thor), and had my dad turn the ignition on just to see if we could spot which one was leaking. Nope. Huge cloud of fuel vapour suddenly started pouring in from behind the coil packs, and I made various noises before diving for the extinguisher in the back of mine...
The Thor is returnless, with a single plastic shaped fuel line that connects to the rail underneath the coil packs, and has an abrasion protection thing around it. Or... it should have:
Someone has broken the original line, and replaced it with 6" of some kind of rubber hose... even if that were fuel hose, that's down the back of a very hot engine with no airflow at all. Either way, its disintegrated, and you can see all the cracks in it. Scary.
As for the poor running... one of the HT leads was falling off.
Boring question time!
Currently I have a pair of Britpart's finest £2 wiper blades on my car. Stuck them on an Island order to get free postage... as expected, they work about as well as 10 year old dried up blades pulled off a barn find. Chattering on the way up making a lovely noise.
I'd like some nicer looking (and preferably better working) flat blades - but I'm not sure what to go for. I'd also like the passenger side to be a bit shorter than standard, the overhang on all the blades I've had in the past bugs me.
Thoughts? Riveting stuff.
A glorious sounding problem.
My first P38 sulking at the back slowing undergoing weight reduction, my parent's red Bordeaux in the middle here for me to fit a towbar, and my latest silver R reg with a Bosch engine up front. A strange vehicle it seems, ignoring the engine, it has side airbags too, which I thought didn't come until 99-00 onwards? Seems Land Rover owned it for the first two years of its life going by the service history.
Just tried to search for '8mm' under posts, but it no likey:
Feels like the pub is getting enough threads to warrant searching, which is nice!
Would anyone be able to upload a copy of this to an FTP site or somewhere for me? I can provide an FTP site if needed. Everywhere I've been able to find online references the old green oval, which seems to point to a domain squatter now.
I know there is the Russian online one, I'd prefer to have a proper copy on my old laptop.
Bit off topic but there seems to be a vast array of random knowledge here so figured I'd see if any of you have any ideas on this!
I have a 3/4hp (as in, 0.75) hermetic refrigeration compressor that started tripping a breaker intermittently on startup. Now it trips every time.
It has a start and a run capacitor. I've tried another start capacitor that I robbed from another unit (same rating), no change. The potential relay contacts are closed, so the start cap is in circuit at startup. I then noticed the run cap appears to have gone open circuit, but I'm not sure if that is the cause or a symptom - I have a replacement that is meant to arrive today. I'm not convinced its going to solve it though - from what I gather, it should attempt to run if not particularly well without it. Or sit and hum until the overload protection cuts it off.
The breaker to the circuit is a B type 32amp, suggesting its pulling silly amps for some reason or has gone dead short. Checking the windings, I'm getting 3.3 ohms on the run, and 9.5 on the start. Specs call for 3.3 on run and 12 on start, so start seems a bit low but isn't a dead short. Prior to it tripping constantly, when it would run, it never made any odd noises either while running or on startup, so I don't think its seized up. It isn't short to earth either. Checked the wiring throughout the rest of the unit and its fine - disconnecting the feed to the compressor results in the breaker not tripping when its contactor pulls in, so I'm sure its at fault.
I need/want to pot some spade terminals in a plastic connector, that will be subject to relatively high temperatures - around 100c (guess what, ha).
So far as I'm aware, most 2 part epoxy resins won't remain all that solid that hot. Any suggestions on something that will bond and hold up well?
Checking on things today and noticed something looked a bit... odd
Could you possibly take a picture of something for me?
My steering has been getting a bit wondery of late, and while I know any play in bushes etc underneath can cause tramlining/vagueness etc, my tyres are definitely in need of replacement. I have adjusted the steering box with no effect either on the wondering thing - and the indy had it a week ago or so and couldn't find play in anything underneath. I may call upon the almighty Marty though and his shiny tool to replace the 18 year old radius arm bushes for good measure at some point.
Currently I have Nexen Roadian HPs on it - and they've been fine I guess. A slightly damp field though has them totally flummoxed. I mean - trying to park in a field I'd have better chances in a RWD BMW with no weight over the back end. That was months ago too, now the front two don't have much left on the outer edges (worse on the inside, but not massively so), and all four have some perishing/cracking going on on the sides.
General Grabber AT - they seem to be a popular choice with little complaining of tramlining etc? Seen quite a few posts where people have had problems with other tyres and put these on, problem solved. While my P38 will spend most of its life on roads, I'd like it to be able to take on some mild off roading at some point. Or you know, park in a field without going sideways.
My P38 needs to spend some time parked up, and will likely only get driven once a week or so (unless we actually get some snow down this way for a change...) over the next few months. It has a good battery, and I haven't had any drain issues that I'm aware of. It does have a tracker fitted that draws a tiny bit of power however. It may be that it gets left quite a while, and I don't really want to risk the battery draining. Last time it did (before the new battery, admittedly) I was on holiday, and it went nuts, and burnt out the front door latch motors.
I have no access to mains power, or I'd just connect it up to a CTek charger, leaving me thinking about solar panels. I will be putting a cover over the car to keep it clean, so I was thinking about a panel of some size with magnetic feet lobbed on the roof on top of the cover, cable fed in under the tailgate and eventually plugged into the rear 12v socket (mine is switched, so it can be always on direct 12v).
Looking on eBay, I have many options. I presume I'd want something between 10-25w, and if I'm at the higher end, a charge controller would be a good idea.
Has anyone played with such setups? OB, I recall seeing you say somewhere you have something setup on your motorhome?
Pondering a little lighting modification.
Are the front fog lights driven by a relay or a mosfet in the BECM?
If its by mosfet, does the BECM recognise when a bulb is blown, or does it just remain blissfully ignorant of the condition of the front fogs?
So a couple of times my Bosch P38 has refused to start - not immobiliser related, as it would sometimes start and die, or attempt to fire and fail etc. Until yesterday, it hadn't done it for months. I figured yesterday, it was because it was reallllly low on petrol and on a slope. Forced it to start on gas, and with my foot on the floor, it eventually went, but ran horribly for a little bit. Figured that was normal - cold vapouriser etc. It started fine once I'd moved the car, so I thought nothing of it.
Went to leave work today and..... it wouldn't start. Not on petrol or gas. I leave the Nanocom in the car now, so I plugged it in and initially went to check the immobiliser when I noticed...
For a cold engine... and even an up to temp engine, something looked a bit amiss here. Popped the bonnet and poked the sensor wiring/plug a bit as best I could. Got back in the car, and the reading had dropped to a far more reasonable 28c - car had been sat in the sun, so I went with it. Started straight away. I left the Nanocom plugged in though, and I noticed on my way home the reading would only ever show 59c, usually when at a standstill, or 85.5 when on the move. The gearbox had also resorted to jolting forward when coming to a stop - something it used to do a few months ago but stopped without me noticing. The idle would also jump up 2-300revs when the reading dropped too, which it often does randomly when its damp out.
Back home, A/C compressor unbolted and out of the way, I could actually get at the plug to check it out. Think I found the problem:
Red and green/blue wires both suffering insulation breakdown and shorting out on each other.
And fixed. Cut the plug off, soldered on some short flying leads and then reattached to the loom. I drowned the joints at the plug in resin so any vibration shouldn't cause any breakages etc. Best I could do without a replacement plug from another loom, short of just taping up the broken insulation and hoping for the best.
Coolant temperature faults cleared in the engine and gearbox ECU and all is back to normal, and my slight idle vibration also appears to be gone! Idle hasn't been shooting up either, though we'll see tomorrow when its cold and probably damp again if this was also causing that. Amazing how many problems a little bit of dodgy wiring can cause. I love how the Nanocom description states the fault would light the MIL. Nope. Even unpluged, no MIL - and it does work.
I'm looking for some replacement door speakers - the 6.5" woofers. All four of mine are in various forms of buggered - either seized or torn foam surrounds. When I've had a working (or mostly working) set the sound has been very good and I'm happy with it. I replaced my two front woofers with those from a cheap FLI Comp 6 component set (not using the included crossovers or tweeters) and at low volumes it was good... but at reasonable-high volumes it was rubbish. Lacked any sort of mid-range bass. Comparing one of these FLI units to a working OEM one, the OEM woofer responds far better to a greater range.
Plenty of suggestions when searching online for replacements, but I can't find any that mention speakers I can get in the UK.
Have any of you fitted something I can get locally that work well? I want to avoid buying used OEM items as of the 8 I now have had / still have, only two are in good enough shape to use.
Made a bit of a cock up and have removed the fusebox and enough other bits that it would be a pain to put things back now just to open the tailgate.
Is there a way of pulling the solenoid from within the car to open it? I figure remove the carpeted panel and hopefully it'll be there in front of me, but I can't remember if you can actually get to it now, or if the panel will actually be removable from the inside. Any ideas?
I'm not particularly impressed with the A/C in my P38. It gets cold... but it isn't fantasically cold shall we say.
The evaporator is getting down to 3-5c depending on blower speed, engine speed etc. With the blowers on full, it sits around 8 at idle. The condenser fans are currently running on slow all the time the A/C is on - single pressure switch bypassed as I initially thought it was warming up at idle due to a faulty switch. Seems they rarely come on even in hot climates, but at that point I hadn't noticed it was colder with higher engine/compressor speed.
Have forced the blend motors all the way to cold and even had them unplugged for a bit to see if they were misbehaving, but no difference. I don't believe I have a leak, it has been a bit meh since I replaced the condenser/drier and had it vacced down and filled etc I think 2 months back. The suction back to the compressor is nice and cold too.
I only have our BMWs to compare it to. My E39 on full speed/lowest temp is too cold to endure for long on a day like today - 22c outside. I prefer it chillier in the car, and I sort of expected more from a system as big as the one on the P38.
Went on holiday for 8 days and sadly didn't account for the battery lasting. So im expecting fun with the EKA, which I have for my VIN, but I have a feeling the BECM may have been changed at some point - not entirely sure mind you.
What's the best way for avoiding angering things when it comes to powering up etc? It was locked by the fob before I left which I think screws me over a bit if I have the wrong code.
Key in ignition in position 2 the best way to go?