I’ve only just run engine to get oil and water levels correct after doing work on it, I know abs light will not go out till I take it for a run, but tc is still lit and traction failure on dash when ign turned off. Is it worth monitoring nanocom to see if voltage to abs sensors changes when driven?. Might be in two weeks as away on Monday.
Thanks Richard

A couple of weeks ago I was reversing out of a parking spot and put osf wheel up a kerb onto a piece of grass. About half a mile later abs and tc lights came on the off over about an hours time, when switching off the warning traction failure showed up on the dash. Nanocom shows no faults, can’t feel any play in any wheel bearings not sure what to try next.

Thanks for the reply, no problem fitting direnza radiator the bolt holes at the btm lined up ok. Whilst fitting new pipes to oil coolers and power steering none of the pipes would fit to the pipe brackets so modifications had to be made, all the pipes were supposed to be oe but all back together now just to top up fluids tomorrow. In the end I fitted the new water pump because I could see grease had started to come from the bearing on the old one so was not a good idea to refit it. Noticed the pipes were off on the solenoid I think on the bulkhead that is to do with the egr valve not sure what them being of would do.

Further to my post in June, I found oil leaks at the swaged connections on both the engine oil cooler and gearbox cooler pipes, and decided to change the coolers and pipes along with the power steering pipes that were rusty. I also purchased a direnza alloy radiator and also a water pump and thermostat, I bought a new thermostat because the vehicle ran very cool according to the gauge and I presumed that the thermostat was stuck open, it was not. The new water pump has a plastic impeller like the old one but the old impeller has 10 blades whereas the new only has 7 and one side of them are open. In the past I’ve fitted a metal impeller water pump to a previous p38 but could not get one this time. I am thinking of fitting the old water pump back as I am not sure about the open sides on new impeller blades, is the pump with 10 blades an uprated one? If such a thing exists any thoughts?.

My experience with the automatic was travelling about 50 mph and barely breathing on the accelerator it would change down and then back up again nearly instantly, that gearbox might have had problems I don’t know. Also the engine just seemed to rev without a proportional increase in speed, I believe changing to the larger torque converter helps with this but I might be wrong.
Are any electrical mods needed to fit the 4hp24 gearbox? I understand it needs the 4hp 22 bell housing and the props may need altering. I am not a fan of the plastic on the radiators after having one top tank split and another one disintegrate so I think I will go for an aluminium rad.

Thanks
It was reading about the 4hp24 gearbox being used behind the 2.5 that caught my attention. I have had problems in the past when towing with other p38 2.5 engined RR, can the gearbox mods be done or do you need to go to a aftermarket supplier eg Ashcroft. Does the Direnza rad improve cooling significantly? does it still have flow down one side and backup the other? I seen an article about fitting rad from one of the v8 RR to get top to btm flow. The 2.5 dse we’ve just bought is very clean and although it needs oil cooler pipes for gearbox and engine changing seems mechanically perfect, that’s probably jinxed it now.

Hello, I’ve just bought a 2.5 dse and have been searching the web for information and came across this site, I am looking for information regarding auto gearbox and cooling upgrades for a p38 that has been chipped.