For sale:
I have a genuine One owner, 73k, original 1998 4.0SE barn find available for sale.
I purchased this from a deceased estate. It has been garaged from new and parked up 10 years ago.
It is being sold as a non runner as there is no fuel getting to the fuel rail. The fuel pump is running so believe it to be a blocked fuel filter. There does appear to be a coolant leak which I believe is a core plug.
I can't emphasis how factory original it is, stickers, number plates etc etc. Sadly no service book but there's still a main dealer sticker in windscreen indicating it was serviced at 50k.
The bodywork is excellent Rioca Red over cream leather with no dents and certainly benefitted from being indoors. There is a small scuff down drivers side and a golf ball size chip on bonnet.
The interior still has the factory kick plate stickers in the rear and front pax seat looks unused. Drivers seat and boot will need a deep clean.
It would be sad to scrap such an original car but if she doesn't sell I'll simply break for parts.
Original Catalysts, Diversity Radio with good screen and code. HEVAC still has pixels and switch pack including sunroof works perfectly. 2 keys.
Collection only from Spalding Lincolnshire. I may be able to deliver locally.
£1500 no offers.
Philip 07803 582070
What's the latest wisdom?
(If it's important, I am using Elring gaskets.)
I am ready to re install the skimmed heads on the 02, and have found old discussions here that say 65 Ft/Lbs is good.
70 ft pounds may or may not be better....
Atlantic British video for stud install says 85 Ft Pounds
annnnd the instructions on Lucky8 website, which shows an ARP document give the final torque as 100 ft Pounds!!
I note that the block is helicoiled, so don't expect to pull anything out, but 100? Really??
I am now paralised by indecision, so any help appreciated.
Failing that, I will probably straddle the fence and go 75
I have a strange issue with my P38 HVAC. The car was off the road for a couple of months due to a blown head gasket, and after the the HVAC was not blowing properly. The blend motors were replaced and calibrated, but now although the HVAC starts OK, after a while there is no air coming through the vents even though I can hear the fan running. Diagnostics do not show blend motor faults and the internal ambient and evaporator temperature sensors are new.
The system seems to work longer when cooling than heating but recently, at best, it will operate for about 60 minutes before the airflow stops - the fan still running.
I am at a loss, can anyone suggest what the problem and solution might be? Many thanks for your time, Simon
Missing a cap. AC gradually died off over the months. I wonder if this is all due to a missing cap, or maybe my Schrader valve needs replacing. It's the valve on the right (high pressure, I'm assuming)
If simple, as there is no refrigerant, how easy would it be to replace the Schrader valves? What part would I need?
I have been searching for a while this morning and have drawn a blank.
As I am digging down to the heads on the Borrego, removing the accessories and brackets,
I have been dutifully labeling, and cleaning all the fasteners.
Most of them have a bit of corrosion on them and a few have compromised heads, so since they are out, good time to replace them!
Thing is, I don't see any offerings for a full set of bolts, etc?
Anyone know where they can be had?
I suspect that getting them individually would double the cost of the parts for this job.
Because I've just put a deposit down on an L322.
Picking it up next week subject to seeing it.
Feel free to mock me when I come back with tales of woe!
Well, after owning 9 P-38s I have finally struck one with a bad head gasket. The latest Borrego.
Just started pufffing out the side. Ironically, in the shop just as I finished repairing and re gassing air con so I was listening out for odd noises.
I was hoping it was manifold but that would be too easy!
So, it's heads off and do what is needed......At least I finally have a well lit shop with a solid floor now.
The question at this point is which gasket set is recommended? There is a bewildering selection out there with prices all over the place!
I already know, from years of reading about this, that I will be wanting ARP studs rather than stretch bolts.
Also, whilst the heads are off, and all the top end bits are off, what else is a must do?
Engine has 122k miles on it........
Oh, yea, I am assuming I would be wise to do both sides, not just the one that is leaking??
Any guidance here will be much appreciated!
Cheers,
Tom
Aloha all,
I have the Dunlop air bags on the way from LR direct.....
If I could add a RH (LH Drive car) door latch to my order, what would I get??
I have used the MG LH latches in the past, but was not sure that the RH drive RH latch would work??
I have dancing door locks on the Borrego and the one that does not move is the passenger side lock.
Also, rear hatch is intermittent as well. Sounds a bit like a bad switch to me.
Any ideas?
Cheers!
Hi all,
Does anyone know where you can get replacement steel "wings" to go inside the rear bumper? Seems everything back there just corrodes, so i'm only really interested in new, not buying off breakers
This car is really a test of faith in whatever....
Last subject was the change of the VC which I hadn´t done yet, then all lights started pulsating (Had that a couple of times, tightening of battery cables fixed that) and then suddenly it did not crank anymore.
That straw broke my camels´ back and I de-registered it, had enough.
Got an EV as a daily driver which is really great, especially with the soaring petrol prices (LPG als went up, but only 20%).
Now I am not giving up on Rangie, so I am back at it.
Ignition went on, Battery is good, when I put the key in Pos. III I only heard clicks from relays but no crank.
Changed the starter for a spare one (good practice since I had to order a 5/16 " allen thingy to put on my 1/2 " wrench.)
Same problem. Bridging the Starter Motor relay worked, so starter, solenoid and cable from fuse box to starter was OK. Relay was also OK. But no Signal from BECM to engage the Relay. Thought it might be the fuse box. But connection from BECM to fusebox was good but no ground signal to engage the relay.
Went to the ignition switch, checked all positions, also OK.
Found that the wire from the ignition switch (white/red) to the BECM did not have continuity. Bridged that with a cable and TADDAAAA, the starter cracked !
So far so good, wondered how that cable, which runs behind the dashboard should have been damaged but now comes the tricky bit:
I removed the brdiging cable and wanted to run a new cable. But the car now starts again without the bridging. As if nothing happened. How the hell can THAT be ???
I am stunned. Any ideas ??
I'm knocking off jobs on the Borrego currently.
Did the u joints and new rotors and pads all around. Also new shoes for the parking brake.
Whilst lying comfortably under the beastie, I had to notice that there are lots of little cracks in the air bags.
Not leaking yet, but as I am going for reliability on this one, a set of quality Dunlop bags is in the near future.
It's currently on arnotts, so.......
Where's the best place to buy Dunlop bags lately?
Cheers!
My left washer jet has knackered itself.
I am seeing:
Logic says DNJ100750, but why two designs? I ordered AMR5257, but have put in a cancellation request upon realising there are two model numbers.
Help!
I cant now get my new Nanocom to communicate with the engine ECM.
I have trawled through the previous posts but none seems to be the same as my problem.
I have done the normal things: check continuity and cleaned earth / ground points.
Here is the back ground, sorry its so long.
I purchased brand new Nanocam through Empire Tuning 3 or 4 weeks ago.
The car had an engine misfire so I purchased the new Nanocom to help me. (They expensive and this fault sort of justified paying for one).
My vehicle is 1999 P38 Gems with 4.0 V8 petrol. Manual gearbox.
The air suspension was removed before i bought the car 3 years ago.
Initially the Nanocom intermittently connected to the engine ECM and the BeCM. (but not the ABS).
The Nanocam reported "code 1364 no ignition coil activation coil 4 cylinders 2-3".
Also code 0113. Air intake temp circuit high. minus 61 deg C.
Trial and error and new plug leads and a new coil pack confirmed it was actually coil 3 that was the problem (spark plugs 4 & 7) and that was due to a poor connection in C525 on the white / yellow return wire from coil 3 back to the ECM conn C509 / Z132. ("pin 15").
So the misfire is fixed and the engine runs fine on all 8 cylinders.
I have bought a second hand air temp sensor but after a clean of the temp sensor bulb in the air filter box the temp read ok, so i've not fitted that yet.
Having fixed the misfire which made me very happy i then realised i could no longer get to the Nanocam to comm with the engine ECM, and only very intermittently with the BeCM etc. (Still no comm with the ABS). Message is "error, unable to start communications with the ECU".
Therefore i set about cleaning connections and earth / ground points and checking continuity from the OBD port to the various "computers".
I had previously (3 years ago) soldered in a new / secondhand OBD port in passenger LHS footwell and worked from there. ( I did this as Les Edwards in North Wales did some diagnostics for me and suggested a new OBD was needed. When i returned to him having fitted the second hand OBD port and a new throttle position sensor the connection was ok)
Checks over the past 3 days confirm I have perfect continuity from the OBD port to the BeCM on the 2 diagnostic wires. C231 numbers 7 (pink / red diagnostic line K ) and 15 (Light green / red diagnostic line L ) to BeCM C255 number 8 and 17 same colours respectively).
I also have perfect ohms free continuity from the OBD port to the Engine ECM with the pink / red diagnostic line K wire. Interestingly the line L does not go to the engine ECM. The Land Rover wiring diagrams show it terminating at the Connector C106 at the ECM but it does not run from C102 to the Engine ECM. Land Rover manual and wiring diagram says "not used".
At the Engine ECM i have good earths or grounds.
The OBD port has 2 grounds. A black wire and a black / purple wire. (pins 4 and 5). The grounds are interesting and may be the problem. With battery isolated and "all off" i get zero ohm continuity from the OBD port to the vehicle's metalwork. But with the key in they do show some resistance, 0.5 ohms, and with the key in position 2 i seem to get even higher ohms. Also with the key turned position 2 i see a small current on my multi meter. Just a few milli volts. How is this leaking into the ground system? Possibly electro magnetic field from the unscreened wires running together?
So i am now stuck and need help.
I have done some good however with my clean up of the connectors and the ground points; i can now connect to the BeCM, and the HVAC and the airbags reliably every time with the key in position 1.
What do you think about the grounds? Could they be preventing the Nanocom from connecting to the engine ECM? I could cut the existing black and black / purple grounds from the harness near the OBD port and make a new OBD to body ground point locally. I presume a ground with "interference" may affect the Nanocom connecting?
How about the Engine ECM itself? Do they fail internally and "stop talking" to the diagnostic systems? Seems a coincidence for this to happen.
With the Nanocom i presume it is OK as if its communicating withe BeCM and HVAC and airbags then it should conn to the other items as well.
I have connected the Nanocom to my home PC and see i still have the unlock codes showing at "unlock 06" and "unlock 08".
I have not fitted the SD card, is that needed?
I have thrown a temporary direct wire from the OBD connector (pin7) to the engine ECM to run parallel to the pink/red diagnostic line K, but still no connection to Nanocom.
Trial and error showed me BeCM required key in at position 1 but Engine ECM required key position 2 and / or engine running.
Help please, any further ideas to get this Nanocom talking to my Engine again (and ABS).
Steve Bedder.
The heat arrived with no warning, and my spontaneous trip to France didn’t help!
As for my AC. I don’t really want to take the car to a generic local garage as I’m not convinced they’d know where to look on a P38. Perhaps the system is no different to any other car and I’m just overthinking it.
I paid around £100 for a regas last year and it worked perfectly for a few months, until it suddenly didn’t. At one point, friends travelling behind me mentioned they saw what looked like a large pool of fluid leaking from the vehicle, which at the time I assumed was the washer bottle/tank leaking.
I’ve since refilled the washer fluid and observed absolutely no leaks, so I’m now wondering whether what they actually saw could have been refrigerant oil or simply heavy A/C condensation.
Can the main chains (Kwik Fit, ATS, Halfords etc.) generally diagnose these systems properly, or is this the sort of thing better suited to a Land Rover/4x4 specialist for a proper diagnosis?
Based in West Midlands.
I have pretty much given up on any of the fan speed controllers I have been able to buy from sleezebay
Therefore, I will attempt a repair. Super simple circuit, so the failure has to be the transistors.
I have tried this previously and used MJ11015 power transistors, Didn't work......Could have been faulty parts??
I have another genuine Valeo unit (Dead) that appears to have FW2602541 transistors.
This seems to be a bad number, and due to corrosion on the Transistors, I am not dead sure I have it right.....
So, anyone with a live or dead controller that can get me the number on the transistors, I will be grateful, as I need a new fan
for the Borrego......
Cheers,
Tom
Edit:
Looks like it was originally FW20625A1 (not 41)
Further research says that the MJ11015 would be a spiffy replacement. As I have tried these, I am not so sure.
I will order the correct part, which is only available from China, and another set of the 11015 cans, and see if I have any success!
Still, any different part numbers on known working controllers will be helpful.
As these things are Darlington transistors, it is now no surprise that they spontaneously short circuit!
When we were using Darlingtons in power Inverters, they would short and catch fire!!
Howdy RR Hive Mind,
My 2002 P38 4.0 Thor has very recently developed a wild water temp fluctuation. Suddenly the gauge (that has remained stoically at mid point the whole 5+ years of owenership ) flies into the red - with the red warning light coming on almost before it gets up there. A few mins or sometimes even seconds later it then immediately returns to mid-point. I can prompt this instant cool down with some extra revving or accelerating, but not always, so it's not necessarily the reason it changes back.
I'm thinking it must be the sensor - as the immediate return on the gauge seems unlikely if actually getting that hot - but wanted to run it past 'the experts' before charging into a parts search.
Thanks
Hi
Just wanted to give a big shout out to Marty, windows and sunroof started playing up and after a bit of research came across this 6 year old post
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/6-info-repairing-window-switchpack-switches
Carried out some open heart surgery on the centre switch pack last night as per Marty's clear instructions and it all works again.
All whilst listening to Chelsea beating Tottenham on the radio, cracking evening, COYI (work that one out in 6 year time)
Aloha, and G'day from the antipodes.
I am currently here having fun driving Austin Champs and working on my 85 Classic.
Got the new Ashcroft R380 gearbox in just fine. Now, I have an issue with my high beam headlights.
They work when I flick the stalk, but not when I move it forward to keep them on.
Looking for a wiring diagram for the lighting circuit.
Anything out there?
Cheers!
Tom
I bought another P38 an old DSE it has an eas fault "naturally" and I can't seem to get the eas cable to connect.
No coms with one cable I have and on the other it won't select a comm port at all.
I recall vaguely having this issue with my V8 however I can't remember how I fixed it..
My laptop is a windows 10 unit if thats any use..
Cheers
Good morning fellow p38 diyers
Recently I bought another p38 it needs some attention but it’s good driving base. Since I got it, the service engine soon light is on. I have drive it 2 times and couldn't really determine what was going on. At first I thought the gearbox was slipping but now I think it has something to do with the service engine soon light. If I cleanr the code with an obd scan, it comes back after 5 minutes as soon as I start driving. Situation discription:
I have replaced the oil, filters and spark plugs. In addition, this one consumes considerably more than my other one. This let me think it might be the Mass airflow sensor might be bad. I’ve got the workshop manual but don’t know what to look for or where. So now I’m wondering if you guys have any idea of what might be the problem.
Range Rover p38 MY2000, 4.6L petrol.