Gilbertd wrote:

Whereabouts? I'm just outside Peterborough (Stilton) and my Nanocom has licences for all 3 variants of P38.

West Northants, but more than happy to head over to you. I'll drop you a PM.

romanrob wrote:

W4, where are you based? Chiswick? Put the nano on it before you spend more money on it. if you're SW London I can help

Thanks romanrob - I'm actually in Northamptonshire, the username is my reg plate rather than postcode. Mine is a Thor, so assuming a GEMS Nanocom wouldn't be much use, or is it simply that it works for everything else apart from the engine module?

As a bit of a plot twist, the seller of the green dot receiver has received it back, plugged it into his, and it worked instantly.

Really odd.

I did actually send Marty an email yesterday asking if he had any available, as I bought one from him several years ago for a previous P38. As you say, it was plug and play and solved the issue immediately. An ingenious solution.

Yes, I read he was now full time in NZ, very nice!

I must say the battery drain on my example isn't too bad. At one address which oddly a busy town location, it will happily start after a week, and is down to 11.5v with ignition turned on and accumulator running and turns over fine at freezing temperatures even with 20w50. I can't see the gearbox park light on. At another address which, counterintuitively, is a sleepy village it is dropping down to 11.2v after two days, any longer and it struggles to crank. The BECM wakes up every few minutes. I'm chiefly worried about the potential door switch issues / immobilisation / damage to BECM that being permanently awake could cause.

Hopefully Marty can help with a filter.

Excellent, thanks kindly both for your detailed replies.

That would make perfect sense and does explain the issue. Passive immobilisation is switched on, as the key does flash when put in the ignition and a couple of times I've received the engine disabled message after 30 seconds, although this is quite rare (I assume most of the time the coil on the ignition works fine).

I'm glad to hear this is all expected behaviour, and it's likely that the receiver is faulty. The seller has offered for me to return it and will confirm if it works successfully on his vehicle, just for our interest.

I may consider buying a new replacement instead, if they are still available, but likely a price worth paying for avoiding the hassle that comes with a BECM constantly waking up.

Hi fellow P38 community.

I have an unusual issue with my relatively new to me UK 2000 4.6 Vogue, which I can't find anyone else has experience on this forum or the other inferior ones!

It's my second rodeo with a P38, having previously owned a 1999 DSE, so have good experience with them.

I have just bought a green dot receiver to attempt to prevent the BECM being woken up parked outside.

I removed my existing receiver with the car unlocked but key out of the ignition and connected the green dot receiver, including the aerial (which I usually have disconnected).

Once fitted, I went to start the car and was presented with the classic 'engine disabled press key' message. It doesn't however say 'enter code'.

If I then enter the EKA code, the engine can then be started on the key. However the remote fob would not sync to the car. I tried the older method of putting the key in the door and pressing the button whilst turning etc., but no success.

I then removed the green dot receiver and refitted the existing receiver. 'Engine disabled press key' was again presented, but on entering the EKA code and starting the engine, the remote fob would then unlock and lock the car.

Repeating the process again for the green dot receiver, same problem. No remote fob.

Finally refitted the existing receiver, entered EKA code, engine runs and vehicle locks on remote fob. Leaving it that way for now.

I suppose this presents me with three questions:

1) Does anyone have any suggestions as to why the green dot receiver would not sync the remote fob and yet the existing receiver does? The seller of the 4th gen is genuine, even taking photos of the inside to prove, and is adament it worked on the car he was breaking and even tested it on his own car.

2) Does anyone know why I have to enter the EKA code when swapping between the receivers? Surely it should be plug and play? Do I need a Nanocom to reset RF memory?

3) If the RF receiver is removed entirely, should the car ask for the EKA code every time it is locked/unlocked? If I drive to the shops, lock the car on the key, unlock again 10 minutes later, it wants the EKA code. This doesn't seem right to me.

Thanks in advance!