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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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I'm going to have to get it up on a lift or wait for my mechanic to free his schedule. He mentioned the wiring harness being a possible culprit. I could only check connections and visibly inspect before my vertigo kicked in. So, with that said, I will make sure I mention Marshall's tests and print out these posts for him. I will get back with you when I make some headway. Don't forget me. I really appreciate all of you. Blessings <><

you are correct :) thanks my friend

After re-reading all the posts, I did what was suggested again as per instructions. I apologize for not writing earlier that I checked the level when the Rover was running (that's what everyone does normally). Before starting the dipstick looked similar to yours Gilbertd, after starting and running through the gears (which don't work) and checking it in Nuetral while running - the fluid is between the dots.

Guys, I appreciate the insight and wisdom, but I've driven this truck for almost 7 years with the fluid below the first dot at times and over both dots and never experienced what is happening currnetly. The vehicle has been serviced every 3000 miles and fluids have been checked and topped off monthly. So, with that said, if you're telling me that if the transmission (gearbox) is a little low on fluid it will produce the vehicle not to shift into gear, I'm perplexed at that. A faulty pump, restricted flow in the cooler would not produce what I just did and one could not drive it in limp mode I would think. I'm thinking wiring harness or something electronic, but you guys have more experience than me...

Update: ok, so I checked the trans level before starting and it was over the 2 dots by a half an inch. Started the truck with TCM hooked up and went through all the gears. Reverse works of course, but all the others have no engagement. Shut the truck off and checked the fluid level. It was at the first dot on the dipstich, which tells me the pump is working regardless of no Drive, 2nd or 3rd or o the other side of the shifter too - only Reverse. Filled it to just below the second dot on the dipstick. Keep in mind, when I unplug the TCM under the drivers seat, the truck will drive in 3rd gear (limp mode). No grinding, no chatter, no burnt smell, no noises...before this all happened or currently.

Thanks so much Gilbertd, I will do that right now. Also, I forgot to tell you that the indicator lights are all working on the shifter console, so the XYZ rule out is as you said confirmed. What say you on the Engine Management Electronic Control Unit?

It was changed in June and I checked it 2 weeks ago and it was a little over the dots on the dipstick after I added a half a quart. Also, when ECU is mentioned,to be clear it is the Engine Management Electronic Control Unit behind the battery right?, because obviously there are other ECU's. I tried a swap out of the TCM to no avail. Also, if I can't run through all the gears, would it matter on the dipstick? (yes, I did it neutral and cold).

Thanks guys, yes I had the trans fluid and filter changed and the gearbox oil was checked four months ago. Would getting another matching ECU be worth it or does it have to be programmed and create more problems since nobody around here knows much about LR's? I see that they are relatively inexpensive on EBay.

yes, I checked it along with the connection - hmm... isn't there a sensor inside the valve body that is connected to the shift solenoids?

Transfer Case Motor? what does it do exactly and can it be the culprit?

Man, I wish you guys lived near me... I'll check to the best of my ability on those listed potential solutions. I need a lift so that I can stand and work under the RR. I have a vertigo issue when I lay down a certain way with my head angled (old soccer goalkeeping injury). Anyway, the battery is 12.4 volts stand alone, 13.4-13..7 when truck is running and 14.1 at the alternator. I have Rave too. Thanks again everyone, you're remarkable.

Yeah, I figured as much with the battery cables - also, the issue started before I had the fluid and filter changed, and I see lights by shifter...

Thanks guys, I will check again and look at he connectors thoroughly and check into what you both suggested. For clarity; this scenario started gradually with the truck hesitating from Park into Drive, then it eventually had to roll a few feet before it kicked into gear (Drive). I had to creep at stop signs/lights and if was moving slightly it would shift out fine. Eventually, it was "no go", unless I cleared the computer by removing battery terminals and touching together. Finally, instead of dealing with that nonsense, I wanted to move toward getting it fixed as I waited for my mechanic who has me several weeks out. I appreciate the insight. :)

My 98 P38 4.6 HSE started this past Spring acting up in regards to hesitancy in shifting into gear from Park. I had gotten "gear box fault" messages occassionaly on the screen, but it always ran like a champ. Soon, it began to not react out of Park and I had to roll about 4 feet before it would engage, then eventually keep the truck creeping at intersections in order for it to shift properly and go. If you stopped, you were sunk and then had to use reverse. It made it interesting to say the least to drive through crowded intersections etc. The truck only drives in limp mode (3rd Gear) with the TCM disconnected and with it connected, but with intial hesitancy after the engine rpm's are up at 2000 then it moves slow and is fine in 3rd. I tried a different TCM to no avail. The engine runs smooth and there are no 3 amigos, only 2, the ABS and TC along with sister Check Engine light. Codes captured: P1775, P1777, P0722, P0740. I checked out the wiring to the transmission and the connections. Should I change out the XYZ switch? What do you guys (Experienced and Wise Ones) think? Thanks for your thoughts in advance