Hello, my 4.6 Gems has make a strange noise from the engine bay. Like a thut thut thut then cuts out, restart and all seems ok. Not sure what to do next? Nanacom not show any faults. MOT due on Friday
Only found out about this in the last couple of days, but worth a read for anyone who's passed their test after 1st Jan 1997
Effectively you will automatically get cateorgy BE added to your license at some point in the Autumn, allowing towing of trailers upto 3.5T rather than the previous restrictions. Not exactly the same as those who qualified before, but much closer to it than is currently allowed.
Hi, I'm the newbie here. We have a 97 4.6 HSE in beluga black/ash grey 16" Stratus alloy wheels.
In the 18 months since we bought it, we have had to invest an incredible amount in the technical side of things. Because the workshop was not good, the car still doesn't drive perfectly.
Now I'm trying to do it myself and it's been much better since then.
I look forward to a good exchange here.
She's just failed because the "ABS light comes on when brakes applied" apparently on the rolling road whilst testing the braking force. In all other respects the system works normally, ABS comes on when ignition on, stay illuminated until a few MPH registered and then no sign of it unless braking hard enough on a loose enough surface to initiate brake modulation which of course i can feel. But just realised that the brake pressure pump comes on as soon as I touch the brake pedal, and when pressed hard the ABS light can come on for a second or two whilst the pump is pumping.
So I'm assuming its the pressure vessel that's gone?
The specialist knows everything about a little and nothing about everything else.
Ahh bastard thing.
Seems her life by the sea has done a number on the old girl.
Rear shock mounts are quite crusty, not really accessible unless you're either made of rubber or can lift the body off the chassis.
Just something to check!
Anyone else encountered this "Hy-Carbon" system ?
Typically £150 for the 90-min 'decarb' cycle ......
My air compressor is very old and has been ‘rebuilt’ a number of times but has now become noisy particularly for the last 20 seconds or so before cut off when, I assume, the back pressure is high and working the bearings etc quite hard. I have just rebuilt the valve block and there are no leaks in the system - it will not drop at all if left on any height setting when parked up for days. It rise and falls as expected when running, does not ‘dance’ when at a standstill, levels it self when parked and holds station nicely. NanoCom reports no faults and all height sensor readings appear OK.
However, due to the compressor being noisy I have become aware of when it operates and shuts off in normal driving and when travelling at a constant height i.e. when not having to transit between ‘normal’ and ‘motorway’ modes, the compressor operates regularly (every one or two minutes) for very short periods of time for between 10 & 20 seconds as if it is just topping up a very small drop in tank pressure. Is this normal behaviour/duty cycle?
Ok, here we go again, I've just purchased another P38 to join my fleet of P38s. She is a very late 2001 Vogue. The seller advised the only fault is a mysterious battery drain, 'easy I thought' I know all the answers to this. Ok so she won't go to sleep after locking her and waiting for 2 minutes. It's not the RF receiver as the aerial has been disconnected. It's also not the BECM as I've had this refurbished by a well known P38 specialist. I actually have another identical P38 so have swopped the BECMs, RF receivers and ultrasonic sensor over to rule them all out. I've also replaced both front door locking mechanisms. As you can see I've done the obvious things but she just will not sleep...... What next? The only fault with car is the sunroof is stuck in the closed position due to a seized cable so will not set and shows 'open' on dash. My other P38s sleep fine with sunroof open so again have ruled this out. Where do I go next?
Anyone know the part name/number of the clips that hold the plastic rain gutter trims to the roof..
Anyone had luck with replacing the lock barrel in the door handle?
I had to replace the door handle on mine a while ago due to the rod from the handle to the latch snapping.
unfortunately it requires a different key..
Which is a pain..
My central locking works well, but if it fails for whatever reason I'm goosed!
literally as i put the HEVAC panel back in from its LED conversion the book symbol came on. All the servos work, I can hear them and checked them with my Lynx device. Soon realised neither blower motor is running. Wired 12 volts across their heavy black and red cables and they both turn. Checked relays 6 & 7 both OK. Fuses 43 and 34 both OK. I have two HEVACs both tested and checked. Same error message comes up with either.
Then on the Lynx I saw this;
followed by this.
So I'm assuming the blower controllers have gone, but both at once? Could there be a unifying explanation?
Hoping someone might be willing to help me out.
I would like to send my ECM to the UK to have it Tornado-ed by Mark Adams, but I would like the car to remain mobile so I need another ECM to keep the car running here in SA while my original ECM is travelling. Additionally I also want an ECM with the Lambda/Oxygen sensor control activated for the two upstream sensors, hence my need for a UK ECM.
All this for a 2001 4.6 Thor (Bosch) car.
Would anyone be willing to purchase an ECM for me there in the UK from an appropriate vehicle and then send it on to my freight forwarder in London who will then get it to me here in SA.
Obviously I'm happy to pay for all related expenses, I'm assuming Paypal would be easiest?
I have managed to acquire a GROM BT-3 unit but understand that it needs a RVRN2 cable to work with the Alpine HU of a 2001 Vogue. GROM do not seem to do this cable anymore! Therefore does anyone have the detail of this cable (connector pin to pin info) so I can make one up?
I was nor sure just where to post this, as I believe it needs to be posted EVERYWHERE!
Recently, I was directed by KCR (Thank you!) to a bloke named Simon.....
He has come up with a nifty postage stamp sized board which, when inserted into the Bosch engine ECU will send the mobilisation
code needed for the fueling and ignition to function. There are 3 wires to solder on to the board and one pin lead to clip.
Install takes about 15 min start to finish. He needs to know the mobilisation code as it is pre programmed into the chip.
He can provide the chip preinstalled into an appropriate ECU which just needs to be swapped in. No soldering skills needed.
There is also a jumper to install at the Becm to disallow it having a say as to cranking, which it does indeed
disallow in an alarmed and immobilised state.
With this device installed, I proceeded to annoy the Becm by locking with the fob, and unlocking with the key in the door.
Normally, this will trigger the alarm and immobilisation mode will be activated needing either the EKA or a push of the button on a working fob.
To my utter delight, I found that the engine started just fine and there were no notices on the dash. All systems worked fine as well.
Of note, the dashboard alarm Led does continue to flash as if the alarm is going off. As I have unplugged the sounder,
this is the only indication I have that there is anything going on. I believe sounder can also be disabled in Becm with Nano....
I then locked the car with the key, and waited 2 minutes.....The Becm goes to sleep, so no unwanted battery drain.
I got 2 of these and will install in the Borrego tomorrow.
The peace of mind this will bring to me with regard to wife and friends using the trucks is priceless! No worries about the dreaded
"Engine immobilised, enter EKA or press fob" message to them when far from me and the Nano (Also, always seems to happen on a dark and stormy night) :)
I believe this little board could keep a good number of very nice P-38s out of the Knackers yards!
Especially considering the difficulty / expense involved in getting replacement fobs now.
Oh, yes, I do not work for or with Simon. Please contact him if you have questions. He is now registered on this forum, so should respond.....He is "PsiDOC"
I shall continue to report on performance as needed, but so far? FLAMING BRILLIANT!!!!!
Hi all, can anyone recommend towing mirrors that fit well on a p38?
I have just found out that RRToadhall passed away in April of this year, for those who haven't heard. A freak accident apparently, but no details given.
Also Wammers from Landyzone is no more.
Despite disagreements with them, RIP to both of them.
I've recently purchased two new EAS compressor rings of eBay for circa £20 but they appear to be so tight the pumps struggled to turn. I've got numerous pumps so at first thought it might be a weak motor etc but after swopping parts over have come to the conclusion the rings are just ever so slightly to big. Any recommendations for the best rings out there?
Replacing ABS sensor (front right}.
1 HTF do you pull it out?
2 How do you squeeze both buttons on the plug at the other end?
3 Two lower clips have dissolved. Are there part numbers and are they still available?
I can't find my previous LED light mod thread so I'm posting here, the final outcome. you may remember I modified the courtesy light to create an OEM style internal swithced light without the reading light. Well i went further to create an OEM style single slave light and put one on each side under the shelf supports and wired them into the top lights. The switches are wired as two ways so whichever switch you hit the lights go on or off respectively.
i have no joy in getting photos to work so you can see the pictures here, should be self explanatory.
the LED units are from e-bay and are highly recomended.
I'm really pleased with the end result, massively improves being able to see what you are doing.