Morning guys. Got in the car today and tried to start it up, and nothing. So I did all the normal diagnosis. Battery, load, resistance fuses and relays. All work, so started motor it is!
Did the old hammer it with a lump of iron bar that I found lurking behind the shed and she started up.
Shut her off again and then started again. No the starter squeals a little just on start then stops as it should.
No is it a new starter motor or is there a way of opening them up and replacing the brushes and restoring it?
Also if it is a new starter I’ve been offered a Powerlite one for cheap from a friend brand new. Are these worth it? I’ve read good things about them on the classics and TVRs.
By cheap I mean the same price as a good aftermarket one from Island (he wants £120 for it)
The LCD on my message centre/odometer display isn't illuminating. I've changed the bulbs that provide back lighting but still nothing. The messages/mileage is displaying as I can barely make it out at night with lights on.
Any suggestions as to what the underlying problem is?
The LTD on my message centre/odometer display isn't illuminating. I've changed the bulbs that provide back lighting but still nothing. The messages/mileage is displaying as I can barely make it out at night with lights on.
Any suggestions as to what the underlying problem is?
... but does anyone know what they are? The wiring to the sensors on mine seems a bit crusty and has broken right at the plug on both sides. I've bodged them back together but I'm considering just making new cables up and taking them straight back to the ECU. But first, I need to know what kind of plug I'm buying!
Some of you will have met him at the summer camp, others will know him from his knowledgable posts on here and on the dark side. I PM'd those that knew him a few weeks ago as he had emailed me to say that he had been diagnosed with Leukaemia, was in hospital on chemotherapy but expected to be up and about in around 10 weeks. I emailed him a few days ago asking how things were going and received the following email a few minutes ago:
I'm sorry but Mark died today - he contracted a horrid fungal chest infection and spent 12 days sedated in intensive care but his lungs deteriorated over night and they had to take him off the ventilator today. PLease can you let all his landrover friend and P38ers know
He was a huge charcter and will be very much missed.
RIP mate, you'll be missed.
So, long story short - I've just had my transmission reconditioned whilst I was away working last week. Picked the RR up today, and drove it home.
Seems to behave ok, and definitely has more poke than before, so there was some noticeable wear in the old one!
But, the kicker... just as I was getting near to home (was about 50miles to get back) when I slowed down, I would get a fairly hard change and a 'clunk' when shifting down between 3rd - 2nd. I could replicate it on both auto driving, and bringing the selector manually down the gears and forcing it to change. Sometimes it's a bit of an low clunk - other times fairly solid sounding, and even a lurch.
Going up the gears seems to be fairly well ok, and it's only on the 3 - 2 downshift the issue occurs.
I've called the garage about it and they've said to drive it for a couple of days to see if it gets better, but otherwise I'm going to have to take it back, which is a pain around work and travels - so not going to get the chance to take it back until about 11th July! I also was supposed to be driving up to Liverpool for work at the start of next week, but not this has happened I'm going to have to look at alternative means, as I don't want to possibly damage the box at all!
Any thoughts of simple things I can check that might have a bearing on it? I'm going to double check fluid level tomorrow, and also silly things like prop shaft UJ's and bolts etc.
Slightly annoying given the cost of getting it done - but hey ho...
I'm getting slightly bored of playing "Chase the perennial coolant leak" - whenever one leak is plugged another one pops up.
I'm looking at just replacing all of the hoses in big go and hoping that stops it, at least temporarily!
Looking online, almost all of the hoses seem to be Britpart and a few have Genuine Land Rover options available (at a not insignificant markup).
Are hoses one of the things that are generally OK to get from Britpart?
So after the last couple of years of doing a bit of a meet up of P38 owners from various parts of the country (I think Morat still holds the record for coming from Yorkshire!) I haven't really had much time with work, and the rest of life going a bit crazy this year to put much thought into any of it.
As it was mentioned in one of the other threads, I figured I'd start a fresh thread for anyone to register their interest in it possibly happening again this year..
Last year was a group buy on headlinings, and re-trimming a number of them over the weekend - followed by Sloth giving me a hand swapping the modulator block on my RR long into the night!
I'm not sure what people would want to get done this year - I'm getting my RR back from transmission garage tomorrow, as I've just had the autobox pulled out and reconditioned, so there isn't really much major on the list of things that I want to do on mine. If I get around to it, then I might start looking at getting a winch, and then I can finally fit the factory winch tray that's been sitting in the garage for the last 3 odd years! But I'm also happy to help out others with things they want looking at - electrical is my speciality! Though I have tools for doing ball joints, pressing out/in radius arm bushes and the likes aswell.
If you're interested, then leave a reply below - with anything that you would like to try and get done... and also when suits. I'm only really free the weekend of 28th/29th July and 4th/5th August at the moment - though could possibly go 18th/19th August too.
Did a write up on it on LPGforum here's the link
17yrs old with a LR sized hole in his life he had to fill
My first car is a 2002 Mini One
but i always fancied a Land rover as a after college side project, with the new emission law that is probably going to be enforced i looked solely at Petrol LR's and RR's
Originally i was looking for a Disco 1 v8 but the styling and rot didn't quite do it for me so i skipped them and started looking at Series landies and older defenders.
However the prices were way too steep.
I kept trawling ebay and It occurred to me how Cheap certain Range Rover were.
My eye was trained on a few
1995 4.0 SE
1998 4.6 HSE
Or 2001 Vogue.
Ofter looking at all of the above i settled on the Vogue.
It seemed like the perfect vehicle.
upon inspection the carpets were soaking. Heater Matrix O-rings probably..
quite a few scratches including a massive Dent in the rear quarter.
125k high or low mileage?
Big battery drain.
She hadn't run for months
and tbh i am/was questioning my sanity
Plenty to get along with
Thanks For Having me..
A few questions
Finally some Pic's he he he
Bad ones First eh?
The above is a picture from under the rear bumper, the rear bumper mount seems to have rotted off, not ideal i know.
The bumper is being held up by a Ziptie
The interior is a bit of a mess..
She has Satnav..... doesn't work..
This is a Video i just uploaded but it is 10months old.
The first time she started in months.
ran rather well.
Thanks for having me and reading this incredibly long post.
Thought I'd say hello. Just bought myself a 2000 4.0lt P38 - 109k on the clock in pretty good nick - all for £1600 which was a good deal imo. Previous owner was a pleasure to deal with and even delivered the car.
Just overhauling everything I can think of before using in anger.
New water pump
oil filter and oil
gearbox oil and filter
rebuilt the compressor
air and pollen filters
new viscous coupling
new radiator and hoses and thermostat (leaving the heater matrix for now as I don't want to scare myself yet!)
Replaced the gear lever housing and cable as the old one was knackered (£27 of Ebay) and relatively straightforward
Keyfob refurb kit so now have 2 working keys.
Just waiting for the metal heater pipe to turn up (old one was seriously corroded) and fill up with OAT coolant and we are good to go.
Looking forward to some fun.
I thought I'd post what my piston looked like when I dismantled the compressor for the overhaul.
So the past few weeks I’ve had a problem that I’m chasing, starts fine, runs fine till I’m in 4th gear, say at 40-50 mph, it then acts like it’s a dropped a few cylinders, knock it into neutral, give it a few throttles and it goes back on eight, yesterday it did it but stalled, only the once, normally it will just go really low and I can catch it.
Changed plugs, TPS, MAF, gonna swap CPS today, fuel pump is 18 months old, so I don’t think it’s that,
My initial thought was the maf, maybe this is why my lpg is acting up, any ideas appreciated, plugging in diagnostics today to see if any stored faults.
I had Ashcrofts fit a HP24 gearbox to my diesel way back in 2012. At their recommendation I had a boss welded on to the gearbox sump to accept a temperature probe.
At the time I bought a cheap digital temperature gauge on Ebay and cannibalised the guts. I fitted the digital panel bit into a spare space in the instrument binicle. The temperature sensor that came with the kit was a two wire thermistor type.
It has worked well for 6 years but has just failed. The temp shows 01 deg C.
I have measured the old sensor resistance and it has gone open circuit. I have now plugged a new two wire sensor in (not yet screwed into the gearbox) and the digital panel now does its startup cycle which it didn't before but then shows 130 deg C. at just ambient temp.
The new sensor resistance is about 50 ohms which does alter with temp. I tried it in boiling water. It is an NTC thermistor. Resistance drops as the temp rises. It looks physically exactly the same as the old one.
I thought that all cheap car temperature probes would be standardised, use the same thermistor and have the same range. However I am now suspecting that there are different resistances despite the ranges all saying 0-150 deg C.. Anybody shed some light on this?
I know there are single wire and twin wire types. There is no technical data included with the sensor other than it is 0-150 deg C.
I could buy another complete gauge kit that comes with a sensor so they are a matched pair but the dash will have to come out again to fit it.
One other thing: I measured the voltage to the sensor plug and it is only 5 or 6 volts. Not sure what voltage it should be from the digital head unit. It has a 12v supply to it behind the dash.
Evening guys, got a weird one with the EAS, so I rebuild the entire system. New everything minus sensors and ECU and it was working fine for about a month.
It’s started today, the car is raising and lowering itself by approximately 2cm on all of the corners in all modes, less at high and acsess profiles. Does it driving and stopped now.
I’ve diagnosed it to basically the compressor runs the tank up the pressure and then while it gets to just about cut off it raises the car, compressor shuts off then the car will lower the suspension back to the selected height setting. When the compressor fires back up the same happens.
None of the airbag valves indicate as open when this happens, neither do the inlet or exhaust valve indicate that they are open. So electronically the system is sound as everything operates as it should. I’m guessing one of the new seals in the valve block has not seated correctly or got nicked on the way in.
Anyone got any ideas which one/ones it could be?
Non-return valve or a leaking inlet/exhaust valve?
Again the problem only happens when the reservoir is near full and for maybe 5 seconds before the compressor is shut off. It has to be an internal leak at the top end of the pressure.
So if I use the system a couple of times to get the stored pressure down it makes the problem go away until it’s back up to pressure.
Any help would be great, means I have a place to start when I get a chance To pull it apart again! Couldn’t have too long with fully working suspension!!
See the video on the this page https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/aluminium-repair-starter-kit/
Fix your own aluminium cylinder head where pitted on the compression gasket land due to a blown head gasket / easily fix holed aircon pipes? Would you have faith this would work?
I have a leaky aircon pipe (not on a P38), haven't looked where the leak is yet but the missus could hear it was near the back wheel. When I get time plan is to pressurise the AC system (with CO2 or LPG because DIY AC gas refills are expensive, I don't have nitrogen and don't want to shove water vapour in with compressed air), locate the leak, remove pipe and hopefully use this stuff (cheaper from Ebay) to braze and fix it. If that works I might let an AC firm suck all the gas out and refill... but wonder if it CO2 / LPG would be a problem for their machine?
Just saw this from Modern Classic magazine.
'A RANGE ROVER P38 IS A MORE SATISFYING CHOICE THAN A LATE CLASSIC'
March 28, 2018
Want to get into a Range Rover? Keith Adams reckons there's only one to punt at right now
Words: Keith Adams
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April 2018 Issue
April 2018 Issue
It’s good to see that the late Classic Range Rover is being hailed as a clever money car in this issue, and that its aesthetics are now being hailed by more experts. I’ve always been a fan of late Rangies – not so long ago I drove a 1971 and 1991 back to back and couldn’t see a reason why you’d pay 10 times as much for the earlier car.
But equally, these late cars have been on the rise for some time now. The idea of finding a hidden gem for a few hundred quid is pretty remote. Shame, but there you go. Classics are classics. Not so with the P38. Here’s a car that only a handful of people have really cottoned on to, so good ones can still be found cheap, which makes them very appealing. And you know what? I think a P38 is a much more satisfying choice than a late Classic.
‘Ah, but it’s a P38!’ I hear you cry. ‘The ugly Metrocab-aping second-generation Rangie with a fondness for the hard shoulder, and a known ability to empty even well-stocked bank accounts.’ Well, I’d suggest you need to get with the times. For a start, the P38 has aged really well – find an unmodified one in a neutral colour, on the right wheels, and in good order, and it still looks fresh. Alongside the P38, an L322 looks like an over-styled, fussy thing that’s trying a little too hard.
Inside, the P38 has held up pretty well, too. The instruments are a model of clarity, the swooping centre console still looks terrific, and most are trimmed in an appealingly light shade of leather and contrasting wood. It has Rover 800 switches, but so what – they work pretty well.
Compared to a late Classic, the P38 drives well, too. Get one with working air suspension, and the tighter steering, improved ride and excellent handling will seem like a revelation. It’s like wrestling a greased Sumo in comparison with a smaller, modern car, but for a Rangie, the P38 feels pretty good. Imperious, commanding, unrushed – just how it should be.
So if you’re persuaded by my arguments, what advice can I give? Definitely plump for a petrol V8. Yes, the 2.5-litre diesel straight-six is easier to find, comes from BMW, and therefore should be reliable. But it’s not torquey enough for the job in hand – and although more economical than the V8, it’s not enough of a saving to justify the compromises. Just make sure the V8's liners are in good order and it’s not using oil or coolant as a consequence.
Stick a nice stainless-steel exhaust system on to a Rover V8 and you’ll enjoy a deep-chested, cultivated soundtrack that’s so in keeping with a well-appointed Rangie. Under-body corrosion is something to take into consideration, but nowhere near as much as with the Discovery or Classic. So just look for accident damage, around the rear arches, and never, ever buy one that’s been wading.
Things to look for? Ah, there are many pitfalls, but the best way of tackling the job of P38 purchasing is to make sure the air suspension works (putting them on coils really spoils them, in my opinion), that all the electrical toys are in fine fettle, it has all the remote keys and they work, and that it doesn’t have immobiliser problems. Oh, and don’t underestimate the cost and awkwardness of putting a shoddy interior back into prime condition.
Stick by these pointers, and don’t be tempted by cheap sub-£1000 projects, and you’ll enjoy a go-anywhere, classless, satisfying modern classic that’ll just get better with age. And I know it’s a cliché, but I’m off to look at the classified ads now…
Read the full featured the Range Rover Classic in the April 2018 issue of Modern Classics. Click here to buy a copy now.
I'm in Beirut for a few days working before heading back to Tanzania and after a drive around yesterday I swear there are more Range Rovers ( no P38's all 322's and newer, normal & Sports) here than I've ever seen in a small place. They are everywhere! I must have seen 20 in about 10 minutes. There are a few LR3 & 4's about and the odd Defender but it's RR's all the way.
Who would have thought it?
For a while now, I’ve been chasing a sound, that I can only describe as a loose washer ring !
It only happens when I go over speed humps, will admit I don’t slow down for them.
Has anyone else got this sound, I’ve triple checked every nut, bolt, washer and Bush under the car, it’s definitely from the front somewhere.
Only thing In the pipe line to change is radius arm bushes, P.O. put s*;tpart yellow poly bushes, that somehow I didn’t notice till a few months back. There being changed back to OEM bushes.
Any ideas are welcomed.
Just finished a complete re-piping of the car, both rear calipers, new pressure control valve for the rear brakes, Russell's Modulator upgrade with new reservior and a new accumulator.
Bled the brakes using the RAVE procedure and all seemed well.
I had a "pressure switch fault" show yesterday on the Nanocom after dash warning lights, which I've put down to driving off the drive before the ABS system was up to pressure fully and having to brake a few times on our tight housing estate, dropping the pressure below switch limits.
I've done the pressure tests and the accumulator is filling in thirty seconds give or take a second.
With the ign on, the pressure is dropping to pump run again in between four and a half to five minutes. Not constantly the same time, once actually went over six seconds before pump run.
I'm taking it that my pressure relief switch is okay but I may have a slightly worn pump or pump non return valve.
Sods law, going away with the caravan next week but luckily I have a second hand pump and pressure switch which I'm taking with me just in case.
I'm thinking that the pump should be okay for a while, what do you guys think ?