Hi All,

I thought I would share some knowledge that Gilbertd and I have accumulated over the last few days.

This is only relevant if you want to keep the original radio. The alternative is to install a new headunit with the relevant connections.

**Notes - Parrot have stopped making handsfree kits due to most cars having them inbuilt. Stock is difficult to come across so I would suggest buying this kit ASAP if you intend on install handsfree into your P38.

Insights:

1. Each speaker in the KH / Alphine system is amped whereas the standard wiring harness and amp box assumes that the speakers need amping and therefore the blue box provides 20w per channel. The result is a very loud huming/ buzzing when switched to the phone mode.

2. To prevent this you need a separate harness from justcarkits.co.uk

   https://www.justcarkits.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000005.pl?WD=p38&PN=RAN06PAR%2Ehtml#SID=126

It says out of stock but when I called him up, he had some in stock.

1. The blue box fitts down the back of the radio. As does the excess wiring.

2. The microphone fits nicely onto the plastic roof light and the wiring can be hidden in the roof lining

3. The usb and line in socket fits well into the glove box

4. The screen fits well on the right hand side of the middle vent, left of the dash board

I am due to receive my new wiring harness and will post an update asap.

Tom

Some added information from the drive home:

1. The stero doesn't turn off
2. There is feedback linked to the revs. Bad earth?
3. When using the Bluetooth or accepting phone call there is a buzzing noise from the speakers like the volume is turned up very high

Hi All,

Just installed a parrot system into the P38. The headunit was working fine before the install and now none of the buttons work + it is stuck on the last radio station and volume setting.

It isn't asking for a code, so I presume I doesn't need one?

Any ideas on what this could be? The parrot has been removed and the headunit remains in the same "locked" situation.

The parrot system seems to be working fine, plays music, answers calls etc.

Any help you be appreciated.

Tom

Thanks again Richard.

Is the V8 expansion tank or Disco 2 TDI a replacement for the 2.5 diesel?

I was talking to a friend about this topic and he mentioned asking whether the disappearing coolant some of you are experiencing could be down to airlocks in the system dissipating?

I am thinking of getting a new coolant tank so it is easier to check my coolant level. Should I go for a Britpart version or OEM? The price difference is nearly double but I hear the OEM is better quality?

Hi All,

I have read a little around the subject and understand that you should top up the car to the Cold Level line and then turn the engine on without the filler cap on.

All the other cars I have had, had a min/max line and a semi opaque coolant tank...the p38 on the other hand doesn't seem to have either. This makes it more difficult to fill to the correct level.

I presume when filling up the coolant its just to c. 1cm below the seam that can we seen by looking inside the tank. Does the filling need to be that accurate or is filling to the seam sufficient? Ie. Is there a room for error when filling?

Thanks,

Tom

Just tried to edit the post so the picture shows up but something doesn't seem to like dropbox for some reason. So the link is https://www.dropbox.com/s/t4kmaq1909smp7t/2020-11-29%2019.45.05.jpg (and that works....).

Hi all,

I have found this item on eBay to replace the leather on my cubby box:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LIGHTSTONE-CONSOLE-CUBBY-BOX-LID-TOP-GRAIN-LEATHER-COVER-FOR-RANGE-ROVER-P38/352238548051?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

The existing cover seems to be attached to the box by glue. I had thought the best way of removing it is with a heat gun but thought I would check on here unless anyone else has any experience or recommendations.

Many thanks,

Tom

Thank you all for your replies and words of encouragement!

To answer a few of the questions:

1. The car drives really well and in a straight line, perhaps then the bushes aren't as bad as stated

2. No exhaust blowing noise that I can hear

3. In terms of the EAS leaking, they said that the front right airbag would try and readjust as if there was a small leak whilst the others held their height. My Nanocom does show some funny reading on the front right so this could well be right

4. The system does pressurise and has been tested. I have been told that one of these head gasket temporary sealing kits such as this:

https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-equipment/head-gasket-and-exhaust-repairs/steel-seal-head-gasket-repair-276185.html

Might this provide a temporary fix whilst I get it booked into the garage? Are there any downsides?

1. Sadly, I bought the car after the HG was completed and therefore don't have any of the details. Apparently, when they pressure tested the system they found exhaust gasses in the system at that time.

2. I bought the RR privately off carandclassic.co.uk. In hindsight, I should have purchased one from a member of this site. You live and learn.

Many thanks, everyone.

Tom

Awesome guide and thank you Richard.

Question - how do you adjust the calibration blue things you mention. Are they knobs or dials of some sort?

Hi All,

Just been to a garage which I won't name and they have quote me £5,000 plus VAT after inspecting my vehicle (2001) with 117,000 on the clock.

1. Radiator top hose leaking
2. Gearbox Cooler Pipe Leaking
3. Front Radius arm bushes worn to excess
4. Passenger side front axle top and bottom swivel ball joints worn to excess
   5.Exhuast down pipe flexi joint rusted and hanging off
5. Rear exhaust hitting chassis
6. Driver rear wheel hub leaking oil
7. Air suspension leaking
8. Front brake new on one side and not on the other. Rear brake carrier changed but not caliper
9. Front airbag badly perished
10. Steering drop arm ball joint worn to excess
11. Heigh sensor out of range
12. Engine has exhaust emissions in cooling system.

My questions are:

1. Is 5k a fair quote? What is the rough cost of parts vs labour?
2. Are any of these serious enough to not drive the car?
3. Should calipers be replaced in pairs?
4. Engine has had head skimmed, could the engine exhaust fumes be related to when the head gasket went? Is there any tests I can do?
5. What priority would people say these need to be done?
6. Which would fail an MOT?

A friend has suggested waiting until Feb when the MOT is due and then addressing those that fail.

Having paid good money for the car in September, I was shocked by this estimate! It is more than the car is worth?

Thanks in advance,

Tom

What sort of voodoo magic allow you to do so?

Great thanks!

How difficult is it to complete a switch over? Is any soldering involved?

Bugger! but thanks for the information. Can the mileage be altered at a dealership with the special LR diagnostics tool?

Hi All,

I have just bought a new cluster as I broke the fuel needle trying to clean it. I saw on Facebook that a chap found that when be plugged a new cluster in it reverted to the mileage on the cluster and not his actual mileage. Is that correct?

Is there any way of changing this? I would have thought the mileage is set by the ECU and not the cluster?

Tom