Hi All,

I have a 2001 2.5 DHSE P38 and have recently noticed that on declaration at about 20 mph downwards there is a wobble/vibration that is felt through the car. It disappears when I provide the engine with some revs.

Could this be a wheel balance or something? Any ideas? I have changed the fan belt which broke and the idler pulleys and belt tensioner arm + pulley. I also changed a wheel but it was fine until the mechanical work was completed.

Regards,

Hi All,

I am aware of the torque setting information in Rave but for example I replaced the fan belt tensioner ram and idler pulleys today. There are no torque setting I could see on Rave for these items.

So what do you all do? Tension to 25nm?

Dear All,

Quick questions for you, on the dirty diesel, what controls the fueling at idle. My understanding is:

MAF is only used when an EGR is in place

MAP sensor determines the air density which in turn determines the fueling - is this at idle for just normal engine running?

Idle Control Valve - the diesel doesn't have one of these

Air temp sensor - as the name states

The reason I ask is that every 60 seconds or so my revs dip on idle and recovers. This doesnt happens when AC is off ( new ac pump has been fitted so not that). I thought it could be a sensor or something. I have a replacement (second hand) 4th injector installed which I hope rules that out as being an issue. Could it be the Crank Position Sensor?

Many thanks

Tom

Hi All,

I keep getting an Alternator fault coming on my dashboard but the car runs fine for the time being. Suspect that the Alternator is on its way out.

Which brand would you recommend as a replacement?

Tom

Two questions:

1. Was this a feature offered when the P38 was in production?

2. If so, what level of tinting was offered? i.e. 80% rear? or 70% rear?

Thanks,

Tom

Hi All,

I was reading a few posts about this and was surprised. I can't imagine much more comfort in a vehicle.

Anyone got experience of both and can enlighten me?

Tom

Here is a question for those in the know - process on Rave but not final torque value.
P38 2.5 diesel
Cylinder head bolts.
Tightening sequence
Stage I tighten to 80 NM ( as per laid down sequence.
Stage 2 Loosen 180 degrees.
Stsge 3 Tighten to 50 NM
STAGE 4 TIGHTEN 90 DEGREES.
STAGE 5 Tighten a further 90 degrees.
STAGE 6 Run engine for 20 minutes till operating temp is reached.
STAGE 7 Let engine cool down.
STAGE 8 Tighten a further 90 degrees.
Now for the question. What is the final torque value on completion of stage 8 ???
Assistance appreciated.

Hi all,

I am looking at getting the following from Autobeam:

1. Reverse light - https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/led-reverse/products/led-382-performance-reverse-unit

2. Numberplate light

3. Brake light

Could anyone provide the correct links for number 2/3?

Tom

Hi All,

I recently bought a 2001 P38 which I am trying to bring up to as good a condition as possible. This will include a full respray and recondition of interior. In addition, I am putting together a list of jobs of items which will have deteriorated with a 19 y/o RR. Rather than wait for them perish or not work, I would replace them now with good quality parts that should then last. I have created the below list, is there anything else you would add?

1. New Air Bags
2. New ball joints
3. Wheel hub seals
4. Discs and pads
5. Thermostat
6. Water pump
7. Viscus Fan
8. Suspension bushes
9. Coolant flush

Thank Tom

Simple question, does your p38 have the driver side front handle missing from the roof?

Tom

Hi All,

I have just bought one of these for my diesel p38. Has anyone else fitted on and what has been there experience?

Allegedly they improve mpg, power, torque, etc. Not sure this is true, so thought I would ask from someone who has already done it.

Hi All,

I have a 2001 P38 DHSE with c. 118,000 miles on the clock.

It has had its Head Gasket done in the last 2 years. However I have noticed that is has been using coolant. The was checking the levels yesterday and noticed no coolant in the Expansion tank! It required c. 800ml to fit the system up. The temp gauge hasn't moved from the middle.

I would like to eliminate a leaking pipe, where are the common places that the M51 engine could leak?

I have checked the oil cap and can't see any white looking mayo.

Many thanks Tom

Hi All,

I thought I would share some knowledge that Gilbertd and I have accumulated over the last few days.

This is only relevant if you want to keep the original radio. The alternative is to install a new headunit with the relevant connections.

**Notes - Parrot have stopped making handsfree kits due to most cars having them inbuilt. Stock is difficult to come across so I would suggest buying this kit ASAP if you intend on install handsfree into your P38.

Insights:

1. Each speaker in the KH / Alphine system is amped whereas the standard wiring harness and amp box assumes that the speakers need amping and therefore the blue box provides 20w per channel. The result is a very loud huming/ buzzing when switched to the phone mode.

2. To prevent this you need a separate harness from justcarkits.co.uk

   https://www.justcarkits.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000005.pl?WD=p38&PN=RAN06PAR%2Ehtml#SID=126

It says out of stock but when I called him up, he had some in stock.

1. The blue box fitts down the back of the radio. As does the excess wiring.

2. The microphone fits nicely onto the plastic roof light and the wiring can be hidden in the roof lining

3. The usb and line in socket fits well into the glove box

4. The screen fits well on the right hand side of the middle vent, left of the dash board

I am due to receive my new wiring harness and will post an update asap.

Tom

Hi All,

Just installed a parrot system into the P38. The headunit was working fine before the install and now none of the buttons work + it is stuck on the last radio station and volume setting.

It isn't asking for a code, so I presume I doesn't need one?

Any ideas on what this could be? The parrot has been removed and the headunit remains in the same "locked" situation.

The parrot system seems to be working fine, plays music, answers calls etc.

Any help you be appreciated.

Tom

Hi All,

I have read a little around the subject and understand that you should top up the car to the Cold Level line and then turn the engine on without the filler cap on.

All the other cars I have had, had a min/max line and a semi opaque coolant tank...the p38 on the other hand doesn't seem to have either. This makes it more difficult to fill to the correct level.

I presume when filling up the coolant its just to c. 1cm below the seam that can we seen by looking inside the tank. Does the filling need to be that accurate or is filling to the seam sufficient? Ie. Is there a room for error when filling?

Thanks,

Tom

Hi all,

I have found this item on eBay to replace the leather on my cubby box:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LIGHTSTONE-CONSOLE-CUBBY-BOX-LID-TOP-GRAIN-LEATHER-COVER-FOR-RANGE-ROVER-P38/352238548051?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

The existing cover seems to be attached to the box by glue. I had thought the best way of removing it is with a heat gun but thought I would check on here unless anyone else has any experience or recommendations.

Many thanks,

Tom

Hi All,

Just been to a garage which I won't name and they have quote me £5,000 plus VAT after inspecting my vehicle (2001) with 117,000 on the clock.

1. Radiator top hose leaking
2. Gearbox Cooler Pipe Leaking
3. Front Radius arm bushes worn to excess
4. Passenger side front axle top and bottom swivel ball joints worn to excess
   5.Exhuast down pipe flexi joint rusted and hanging off
5. Rear exhaust hitting chassis
6. Driver rear wheel hub leaking oil
7. Air suspension leaking
8. Front brake new on one side and not on the other. Rear brake carrier changed but not caliper
9. Front airbag badly perished
10. Steering drop arm ball joint worn to excess
11. Heigh sensor out of range
12. Engine has exhaust emissions in cooling system.

My questions are:

1. Is 5k a fair quote? What is the rough cost of parts vs labour?
2. Are any of these serious enough to not drive the car?
3. Should calipers be replaced in pairs?
4. Engine has had head skimmed, could the engine exhaust fumes be related to when the head gasket went? Is there any tests I can do?
5. What priority would people say these need to be done?
6. Which would fail an MOT?

A friend has suggested waiting until Feb when the MOT is due and then addressing those that fail.

Having paid good money for the car in September, I was shocked by this estimate! It is more than the car is worth?

Thanks in advance,

Tom

Hi All,

I have just bought a new cluster as I broke the fuel needle trying to clean it. I saw on Facebook that a chap found that when be plugged a new cluster in it reverted to the mileage on the cluster and not his actual mileage. Is that correct?

Is there any way of changing this? I would have thought the mileage is set by the ECU and not the cluster?

Tom