Gilbertd wrote:

Can't help you. I know some have done that mod but I don't do diseasel so can't give you any details.

No worries thanks anyway

2.5 diesel

Sorry should have said 2.5 and it has the bad starting problem with having to wait for the fuel pump to reach the front end I was thinking of installing a non return valve tank end but I’m really not sure which pipe is suitable

troyyoung wrote:

Gilbertd wrote:

What engine have you got? If a GEMS V8, one is the feed to the pressure regulator on the fuel rail and the other is the return for excess fuel. I think the diesel is the same but don't know about the Thor as that doesn't have an external pressure regulator. The feed is the one with a filter in it if GEMS.

Looking at the fuel tank I have two fuel pipes coming from it which is the feed and what is the other

I sourced one on EBay pretty pricey but when you gotta have it… suck it up buttercup

Thanks I got the door open but have found the issue to be the cable itself has snapped at the internal pull end does anyone have a link to get one or a second hand one?

My driver door wouldn’t shut earlier it was like the catch wasn’t engaging I messed about with the switch and got it to lock somehow guess what now it won’t unlock is there anyway to get the door open to take the door card off to see what’s going on

I disconnected a little terminal block and the tailgate open on dash has gone.. so that will be ok for me thanks again for your help

Is this on the main lock mechanism or the side catch’s

Yes it is firmly closed even with a screwdriver

Gilbertd wrote:

Does it stay on even if you fully close the latch with a screwdriver?

I replaced a faulty catch driver side and now it works at least it locks and is not loose however the Tailgate open is still on dash is there a reset or a bypass I could do?

Can the latch be adjusted? It looks to me that the driver side latch is not engaging

Dash info says my tailgate is open.. it’s not what’s happening here?

So I bought some secondhand steps for the car only to find there is no bolts included!!! Does anyone have any or knowledge of where to get them

I got a good look at the wires and realised that the unit I bought had been messed with someone had pulled the yellow wire from the block terminal and relocated it so when I plugged it in no contact was being made I relocated the wire to the correct position and yes it all worked perfectly thanks for your help

Gilbertd wrote:

Purple is permanent live, Black is ground, White/Pink is ignition switched live and Red/White is a panel light feed so the backlight comes on when the lights are switched on. The 4 speaker pairs are a colour and a matching colour with a black stripe (which goes to the negative of the speakers), Yellow is left front, Green is left rear, Red is right front and Blue is right rear.

Okay I will have another look tomorrow if time allows but need to say someone got in there before me and replaced the original head unit with an aftermarket and clipped the wires from the junction box! On inspection I can see that there is 4 pairs of speaker wires and then a white wire a red wire a black wire and a purple wire any clue as to which is which?

Hi I’m new on this forum and recently bought a nice old p38… yeah it’s slow..2.5 engine with over sized wheels but I really like it and would like to pick someone’s brain about stereo wiring.. any takers?