I'm still having the annoying notchy brake pedal groaning and noisy spring type noise most prominent when starting off then seems to semi behave. Sometimes the brake seems rock hard but after applying a bit more force all is well.
I've noticed that if I apply the brake lightly when going down hill there is a definate rhythm to the pedal feel of lifting, it's as though at every full revolution there is this groan / brake pedal judder, it's a kind of ABS vibration through the pedal
The problem only occurs when driving at less than 10 - 15mph
ABS light not showing when being driven above 5mph
The car is 2001 and I assume the problem isn't the plastic washers in brake modulator issue, as I believe this was a pre 99 problem.
Up to now I've only cleaned the ABS relay contacts (with hindsight I can't see what difference that would have made)
I called at a local Indie who has a P38 and he took her for a blast - he suspects the master cylinder ( God bless him he gave her a full Nanocom as a freebie and didn't charge for the zoom around the village)
Where do I start ?
New fluid and Rave flush ?
Wheels off and check slider pins
Check reluctor rings............................aaarrgghh!
Calipers, pads,discs ?
Any help / suggestions ?

Radio came out of hibernation wait mode this morning- with trepidation I entered the code - all sorted we have music !

Hooray - finally the enter code came alive, joy oh joy a radio again.
Guess who made a foo foo entering the code...doh ! - another long wait !

My son has the TD4 Serengeti - 198000 on the clock and going well, niggly issues with window cables breaking and the odd times the dash imitates a Christmas Tree all lit up, then maybe ten or so minutes later resorts to normal and stays OK until it decides to go loopy again maybe weeks later
I have a TD4 that is a SORNED for when I sell the Bordeaux P38 LPG later on this year due to retiring and needing to economise on fuel.
I've had the Freelander for 3 years and she has never been any trouble, also very good on fuel after the EGR was binned.
Agree with the other posts about fixing / investigating issues before things go £££'s shaped
From what I've gleaned the petrol models are best avoided.

Had to disconnect the battery for a short while and when reconnected the radio went into "Wait" mode.
Has now been in this mode for a few months, have pulled the fuse with ignition on to kill the radio supply loads of times but still no enter code request display
Any short cuts ?
2001/ P38
Hugh

Hi Gents, does anyone know of some good headliner fitting guys / or girls to do my P38 Bordeaux ?
Don't mind travelling too far from Nth Wales and waiting 3-4 hrs
Thanks

55p/pl in Anglesey - Nth Wales.
Generally 1/2 price of petrol @ Texaxo in Bangor....................65p (ish)

Just got back on the forum - my email settings went nuts.
Anyhow, as per your post - It's a good idea to turn on the "motorway switch"
Cruise control now functioning 100 %....................Doh !

Thanks, have already tried a Louis Armstrong down the pipe, nothing happened except wax being ejected from my ears !
All piping around T piece is OK.
Don't need the cruise, but nice to know it's available.

Thanks for the replies, P38, altered gaps as detailed fro post 99MY, seems to be lot better.
Not got the cruise to work, have checked tubing for cracks - all OK.
No light on s/wheel when cruise is pressed - maybe duff relay or fuse - dunno yet..............where is the relay ?

Hi Gents, need some info on why my P38 4.0L (Thor) tends to over run when foot is off the throttle.
For example I can take my foot off accelerator at let's say15mph the old girl just stays there instead of slowing down, same as when foot off going downhill, she doesn't hold the speed.
Pain in th a*** when trying to gauge the slow down for traffic lights and crossings
Tickover is OK on both fuels (LPF and petrol)
Plenum and butterfly valve are clean
Is it a duff TPS ?
If it is the TPS will the electronics self adapt, or is some form of electronic reset required ?
Also, what is the correct setting for the two cables on plenum ?
Cheers

Sussed it....................it's silicon sealant.
No doubt put there by the mechanic when the short motor BCR engine was fitted a few moons ago for the previous owner

Simon, what's RTV ?
Have the new and correct model ( as advised on this forum) Bosch Lambdas and a MAF is on the way - fingers crossed by next Thursday all will be fitted.

Typo error..........should read "one man band"

Just been reading about the new MOT rules, it seems if your EML (Energy Management Light) doesn't illuminate when you switch on the ignition it's a MOT failure.
Doh ! Some RR's don't have EML's, could be fun arguing the case with the tester.
Same applies to the ABS, car needs to be driven - the one mean band tester won't drive it onto the road, nor I suspect will the big boys due to insurance issues.
Brings me on to the "dangerous fail" - from what I've read up to now the car can't be driven anywhere at all after a dangerous fail.
Anywhere means anywhere, so will test stations be stacked up with immoveable cars, or maybe have a scrap dealer hawking round with his low loader waiting for freebies ?
Goodness knows how the LPG converted cars will be assessed.
Anyone out there have good news on this ?

Cheers Simon, all this tech talk is way over my small cranium, but interesting nevertheless.
MPG on gas (currently 13 mpg @ 55p per litre ) the engine runs as sweet as a nut even with the niggly 7 - 900 idle.
So, getting 26mpg real terms with petrol @ £1.23 p / l plus a profit of 13p per litre
On the plus side I've had a really good conversion and picked up valuable info that would have cost me a good few quid from an Indie with his testers and gizmos.
Horrible thought, the Indie may not be as clued up as this forums members and then where would I be ?
With a bit of luck and a fair wind the new lambdas and MAF will improve matters considerably - new plugs as reccd for LPG have been fitted
Decided not to flog my Freelander TD4 just yet, so have had it sorned - ya' never know what's round the corner

Any rough calcs as to what mpg loss could be attributed to a duff pre cat lambda or two ? (Thor engine)
I assume the duff lambda(s) would also affect LPG mileage, is that correct ?

Any chance it could be a rogue plug with a manufacturing defect......................i.e.slightly incorrect mix of whatever metals they are made from.
Just a guess.

Thanks for the heads up, good job I enquired before a Eezibleed was attempted.

Ah, as per the book I don't have.
I was going to use the conventional brake bleed asking a mate to press the brakes when required, or was going to go the auto bleed route via air pressure bottle.
What is the correct / advised procedure ?