Not so much oily as odd. I've noticed for a long long time that the heating air gets noticeably hotter when going round right hand turns and cooler to the left. i'd imagined this was some sort of surge in the cooling system but all my levels are up, no leaks and "burped" free of air, that i know of.
Has anyone else observed this, anyone got an explanation?
Removed Viscous Fan a while back, car is much quieter, about 1.5mpg better and there is now access to the front of the engine
I has not been that warm in UK so car temperature reading normal
Now with all this extra time we find our self's with i am trying to utilize the AirCon fans just in case it ever gets warm (global warming etc)
I have a MY2000 RR with has the extra switch in the head which is an on/off switch at 105°C (i believe), is there a lower rating switch? Can this be changed with Nanocom?
Or has anybody any better ideas? Or should i just buy an electric fan Kit?
I recently bought a 2001 P38 which I am trying to bring up to as good a condition as possible. This will include a full respray and recondition of interior. In addition, I am putting together a list of jobs of items which will have deteriorated with a 19 y/o RR. Rather than wait for them perish or not work, I would replace them now with good quality parts that should then last. I have created the below list, is there anything else you would add?
hi I've fitted a after market Bluetooth stereo to my 2000 2.5td p38 when you turn the key on to start the radio turns on but don't power down when turned off you have to power down manually
when I fitted the radio I used a wire block connector so didn't have to cut and join no wires on the range rover I was just wondering if anyone knows how to set it so when turn key off the radio turns off as it was on the other day and has made battery drain flat
Went out for a bit of (essential) shopping earlier and as I pulled into the supermarket I heard a little pop, looked down and saw this had appeared.
A few weeks ago I heard something hit the screen but didn't notice an extra stone chip (in addition to the 3 or 4 that I already have). Seems that I didn't notice it as it was obscured by my sat nav mount and it had decided to change from a stone chip to a crack.
I've got windscreen cover on the insurance so that isn't a problem and the heated screen has only worked in odd strips for a long time so a new screen will be a bonus. Wondering if it will be better to leave it until the weather is a bit warmer before getting it done, any thoughts?
After 15 years I'm still learning about my P38. I'd always presumed my bump stops were bolted on and had always dreaded the thought of the day of unscrewing a rusted, seized in bolt. Well that day finally came today when replacing my airbags for the second time during my ownership. I finally bit the built and attempted to remove one only to find they just push on, how simple. In my enthusiasm I ripped the remains off with the thought "they can't be much more than a few £s for a set of 4" How I was wrong, £10 + each, come on LR even for you that seems steep. Are the aftermarket ones any good, what do you recommend and where from? Are they generic to any other model / manufacturer?
If nobody is interested, I’ll stop posting, but it is Range Rover related.
In 2014 I sold my last Supercharged L322 as I was planning to upgrade to a 5.0. In the end I gave up looking for the perfect 5.0 as I was being very picky on the colour and spec.
Nearly 3 years ago I bought a Jaguar XFR to cure my lust for a 5.0 and have been looking at 5.0 L322’s on and off ever since.
On Christmas Day when everyone else was asleep I was flicking through eBay as you do and found a 2007 Supercharged advertised as spares or repair due to a misfire. I was told that it hadn’t been properly diagnosed but the worst was feared due to the car having LPG. I spoke to the seller on the phone, he named his price and a deal was done.
I thought about going down with the trailer to fetch it myself but with COVID and the borders supposedly shut I thought it best to have it delivered. Quotes were under 300 quid door to door which from Halifax to Glasgow seemed more then reasonable so delivery was booked.
The car was delivered at 2pm today and considering I bought it and paid for it without even seeing it, I’m pleasantly surprised! I didn’t want to ask the delivery guy to drop it at the door as the road had some pretty nasty frozen bends on it and it didn’t seem fair to ask him to drag this lump on the trailer up there so it was dropped 1/2 mile away at the start of the lane to the house.
It’s filthy after sitting on the trailer behind the tow car that tugged it up the A1, A66, M74, M8 and needs a good sorting out. I’m going to de-chrome it and put the wheels back to silver too. I always have my cars detailed so it’ll get that treatment when my guy can fit it in.
The car has loads of service history, 2 excellent Pirelli Scopion Zero’s, 2 brand new Scorpion Verde’s, removable tow bar, etc. It really is a nicely spec’d and nicely sorted car. The interior needs a good clean and the leather conditioning but it’ll tidy up nicely. All the buttons do what they should and everything seems to work other then the reversing camera.
After I’d got it home I had a quick look at it, read the codes with the IID tool and had a look. It pointed to a misfire on cylinder 1. Whilst removing the cover from the rocker cover I could smell molten plastic, it was disgusting. When the cover was out of the way the fault became apparent.
I removed the plug from that cylinder and the adjacent one to make sure there was no obvious reason for it failing and they both looked identical.
Last week whilst playing guess the fault on eBay I ordered a spare coil as I thought it might be handy for troubleshooting. I swapped it with cylinder 1 and started the car and it was purring perfectly on 8 and it drove spot on.
I’ve already got a new set of plugs on the way and I’m going to order all the filters, all the oils, gearbox service kit and a supercharger rebuild kit for it to ensure that it’s in fighting form, and then change the towing electrics to 13 pin and see where we go from here.
I’m going to start doing some research into replacement for the reversing camera and start the process of de-pimping it. I was to remove the chrome tubes and replace them with deployable side steps, I want to replace the chrome grill and side vents with standard ones and the wheels will be put back to silver.
This and the XFR should make the perfect pair of Supercharged V8’s hopefully!
Guys, does anyone know who make the original (OEM) VCU for the cooling fan? I have one available that is supposed to be Borg Warner. BW stuff is good, but is it OEM?
Simple question, does your p38 have the driver side front handle missing from the roof?
Thought I would share this project of mine with you all.
Since fitting the larger tyres to my P38 (235/85R16) the spare doesn't fit into it's usual spot anymore. This past December break I fitted the spare to the roof while we went on a little roadtrip here in SA. It worked, but isn't the ideal spot, mostly because I don't like the look and added wind resistance, but also because my windsurfing gear has to go up there in future. I started designing a spare wheel carrier for the rear in August last year and I've been spending a few hours on it here and there. This afternoon I just finalised the first design revision and sent the parts off for lasercutting. I'll document the build process here.
Spare location on the roof:
Proposed location on the rear:
I'd like to retain the original bumper in this first revision, additionally I'd also like to retain the ability to unbolt the major components and possibly update or change them in future. I'd like to minimize the amount of welding to the existing chassis also.
The carrier will attach and hinge on the chassis on the right rear corner. This will attach to the rear chassis longitudinal member here:
The chassis mount will be bolt on, with only holes drilled into the chassis, no welding. The bolt on plates will be supported on two planes and supported on the inside of the chassis with backing plates to support the load:
The standard bumper will cover all the modifications to the chassis (if I managed to measure correctly, if not, I'll have to make a plan on the fly) with only a hole in the bumper on the right hand side for the swingarm bolt to pass through, as well as holes for the fasteners where the center mount attaches to. The center mount will support the swingarm vertically in the closed position as well as supply a position for the closing clamp to attach to. The center mount attachment will be welded to the rear crossmember (round bar behind the spare wheel well and inside the rear bumper), which is removable and can thus be welded off vehicle.
Center mount attachment:
The swingarm assembly is supported by two deep groove ball bearings (replaceable) and is bolted to the chassis mount with a high tensile M20 bolt. The swingarm assembly will support the spare wheel as well as a mounting location for a high-lift jack.
The center mount will bolt to the center mount attachment through the standard bumper and give the swingarm a pace to locate into and clamp onto:
Swingarm located into center mount:
The swingarm is has a secondary locking pin that locates into the chassis mount and this secondary locking pin will also lock the swingarm in it's open position, allowing normal operation of the tailgate.
Secondary locking pin and swingarm bearing assembly:
Hopefully I'll get the lasercut parts before the end of the month so that I can get going with the fabrication!
The time came to turn the engine over for the first time. No nasty noises but after about 15 seconds cranking the oil light is still on. Any recommendations for a suitable gauge to check the actual pressure?
What does it do?
On the road to work it is a winding B road which is quite nice to fling the old bus around, the only issue is the TQ lock up which under light throttle kicks in at 35mph which is a pain in the arse especially when the engine just bogs unless I give it 1/2 throttle to make it kick down, the issue then it it will immediately change back up!!
Another annoyance is when I let off to go around a bend or for a blind hill, it changes up mid hill which is a pain in the arse.
In my other automatic, Sport mode stops it locking up the TQ does it do this with the p38?
Never used S in the P38 to be fair, does it make any difference!
are there any good rebuild or reference guides for rebuilding the 150 amp alternators used in the NA spec P38s?
figure now is as good a time as any to learn how to rebuild these things.
i was driving home from the bank the other day and got the Gearbox Fault message then the ABS Fault message. the Rover decided that 3rd gear was the only gear it wanted to use for the remainder of the drive. well, at least, that's what it felt like.
shortly after this, the HVAC shut off and the the HVAC screen went blank. we decided the best course was to turn off the radio and all other electrical sundries and continue on since we were moments from home.
pulled into the driveway, parked the car, and then shut it off and tried to restart. nothing but clicks. easy enough. figured it was a dead battery and we had made it home on the alternator and a prayer. the last statement shows both my limited knowledge of a car's charging system and my utilitarian view of spiritualty. i am currently working to rectify one of those short comings.
did a little research and decided to pull the battery and throw it on the charger. the next day i installed the recharged battery and fired up the Rover. it started but sounded a little weak. still, it was running and that was good. i pulled out my tester and probed the battery while the Rover was running. 11 volts. that's not good. 10 volts. dammit.
a couple of minutes later the Rover shut off on its own.
while i was initially leaning towards a bad battery, now i'm thinking that the alternator may be bad.
if the alternator is bad that could have ruined the battery, as well. right? i'd hate to purchase, install and ruin a second battery if the alternator is bad.
would a good alternator allow a Rover to run even with a bad battery?
would a good alternator allow a battery to drain while the Rover was running or would it hold whatever charge there might be?
Both my cars are GEMS and both have singlepoint LPG systems on them so there is a mixer bolted to the throttle body although I'm not sure if this is relevant. The MAF sensor on the Ascot had gone intermittent so some days it would be fine but sometimes it would give no readings (current airflow 0.0 Kg/Hr irrespective of revs) which meant it was a bit of a bitch to start unless I forced it to start on LPG. Bought a replacement MAF sensor, genuine Sagem with a manufactured date of 10/07, so a recent one. The MAF on my car was an aftermarket one so decided I would fit the replacement to mine but would check the readings I was getting before swapping them over.
Checked the readings on my car and found them to be about right, around 22 Kg/Hr at idle, rising steadily up to around 60-65 Kg/Hr at 2,000 rpm. RAVE tuning data says it should be 20 plus/minus 3 at idle (so within limits) rising to 60 plus/minus 3 at 2,500 rpm (so a little on the high side) However, when I checked the Calculated Load Value, it was hovering around the 23-24% mark at idle in Park and not the 2.8-3.8% that RAVE says it should be. Initially thought that maybe there was a decimal point in the wrong place error in the Nano but at 2,000 rpm I was showing a calculated load value of 35-40% and not the 10% at 2,500 rpm I should be seeing. Swapped the MAF sensors so I now had the genuine Sagem replacement and checked again. Readings were damn near exactly the same.
Then fitted the known working aftermarket MAF I had just taken off my car and put it on the Ascot. Fired up immediately and left it running to warm up. Then checked the readings and they were almost identical to on mine. Airflow within limits at idle, slightly high at 2,000 rpm but still with a calculated load value far higher than it should be. I reset the adaptive values on both cars so had a baseline to work from but that made no difference to the calculated load value.
I'm wondering if the restriction caused by the mixer in the intake is affecting anything and will see if removing it makes any difference (when it's a bit warmer outside) but does anyone have any idea why the MAF readings seem about right yet the calculated load value is much higher than it should be?
I have just bought one of these for my diesel p38. Has anyone else fitted on and what has been there experience?
Allegedly they improve mpg, power, torque, etc. Not sure this is true, so thought I would ask from someone who has already done it.
Happy New Year...
A strange time to be online but everyone's in bed and I'm bored with the TV, might as well set the ball rolling. Hope for less Covid this year.
Hi Guys, looks like i need to replace my temp sensor. Whats the latest on getting this part? I can't seem to find it anywhere?
Went to use vogue earlier and my heated window switches dont work neither do the heated seats I've checked fuses so any ideas ---- I am seriously considering calling it a day with it now --- getting to be very unreliable and bloody cold too
This time it is the front corner of the headliner under the sun visor is getting wet, and only on the captains side, the drinkers side is fine..
At the moment..
I've had this before and seemed to fix it, the sunroof frame had rotted and the glass was pulling away from the frame near the rear of the frame, I sealed it however what was happening was water was wicking under the seal and along the inside of the glass, which subsequently soaked the headliner..
I'm thinking of pulling the seal off the sunroof completely and sealing around under the glass, do you have to pull the cassette to remove the seal?
The water isn't running down the screen.
The sunroof drains are clear and all attached, I've poured water down them with no ill effect
Anyone had this?