Been having a look at a 2.5 1997 (R) 2.5 diesel for someone I know, he wanted to change the gearbox oil due to having issues with what felt almost like clutch slipping. We dropped the sump off and changed the filter today, and refilled it but at the time we noticed the filler plug isn't like the one on my Disco (TYB100080) but has a nut with a hole in it, which then has an aluminium dome inside it.
Should have got a photo of it at the time, but didn't. Was looking up a part number to replace the cap (as we had problems getting it to go back on) and find there appears to be 2 different sumps, which accept either a dipstick (with a nut on the end of it) or a plug (with a thread to accept a bolt type fitting on it). What we seem to have is a mixture of the two.
Is this likely to be a case of it had a dipstick (which microcat shows) and someone has removed it and capped it with something, or did Land Rover produce a few with this arrangement and theres another part number for the cap part?
I decided to start this thread rather than continue this one, hope that's okay.
As in the title. Started and drove okay in the morning the other day. In the afternoon, though, she started once and died after a couple of seconds. Tried to start, crank, but no dice. Battery okay (had a battery delivery service come over -- was diagnosed as okay). Enough fuel in the tank per the gauge, but to be sure we put in an additional 10 liters.
Did some research and checked again this morning. "Check Engine" doesn't light up on ignition position 2. Nanocom has "Security mobilized" at "YES". I tried doing Security Learn, but still no dice (and Check Engine light still doesn't light up). On Nanocom, when trying to dive into anything in the BECM I get "Unable to start communications."
Any ideas on what else I could try? I initially was thinking fuel delivery problems based on research (I'm not well-versed at all in engine mechanics), but that was before I came across the engine ECU-BECM sync thing, which apparently I'm having (no Check Engine light). However, the car does crank -- when there's no sync, does the car crank but not start like mine, or is it supposed to not do anything at all when turning the key?
Anyhow, would appreciate any leads!
P.S. I've been away way too long from these boards but I do still have the car, and time away from here doesn't mean she's been trouble-free, quite the contrary!
Does anyone know the bearing sizes for the belt tensioner and idler pulley, was gonna put some decent ones in while I’m in play mode,, tia
.. never seen so many 'ifs and buts' as on my insurance renewal info post-Brexit, "Green Cards" are back etc, and including:
....not to mention:
Do any of my fellow P38 owners undercoat their 'erm...... P38?
I was thinking of doing mine, as she has 0 rust, i'd like to keep it that way.
I have Waxoyl black..
Just curious, I noted with a Mann Filter that the Oil pressure light would always take 1-2 seconds to disappear.
Since fitting a Bosch Filter the light doesn't even flicker..
Odd maybe, its the design of the filter?
What do filters do you all prefer?
Getting ready to place the factory roof rack on the Borrego, and noticed the rubber gaskets are a bit knackered.
I have had a look and cannot seem to find any for sale.......nor the part number for that matter.
Does anyone know how to delete the code function on the Clarion Diversity Radio (I have the code). I know it can be done and presume it's similar to the later Alpine radios where you just have to press certain buttons in a certain order in conjunction with entering your code.
Trying to get my Vogue 50 started after many years (4.6gems). Turns over fine but no fuel getting to fuel rail (Schrader valve pushed and no fuel / pressure). Disconnected fuel pipe at bulkhead, nothing). Fuse checked and fine, relay checked and working fine. Inertia switch checked and power going to it. The question is how far back can I test the system before having to cut a hole in the floor? I haven't checked the fuel filter as it looks original and I don't want to damage threads. Are there any other obviouse checks? 'Working fine when parked up" LPG system fitted and 'petrol' selected. Plenty of fresh fuel in tank. No obviouse sound from pump but can you actually hear it from inside?
Before the CVC goes to the body shop I wanted to raise the window which I had lowered so that I could still get access. I was going to power up one of the wires going to the motor but wondered if anyone knew which ones power up. The choice is Red/Yellow, Yellow/Blue, White/Grey and Green /Grey.
All other electrics are disconnected. Any other alternatives gratefully received.
I know the majority of you have the V8 model but I was wondering if anyone out there knows what current draw I should see when the glow-plugs are active?
I am learning how to use my new tool but I appear to be drawing over 90 Amps when the glowplugs energize. Is this about right? The glowplugs are about 6 months old.
Just a quick introduction as a new forum member.
I've joined here because I can see a need for experienced assistance in my near future having just bought a 4.0l P38 - 2000my. Took the train down to Newcastle to do the deal, drove nearly 300 miles home without a hitch. I haven't any pics to put up yet but no doubt those will follow at some stage.
This will be my 3rd RR, having owned 2 'Classics' in the distant past. One with a 3.5L carburretted V8 mated to the 3-speed Torque-flyte box; and one with a 200Tdi conversion that someone else had done. Never had a P38 before though, so no doubt a steep learning curve awaits.
If anyone's intrested in Defenders, then I've been driving one of them as my daily vehicle for the last 18 years or so. Currently nearing completion of a 'rolling rebuild' - all outlined here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html
Looking forward to participating in what looks to be another experienced, polite and considerate forum.
Just a question before I start, my elderly neighbour owns a dse auto, he had the gearbox changed by his son, but there’s a problem still apparently, my question is, do they have to be reset with nano ,, I’ve not read faults yet, but anything to check would be helpful, and I get to finally use nano, lol
Happy New Year to all on the forum
This marks my first full year of ownership of my "Royal Crate"
Still loving the cr#p out of her.
Everything I have repaired so far has stayed repaired.
Hoping next year I will continue to be so lucky.
I have a genuine RR Vogue 50 Carin (one of only 30 made with sat Nav) and one of only 85 made in total. It has a genuine 81k on the clock (probably the lowest mileage one in the country) sadly it has not been driven for many years, but is complete and only coved 5 miles since last MOT. I'm looking to sell it if anyone is interested. Please message me if you are interested.
Nice to see a good vehicle - roof lining looks amazing! Not sure these guys know diddly but good to see anyway.
Happy New Year one and all
to all and a happy new year...
I need to change No6 injector as its pushing way too much fuel out of the leak off pipes.
I know its manifold off etc, not a problem, but I dont really want to remove all the high pressure pipes as it can be a bitch to start again.
Can I just loosen and move 1 pipe?
I've seen a few "what have you done" threads on some other Forums, so i thought i'd start one on here.
Today and tbh since last week i've seen trying to deal with the water ingress.
And have been playing round with the interior and in particular the leather seats, trying to get them clean..
when i picked it up... ^^^b
After 3 years and alot of scrubbing!
'tis getting better!
And all back together, Beige carpet wouldn't of been my first choice if i had spec'd it!! ;)
Carpet is alot less Yellow!!
But it is ridiculously easy to get dirty again..
I don't think the PO had ever heard of mats LOL
My old P38's Air suspension seems to have a mind of its own..
The odd thing is..
You can leave her a month on any setting and she won't sag, i don't think there is a leak,.
It's like she's constantly trying to self level..
Any ideas H