Anyone who owns a HSE/Vogue with the Wood/leather steering wheel, i can almost guarantee it has some form of degredation, especially being that the youngest P38 is 18 years young.
All that time being exposed to the sunlight will damage even the best leather out there..
In my case the wheel had started to go mank, the leather was starting to break down, and it looked very unpleasant...
Steps to restore this goes as follows..
This is the kind of shit you can expect to come off, just imagine that the next time you touch the wheel on your P38, yuck..
In this instance I used baby wipes, it is gentle enough to not harm the hide, but strong enough to clean off the crap..
Don't use a Leather cleaner, as it likely will have conditioners in it or some kind of humectant to hold moisture and this again will harm progress....
Looks crap doesn't it!!
My application only requires a dye..
This is the product I used, it comes with a sponge and some liquid, as you'd expect..
The sponge itself has a split personality, as it is both an applicator and a remover!!!!
Goes without saying but you should mask the wheel off, so you'd don't get dye on the wood or plastic..
This is achieved after 2 light coats, don't be tempted to slap it on, patience is key and also don't use a drying aid, it has to flash off naturally..
Another 2 light coast sees it looking even better..
This coat No4 was left for 12hrs to cure and then you do something odd.....
Get the rough sponge or very fine sandpaper out again and remove any rises or scale that might of landed on the wet dye during the application and drying process, this also forms a basis for the last coat,
Do this only when it is 100% dry..
Once done give it the final coat, this one will be a light coat to fill in the scratches from the sandpaper and will serve as the final finish, so don't rush...
Done right it'll look like this.....
There will be a PT2 to this when i re varnish the wood, as mine is damaged, which is the reason for the masking tape remaining on for the moment..
Leave the final coat for 24hrs before touching..
This question is about the Disco, but it's a 4.0 Bosch. I've been adding about a pint of coolant a week, and I don't drive it a lot. It has 165,000km, and as far as I can tell, the HG's have never been done, so I guessed it was time. I removed the heads, and I was hoping to see more definite evidence of bad HG's. I'll try to post photos again. Also, are #6 liner there is a slight brown streak, but liners all look intact, and slightly below flush.
I was playing about with Jitsi Meet and I've got an install of it running. Who fancies picking an evening to all jump on for a chat? If you're on a PC don't need to install anything, just make sure your camera and microphone works (headsets work just fine). There's an app for mobile users too, which seems to work okay. Unlike competing products that sound like an 80s ice lolly, they don't send all your info to China ;-)
Well, today's job is putting all of the EAS bits back on the Borrego!
So far so good, I have determined the method used to place it in Manual mode, and reversed that damage.
It looks like they also unplugged the switches on the dash.....
Gotta tear into the centre console for that one. I do have it raising and lowering nicely and no leaks found so far.
NOW, I have been trying to figure out the initial reason they were convinced to castrate it in the first place......
Looks like (Per Nano) the RH front sensor reads 24 no matter its position. no deviation at all. So, a wiring issue.
Nano throws a fault for out of Range sensor. Pot tests good on the bench.
Question is: just how many potentially corroded plugs do those 3 wires go through on the way to the controller???
I cannot access Rave at this moment......If no feedback soon, I will attack the kick panel plugs on both sides.
I also cannot seem to log on to the Pub on my Android tablet in the shop. Seems to have something to do with Catptha?
I'm pondering my next project and was just wondering about the difficulties when swapping a 4.0 Thor for a 4.6 Thor engine.
Obviously you'd need to change the ECU as it would have the mapping for the 4.0 engine.
The gearboxes were different as well, the 4.0 has the 4HP22 whereas the 4.6 has the 4P24, but I'd guess these days that most 4.6 engines are probably only putting out the power a 4.0 did when it was new lol.
I'd guess the bell housing bolts are the same across both engines?
I've got a 4.6 gearbox and torque converter here from a 96 GEMS car, would this suit to be mated to a THOR 4.6? I guess the gearbox ECU would need to be from a THOR car as well.
Any thoughts would be appreciated!
I know what my thoughts are, but looking for more input etc.
I had issues last year with a lot of strange electrical gremlins that stopped when I charged my battery with mains charger.
It took considerably longer than the normal 12hrs or there abouts for a depleted battery as I understand it.
I've since charged it a few months ago and done again this weekend taking and it's taken best part of 24hrs.
I have a new rectifier with 14.5v set point and a reading at the terminal of 14.2-14.3v which should be good enough to keep it charged.
Give us ya thoughts guys.
as stated it starts and then promptly stalls. so far i have removed and tested the TPS all good , removed maf cleaned and inspected removed idle bypass valve cleaned, appears to be working maybe ? also have good fuel pressure at all times. can you test idle bypass and maf with a multi meter if so how ?
this problem started as it would idle but not run , would brake down as you tried to rev the motor and then would go back to idle, now it will just starts and then stalls out and will restart and stall out again. i have used timing light to check that the spark is their all the time , sparks to the last turn so that indicates that it is most likely turning off the injectors . no alarms on the nano other than o2 sensor (yes it is a bit fumey) but was not a problem until now? dose the CPS turn off injection when faulty also can this be tested with multi meter. no alarms on dash or check engine light . it appears that my problem may be associated to something that turns off the fuel system. any help appreciated.
1998 4.0L GEMS
I noticed last night whilst working on my P38 just how badly faded a couple of my door handles and the grill are.
Everybody seems to paint the grill black but on the late cars it was quite a light grey colour. Does anybody know what a decent colour match would be?
Halfords do a grey bumper paint but the reviews say it dries brown so that's been ruled out straight away!
Used searched but no results ... a mate from Italy has a late Diesel with the MAF sensor, and his HawkEye shows a "Boost Temperature" reading fixed always at 124.8 deg. Vehicle has no strange behavior, fuel consumption in the norm, smoke, all seems fine, but the weird data remains.
He tried swapping MAF with another friend same year/model but no change in the data observed. Unfortunately don't have access to a Nano or other means of checking (actually, do these phony things app like Torque work on P38s?).
Anyone has come across a similar case?
Aloha, I have made the last 2 posts here in "Opening Time" as they were not electrical, or oily in nature......
Please advise if they should be elsewhere?
Yesterdays fun was replacing the right side blend motor. having read Rave, and the tips and tricks from the old .net site,
I went with the drop the glovebox, cut the duct, drill a hole for hidden screw method, and was able to get it changed.
I spliced the wires at the HVAC plug, for ease of access.
After installation, and taping the duct, I tested it for function, and found that during the process of shifting the ducts, I
dislodged the pipe that runs across to the RH side vent! No way to get it together from beneath!
SO, I thought to simply remove the Passenger side Air bag.....Looks easy with the 4 torx screws and a plug.........
Just gotta pop off the trim above the glove box.....Yea! Right!! Using Jos Guese's instructions from .net, I tried to gently but firmly get it to pop loose. It would not budge!.
In doing this however I noticed that the whole mess is a bit flexible, in that a padded airbag case is nestled in a padded dash.
Thus, the tip of the day for anyone trying to get the bloody airbag out is to use a thin, flat pry bar (Stanley Wonder Bar) and gently lever the bottom edge of the airbag up over the top of the trim strip. It actually pops out easily.
Make note of the clear lexan spacers on the lower front of the airbag to be sure they go back where they belong. Replacement is reverse
with the top edge going in first, then just gently prise the trim back to allow the 2 tabs on the airbag to drop in to the slot.
With airbag out, it was easy to fix the duct work although, I never worked out where the odd 100 mm wide U shaped convoluted spring clip came from???? It just fell out as soon as I started messing round with the ducts....
You also gain great access to the blend motors from above!
Note: Be careful when putting the air bag back that the glove box release cable is correctly routed, and not pinched under the forward left attachment point of the bracket.....If you do, you will need to drop the glove box, remove the airbag again, and shift the cable......Just saying.....
Easy 2 hour job........next time! 4 hours for the first go. I would have also done O rings at this time if I had thought to get some beforehand.
EAS software doesn't give me the "good idle"
and it keeps flickering green and red...
The car is also sitting pissed again, and i can't adjust it!!
piece of shyte.
would a makita dtw450z impact wrench max Torque: 440Nm be good enough to take wheel nuts off a p38
One of my P38 headlights has a little water sitting in it after rain - passenger side - haven't tried to get in it but is this a replacement job - reflector is showing signs of corrosion !
Ive been treating the H&Hs seats with saddle soap conditioner since the day I bought it 6 years ago.
Saddle soap has different properties than regular leather conditioners and is used, as the name suggests, in the equestrian field mainly for saddles and riding boots. It has Excellent waterproofing qualities and it seems to make the leather a lot firmer yet subtle, if that makes sense. After applying it generously I normally let it sit overnight then polish it next am. Have been doing this every 6 months and am really impressed with the results. It doesn’t give that gash bright sheen or sticky residue either.
We use it on the daily driver Landcruiser seats and that gets a hammering what with dogs and kids hopping in and out etc...
Just thought I would pass it on now that spring cleaning thoughts may be entering your heads.
Took a spin to the breakers today ("Essential" industry, thus open!) There is a 2001 beautiful dark green, EAS still holding air! and
a new headliner. I found a 4 inch blow out in the main Rad hose, so I think we know why it is at the knackers yard. Sad!
The owner obviously took good care of it other than the hoses......
I will probably return to grab all of the EAS stuff to put back under the Borrego.
Among the bits I scored another DSP amp (2 good spares now!) and all of the temp sensors for the AC
3 working blend motors.........Gotta get rid of the "chequebook!" on the HVAC But that's not what I need to know.
My windscreen has a slowly creeping crack that was just under the rear view mirror mount when I bought Bolt, and has now crept
down about 6 inches.....Also a stone chip on the passengers side, about 50% of the wires
do not heat.... I think it will be time to replace it soon.
The 2001 at the breakers has an pristine windscreen that can be had for $40 bucks.....I just need to remove it intact.
I have seen wire saws in use in the past, but have never tried them out.
I am assuming it is simply glued in with some really good snot?
Any clips or fastenings I should have in hand before starting?
Any words of wisdom? advice? If I break it trying to remove it, I will not be charged......What could possibly go wrong?
I will probably enlist the help of a proper glass fitter to re install it......Maybe......
have little issue vehicle will start but not run as soon as you touch the throttle it tries to rev and then dies . i will be looking at the throttle positioner to start with , dose anyone else have ideas on this
had troubles getting on to the site yesterday my virus software would not load up it stated that the site was under attack from something and when i turned the computer on this morning my virus software is doing it's thing on my computer this time . all clean now, did this happen to others or just isolated to me
I use this thread to introduce the other Money pit in my life ;)
My beloved MY1999 Land Rover discovery II TD5..
Bought in December 2018 as an early Christmas present to myself she was/is truly mint!!
Built in 1999 painted in Blenheim silver metallic with the offroad pack..
Bought with 177k and now on 185k it is a great thing to drive, and everything works...
I even bought it from a dealer a hundred yards away from her supplying dealer in Droitwich..
It was a great car to drive to and from Droitwich "where i was working" at the time 60mi there and back.
In the few months i had her an Alive stage II map and Turbo were fitted along with a few other things stock these things usually put out 136hp and 310nm with the map it takes it up to 170'ish HP and 390nm and she does go very well...
With her on the road i struggled to justify putting the P38 on the road..
However when leaving my workplaces carpark i decided to giver her some hoof and the flexplate shattered!!
P38 back on the road and the TD5 lies in wait...
Anyway Lockdown blabbering on!!
I'm board! lol
I'm gonna drop the autobox off next week "hopefully"
Anyone else LOL
Have been dragging a Unimog around with mine, close to 10t IIRC...
Low range 1st - The Morse chain in the T/box is loving life....
These cars do have muscle...
Any road going loads?
How do they tow at speed near the limit?
Does anyone have any favourite sealant for the early non gasket sump? The choice seems to be between Hylosil 601 or 606 according to the manual or Loctite 5900.