The older subs did indeed have a single odd sized driver in it - my first P38 had that setup and its currently in the silver one while I decide what to do with the 2x 6.5" version.

I've tried various 6.5" woofers mounted in the box with the standard amp, but I'm just not getting a great result. I think the original units must have been pretty efficient and matched nicely with the standard amplifier - as it did used to be quite noticeable. It could also be down to the head unit I'm using and the way I have it connected. Going with a standard amp would eliminate that concern. Thinking about it, I wonder if that is the case, as the single-driver sub in the car currently sounds about as meh as my various 6.5" experiments.

I want more :) There are plenty of proper 6.5" subwoofer options, but typically they seem hard to lay hands on this side of the pond!

Ordered a set of 4 used AMR6357s the other day, should keep me going for a while.

Found out today, my rears (certainly the drivers side) are likely fine too... they're actually shaking bits in the door. The best bit today was my neighbour and I trying to work out what the hell was vibrating the most in the front doors... until I stuck my head through the window and pressed on the plastic trim strip... suddenly no nasty noises! Ordered some 'Silent Coating' sound deadening stuff (bit like Dynamat) to line the door skins for good measure.

The OEM Harmon stuff can take quite a bit of abuse...

While I wait for those bits to appear, its back to Google for some ideas for the sub. Not sure whether its worth trying to find a pair of proper 6.5" subwoofers (with proper external amp) or build a custom box for a 10" sub that would occupy the same space as the OEM unit and remain hidden etc.

Sorry Spiggy, I've just replied!

Hmm, I wish I'd thought about the repair option before binning the two ruined woofers from the sub unit!

Seeing as foam repair kits look to be a standard available thing, what I might do is just buy a set of used AMR6357s on eBay. I currently have two of the older variant from my breaker that work fine, so I'll have six in total - four can go in the car and that leaves me with two spare to drop in when needed, and I can repair them as / when they fall apart.

Seems utterly pointless trying to read up on good/bad options... too much to factor in and I was happy with the standard units so I might as well go back to them.

Seeing as the sub does need some new woofers on the other hand means I may as well upgrade them, along with a bigger amp where the CD changer is currently wasting space.

I'm looking for some replacement door speakers - the 6.5" woofers. All four of mine are in various forms of buggered - either seized or torn foam surrounds. When I've had a working (or mostly working) set the sound has been very good and I'm happy with it. I replaced my two front woofers with those from a cheap FLI Comp 6 component set (not using the included crossovers or tweeters) and at low volumes it was good... but at reasonable-high volumes it was rubbish. Lacked any sort of mid-range bass. Comparing one of these FLI units to a working OEM one, the OEM woofer responds far better to a greater range.

Plenty of suggestions when searching online for replacements, but I can't find any that mention speakers I can get in the UK.

Have any of you fitted something I can get locally that work well? I want to avoid buying used OEM items as of the 8 I now have had / still have, only two are in good enough shape to use.

Oh yeah I would have done, the replacements from my 96 breaker don't have them though :) the drivers side was also one of Marty's fine replacements, so I should be sorted on the door latch side for quite some time.

People I work with think I'm mad. I probably agree. Today though, all the windows down, comical sport mode engaged, and a bit of heavy foot... I love it. What else at this kind of price can move just about anything, go just about anywhere (you might even get back), and sound that good at the same time?

Centre exhaust section is falling apart... I foresee a bit of pipe replacing it in the very near future.

Ha, sometimes I wish I drank more.

Passenger side went far smoother without that sodding key barrel rod. I don't get why the slightly later latches have an additional metal arm on them that does seemingly nothing other than make it far more difficult to get in/out of the door cavity?

Pointless questioning these things really when it's clear most of the LR designers of the time must have been pissed on the job anyway! I now have four locking doors, non-squeaky Windows and all my front speakers are the same.

Roll on the next problem!

Oh I'm just a complete moron not reading that it's the REAR door that I had left open. Sat here in the car and the Tourette's is in full swing... And nothing is actually wrong. It's hot.

Right. Time for a drink and then on to the passenger door latch and speaker.

Err...

This thing is really trying my patience today. Just put the card back on after pissing about swapping the latches and it all works... But now it's convinced the door is open all the time. Fantastic.

Indeed, I loath taking the door cards off. Been putting off doing the passenger side (dead motor), so I guess this afternoon I know what I'm doing... Conveniently have a pair of good spares, probably wrong connectors but I can work with that.

Thanks for all the ideas, it's now somewhat sorted.

It was having none of it from the word go. EKA was correct and I was able to enter it via the nanocom. But it just wouldn't start, the Bosch ECU had lost sync and the 'learn security code' option kept giving ECU communication error. In the end I put the code into the BECM the other way and it was appeased.

Now my drivers door lock motor refuses to work, and it doesn't trigger the central locking when using the pillar switch. But the key in the door does trigger the locking and activates the alarm. Need to do some reading on that...

I thought you had door ajar, key switch and locked/unlocked state? Seems to me all three should be working.

Thanks for all the ideas, it's now somewhat sorted.

It was having none of it from the word go. EKA was correct and I was able to enter it via the nanocom. But it just wouldn't start, the Bosch ECU had lost sync and the 'learn security code' option kept giving ECU communication error. In the end I put the code into the BECM the other way and it was appeased.

Now my drivers door lock motor refuses to work, and it doesn't trigger the central locking when using the pillar switch. But the key in the door does trigger the locking and activates the alarm. Need to do some reading on that...

I thought you had door ajar, key switch and locked/unlocked state? Seems to me all three should be working.

Hmm, well I'm guessing while its in its lockout mood it won't do much via the nanocom either. Attached battery and its in its 30 minute strop at the moment. Hoping I have the right code and I have new enough becm software to enter via the nanocom. Pretty sure my door latch works but it's still a pain.

One of those hindsight moments looming up I fear... Should have made sure I have the right code.

30 minutes is excessive...

Oh yes, had no intention of leaving the door closed :)

I'm only wondering if it has been changed as I noticed it was unlocked. Not sure if it's because it's a bit of an odd vehicle or it's been played around with. I'll have to hope for the best.

Went on holiday for 8 days and sadly didn't account for the battery lasting. So im expecting fun with the EKA, which I have for my VIN, but I have a feeling the BECM may have been changed at some point - not entirely sure mind you.

What's the best way for avoiding angering things when it comes to powering up etc? It was locked by the fob before I left which I think screws me over a bit if I have the wrong code.

Key in ignition in position 2 the best way to go?

Sorry Spiggy! I hadn't seen the PM, I'll reply now with my email address!

I made mine myself for my parent's car to tow a caravan that needed a fully wired 13 pin socket, two 12v feeds etc. I say made - I re-used the old 7 pin socket loom that plugs in behind the tail light. I then added the additional two 12v feeds with relays, grounds etc for the additional pins that caravans make use of.

If you're only needing the standard trailer lights, you can just re-wire the existing loom into a new socket. You might want to add a reverse light feed from the other side of the car as this is separate - if you have a trailer with reverse lights that is. The other pins for the 12v supplies can remain empty.

That damned car tried to kill me this afternoon!

Well... my own fault really. It's on a slight slope... I went to jack up a front corner to set about removing the airbag as they're relatively new etc. Kinda forgot the handbrake is on the back of the transfer box, not the rear hubs... positioned my axle stand roughly where I wanted it, then lifted it a bit more, and the rear wheel on the same side must have lifted just enough for it to roll forwards on the other side. Proceeded to mangle my trolley jack in slow motion. I just leaned back and observed the carnage as it then landed on the stand.

Chocking the wheels... yeah should have done that. Completely forgot about the hand brake arrangement. Still, pumped up that airbag with a tyre stem valve, some hose and a compressor and retrieved the stand and then the airbag. Off to Machine Mart I go in the near future for a new jack...

Sorry it was an eBay GEMS one.

I'll bring it along to camp if its of interest, if not only to point and laugh at. The adaptive airflow reading went all over the show, and the only way you could keep the engine running was to hold the throttle, and then attempt pulling away going from neutral to drive at way too many revs.... gearbox did not like that.

I have one of the eBay unbranded ones and it is naff.

Not sure about you guys, but I have enough irritating rattles and noises coming from behind bits of trim...