The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse


Incredibly oily steering box.

My steering box is pishing oil from the output shaft seal. I've got one from a breaker, which seems in good nick, and I plan on swapping it over in the next day or two.

Any gotchas, that people who have been here before can steer me away from? The section in RAVE seems pretty short and simple, but it says to replace the sealing washers - but I can't find anyone that stocks them. Are they just like copper banjo fitting washers, or what? Do they need replaced every time or is this just a "hey LR mechanic don't skimp on the customer's 80 grand car" thing?

P38 sadly gone, original OE dampers available.

Good evening. I hope this post is allowed. Sadly, my lovely P38 has moved on.

I was seduced by a one owner box standard 3.6 L320 in a lovely condition.

I did replace the original dampers of the P38 which in my opinion were in great order but my wife regarded the suspension as too soft. I removed the original, non-leaking set at about 70 K miles. They were removed from my 2001 model, 4.6.

If anyone is interested before I put them on eBay, please contact me. Thanks.

I need some help, guys! The driveshaft vibration at speed is driving me crazy.

Hi everyone!

I've run into a frustrating issue – there's a significant vibration when driving at speed, and it's clear the driveshaft is the culprit. The vibration is worse around 80-90 km/h. Forum discussions suggest it's probably due to imbalance.

I'm trying to choose the best way to resolve this?

Take it off and balance it with specialized equipment. It might be the best solution, but it's inconvenient and pricey. I've heard it can also be balanced while still on the car. They use special equipment to balance it on a lift without removing it.

Has anyone tried balancing their driveshaft this way? Let me know how it worked for you. Thank you in advance!

Removing tps

Hello, looking to change the tps and managed to remove one screw but the lower one will not budge.
Can I drill it out or is there a better way?

Odd EAS fault

Hmm bloody eas.

Old girl has a peculiar issues in that she will lift the eas really quickly but lowering her back down takes an absolute age around 2 minutes to get from wade mode to access mode also its gone from going "tick tick tick" to making a faint whooshing sound from the valveblock exhaust

It started happening after i plugged in the EAS unlock cable a few weeks ago it had "no idle" but seemed to have done something.

Now with the wires soldered on the A post I have Comms but there are no logged faults, but it is still is acting odd.

I was thinking possibly the driver pack has possibly got an issues, or the exhaust solenoid?

any help appreciated..


Nanocom not talking to EAS ECU

"Error unable to start communications with ECU"

Seems my Nano is having issues, any pointers gents, footwell connectors come to mind for some reason?

thanks argh!!

Tyre Size weirdness

My P38 has been wearing some 19" L320 wheels for the past 5 years, shod with 255/50r19 Michelin Pilot Sport 4's. Obviously a full "on road" high performance tyre. but not so suited for off road use.

I've decided to change things up a bit, so i've bought a set of 18" L322 "twin spoke" wheels (https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachments/img_1080-medium-jpg.43591/) and was on the hunt for some all terrains. I also wanted to go up a little to a 30" tyre rather than a 29". 255/60r18 would have been the original fitment on these wheels on the L322, and measures in at 30", so i decided on that size.

I decided after much searching, on a set of Continental Cross Contact LX2's, in 255/60r18. Mostly because i managed to find a used set for sensible money (bit over £200 for a pair with 7.5mm and a pair with 6mm). I initially wanted something a little more aggressive like the Michelin Latitude Cross, but i couldnt find any. I was also looking at the likes of the Grabber AT3 and Toyo Open Country AT's but i felt on balance it was probably still going to see a lot of road miles. And i also couldnt find any of those used either. On reflection, this tyre size is a bit niche/rare. I would probably have been better going with 265/60r18.

Anyway thats the back story. The tyres got fitted to the wheels midweek and i set about fitting them today. When i removed the first wheel from the car something immediately struck me, the tread on the Continentals was much narrower than the Michelins.

So much so, I went and got a tape measure...

The 255/50r19 Michelin measured about 240mm across the tread,
The 255/60r18 Continental measured about 210mm.

For reference i then measured a couple other set of tyres that happened to be nearby:

255/45r20 measured about 240mm (and these are also Continentals, but a road tyre)
235/55r19 measured about 210mm (winters)
235/40r18 measured about 210mm (Goodyear Eagle F1's)

So the continentals are certainly the odd one out here, despite claiming to be a "255" they're measuring up like a ~235 tyre.

Anyone else seen anything like this? Anyone fancy sticking a tape over their 255's to get some more data points here?

Not really sure what i can do about it at his point ofcourse, short of spending even more money buying some other tyres. But i'm intrigued to see if this is a particular quirk of these Continentals or maybe an "all terrain" thing?

Gearbox oil cooler fan switch.

Hi, I hope that this may be a last question for a while !!!

About two weeks ago the gearbox oil cooler fan started running as soon as the ignition switch is turned on. So I got under the car to see what may be the problem, and I found two cylindrical type sensors screwed onto one of the supply pipes. But, despite hours searching, I have not been able to find any information about replacement sensors.

I have found a couple of different part numbers, STC3338, and NSC101060, or FF012060, but these appear to be flat sensors which screw straight to the side of something, perhaps the gearbox. There is a few bits online about about the gearbox oil cooler fan running all the time but nothing about the parts needed to solve the problem.

I appreciate that no many people here have 2.5 DHSE's but perhaps someone may have found a solution to the problem. I am including a picture, from somewhere online, which shows the same set-up as my car uses, and it can be seen that there are two round cannister type items on one of the pipes. One seems to be to switch on a dashboard warning light, and the second seems to be the fan switch. I think that it is this switch that is stuck closed, keeping the fan on permanently.
enter image description here


Stupid customs requirements.

Well, I have today found the result of Brexit, and its' real implications.

I bought a set of second-hand, original ABS wheel sensors [Wabco], and a rear centre seat belt buckle, the small one in the middle of the rear seat, with a second-hand value of £50, which included the DPD carriage fee.

I received an email from DPD to say that the Irish customs have pulled the package of 4 sensors and the seat belt buckle, for inspection. Now they are looking for certificates of origin, and all this stuff - full itemised commercial invoice which clearly states country of origin, commodity codes and description of goods. The commercial Invoice must be on the sender’s company letterhead.

Being as the parts are from a P38 breaker the chances of my guy having all this nonsense at hand is probably nil. So, a first delivery never turned up, now I need to supply this documentation, and I expect to find that the delivery has been sent back to the UK. And this is a direct result of Brexit.

But I suppose that I can just pay out for new new Wabco, instead !!! Or buy the airfare to the nearest airport and collect them. Either option doesn't make sense.

It does, now, make me understand why people convert to springs. Before the nonsense that is Brexit it wasn't a big deal to get second-hand stuff sent from the UK, now it is becoming a no-no.

Oh well, at least this will push me to make a decision about my P38. I don't think that I can justify buying new parts every time something goes wrong, and, anyway, not all parts are available new. So if I can't buy used parts without all the documentation then the vehicle could, possibly, be no longer repairable.


EAS height level measurements.

Hi, I have spent two hours reading through the various threads etc., and RAVE, hoping to find the default EAS height figures, as per the factory. I have come across all sorts of different figures, such as the sizes for cutting the measuring/setting rods, or the height of the wheel arch, measured from either the ground upwards or from the "centre" of the wheel cap. But I can't find a straight forward set of figures as set by LR.

I have a slight issue with the rear drivers side [RHD car] remaining high, as in the highest height, after the car has been left sitting for a week or so. It is possible that it is the drive causing this, but I don't think so. I have just fitted two new rear Dunlop airbags as the originals were looking a bit tatty, but the levels are still acting in the same way as before.

I need to check the figures with Nanocomm, but I would like to know what the default figures are, just in case the programmed figures have been changed for some reason.

I noticed, today, that when I went to a shop, with a very level carpark, that the rear of the car remained sitting at full height for some reason. After pressing the switch, on the dashboard, a few times the car then reacted to the selected heights, but back on the road, for some reason, the car lifted up to full height before dropping back down as the speed went over 30 mph.

Any advice would, as always, be much appreciated.


Buying a nanocom

Odd question but is it best to pujrchase from blacksolutions website or some of the vendors on ebay selling them?



Both hubs and ABS sensors have been recently replaced.
After both visits, the Front/Right ABS sensor came up as faulty/shorted after a few days (replaced under warranty after the first time).
Traction failure normally comes on first in 90 degree right hand turns.
ABS comes on a few miles later.

Both my Nanocom and my specialist's Logic say front right sensor has failed.

But two in a row, always right-hand side? Has anyone seen that before?

Black Tail Pipes

Rangie has a new MoT - yay - and no advisories - double yay.

However, over the past year or so the insides of the tail pipes have become a bit black, not sooty as such but definitely blacker than usual. NanoCom tells me the O2 sensors are working and all the fuel trims are ‘bang on’. The MoT report shows the emissions are also ‘bang on’. No smell of fuel at all from the exhaust. Engine runs beautifully.

So why are the tail pipes black? Could this possibly be the swap over to E10 fuel in some way?

P38 EAS mystery

Another EAS chestnut, I'm afraid. I have searched on many forums, and copied and printed much advice, to form my own EAS rescue pack, but I am still stymied.

Whilst driving, the car would almost always (except for the MOT journey!) jump to extended height. The next morning, when switching on, the ECU would recognise the error, and lower to normal height, only for the blasted thing to jump up within a mile. I suspected the height sensors.

I have renewed all four height sensors, and nanocom reports height values within three bits side to side - so OK so far.
The compressor will charge the reservoir to 10 bar within several minutes, and hold that for up to a fortnight, until I switch on, when all pressure is lost.
I have very carefully replaced all the seals in the valve block, and soldered all the wiring in the passenger footwell.
I have replaced both the ECU and the driver pack with used "known working" parts, with no change in behaviour.
I cannot think of anything else to check.

Nanocom reports no faults, and appears to read correctly all data from the ECU
However, when reading the valve settings, it shows both rear valves open, and fronts closed initially - OK - but both inlet and exhaust valves open - surely wrong?
What can this mean, and what might be the remedy? I would be very grateful for an insight since I have tried everything I can think of.

Torque Converter ID

I've listed a spare torque converter on eBay. It came off the back of a 4.6 Thor engine I bought from the local breakers yard. Being from a 4.6 Thor I assumed it was a "medium" unit and listed it as such
Someone's messaged saying it's actually a large one, which ofcourse doesn't make a lot of sense, but I guess these are old cars and things get swapped about.

Can anyone take a look at the pic and tell which size it is? Is there a measurement I can take to confirm? I didn't see any part number on it.


what is this

saw this today in local town and it still used looking at it I would say its used as a camper

LPG Viability?

My car has LPG, and it all works, however i'm beginning to question its continued worth, especially as its probably wanting some TLC.

The car doesnt run as well on the LPG as it does on petrol, feels a bit flat. Ofcourse thats typically offset by a huge cost saving that makes it worthwhile. Theres also a few drivability issues at high throttle demand.

However as LPG becomes harder to find, (the last few times i've gone to the local place they've been out of stock), i've also noticed the cost saving deminishing to the point of questionability...

My local place is now charging £1 a litre for LPG, vs £1.45 for petrol. However the car uses more fuel on LPG, which cuts into the saving. I recon it uses at least 25% more LPG than petrol. Plus its a bit of a detour to the next town over to buy it, and its the only place around that has it any more.

I've always reconned a tank of LPG at around 85L gets me 200-220miles or so. That works out around 12mpg and at £1 costs about 37p a mile

if we assume 15mpg on petrol at £1.45 thats 43p a mile

It used to be that LPG was half the price of petrol and meant the running costs were down in the 20p range, but 37 vs 43 seems barely worth it?

How are others finding it?

EAS Compressor stalling. Where to look first?

The EAS Compressor on the wife's 99 was reported to be making a lot of noise, and indeed it was....
So, I swapped in a rebuilt pump, and thought problem solved.
New pump does the same thing.
It seems like the pressure switch is not operating and the compressor is jumping around on its mounts and struggling.
Tried sending it to access, then back to extended height, and compressor seemed happier. For a few minutes.
One of the valves is ticking constantly once it gets to height. Wife took mine, and nano is in it, so just guessing right now.
I have a spare valve body, so will swap it out. See if the issue changes.

New Bump Stops

While I am waiting for help with a snapped exhaust manifold stud, I have been going round attending to niggles that have !been there for a while. Having put new shocks on, I decided to tackle the NS bump stops, the front one is shredded and the rear one, although still reasonable otherwise, recently fell off and is now missing the lip that keeps it in place.
The lip on the new (Blue wrapper!) one refuses to go over the 'button' at the base of the housing. Any tips? Rave isn't much help, I have chipped of th rust and tried a little maintenance spray as lube, ... so far progress amounts to one bloody finger!

L322 - P38 wheel spigot rings

The newly acquired P38 is fitted with a set of 19" L322 wheels and, from the shuddering at speed when I drove it home, I strongly suspected that no spigot rings had been fitted. These are needed to keep the wheels central on the hub as the wheel nuts are not conical and the hub centre on the P38 is slightly smaller than that on an L322. I've bought the required rings but if anyone else has fitted them, do the rings fit on the hub centre or in the wheels?