Hello again,
strange things happen.
Apparently my broken fob (not the one I'm using from purchase of the car) is probably not from this car, as the physical key is different, as I've found when compared with the other one.
I went to a key maker to make a new one, only key no fob, and strangely enough the car started with the key only. The fob I'm using was outside of the car.
They said that somehow my immobilizer is in "non-working condition", which I cannot grasp what it means.
Is it non-working because the car was locked with a key and not the fob, though the manual says the BeCM immobilizes the engine in both ways?
Is it non-working because the car "lost" the fob when it was in an unlocked state and thus not immobilizing the engine without the fob lock, which again contradicts the written in the manual?
Is it non-working because someone did something to the BeCM during the long life of this specific car, which I was thinking is not possible to remove, the immobilization I mean? (oh, how I love second hand cars and the mysteries unfolding from the previous owners accomplishments)

Questions, questions, questions.

Apparently, I'm going to gift myself a Christmas present with one Nanocom Evolution for the P38, so I can understand what is happening with the car and potentially find/understand other "interventions". It would be useful once I start returning the car to air suspension as it was spring converted just before me buying it.

Despite that, any ideas on ALL these questions are more than welcome.

Cheers!

Hey Gilbertd,
as always, thank you for the prompt reply.
No, I don't have any tints over the windows.
I'll try your suggestion with the wire and meanwhile will see to turn back to life the second fob, once to have a spare and second to be sure that the current fob is not .... defective somehow (which I doubt as I don't see what could be defective).

Hello again,
just checked and the blue cable was connected to that module.
In the same space under the middle of the side window there is a bigger module with few coaxial cables and one of them was disconnected (the closest to the front of the car), but without any change - no sync again.
Nevertheless, the said coaxial cable looks in a very bad condition in its connector, so I'll rework it after a bit and see if there is any change.
I've read somewhere that the amplified signal from the fob is transmitted to the BeCM through a coaxial cable so this might be the case, though it might be misinformation, as I don't remember the source to be trustworthy.

Update:
Had fixed the coaxial cable and no change in anything - radio, remote control (fob). None.

The battery of the fob have been changed before a month, so I suspect it is powerful enough.
Any ideas if there is a way to fix the passive coil on the ignition so the synchronization is automatic?

Thanks a lot for all the details. Will check that tomorrow. Hopefully it is the issue.

Hey Gilbertd,
Thanks for the prompt response.
I think the issue might be closer to the first option from the ones you gave.
Im a new owner of the car from some 3 months and my first impression was that the remote is working only when it is very close to the car. Literally next to the doors.
Can you help please on what is this blue wire that can be disconnected and from where it is disconnected, expectedly?
I’ve both the workshop and owners manuals, so even a page to read is much appreciated.
Unfortunately, I’ve got a second key which is in a plastic bag condition. All things separated. I’ve seen above the ebay contact for repair services and will send a picture asking if it is repairable at all, as shipment to UK will be not cheap (I’m from Bulgaria). Hopefully it can be fixed, as it is either this or new from LandRover …..

Gilbertd wrote:

The flashing red light on the fob when you put the key in the ignition, is caused by the coil around the ignition lock causing the fob to transmit an unlock code. However, the coil is very fragile and often breaks. In which case you need to manually sync the fobs.

With all doors and tailgate closed, put the key in the lock on the drivers door and turn it to lock, hold there and while holding it there, press and hold the lock button on the fob until the red LED flashes faster. Release the button on the fob and turn the key back to centre. Then turn to unlock, hold there, press and hold the unlock button on the fob, etc. Fob should then be synced and you can then do the same for the other one.

Hello all, sorry to steal the thread, but recently had similar case with disconnected battery and I'm, looking for help.
I've left the car unlocked for 2 weeks and after that the battery was dead. Charged it, was starting the engine and as I thought there was just a coincidence of uncharged batter had left the car unlocked for another week. Battery dead again. I've understood that the BeCM might not be going to sleep, thus consuming the battery quickly.
Charged the battery again, but as result I've my fob not remotely locking/unlocking.

The issue:
I've followed the above procedure from Gilbert and the fob was doing exactly what stated. Started blinking and then fast blinking.
However, after locking-pressing-fastblinking, center position, unlocking-pressing-fastblinking, the fob is again not able to lock/unlock remotely.
The engine starts without an issue and I'm using the key for lock/unlock, but would be good to have the fob working again.
Any help and ideas, what might be the case?

P.S.
When i put the key in the ignition there is no blinking and I suppose that the before-mentioned coil is dead.