gucci88 wrote:

Hi Jerwin I might be able to recommend someone who can help you. I am also from the Philippines, I reside in Paranaque. PM me your cell phone number and I will contact you. Let me know how I can help. :)

Hey thanks for reaching out and for the offer! As an update, I had the car towed to a Rover specialist garage. Diagnosis is among the suggestions here and from general Internet wisdom: fuel pump. The car's been at the shop for over a week, they would just have started on it by now (shop said they were super busy).

Aside from never having encountered anything similar before, what threw me off was the absence of the CHECK ENGINE light at ignition position 2. Well, as also suggested above, it looks like of all the bulbs that could go bad on the cluster, it seems it's the check engine one. On the Nanocom when trying to test for warning lights on cluster everything works except for MIL.

If anything interesting comes up, I'll update this thread.

@ gucci88 I'll PM you just the same!

I'll check fuel pressure with a tire gauge tomorrow when I go to work. As a matter of fact I haven't checked the inertia switch -- just came across it from your post and some googling earlier today. I'll check to reset it as well for just in case. I did check the relays, but will do so again, as well as Fuse 39.

Thanks for the tips!

Appreciate the replies.

Regarding Nanocom reading 16V -- I did read some time back that this is a bug somewhere that Nano always reports 16V for certain models of P38 -- mine has always read 16V, in good times and in bad. :-) Battery delivery guy measured 12.1V at rest if I recall right, and 10+ while cranking.

Season in these parts is approaching the coolest of the year, so not particularly hot, but that's of course relative... (If I were to hazard a guess I'd say 32ish ºC outside. Also, the car DID start when I first got on, then promptly died a few seconds later.

No unusual warnings on the message center, or warning lights (I've had SRS for a while now). I did want to try ensuring the bulbs were all okay but the function to light things up is in BECM, which my Nanocom was unable to connect to.

I have no access to a fuel pressure gauge at the moment, been asking around with no luck thus far.

No work in recent memory on HT wires or spark plugs, etc. Last work done on the car was 1st week of January when I replaced the high pressure brake hose from the accumulator to the brake master (previous hose burst while I was on the highway, thankfully in epic Manila crawling traffic, on a slight uphill section so I was able to gingerly inch my way with rapidly disappearing brakes from the innermost (island) lane to a gas station on the roadside 5 lanes to my right -- first tow-truck experience).

Thanks for the replies. I was wondering that about lost sync -- whether the car would even crank.

I failed to mention that after the first failed start the other day, the Nanocom showed a multiple/random misfire fault for GEMS (stored faults I don't know from when...), which I cleared. I have a set of new spark plugs I can have put in to replace the present ones -- this was actually my first course of action for the day after no-start, but I couldn't find anyone I could conscript (I don't have tools and have never changed spark plugs, and quite frankly it would be easier and not expensive in these parts to find someone to do it).

Here are the Nanocom readings I was able to take note of from yesterday (a day after no-start):

Fuel flow rate: -0.100
Air flow rate: -0.836
Short term idle (steps): 0
Long term idle: 49
Closed throttle (V): 0.585

Bank 1-
Loop status (on:1): OPEN
Pre cat O2 Sensor (V): 5.09
Post cat O2 Sensor (V): 5.09
Fuel trim long term (%): -5.00
Fuel trim short term (%): 0.00

Bank 2-
Loop status (on:1): OPEN
Pre cat O2 Sensor (V): 5.09
Post cat O2 Sensor (V): 5.09
Fuel trim long term (%): -5.00
Fuel trim short term (%): 0.00

Adaptive FMFR (gm/s): -0.10
Fuel temperature (C): 38.68
Fuel level (V): 1.27
O2 configuration: 33
Pre Cat O2 Sensor Heater: 2.18
Post Cat O2 Sensor Heater: 0.00

Current throttle pos (V): 0.57
Stored throttle pos (V): 0.58
Adaptive air flow (kg/h): -0.83
Current air flow (kg/h): 0.00
Intake air temperature (C): 17
Air flow sensor (V): 0.23

Secondary air status (on/of: 4
Curr. run line position: 69
Long term adaptive Idle: 49
Short term adaptive Idle: 0
Idle speed reference (rpm): 63744
Idle air control valve (%): 148

Engine speed: 0
Gear box retard (%): 17.60
Calculated load value (%): 0.00
Gear box status (D/P): N/P

Coolant temperature (C): 34
Battery (V): 16.00
Road speed (mph): 0
Road speed (kph): 0
Air conditioning request: OFF
Front screen load: OFF

Ignition switch: ON
ABS (V): 0V
Security Learn: NO
Security mobilized: YES
Transfer box (V): 12V
Inj timing advance (deg): 20.00

Hi All.

I decided to start this thread rather than continue this one, hope that's okay.

As in the title. Started and drove okay in the morning the other day. In the afternoon, though, she started once and died after a couple of seconds. Tried to start, crank, but no dice. Battery okay (had a battery delivery service come over -- was diagnosed as okay). Enough fuel in the tank per the gauge, but to be sure we put in an additional 10 liters.

Did some research and checked again this morning. "Check Engine" doesn't light up on ignition position 2. Nanocom has "Security mobilized" at "YES". I tried doing Security Learn, but still no dice (and Check Engine light still doesn't light up). On Nanocom, when trying to dive into anything in the BECM I get "Unable to start communications."

Any ideas on what else I could try? I initially was thinking fuel delivery problems based on research (I'm not well-versed at all in engine mechanics), but that was before I came across the engine ECU-BECM sync thing, which apparently I'm having (no Check Engine light). However, the car does crank -- when there's no sync, does the car crank but not start like mine, or is it supposed to not do anything at all when turning the key?

Anyhow, would appreciate any leads!

Cheers.

P.S. I've been away way too long from these boards but I do still have the car, and time away from here doesn't mean she's been trouble-free, quite the contrary!

Btw, if anyone is interested in the technical bulletin referred to above, let me know. Had a hard time finding the actual bulletin, and found exactly one badly watermarked resource. I had to go through some hoops (well, a friend did haha) to extract the thing from RAVE as a normal PDF.

Thanks, Gilbert.

I have read about the air gap. I'll need to find some garage or shop with a feeler gauge as I don't see them in the usual places here (hardware stores etc.) to purchase myself.

My unit apparently was never upgraded with the new compressor link harness kit (no additional relay RL10 or fuse, no resistor by the left hand side of the radiator, no harness period). They're supposed to be a sort of mandatory install for units until '99 (prior to VIN XA 411503).

Supposedly without the link harness the clutch can receive less than 11.5v thereby causing a weak "pull" which can cause an otherwise working clutch to sort of engage but not mate solidly hence some play and grinding, causing the air gap to increase (more rapidly) over time? My compressor (with clutch) was new in April 2016. This isn't my daily driver, so hopefully the clutch is still in good condition (i.e., air gap still okay).

Hi All. So I know I went ghost for a long while but am back and hoping to be more active...

Anyhow, does anyone know the length of the alternator link lead YSB106340 described in Technical Bulletin Number 0010 CDS. ref L8450bu Issue 2 dated 06.10.99? Instead of spending USD 60 on an official one, I can spend less than a third of that for an alternative here: https://www.wiringproducts.com/pre-made-battery-cables. It seems it's just a straight wire, after all.

For context, I'm debugging an intermittently functioning AC compressor, and I came across the aforementioned bulletin. I have the compressor link harness kit (YMQ104590AA) on order and should be getting it in about a couple of weeks.

Thanks!

Ferryman wrote:

You can save them when removing with care, pry up the inner pin and pull the clip out.
They are like these:

We ended up keeping the plastic wheel well lining in place. The gap was bigger than expected, we had a full view of the bolt and the wires/lines to avoid. Perhaps someone had been in there before and maybe cut the lining for better access.

It was a straightforward job (replacement of shocks and drop links), though it took the shop 2 hours to complete between 2 people (young mechanic plus a younger guy who looked like he was interning). The most difficult part was taking the top bolt off the front left shock (NAS vehicle, tight in that area). Also, the shop's torque wrench used sockets, which wouldn't fit in the space for that side. So that bolt was tightened by feel whereas the others were tightened properly to 92 foot-pounds.

Ferryman wrote:

I should take out the inner plastic wheelwell, just for clarity and makes it easier to stay away from EAS lines.
Tony.

Thanks for the tip. I'll check this later when I swing by my friendly neighborhood generic garage (I guided them through my front airspring replacement and later the rear brake rotors) -- hope they're not busy today. I checked RAVE and it mentions removing "wheel arch liner fixings" -- would these be mostly disposable like trim clips? Because I doubt I'll be able to source replacements here if they become unusable after removal.

OldShep56 wrote:

Sounds like you have been 'flagged', Aero. Bet you get good service from them from now on after the MAF episode. Might I be so bold as to suggest it could be worth mailing them and thanking them for the good service just to keep them 'onside' for the future?

That's an excellent suggestion, and in fact I've just emailed them. :-) Thanks again for the assistance from before!

no10chris wrote:

The shocks are just an unbolt/ bolt on job, same with the drop links, they have a spanner holding point to stop the UJ turning, making removal/installation easy, I would think 1-1.5 hours tops doing yourself

I did read Internet accounts, particularly this one: P38 Shock Replacement, which suggests it might even be easier than changing a tire. I admit I'd prefer to do this myself, especially since I've been successfully DIY-ing more and more. However, the fact that I don't have jack stands, and the bit about using an "18 inch extension" (which I don't have either, by the way) threaded "between the plastic fender well lining and the frame on the forward side of the rear wheel wells," and especially that "care is needed to avoid damaging the EAS wires and tubing" sort of daunt me. Perhaps on a lifter there'd be easier access to the upper shock mount bolt? I think I can properly guide an underchassis mechanic, even a non-LR specialist one, in the process.

OldShep56 wrote:

Where was that from, Aero?

Hello OldShep56, from island4x4 -- after they sorted out the MAF replacement issue, I've purchased from them twice (this being the 2nd time). Funny thing is the 1st order hasn't arrived yet haha. It was composed of small bits, e.g., MAF o-rings + a couple other things, surely would fit in a small parcel/envelope. I requested they send it via Royal Mail instead of the usual UPS, to save on shipping and UPS's penchant for applying all sorts of other fees. It was ordered March 15 and was marked shipped a couple of days later -- that delivery must be somewhere in the Philippine postal system. The order I refer to above which came to a 14.5kg box, was delivered by UPS. Pleasantly surprised at the speed. It's up to me now to find the time to get to a garage to install the shock absorbers and drop links.

@gordonjcp, thanks for the input. In any case, April Fool's joke on me yesterday. Started to work on the EAS again yesterday afternoon. Long story short, turns out the system was okay. Used the car today, no problem. Face palm.

@GeorgeB, thanks, I'll keep that in mind! Yes I was likewise informed and I did read about the 2 different versions. The earlier ones had a bracket of some sort and/or had the connectors at the end of wires as opposed to the latter version where the connector was part of the sensor itself. My '97 uses the latter one. So far so good with the sensors swapped L-R, and transplanted lower legs from old sensors.

Oh and as an aside, the order I mentioned a couple of posts back that I placed on March 29 ~10.30am Manila time, arrived March 31 ~3.30pm. That's from ordering to order preparation and shipping from the UK to my Philippine doorstep. Must be some sort of record.

My P38 decided to be true to the stereotype today and gave me a new problem after I thought I'd licked a long-persistent one. So yesterday I had the best EAS ride I've had in months. Zero soft faults through a combined 4 or so hours of city (traffic) driving. She stayed quite level even after a few hours in outdoor mall parking (whereas before in busy parking lots she'd lose quite a few cm), absolutely no bobbing up and down in standstill traffic, etc. I was happily looking forward to getting my suspension bits tomorrow or Saturday, and installing them early next week.

But the car had other plans. This morning I wake up to her dropped to access height -- or was it bump stops? No matter, I started her up and expected to be up in a few seconds. Nothing. Okay, so the tank was drained somehow. Resigned myself to the usual 7 or so minute wait. But after a minute I decided to check under the hood -- pump wasn't running.

Long story short, indications are the pump is okay -- it would run with a jumpered relay 20. I couldn't find my multimeter and figured if it was the thermal cutoff switch then I'd need to take out the pump anyway, so I went ahead and just put in my other known working pump. Still nothing. The odds of both having duff temp switches when both were last known working within the last few days I'd say is nil so unfortunately it's something worse.

Pressure sensor? But aren't those supposed to be pretty hardy? I'll check tomorrow when I get a new multimeter (if I don't find my old one). Drive pack? Would that be the reason the car -- which after my valve block rebuild the other day was behaving like a model scout -- was on access/bujmp stops this morning (instructions from a faulty drive pack)? Do they just out and die on you from one day to the next? Something else?

Sigh. If it's the drive pack, I'll need to uninstall the valve block again to replace the drive pack with my other (known good, or at least not known bad, from a few days ago). Maybe that'd be quicker and more time (and cost) efficient than waiting to get a new multimeter -- if the pressure sensor is bad, then I'd STILL need to uninstall the valve block anyway. Hmmm.

So I swapped the front height sensors yesterday. This is what I found:

(Excuse my grimy hands.)

That's what my less than year-old front left sensor looked like. The reason it broke is because the sensor wouldn't rotate freely at the 'knee'. I actually noticed this when I first got these sensors new last year, they didn't rotate as much as my old sensors. In fact, the rubber would bend a bit first before rotating. But they had the Dunlop mark on them and they looked like the old ones; and I had no choice besides (sensors shipped from the UK).

Good think I kept my old sensors (my original set plus a set that I purchased used). I swapped out the 'leg', also applied some silicone grease for good measure. The front left (and remember I was getting FL signal incorrect) sensor was actually okay (not broken like the left one above), but since it was of the same vintage and origin as the hard-rotating one, I replaced the leg as well.

With the new old legs, I installed them in the vehicle, swapping left to right. I was hoping to calibrate the heights (after the swap, my FR is 1cm to high and RR 1cm too low; left are w/in the supposed +/- 7mm tolerance), but since Murphy is a good friend, my EAS Unlock Suite suddenly wouldn't connect. Might be my cable. Anyhow, touch wood, after a total of about a couple of hours on the road, no soft faults yet. Just need to sort out the leak on the top of the dryer even after installing new o-rings.

While under, I noticed that one of the bushings in the FR anti roll bar link is cracked. FL bump stop is also ratty (before my latest valve block rebuild, FL was leaking badly and on some drives FL would drop to bump stops). So I ordered new Moog links and a pair of new bump stops for the fronts along with a full set of BOGE shock absorbers (my current ones need replacing).

The EAS and suspension bits have demanded my attention these past weeks. But MAF should be next (already have the new MAF as mentioned; MAF o-ring should arrive any day now).

Summer is upon us in these parts, hope to get the rig reliably roadworthy soon!

Hi GeorgeB, have you found suitable o-rings? If not, you can check out http://www.unigolden.com.ph -- they respond by email (though maybe not immediately). I picked up NBR o-rings from them a few months ago which I planned to use for the air lines in my valve block. I inquired about Viton, which they do carry, but not in the sizes I was looking for. But at least they seemed to know what the different materials are. They're in Caloocan, possibly close to an LRT station.

And now sorry to sort of hijack this thread, but would anyone know the real exact sizes of the EAS air line o-rings? I read somewhere that they were all 2.5mm thick. So o-rings are 4mm ID x 2.5mm, 6mm ID x 2.5mm, 8mm ID x 2.5mm.

So I picked up a bunch of those sizes from the aforementioned place (I emailed prior to make sure they had them). But upon fitting, the ones I got ran large. Both in ID and outer diameter (not sure if thickness was the same as the old ones, didn't have a caliper handy and it was difficult to eyeball). I chalked this one up to experience, don't deal with a local shop that maybe didn't have their inventory correct etc. Or at least bring samples...

However, just a few weeks ago I ordered another bunch of the above sizes (for the same purpose) from theoringstore.com. Check out the site, it does look professional and it seems they know their o-rings. After my valve block rebuild last Friday (using a rebuild kit), I opened the 8mm pack from theoringstore.com to replace the air dryer o-rings (I opened up the dryer to replace the dessicant). Lo and behold, the o-rings ran large! So now I think the local o-ring shop wasn't mistaken/wrong after all.

In my pic below, the 8mm O-Ring Store o-rings are on the top, followed by the "8mm" o-rings from the rebuild kit and the "6mm" ones also from the kit.

So, would anyone have the definitive word on the sizes?

Thanks, gordonjcp. Which plug do you refer to, the plug of the sensor itself, or the C117 connector under the seat?

I'm not discounting that it could be a faulty front left sensor -- entirely possible even if it's maybe just about a year or not even since I replaced the fronts with new ones. One theory of why I've enjoyed some short spells of fault-free driving is that with the valve block (touch wood) now okay, the front left spring is at it's correct height while driving. So the sensor is extended (at least to normal drive height), whereas previously it was always lower (due to leaks causing the FL airspring to almost always be below normal ride height). If a problem developed in the sensor, it could be at that "lower than normal ride height" position. Now that it's seeing some action at normal ride height, it's possible that that region of the potentiometer is more okay than the lower regions where it's always incorrect. I'll need some time and patience, but I hope to swap front height sensors left to right, and see if that solves the FL signal incorrect problem. Recalibrating heights is a bit of a hassle though...

Thanks for this, I need this for both front doors.

Dedicated myself to rebuilding my valve block today; I did my 2nd spare (and 3rd valve block) as planned. This was my 3rd time, tried to be extra careful and methodical, took lots of time. I used the original solenoid plungers for the air spring solenoids, but for the diaphragm, inlet, and exhaust valves, I ended up using the plungers from valve block 'B' (my 1st spare). B's plungers had less wear.

https://s5.postimg.org/vmbn5akdz/IMG_5328.jpg

I also replaced the dessicant in my drier. It was my first time doing so. Although the original dessicant looked okay. It actually looked exactly like the dessicant I was replacing it with. I ran my finger through it and there was some 'dust', but when I did the same with the new dessicant, I got the same thing. In any case, I bought myself some peace of mind.

And the good news is that well, so far (fingers crossed), it seems it worked, for the most part. Soapy water leak test failed only for the top of the drier (I didn't get to test the bottom, though...). Will need to figure that out. Even before today, I've tried putting in new o-rings and I'd still get leaks. Must be abrasions on the hose?

Bad news is I'm STILL getting the soft faults. Drove the car some 5 km after the rebuild. Got a soft fault immediately on starting (and re-starting). Then after about an hour and a half at my 1st destination, upon starting, lo and behold, no fault (I got used to getting the annoying beeping a couple of seconds after start). Drove fault-free about another 5km to destination 2. After an hour or so there, another fault-free 5km, but then, as I was pulling into the car wash, beep beep beep beep beep beep... After the car wash, back to the fault a few seconds after starting.

The EAS Unlock Suite (RSW Solutions) reports "FL signal incorrect" -- which I've been getting for as long as I can remember. Whenever I think I've got things licked, enjoy a few days fault-free, the faults come back with vengeance and the software invariably reports "FL signal incorrect". This is across valve blocks, drive packs, replacement height sensors (used), L-R height sensor swaps, even new airbags and last year, new front height sensors. I tried seating and re-seating connector C117 in the EAS ECU. Still no dice. If the valve block rebuild holds, I'll try swapping the front height sensors left to right (re-calibrating ride height though can be a hassle). Then yet another set of o-rings for the top drier line.

Hoping to beat this once and for all, then move on to the next (MAF replacement)...