Hi Guys
After a long search, contacting every company with any thing close, I have drawn a blank with a replacement part
So had to come up with something
Options,
Buying a M24 version and turning a M22 thread onto it?
Removing remote gear unit and tapping thread out to M24?
After looking at the part and measuring up, decided to use a M8x20 Button-head screw instead of the ball bearing
Welded the hex in and cleaned off so ended up with a smooth dome, filed the thread off, so it would fit inside the spring and not fall out
Reassembled, adjusted, fills like it should, result☺
Still annoys me this part is not available?
Thanks for your help
Whiskey

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kgh0QH0LmDAjaimpUqNzZF8CCIkGkr3n/view?usp=sharing

Think this should work

Can confirm thread size is M22x1.5 pitch

Same as these but with thread above
https://www.rencol.com/products/indexing-plungers-bolts-ball-cam-plungers/threaded-ball-and-spring-plunger-model-06-ip/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl6-E7Z3U9gIVBOrtCh13GA8sEAAYASAAEgJlrvD_BwE

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kgh0QH0LmDAjaimpUqNzZF8CCIkGkr3n/view?usp=sharing

Hi Eveyone, can't figure out how to up load pictures. So put it on the google drive above/

Hi Guys
After some of your wisdom, year 2000, Diesel, Manual,
Driving to work this week, lost 5th and reverse! Give the gear lever a good yank and all gears back but now the gearlever flops around, it is way too loose
Seen a post somewhere about this sometime back, so dismantled the centre console, lots of trim....
After removing the rubber gaiters on the gearstick, i could see the problem; each side of the gearlever there is a spring loaded ball plunger, on the 5th gear & reverse side the ball had fallen out, luckily just lying on the bottom of the remote shift unit, carefully retrieved the ball, phew
Using a small set of pipe grips i managed to unscrew the ball plunger unit until it fell out, good
So you would think just purchase new part, fit and be happy, but i cannot find the part number as the gearbox remote unit was only available as a complete unit, crazy
It is M22 fine or maybe 7/8 UNF i will clarify thread type and about 30mm long with a slot in it
Has anybody got a part number or source for these?
Sorry for waffling
Whiskey

Hi Guys
Removed Viscous Fan a while back, car is much quieter, about 1.5mpg better and there is now access to the front of the engine
I has not been that warm in UK so car temperature reading normal
Now with all this extra time we find our self's with i am trying to utilize the AirCon fans just in case it ever gets warm (global warming etc)
I have a MY2000 RR with has the extra switch in the head which is an on/off switch at 105°C (i believe), is there a lower rating switch? Can this be changed with Nanocom?
Or has anybody any better ideas? Or should i just buy an electric fan Kit?
Thanks
Whiskey

Hi Guys
Probably been discussed a lot but all posts are quite old
What are the current diagnostic tools still available which work with the P38, mine is a diesel?
Thanks
Whiskey

Will Landrover ever learn?
Not surprised at all by the survey results, only really news about the newer models
Most of us here already know about the " problems" but maybe we all buy old land-rovers because we like the adventure, the passion, the enjoyment of fixing our own cars, the bond?
Quick opinion of my car history, usual selection of bangers, then:
Suzuki SJ, rugged, reliable, cheap, uncomfortable, noisy, rusted out
Suzuki Vitara, Nice to drive, 200K on the clock, a bit girly
LR Freelander Petrol, The most expensive car I ever purchased! Nice to drive, great for family, everything seemed quality, one of my favourite cars, reliability an absolute nightmare, head gaskets a service item, clutch hydraulics, drive train, ABS, even the Japanese electrics all rubbish! Sold it on EBAY for scrap! Broke my heart and wallet LR dealers in denial about everything
Nissan X-Trail 2L Petrol, Reliable, comfy, practical, I drove 60K not a hiccup, but made from cheap materials, very boring…..
What to get next?
After looking at rusted out or high mileage Discovery’s and then RR L322s with lots of faults, well I stumbled upon…
RR P38s, instant car match, ticked all the boxes, cheap to buy, cheap to run 34MPG diesel manual, practical, comfy, easy to get parts for and work on nice to drive, slightly complicated suspension and electrics but lots of knowledge out there, fingers crossed on reliability☺
So then, a twenty year car with a few odd quirks and niggly problems is my perfect car am I mad?, maybe it’s just me? But you are reading this so it’s probably you as well!
Will Landrover learn from any of this? Probably not, Landrover are a premium brand (don’t laugh), people like us (?) on forums are enthusiasts
The sad thing is I had the money to purchase a new car, would not even go close to a Landrover dealer, our other car is a VW
Thanks for sticking with this rant
Whiskey

Hi all
With no diagnostic tools to play with....
I changed the green temp sensor and the thermostat
Result - quicker warm up and the temp needle bang in the middle of the gauge
But - still idles at 900 rpm!
Can any body recomend a Land Rover Garage who know what they are doing in Somerset?
Thanks Whiskey

Thanks " no10chris" and "Mukiwa"
Very quick to reply☺
The comment about "hot was because i was stuck in traffic the other day and the temp only just gets into the normal bit but with the summer heat plus sitting in traffic the temp went up to about 3/4 and stayed there, idle still at 900 rpm, never missed a beat
I am in Somerset by the way
Thanks
Whiskey

Hi All
New to this forum, so be kind☺
Took the plunge, bought a P38 Diesel manual (on a whim!)
Well impressed so far, done a few jobs, good car to work on
But, I cannot figure out the idle, when starting from cold idle is 1200rpm, after about a minute settles down to 900rpm
Now it idles great when warm, when hot, and when very hot but at 900rpm !
Rave says 750rpm, at 900rpm its seems to fast
Car runs great, checked for airleaks none, does not appear smokey, disconnected hot start fix no change
What to check next?
Thanks
Whiskey