Aloha,
I have been doing battle with EAS gremlins.
Rt front would randomly go down sometimes in 15 min, sometimes not at all. For days.
Figured it as time to rebuild the valve block, so I got the kit and pulled one from my shelf, and did a clean rebuild.
Same issue. Exactly.
I had already done the soapy water test on the bag, but as I had a good spare, I replaced it.
Found that the old one, when inflated and soaped on the bench was a sieve!
Well, good. Job done. Not!
This one went down as well.
Grabbed my other spare front bag and Tested at 50 PSI for 4 days and no leaks on the bench.
Put it in. Same issue.
Had to go see the folks so did a 2500 mile round trip down south.
Problem persisted, but made the trip just fine.
As these were 14 year old Arnotts Gen II I contacted them and they sent me a pair of gen III bags under warranty as they no
longer make Gen II. They honored the fact that when I bought them in 2010, the warranty was unconditional.
Nice new bags for the front. Billet aluminum instead of plastic for the base. FREE!
Put them on, and guess what? Same issue.
SO, I changed the solenoid valve for the RT front bag for another good spare. Problem solved!
New issue, and the real reason for the post is that when the compressor shuts off, and I stop the engine, I hear a LOT of air hissing from the exhaust silencer. Not from the bags, from the tank. Let it sit overnight and it stayed up, but tank was empty.
Swapped the diaphragm valve and same issue.
Gotta be coming from the diaphragm I guess, but cannot see how it is getting there with the system off. Disc looked fine when I did
the rebuild, and it was not leaking like this prior to my trip
I have been staring at Paul P-38's diagrams for a while and am now cross eyed.
Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
Going to pull out the block again and replace the diaphragm, I guess.

I have not done this for decades and not on a P38, but what do i need to be able to do some brake lines? a flaring tool (which flare type do we need to use?), some cunifer (size?) some ends (thread/size?) a pipe bending spring one of those proper pipe bender things maybe ? All links/ recommendations welcome... thanks in advance

Rob

A quick question on how much members are being charged 'per hour' if/when they require garage services (and from independents)....

Whilst I realise many/most of us are (serious) do-it-yourselfers when it comes to our 'classic' vehicle maintainence I wonder what you have been quoted in garages....

I ask because -of late- whenever I ask one (typically about a 'ramp job' for something fairly basic that may take 20-30 minutes) I am now routinely quoted £150-£200... and even when I supply the parts.

Yes. I also know that my question is one of those of the 'how-long-is-a-piece-of-string' type but I would be interested in any/all observations on this issue !

hi folks,
does anyone have a source for these irritating little gadgets please? Ideally in beige/lightstone.
The ones holding the subwoofer panel in place in the Duchess have given up the ghost and no longer grip. I ordered some at about 3.50 for 5 and then ended up with 10 quid postage! I hope they fit :D

Cheers,
Morat

I'll start with an apology. Two spam posts were on here for almost 24 hours before I saw them and deleted them, but I've been a bit busy.

Some of you will have met Dina, my partner, when we had the grand headlining replacement session at Marty's workshop. Well, she isn't my partner any longer as she finally made an honest man of me yesterday. We are well known in the village, Stilton where the cheese originated, as the couple with the Range Rovers and 3 small hairy dogs (miniature long hair dachshunds). So, the dogs were bought to the venue for photographs and we displayed the his and hers cars outside.

It's almost certainly the first time in my life I've polished 2 cars in one day (in fact, I worked it out, it's only the 4th time mine has been polished in the near 15 years I've owned it).

Both front hubs recently changed due to bearing wear.
ABS sensors didn't make it out alive.
However, Front Right threw a wobbly a few miles later.
Replaced under warranty at no charge.
However, the problem has come back again, again not present for garage test drive.

Nanocom says:
12-05 FRONT RIGHT SENSOR SHORT TO ANOTHER 012 TIMES

We have glove box out and WABCO available for testing of the unit, or multimeter and oscilloscope readings from the plug pins. Though the latter would presumably require some messing about to supply power?

All pins in the unit are shiny and free of green or blue deposits.

Anyone actually tried this yet ? (Happy to continue to use RAVE with Windows 7 but I am sure some on here may have already done this) ?

PS: Just googling it led me to " RAVE: Reproducible Analysis and Visualization of intracranial Electroencephalography ".. Hmmmm....

PPS: BTW I just reached a seminal point with Windows 10 when I had enough of all their forced 'Updates'
and unrequested changes, (including to various other non-M/S Apps that they did not 'lke' either...)

While I'm feeling RangeRovery....
Does anyone have any suggestions for drop in (or as close as possible) replacements for the twin rear subs? Mine now have the full "free floating cone" mod, so they're pretty useless. If there is anything that can be made to fit and will sound OK, I'm all ears (omg no)

Looking for some pointers.

The battery in the car isn't the healthiest, so sometimes can crank a bit slowly. However I've noticed a bit of a pattern forming where it really struggles to start when hot.

For instance today it fired up perfectly happily from cold, drove for an hour and stopped at a park and ride in town. Offloaded the kid, got back in to start it and got one crank and everything dimmed out... Tried again and it started.

On the way home, fired right up from cold, 30mins of traffic to the same park and ride, and again same thing. One or two very slow cranks with every thing dimmed out. This time I tried 3 times and still it wouldn't start. Grabbed my jump box from the boot and attached that and got one slow crank then a few much faster cranks and it fired up.

What I'm not sure is if the engines simply harder to turn when hot, and my battery is just not upto it, or if maybe the starter itself gets unhappy when it's hot?!

I have a Range Rover P38 and I am having trouble with my windscreen constantly fogging up, even when I use the defroster. Any tips or tricks on how to prevent this from happening?",

Hi fellas, this is a strange one, but I hope since we are in a P38RR forum we are not entirely normal and someone can chime in and give me some ideas or support.
I will try to be succint ...
I have an old-timer project, a 280ZX which I sadly came to the conclusion it will never materialized as a restauration during my lifetime.
I've given up and found a brother in arms willing to take it up, but he balked at the cracked windscreen and asked me to deal with it and then get to discuss business.
After long searches, I've sourced in Cardiff (CF32TX) a windscreen (aftermarket, but is new!), a practically unicorn part as you can imagine.

Problem is the windscreen is not packed, and seller is not taking the responsibility to pack it for transport, nor willing to organize shipping. I could pay it online no problem, though.

Now my forwarder (warehouse is in Kent) is willing to solve both issues, and pack the screen to come to me in Bulgaria, but wants an inordinate amount of money for the in-UK transport, like 2GBP per mile (each way). They were honest enough to suggest I look for an alternative locally, and they can deal with the international part.
I have no idea how much a courier pickup would cost, even less if we talk about something bulky and fragile as an automotive windscreen.

I know it might be a shot in the dark, but is there anyone that travels that route and would be willing to take this on, dealing with the seller as well?
Obviously I will compensate adequatelly .... if this is somewhat possible, my forwarder can take care of the rest from Kent onwards.
Is not an urgent or big rush, but if it can happen, the sooner the better, to liberate myself and move on ....

Thanks!!!

I took the Duchess to have nice bath before her MOT and one of the guys cleaning her broke the passenger sidestep. The front outrigger was rusted. What are the options here? I don't really use the sidesteps - but I don't want to leave lots of nasty holes. Are replacement brackets available? Do I need to find someone to fab one up - or can I just rip them all off?
Recommendations please!

Occasionally the old girl seems to "cough" or splutter when under light load in any gear but it's very prevalent in 4th as the entire car shunts back and forth as it misfires.

idles buttery smooth.

Under hard acceleration its fine..

Nanocom has found these faults.

cheers.

Whenever the tie rod or any ball joints are replaced, the alignment will need to be set and that is where you may need to throw yourself at the mercy of a professional.

The steering on the recently bought red car didn't feel right and I decided it felt like it had too much toe out. The self centring was vague and it wouldn't stay in a straight line with hands off the steering, it would pull to one side of the other. Took it into a place I've used before and told them they didn't need to worry about the steering wheel alignment as I could do that myself, it was purely the adjustment of the tie rod that needed doing. Unfortunately they have a newer alignment system than they previously had and a technician who wasn't familiar with the steering box type system on the P38. Firstly he wanted to adjust the alignment on on the rear which, as I pointed out, will be correct unless I have a bent axle. Both wheels are going to be pointing the same way obviously. Once he had got his head around how it worked, he realised what he needed to do. Only to find the adjuster was rusted solid. After struggling with it for almost an hour, he gave up and told me that if I could get it freed off, I could bring it back and he could adjust it.

But, as I was about to leave, an older member of staff suggested an alternative method. If I was to use a laser tape measure and measure the distance between the rear and fronts rims of the front wheels that would tell me how much toe in or out I had. As it happens, I've got one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Measurement-131ft-40M-Rechargeable-Pythagorean/dp/B0D7PYSRQT/ref=sr_1_22_sspa, so tried it. The front wheels should toe out by 0.6 - 1.8mm. Checked it and found they were toeing out by 4mm! Checked my car, which tracks perfectly, and found it appeared that the wheels had neither toe in or out, but the laser tape measure only goes down to a millimetre so I wasn't able to see if they really were parallel or slightly toeing out as they should but it gave me a target to aim for.

Freed off the adjuster (Plus Gas, heat and a 24" pair of Stilsons), took it right out, cleaned up and greased everything then started. By measuring the difference between the rear and front of the front wheels, I got it so the distance was the same, then gave the adjuster a 1/8th turn in to give it a bit of toe out. That gave me a difference of 1mm, smack in the middle of the setting.

A quick road test showed that the steering wheel wasn't central when going straight ahead. Checked the centre marks on the steering box and that wasn't centralised when steering straight ahead so adjusted the drag link. With the steering lock off and the wheel in the position where it was when going straight, as you adjust the drag link, the steering wheel will move so once it is straight, the job should be done. If the steering box is centralised but the wheel isn't, then it needs the steering wheel moving on the column so they are both central.

A proper road test showed that now the wheel is central when going straight ahead, it self centres properly when straightening up and drives in a straight line with hands off the wheel so that's another job ticked off the list.

My PAS lines have sprung a leak, thankfully only the return line, but the supply line doesnt look far behind, its extremely rusty. I've ordered a good used set off ebay as it appears getting new ones is near impossible now (especially for the supply line).

Is there any useful tips or tricks for fitting these? Am i going to have to pull out the fan and rad shroud? Or is it possible to get them out without?

Hiya my old P38 has an LPG conversion, the wiring for the LPG ecu is rather hapdash and strewn all over the shop I was wondering what it would take to remove it and get the original loom back to factory/petrol spec.

It's a multipoint system would it just be tied in with the petrol injector loom or is it more in depth?

cheers.

Hi All, I did mention this topic in another posting, but thought I would flag up as a stand-alone topic.
I'm looking at treating all the underside with Jenolite rust converter and then Lanoguard to finish. I'm not sure if these are available beyond UK shores, but sure there will be similar. I'm really looking for those of you who have used these treatments, pro's & cons please..as against the more regular Waxoyl rust and seal treatment. Thanks, Les.

This is a problem that has been bugging me intermittently for a couple of years. Condensation from evaporator doesn't flow properly down the A/C drain so water can drip or pour into the cabin. I have been under the car I cleared the drain from below & also removed the panel under glove compartment & left side panel to clear the drain from above.

I think that the rubber drain itself is perished & has a small split that allows water out when it's very humid & there is lots of condensation from the evaporator. I haven't been able to find the correct part number or even a good diagram or photo showing the drain itself. There is a drip tray under the evaporator that has a spigot either side that the drain plugs into. Unfortunately it looks to me as though it's a dash out job to replace the drain & I suspect that these are NLA new.

I think that the alternative solution might be to replace the drain with a piece of plastic tube. It might even be possible to run the tube within the drain without removing it. I welcome any other suggestions

Hi all, new member and joined after spending a few frustrating nights trying to figure out what to do.
I have a 2000 model p38, missing the DSP, CD changer and sub in the back. An aftermarket head unit is currently running all the original speakers but, obviously, it doesn't sound the greatest. So, question/s; do I buy an aftermarket dsp and amp and plug it in to the existing left over wiring from the original dsp or, do I just pull the whole lot out and go aftermarket speakers and amp? I also have a zeroflex sub/amp I can use. If it's better to bang in an aftermarket dsp, any recommendations or advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks all.

I was asked to plug the Nanocom into a '99 diesel yesterday. The problem with it was the idle was hunting between 500 and 1200rpm and it had stalled at junctions a couple of times. The owner had checked a few things himself and found that the air filter element had collapsed so he had replaced that and it seemed to cure the problem for a couple of days (although he said it still didn't seem 100%) but now it had come back. He had also removed a tuning box but that had made no difference either. It has had the EGR blanked if that is at all relevant.

Read the fault codes first and there was one for low boost but as it had occurred at 61rpm, that would seem to be an error as there won't be any boost at 61rpm and a low fuel pressure code at 0rpm so that would also seem to be erroneous. Cleared the codes, checked the Turbo-Intercooler- Intake hoses and no sign of any splits or anything that would suggest a leak. Started the engine and there was definitely boost there when revved. So used the Nanocom to check the inputs to the ECU. Most of them meant absolutely nothing to me (knowing naff all about diesel engines) but one stood out. The intake air temperature was showing -38.88 degrees C. On a petrol that would mean the sensor was open circuit, so unplugged the MAF (as it appears that much like the Thor petrol, the temperature sensor is incorporated in the MAF sensor) and gave the plug a squirt of contact cleaner. Interestingly, with it unplugged, it made no difference whatsoever to the running. With it plugged back in, it was still showing -38.88 degrees so we assumed the sensor is dead.

On a petrol, the intake air temperature only has any affect if it exceeds 55 degrees C when it richens the mixture, so assuming the diesel is the same, ignored that for the time being. Wondered if the diesel has the equivalent to the reset adaptive values on the petrol so went into the Utilities and there were two options, Reset ECU to Robust and Reset ECU to Non-Robust. Had no idea what either of these mean, I chose the non-robust option and as soon as I hit the button, the idle dropped to normal speed, it stopped hunting and it ran as sweetly as any oil burner ever can. It seemed that we'd cured it. Switched it off and restarted it a few times and each time it would fire up normally and the idle was perfectly stable. I then recorded the inputs on the Nano in case anyone can see anything obvious but as it was running perfectly at that time I suspect not (but if anyone is interested, it's here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_0mA98hkmP2nPpYaJqkcNJLPQ9VayrNp/view?usp=sharing).

Owner has ordered a replacement MAF sensor but I'm intrigued as looking at the Nanocom documentation when I got home, it appears that the Reset ECU commands should only do anything on a brand new ECU so shouldn't have had any affect yet as soon as I hit the button, the idle stopped hunting and the car then ran perfectly. Anyone got any clues?