Thanks, no warning lamp at all with ABS relay and ABS fuse in situ.

As a footnote: when I removed just the ABS fuse the brakes were excellent, but the ABS and TC lights stayed on..
Why would the TC light come on if I'd taken out the ABS fuse ?

I'm having ABS activation whenever I brake below 15mph, bit of a nuisance when crawling in traffic and having to apply the brakes.
Removed the ABS relay and went for a short drive (not on main road) and the ABS activation / brake judder stopped, so to my mind that ruled out any air in the brake hydraulics.
After a few applications I lost the brakes completely - fair enough.
Replaced relay and drove without ABS fuse, again no ABS or brake judder below 15 mph but at least the brakes didn't go West.
Strangely the ABS compressor activated every second application of the brakes with the ABS fuse removed, whereas with the fuse and relay in it behaves normally - i.e. cuts in after 4 or 5 applications.

I assume the fault is with one of the ABS sensors - your thoughts ?
The 3 amigos don't show under normal driving conditions and the ABS light goes out after a few MPH as it should
2001 - 2001 P38

Thanks for the info.

I'm fairly sure the dessicant in my Bordeaux is the original and even though she pumps up OK I'm thinking some new dessicant and a pump piston seal kit is about due.
Question is : Will removal of the items cause me to have to get a Nanocom guy to reset anything ?

Re the Klieber tyres you bought a few years ago - were they satisfactory ?

My dear LPG Bordeuax started to get a bit sluggish on the battery last week and today it was a no go.
Checked voltage - fine, but current wasn't there and no indications from charging light, quick diagnosis was a duff battery.
Managed a start with a jump lead and another battery, and after a bit of muttering and swearing it was off to Halfrauds with the trade card, and left the engine running.
Delightful young lady at the counter insisted on the Reg no., so as to be sure I got the right battery - God bless her cotton socks.
Battery was hauled from the shelf, all tilled up with discount and they took it to the RR for me.
Got home and started work, making sure to keep 12v on the leads with the spare jump battery.
No problem, I've done this loads of times, hang on this is a tight fit - damned thing is about 1" too long and is on the tilt - more swearing.
I don't believe this - the battery poles are arse about tit - more swearing.
Yanked out the new battery and snapped the plastic pipe from header expansion to rad - more swearing.
Water everywhere and it was damned hot - more swearing.
Emptied my shed and found some 8mm soft copper tube,external bending spring and jubilee clips to make up new ends to the rubbers.
Started to cut the pipe and the hacksaw blade snapped - yes - more swearing
After about an hour I found another junior hacksaw - cut pipe and made the joints, top up with water and off to Halfords.
Drove to Halfords with old battery after jump leading, saw the delightful young lady and told her my woes.
Can you show me the receipt please ?....................Guess what ? - it was at home.
Sorry can't do anything without a receipt...blah blah blah, so off home and did the swearing in the car.
Eventually got the correct battery,fits like a glove and all is well.
I owe the swear box quite a few quid !
Not too sure what the moral of the story is.

I never knew distilled water was corrosive....................we live and learn

Only a query for the gurus - I was reading some info on Google about issues with limescale in hard water areas and how it affects kettles and boilers and was wondering what their thoughts are if this is in engines. No issues with my P38 - nice soft water here in Nth Wales

Just a thought, is there any evidence to link RR / P38 radiators being topped up in "hard water" areas and the subsequent oft reported leaking block issues are caused by limescale restricting water flow and causing high temps ?

So pleased I joined this group when I got my petrol Bordeaux - anyhow I sometimes look at a YouTube page by Brittanica Restorations in Canada.
He had a mother and father of a diesel fuel issue on a Defender, after loads of hassle and false leads the fault / culprit was a leaf in the fuel tank !
Every now and then the pick up pipe sucked it across the orifice - and uurrghhh the Defender struggled big style. He modified the pick up pipe (after removing the leaf) so as it has a T piece. Not saying this is the problen with the RR in question - but weird things happen.

Changed the plugs - hell of a difference - all sorted.
Seems 17k is spark plug lIfespan on LPG.

The issue is intermittent, generally when I give a bit of acceleration. No popping noises, I'll do the plugs and leads and see how it goes.

Thanks, finger crossed it's plugs and leads.

Thanks for the heads up on the plugs being well shot after 17k. luckily enough I have a set of new leads.
Will do the transplant next week

I'm getting a misfire on LPG but OK when I flick over to petrol.
I'm hopeful it's just the plugs struggling on gas but faring OK on the expensive stuff.
I'm assuming the leads are OK as she runs fine on petrol
BPR6ES plugs have done about 17k on gas, new ones coming next week, so will see how it goes.
Maybe the system is due a service - Simon install about 15 months ago, maybe a trip to Sunny Yorkshire is on the cards.
Had a quick spray round with leak detection fluid when engine was running - not a bubble in sight and no pong of gas in the car.

Hi, apparently a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is way better than WD40 and all the other penetrants - that's what I read on a US forum, gotta be worth a try.

Getting the equivalent of 29mpg 4.0l Bordeaux 2001 - Converted last year by Simon
Price in Gaerwen - Anglesey 58 per itre

Still not done the RAVE bleed, very curious as to why the problem doesn't occur when braking in reverse and only at less than 15mph when going forward..........hhmmm

OK will give it a go just flushing as per normal car (I understand the two circuits)
I've read many tales of woe on forums where people have hit problems after doing the full Rave bleed, fingers crossed.
On the bright side I've still got my Sorned Freelander TD4 if things go pear shaped.
Watch this space.

Thanks for the info, will give it a go.
Out of curiosity does the RAVE brake fluid bleeding performance only apply to an empty system or where fluid has been drained ?

Or can you just keep topping up and pumping if you just want to flush new fluid through - a la ordinary cars ?