The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse


Rear Axle brake hoses

Since i need front hoses, i'm revisiting my thoughts on the rear axle hoses.

My car has an early pipe routing, with the pipes above the axle. But the axle is a later one without the bracket, so its all a bit bodged currently.

I'm struggling to figure out what exactly the short pipe and jump hose does on the later setup?

If the caliper pipe goes from the axle to the chassis, why cant the hard line from the front just go directly into that flexi?

Brake weirdness

Went to the builders yard this morning and when i got there i could smell cooking brakes. Got out for a look and passenger front wheel was smoking hot.

Got it home driving slower and using the brakes as little as possible, and i've pulled the corner apart hoping it was just a stuck slider, except i cant actually see anything wrong.

sliders are free, pads werent even stuck in the carriers. I lifted the pistons boots and the pistons are shiney clean. I then got a G clamp, and if i push one piston in, the other pops out and vice versa, very little force needed, suggesting the pistons themselves are free. Now heres where it gets really odd...

I put a block of wood in the caliper leaving about 10mm of space, jumped in and pressed the brake pedal, in an attempt to push the pistons out some more, so i could check for rust, except nothing happened. The space remained at 10mm. I turned the ignition on and charged up the brake pump and properly heaved on the pedal... same thing.

Got a chunk of metal across both pistons and managed to force them both back 5mm or so with the g clamp. Reinstalled the caliper on the car. Since i pushed the pistons back theres now a 5mm gap between the caliper and pads. Stomped on the pedal as hard as i could inside the car, but the gap didnt close.

So what on earth is going on here!?!

One minute they're stuck on, and now they;re not getting any pressure at all?

Flex Plate

as if the "To Do" List wouldn´t be long enought, I had vibrations for some months and loud noises when starting.
Looks like the Flex Plate has shifted / broken / whatever:
It seems to have "eaten" its way into the flywheel a bit.
Just change the flex plate and leave the flywheel?
I read that it could be done with "just" shifting the Transmission backwards.
Any hints/thoughts?
Thanks and greetings,

Exhaust Advice Please!

Hi folks, I'm now learning more about exhausts....

The Duchess has been very noisy on startup, and quite rattly - then calming down. It turned out the the exhaust clamp upstream of the centre box is loose, rusted and not clamping properly.

So, I've been sticking my head underneath and reckon that I can get the exhaust system down (seems to be a total of three rubber hangers) but how would I replace the clamp? The pipes are all in good nick, and I can cut off the old clamp - but how would I get a new one over the flared ends so I could tighten it up?

I'm wondering if there is such a thing as a clamp that you can attach to the two ends of the pipe, jubilee clip style - but has a way of tightening the two halves together. I can't find one.

What would a proper mechanic do in this situation?

Thank you!!

Electric seat motors.

Hi, I would like to ask members about the front seat electric motors in the P38. I have had the great fortune to pick up a new complete elecric seat base and I want to use it to, firstly, change the leather seat cover from my existing front seat to the new seat, and secondly, fit that complete new base in place of the existing seat base.

My main question is - is there any setting up of the motors when you take them out and refit them ? Or, because I have a complete seat base, on its' runners, is it just a case of bolting it in, refitting the switch panel on the side, and away I go ?

Best regards, Pierre3.

Broken Transmission Parts?

Does anyone happen to have a scrap transfer case or gearbox knocking around they'd be willing to part with?

Recommended Specialists/Mechanics

Appreciate this is possibly against the DIY ethos of the site, but a combination of lack of facilities, ULEZ and logistics means that I could do with finding a well-priced, no-nonsense mechanic to get some P38 things sorted (before I cut my losses!).

Among the multitude of the usual P38 problems, I’d like to find someone to do the front ball joints with a proper press tool, ABS sensors/further investigation and, possibly, blend motors. Car is in Yorkshire, I can travel if it’s financially worthwhile. Any recommendations?

Dead 02 sensors causing slight misfire?

Hiya gents i've put the old 38 back together and she runs, no leaks

However it has a slight misfire at idle, she's showing faults for both 02 sensors, would I be correct in assuming that they are most likely to blame for the misfire?


I'm looking at new sensors is there a specific type I need to get for the thor v8?

cheers all


Removing wheel hub,

Hiya Gents having an issue with removing the hub,

I'm doing the balljoints and I've taken out the 4 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle but the bloody thing won't shift..

Is it a case of just beating it off with a hammer or am i missing a trick??


That's what I call service.

A couple of years ago I tried to replace the original Boge shocks on my car only to find that fronts were unavailable. I bought a pair of Boge for the rear but, working on the principle they were cheap and not difficult to change, took a gamble on a pair of Britpart on the front. Up until recently they have been OK but must have done around 60k miles (if not more) by now and I noticed a slight 'shimmy' through the steering when crossing joins in the tarmac. Initially thought it was the lower rubbers which looked pretty soggy so replaced those. That improved things but it still wasn't right. Checked the LH front shock and found no damping at all for the first half millimetre or so of movement. New front shocks required. Googled the part number (STC3672) and found Rimmers could supply genuine (which I'm assuming would be Boge) at over £200 each, Island 4x4 and LRDirect could supply multiple different makes but not Boge but a company I had never used before called British Parts UK in Stevenage (www.britishparts.co.uk) showed Boge OE as being in stock. Not only did they claim to have them but they were listed at £28 each, so I ordered a pair.

That was Wednesday evening and DPD delivered a parcel on Friday afternoon. However, when I opened it, I found it contained a pair of Chinese made, Pro branded, front shocks. So I emailed them saying I ordered Boge OE but had been sent the Pro units. Timed at 07.11 on Saturday I received an email apologising, saying that it must have been a mistake in the warehouse and it would be dealt with on Monday. Around 10am on Monday I get a phone call saying they would arrange for DPD to collect the Pro units later that day and they would send me what I had ordered. DPD man duly turns up and collects the pro units on Monday afternoon and today (Tuesday) DPD delivered a box containing a pair of genuine Boge front shocks.

With service like that I have a feeling I may be using British Parts UK again (and it would take me about the same time to drive to them as it does to Rimmers so may well go there if I need something in a hurry too).

Edited to add that their website no longer lists the Boge units, just 'quality aftermarket' which I suspect will be the Pro units......

Icy water flooding the passenger footwell (RHD)

I have had the odd leak locked by a the A/C drain in the past but in the current hot weather here in the UK I have now got icy water pouring into the passenger footwell. A drive of a few hours in 28C heat totally soaked a large bath towel & left a lot of water on to be soaked up by the carpet. I cleared the A/C drains from underneath but it's not helped at all so suspect that there is something at the other end that is blocked or dislodged. Where do I start dismantling to get at wherever it is that this condensate from the A/C is forming?

Nanocom evolution

Hi guys, it’s come to the time where my p38 is going up for sale, ( 4 large dogs, I’ve bought a van ) so bits and bobs are also going up for grabs, I have a EAS kicker and a nanocom evo, the nano is open to EDC and MOTRONIC, if anyone is interested make me an offer for either before I stick them on eBay, I’ll have lots of parts to list, but I’ll give options here first as I sort bits out, drop me a message with offers

l 322 wiring diagram

i am looking for the wiring diagram for the steering wheel adjustor on the l 322, 2002 model, that's the electronic adjustor that moves the wheel in and out , up and down . i have checked the fuses, that's no 20 and 23 all good and i can hear the ecu clicking when i turn on the key on also the seat still moves as they are associated together with the steering wheel adjustment . if anyone has any info on this it would be very appreciated, thanks in advance .


I've got a set coming for my v8.

looking online there Seems there is some confusion on the final torque I've read 65 lb/ft and others say 85 lb/ft final torque?


Non-Sunroof Models

Was there a particular spec of car that did NOT have a sunroof? Was it simply an option?

From what i can see it seems to be low spec cars that were missing it? Would be good to confirm though.

Heater matrix RHD

Hello, need to change the heater matrix. Is this possible without a full strip out of the dash as I am moving in a few weeks time.


Hello all. Hope I can find someone to guide me though this problem. I have read lots of issues like this but none has given me a north.
I was driving normally, never an issue or error codes for anything. When standing at a traffic light, when came the green light pushed the accelerator normally (not hard) and heard a pop, not too loud but very noticeable and then no more drive… only reverse.

We have done many many tests and everything looks good with transmission, TCM, valve body, switch selector, solenoids, wire harness, torque converter, transfer box… but the car Wont go in drive.
We have fully rebuilt the transmission changing all clutches, seals, gaskets and performed a very detailed revision of every gear inside the transmission using magnifiers. Nothing is broken or slightly damaged than could have caused the pop. We tested the wire harness performing continuity and impedance and everything is fine… tested from TCM down to selector switch and also from TCM to solenoids and speed sensor.

Also tested all solenoids and speed sensor for ohms reading and everything fine as it should be. ( assembly of everything we followed lots of manuals available out there)
There is absolutely no error codes and the display shows the gear selected on the dash display, P, N, R, D, 3, 2 so we can assume selector switch is working as it is supposed to do, but still we tested signals coming from it and reaching the TCM inside end at the circuit board…and are all right.
Transfer box is switching 2WD to 4WD correctly… tested only in reverse as no Drive right now.
oil level is where it should be, brand new. Torque converter should be fine as we do have normal reverse. When in reverse, no noises coming from torque converter.
Tested the pump using a manometer and reads fine both on main line and torque converter port… 150 psi continuous in torque converter port no matter the gear selected.
Main line port shows 150 psi when in drive or any other forward gear and 0 for reverse, N and P
Solenoids were taken out and bench tested applying 12 vac and verifying flow direction… all MV1 MV2 and MV3 good. MV5 ( regulator) was bench tested using a PWM generator to see its movement used to regulate pressure… everything fine.
Opened TCM and tested for correct energization of valves depending on gear selected and TCM is sending the right signals to all of the valves as it should.
Speed sensor is working right, measured for continuity with an external magnet and works as it should.
I am done of ideas… even replacing the full transmission I am not sure if this will solve the problem because we are pretty sure that transmission is in great shape as every part of it has been fully chalked and all rebuild kit has been used. Solenoids ok, valve body is fine as well… cannot think on replacing the TCM as it looks to be working as it is supposed to… the last thing we would plan to do is to bench test the transmission, applying pressure to the main line and activating the solenoids to see if we have movement when in drive…of course applying movement to input transmission main shaft ( not using the torque converter) with an electric motor variable speed… but that’s lots of work.
One another reason not to change transmission: my car is in South America where I cannot find a transmission for this car or any other like BMW that uses this 4HP24… and shipping a rebuilt one from overseas costs more than the car itself.
Anyone could think just go ahead and junk the car… but I am car collector and want this car working to add it to my collection. Also Range Rover lover for years.

This forum is my last hope to see what are we missing

Thanks to any one for shooting me any idea.

Steering lock "locking"

Dear All,
Apologies, i've searched for steering lock/barrel/ignition/column but found nothing. My steering lock is proving increasingly troublesome to release, get into car, key in ignition, turn key, won't turn, won't unlock steering, have to wiggle and keep turning the key and then randomly it will release and I can drive off. The lock barrel is now an obselete VIN specific part. So any ideas, is it possible to remove/disable the steering lock but keep the ignition key?
Neither can I find much in the way of schematics or photos?

Clockspring fitting, weird case

I got something that keeps me puzzled, and ask for some input.

Backstory: when I started to take apart the interior, I had in a couple of occasions to move the car without airbag, sometimes in a rush fitting a steering wheel as it was. When I finally started to put together the interior, I've noticed that turning the wheel there would be a "crunching" noise coming from the steering wheel, and I assumed I've ruined the clockspring that was not aligned to the wheel itself.
As the car runs fine, I left it for other time ...

Fast forward one year and a half to today :)) and finally I got sorted another clockspring to replace, I took the shrouds off, and so on, fit the wheel and turn slight, and start to hear the same 'crunch' ... took wheel off and I realize comparing with photos online that my wheel is missing that little button that is supposed to "push" the contact with unlocks the spring - I do not know how to explain in other words.
I will go now down to the garage to see if my other spare wheel has it, otherwise I will need to look for it.
This is okay, but ->

But I got another problem, which keeps me puzzled: if I fit the clockspring in its tabs in the steering column, and then I put it in the position that is "locked" to accept the steering wheel, is moved to one side like 30 degrees, in the sense the steering would be out of center
If I push it manually, then is misaligned and I fear the moment the wheel goes in, will break it again.
When I stopped the car this was not an issue, and I have not taken it to align or any messing with the steering linkages.
What could have happen? What am I doing wrong?
I do not mind having the steering "out of center" and take the car to align, as long as I can get rid of the crunching clockspring, but what do you guys think could have happened?
Thanks for bearing with me ...

Testing a heated front screen.

Back story... the hs worked great up until the last couple of frosts earlier this year but then stopped. Decided to investigate this the other day. Both relays clicked so off with the plenum (much quicker to say then do!) And a poke with a dmm showed healthy voltage at both white connectors (disconnected) using both the battery and the ground stud for the hs. The ground stud looked a tad rusty though so I went to remove the nut and the stud sheared off. I'm hoping (bear with me here, I'm keen but green with leccy stuff!) that the stud was maybe causing high resistance and therefore the becm wasn't seeing the necessary load so it wouldn't work the hs. The ground stud is the only common connection under the plenum for both sides of the hs and as they both stopped working at the same time that sounds plausible to me.
That ground stud is now all repaired and finally to my question.
How can I test that the screen is now working? I have nano and a dmm and enthusiasm but that's it.
Googling about has led me to believe that a clamp meter may be useful?