Hi All.

Got busy with other stuff, pardon the 1-month absence from my own thread...

Backread all of the posts, thanks for all the tips! I did come across the drive cycles when researching error codes I got from an OBD2 scanner. Will have to verse myself some more on them to see if and how I might employ them.

Just as an update, I haven't fitted in the new MAF. I'm still bogged down by the valve block issue, and my 8.1mpg problem is "just" on fuel economy as far as I can tell, that is, it's not debilitating (I don't experience rough starting or idling; acceleration is smooth albeit not as powerful as I think it should be). I'm also still awaiting delivery of the MAF o-rings I ordered -- should get those this week or next.

On the EAS, I've checked and re-checked the airlines with the soapy water test and they seem to be okay. So I'm really suspecting the solenoid/s; the NRVs looked fine to me when I did the rebuild. I've ordered a couple more o-ring rebuild kits and fresh dessicant for the dryer. I should be getting those tomorrow, so Friday looks like rebuild an EAS valve block day. My plan is to rebuild one of my spare blocks -- as mentioned, I have 3: valve block A which was in the car when I bought it in 2014, B which I purchased off eBay because my original drive pack was faulty, and C which I purchased off eBay and was supposedly "pulled from a working vehicle" and came complete with a pump (which works well I must say). After taking the drive pack from B for use with A, the EAS worked well for a short while. I rebuilt B, but on installing it, it proved to be worse than (un-rebuilt) A was -- it would be on bump stops within an hour of parking. So I put A back in. When I acquired C, I put it in lock, stock and barrel. It worked fairly okay, but it was leaky -- my fault, I didn't replace the airline o-rings. Found substitute o-rings, and then got more or less sure that airlines were okay. Car was usable, though car would drop sometimes, and I would get soft faults 1 out of 3 times. Situation deteriorated so I rebuilt A, put it in, and here we are. My plan now is to rebuild C -- and pay extra special attention to the solenoid plungers. With 3 valve blocks I'm hoping I can put together a combination of all good solenoid plungers.

Gilbertd wrote:

Adaptive values should be reset so it can start learning from scratch rather than having to correct from incorrect (if you follow what I mean) but as long as it will run, it'll soon adjust itself anyway.

GeorgeB wrote:

Gilbertd wrote:

Adaptive values should be reset so it can start learning from scratch rather than having to correct from incorrect (if you follow what I mean) but as long as it will run, it'll soon adjust itself anyway.

Problem here is the time that takes, mainly because it's often difficult to get a mix of driving in, especially where I am. As an example, if I fitted a new MAF on a Monday, it'd be likely the following Sunday morning before you get anything but stop-start!

Anyway, Jerwin knows where I live and although he's not local, has a standing offer to hook up to my Nano whenever he needs to, but don't let that stop you giving him the good advice! None of us know everything, 'specially me.

But putting in the new MAF without resetting the MAF shouldn't result in anything debilitating, would it? I mean, if I put it in now, and use it a bit, and reset once I get the chance? (Btw, @GeorgeB, thanks again for the offer, I'll get in touch with you with a week's notice or so.)

And while on the topic, while researching MAFs, I came across an ad for a MAF o-ring, even found a part number for it: NTC3354. For those of you who've changed your MAFs -- did you change this too? It seems my rig doesn't have this (wasn't any when I took out the MAF before).

GeorgeB wrote:

I think my worst was two hours to get from Meralco HQ in Ortigas to beyond La Salle Greenhills school. Distance? 2km! For the Brits, they park three abreast on a four lane road outside the school at kicking out time. There's a major flyover joining just before this as well.

I know that area and yeah that's given me some anguish as well! Authorities were supposedly cracking down some time around the start of the school year (June), but after a couple of months I believe it was business as usual.

A client of mine was supposed to meet me for a beer after his meeting at PNR headquarters in Tutuban. I was in my local (Adriatico in Malate), so about 6km away when, three hours late, he called to say the hell with it, he was going home. Unfortunately, it was just before the Pope's visit when they practiced closing the roads all around my place, but didn't tell anyone!

Ah yes, these traffic planners seem to be of the philosophy that it's better for motorists to not know (and not complain).

Thanks for the welcome, all! Thanks, GeorgeB, for pointing me to this site.

@davew, no I haven't done proper (RR-specific) diagnostics. A friend's generic OBD2 scanner read 2 faults -- one (P0113) supposedly relating to the intake air temp sensor and the other (P1178) supposedly relating to the MAF and/or O2 sensors and/or related stuff. Because of P0113, I checked the IAT sensor and lo and behold, the connector wasn't seated properly. Re P1178, I actually have a new MAF which I haven't fitted yet because I've read that ideally when fitting in a new one, adaptive values must be reset. When I get a spare half hour, I'll maybe try stick in the new MAF just the same and just see if the car starts and if there's anything different (idling?).

@Ferryman, it's nowhere near a common thing here, but my record is I believe 3 hours covering 20km (12.5mi). :-)

@no10chris, thanks for the tip. As a matter of fact, I only ever did the chamfer thing on my previous block swap. I did do the soapy water test, and it seems at least that the air line-block interfaces are good, which is why I'm suspecting the solenoids. Actually, after having sat for a day, with the delay timer removed, the rears also dropped. I'll recheck the air lines when I get the chance this week.

Thanks again!

Hi All. Jerwin here from the Philippines. I was pointed over to this site by another member here. I'm mostly a lurker on the other site, though I've posted a couple of queries there (and provided what little input I could).

I own a 1997 NAS 4.6 P38. Had her since September 2014. Wasn't really much of a car guy prior, and even much less a home/DIY mechanic. But you learn things. After having a couple of things (expensively) done at local independent shops, I started trying stuff out myself. Mostly the easy-ish stuff: I've rebuilt a couple of valve blocks (I have 3 now -- and STILL battling leaks...), replaced the EAS pump, replaced the brake accumulator, bled brakes, swapped height sensors, replaced the fuse box, replaced tailgate cables, and maybe a couple of other minor things. I've also had some stuff done at non-LR specialist auto shops, supervising the mechanics VERY closely, armed with printouts of how-tos I found online -- this way I've had the AC compressor disassembled and the clutch replaced, then the whole AC compressor replaced with a new one, front air springs replaced, as well as rear brake rotors and calipers.

The above stuff I've NEVER done for any other car. The extent of DIY-ing I think I've done with my Honda Civic is replacing a flat and maybe the odd headlamp bulb.

I presently am in the midst of the aforementioned EAS battle (rebuilt one of my valve blocks over the weekend and swapped it in, but front is dropping very quickly with the car off -- I suspect the solenoid plungers, or maybe the quality/fit of the o-rings I got off eBay, or maybe I screwed up (much less likely, I'd like to think)). I also have a new MAF I'm planning to swap in in the hopes of curing my 8.1mpg (!) average -- atrocious I think even for epic Manila traffic (Waze satisfaction index of 1.8 for 'density and severity of traffic' where 10 is the best score). Aside from these, there a couple of rattles and creaks I hope to finally get the chance to find and cure as well.

Looking forward to exploring the forum and maybe posting some, too!

Cheers.