no10chris wrote:

How were the mirrors controlled in the disco ?
Maybe something worth doing as a swap out kit !
I’d certainly be interested..
I park 2 wheels on the pavement as mine get whacked quite often.

In the disco there's a plugin controller and a button to trigger them. However the button is an absolute pain I believe (you have to press it for just the right amount of time, or it triggers twice) and it doesn't do it automatically.

At the moment I have a cable running from each mirror to a box in the glove box, which isn't the neatest addon as a kit!

However, at some point I want to work out how to route cables through the existing cable run from the door and tidy it all up. Once I've done that I'll happily put some together for anyone who's interested :)

I finally got round to writing up my attempts to add a powerfold mirror to my P38: https://tall-paul.co.uk/2018/11/15/p38-part-2-folding-wing-mirrors/

My drivers side door handle appears to have given up the ghost. Won't open from inside or outside. The outside handle has come right out and won't go back in all the way. The inside handle appears fine, but doesn't actually open the door.

So..... what's it likely to be and how can I fix it? I've read a lot about the pins and plastic bits inside the door and how to carefully take them apart......to be honest I'd rather just buy a new latch (just ordered one off ebay for £60) and fit it.

Will a new latch sort it? Are there any failure modes that won't be sorted by just taking the whole latch out and replacing it?

I have a spare raspberry pi with a touchscreen on it and some GPIO pins spare that I can use to rig up a 'proper' control system.... I've been thinking about tying the windows & lights into that anyway so I can (eg) crack the windows remotely when it's hot or whatever, adding the mirror motors shouldn't be too much trouble.

3D printers have dropped loads recently, there's a decently reviewed one on amazon at the moment for around £200. As you say, probably not strong enough for external bits but should be fine for internal stuff like a decent mount for the raspberry pi :)

I keep forgetting to fold / unfold my mirror when I park up, and I'm really lazy so I was wondering about the possibility of hacking together a powerfold mirror for my beloved P38. I know a lot of the P38 / discovery 2 parts are interchangeable and, looking at the disco mirrors on ebay the fitting doesn't look a million miles away. I imagine the electric bit operates in some incredbly weird, esoteric way as per usual though.

Has anyone attempted this before? I've done some googling, but can't find anything online.

I'm also considering shelling out for a 3d printer, so if the fitting isn't quite right I should be able to ring something up to make it fit.

Would I be better just buying a motor and trying to fit it into the current P38 housing?

Brilliant, thanks, I've ordered one of those :)

Since I bought my P38 it's been a bit lazy turning over, never starts on the first go but always kicks in on the second attempt. I've been advised I should try changing the battery, so I want to go for the biggest one I can get (both in AH and CCA). However, all the big reasonably priced batteries seem to have their terminals the other way round to mine (positive is on the left on mine).

So... I can either fork out what seems to be about double the money for the same spec battery with terminals where I want them, or make up some new cables and re-route them so I can fit something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-Exide-Premium-100Ah-900CCA-12v-Type-017-Car-Battery-4-Year-Warranty-EA1000/191792348430?epid=0&hash=item2ca7b6fd0e:g:8BgAAOSwqrtWp18g

Anyone done the new battery cable / re-routing before or is it more trouble than it's worth?

Okay, here's the connectors (sorry for the delay, been a busy couple of weeks!). On the left is the smaller connector coming from the car. On the right, the larger connector is on the seats.

Just out of interest, how cold should the air-con on full blast get? I recently had mine recharged and, although it's noticeably cooler than the ambient air, it's not exactly 'cold' even on the lowest setting.

Hmm, I'll try to grab a picture of the connectors this evening. Cheers everyone!

I don't have the correct connectors for the seat side to replace them with.... and I'm really nervous about fiddling with the seat connector at all, I don't want an airbag going off in my face. It would ruin the seat :D

Hi All,

I recently bought some 'new' front seats for my 2001 P38. They went in a treat, except for the airbag connector. The seats are out of an older car, 98 or 99 I think, and sometime between then and 2001 LR apparently changed the SR connector. The one on the car is smaller than the one on the seats. Both 2 pin yellow connectors, just different sizes. Is there a converter I can get from one to the other or, failing that, could I jam a resistor between the pins on the car side to shut off the SRS warning on my dash? I don't want to fiddle about splicing the wires together as I don't really fancy setting the airbags off.

There's a mm or so of plastic 'lip' round the outside of the screen.... if you're a braver man than me and have a steady hand with a dremel you could probably get rid of that.

Alternatively, the screen and gubbins is all mounted into that plastic frame..... I suspect you could take the frame off entirely and mount the screen directly into the panel.

So, this is my installation, using the head unit linked by blueplasticsoulman

I was a bit over enthusiastic with the dremel, so it needs tidying up a bit round the corners but overall I think it looks okay.

So by Nanocom you mean this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nanocom-Evolution-Range-Rover-P38-EDC-Diagnostics-NCOM06/331158329505

Yeah, at the moment my DSP amp is working fine.... I just replaced the speakers in the sub (the rubber had disintegrated) and it sounds reasonable now. Bit harsh at the top end but good levels of mid / bass.

HI all,

2 weeks in and having lots of fun digging about in the guts of my P38...but now I want to checkout if there's any faults showing on the computery bits. I've been recommended the black box solutions fault mate, but that seems a bit pricey. There's also the icarsoft i930, which says it supports the P38 but I can't find much about it on here or the other forum so.....anyone use one of these? https://www.icarsoft.com/Product/s-332-icarsoft_multi_system_scanner_i930_for_landroverjaguar.html

You can pick them up on amazon for about £115: https://www.amazon.co.uk/iCarsoft-i930-Automotive-Diagnostic-Tool/dp/B00VKQOKA4

Just wondering if it can do everything the fault mate can do, or will I be missing some stuff?

Brilliant, thanks for the help guys.

I've purchased a full interior set (minus the lid for the centre console cubby) off ebay, it's the same colour as mine (lightstone / cream) but a) in better nick b) with the piping on the seats and c) with the headrest seats....good things is, if there's any bits missing out of the new set the current ones should be about the same colour anyway.

As title really, the interior on my baby is a bit tired looking (as expected on a 17 year old car) so I've been eyeing up a new one..... how much of a job is it to take out the seats, remove all the door cards & center console panels then fit new ones? Both sets of seats are the electric memory ones, do I need to disconnect the battery before starting? Is it feasible to get this done in a weekend? Or even a day?

For context, I'm a software developer.....so a wrench isn't my tool of choice, but I'm quite happy following the RAVE CD, just looking for timescales from anyone who's actually done this.

Okie dokie, it seems I have the DSP system then (I have the DSP options on the head unit).....does that mean I can plug the L&R output from the android unit into the input on the existing head unit (the CD changer input) and all will work as it should? Or do I still need something in between them?