Removed pipe to egr as suggested certainly made a difference in performance.
Thanks Richard

Chrisp38 wrote:

There's a thin tube, same size as the leak offs, connected to the egr, pull it off and the egr valve can't open to allow oil fumes into the inlet. That's it!.
If the mot is a worry, stuff something up the tube to block it and refit it.

Thanks some wires from the tuning box go to the fuel pump, not happy messing with those as it’s not my vehicle. I removed the pipe to the egr valve and went for a test no difference at first,then it became more responsive.
Richard

JimAHH wrote:

Yeah the diesel is a bit…. Relaxed when it comes to performance.
I have PSI box fitted… same fitting as this video https://youtu.be/K4_mvsCWwmA?si=YPlIFQbOmLTCE4PQ

If it has an EGR valve, get it blanked off. Made a big difference on mine.
You can also look at a performance air filter and a bigger Intercooler should you wish.

Neighbour just bought P38 Diesel, compared to mine it is very sluggish,push the throttle and revs climb to 2500 then it starts to pull.
It has a Rimers tunning box fitted, Nanocom tell me fuel metering out of range. Could this box be causing the problem, how does it connect into the system all the wires are black and I have no paperwork for it.
Thanks Richard

Are the black ecu 100501 and 100500 interchangeable?. I am still getting abs tc lights very intermittently at times usually when pressing brake pedal, but recently it did it on startup with only accelerator pressed.

Thanks Richard

Just reading through my old posts and realised I had this answered before, so I will change it and hope for some improvement.

Thanks Richard

Went out last night to look at OBD socket and connections in left hand footwell, connectors by kick panel are perfectly clean as are OBD connection's, whilst there I decided to look under seat at EAS unit connection. Someone has obviously had problems before because the large connector on EAS unit has a broken clip at one end and it was not pushed fully in.
I secured it with a cable tie and that has fixed the problem, no lights on suspension panel and it goes up and down as it should. What a relief, I will try Nanocom to see if that has cured the connection problem. I don’t know why the connection had come loose must have been vibration.
Next job is to change ABS ecu to see if that sorts my very intermittent fault.
Once again thank you Richard.

When I went in to EAS page no faults shown then the message unable to connect to ECU came up had key in position 2 is that correct?.
Thanks Richard.

I will go and follow your instructions and report back later.
Thanks Richard.

Now the windows are working I can look at my leisure at trying to fix the old one.
EAS has worked perfectly for the 20 months we have owned it, but last week I had parked with the nsf wheel a few inches inches higher than the other 3 to allow my wife to get in and stop the wind from trying to close the door.
When we drove off all four lights on the suspension panel were on and then slow max speed 35 mph on the dash, no reaction when pressing suspension switch. We drove about 7 miles suspension stayed at running height and is still the same now. Can Nanocom diagnose any problems, I have looked on EAS setting but am unsure.
Thanks Richard.

Today is a very good day I realised last night that somewhere I had another switch panel, found it this morning and it works. So now to research the EAS problem , I will most likely be back when I need advice.
Thanks again Richard.

That’s why I need help because I overlook the simple things, I removed fuse 1 to check it so that answers the trip mileage reset. I had the trim in the footwells out last year to do the bypass on the multi connectors when looking for the abs fault I can remember cleaning one Earth on passenger side but I will have a check around.
I think I’m getting too old for all these electrical problems and might just go back to a Land Rover built before electronics took us over.
Thanks for the help, Richard.

I got 5v at voltage reg so all seems fine with that where is the microcontroller? I realised after posting that Marty did the post about the switches. When I turned ign on to check for voltage on the switch panel the trip mileage reset to zero, and the courtesy light at the front started working when door is opened, it had not worked for nearly a year. Also the four lights on the suspension switch are all lit when driving and suspension is at normal ride height.
Not forgetting the ongoing problems with the abs etc for over 12months what’s a few more problems, mot in April so if not sorted by then it will be parked up.
Thanks for the input, Richard.

All switches working fine then nothing at all, although a few weeks before this happened the passenger front did have a hissy fit and went up and down erratically when closing it.
I removed switch panel to try the checks Gilbert’s described, 47 ohms one side with 900 ohms the other, all of them the same. Does that mean I have a small short? but why on all of them?. I have checked continuity between the voltage reg and board socket but no circuit through D1,presumably that's a diode, would a continuity test work?. Will put board back in morning and check for 12v at regulator, cant see any corrosion and no liquid has been spilt on it.
Thanks Richard.

So new brake light switch arrived and after fitting I checked on Nanocom as brake pedal was pressed and got the same indication of switches 1and 2 one open one closed, and the same situation when pressing brake pedal lightly abs and tc on again. I had taken the trim in footwell out to look at white connector for corrosion,as I put trim back in I caught brake pedal underneath with my arm which caused the plunger of the switch to push in, I had previously let brake pedal up slowly as per instructions. I checked movement of switch and it was still touching pedal so decided to do a road test, after initial traction failure warning whe ignition turned on and AB’s light clearing at 5 mph so far no abs tc warning when light pressure applied to brake pedal. Long may it last.

So after more searching on the net, I came across an article on Landyzone about what to do if Nanocom kept showing no faults although a fault is still present, this consisted of scrolling left and right on screen and it revealed a fault. This showed front left sensor electrical failure intermittent 18 times. Then further on the article mentioned a fault with the brake light switch where with the Wabco D the Brake switches would either be both open or both closed when pressing the brake pedal. Well I tried pressing pedal whilst watching the screen and under light pedal pressure I was getting no 1 open and no 2 closed, with firm pressure on pedal the switch worked as it should. It is only under light pedal pressure I kept getting the abs fault, new switch ordered and I will address the electrical failure once I’ve hopefully sorted the first problem. Thanks Richard

Thanks for reply, when I start up the vehicle I wait till tc light goes out before moving off and then abs goes off over5 mph. The abs tc lights do not come on under normal breaking only when light application of the brake pedal occurs. Once the abs tc lights come on and the ignition is turned off the traction failure notice comes on the dashboard. When I start the vehicle again the abs tc lights stay on and the tc light does not go out until the abs goes out at 5 mph and they both go out together.

So after a couple of months using the p38 the fault is still occurring but only when I press the brake pedal and only when pressing the pedal when manoeuvring slowly. Last week I came to the conclusion the accumulator must be at fault and not holding pressure, I changed it yesterday went for a run pumped brake a lot when parking and no abs tc light. Started to drive out of garage today and it’s on again when touching brake pedal whilst manoeuvring, I was going to change abs ecu but didn’t because the problem only occurs when pressing brake pedal lightly. No faults showing on Nanocom, one thing I will say is when abs tc lights come on and traction failure comes up on dash when ign turned off both lights stay on on restart and go off together once speed up to about 5 mph but under normal working tc light goes out once system is up to pressure then abs light goes off at 5 mph like it should. Any more ideas?
Thanks Richard

So after a couple of months using the p38 the fault is still occurring but only when I press the brake pedal and only when pressing the pedal when manoeuvring slowly. Last week I came to the conclusion the accumulator must be at fault and not holding pressure, I changed it yesterday went for a run pumped brake a lot when parking and no abs tc light. Started to drive out of garage today and it’s on again when touching brake pedal whilst manoeuvring, I was going to change abs ecu but didn’t because the problem only occurs when pressing brake pedal lightly. No faults showing on Nanocom, one thing I will say is when abs tc lights come on and traction failure comes up on dash when ign turned off both lights stay on on restart and go off together once speed up to about 5 mph but under normal working tc light goes out once system is up to pressure then abs light goes off at 5 mph like it should. Any more ideas?
Thanks Richard

Well drove about 10 miles yesterday and no issues at all, I am going to keep using it and monitor the situation.
Thanks for all the replies, Richard