The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse


2000th topic!

Posted by Sloth at 21:40.

There isn't a prize or anything for it, I just thought it was cool :-)

Current (2021) good AT tyre choices?

Having just picked up a set of Mondials, I think it is about time to replace my 5 year old General Grabber ATs, as they're really resembling normal road tyres these days. Very happy with how they have lasted me and their performance.

I see now the option is the AT3 - does anyone have any opinions of them on a P38, or if you have another currently available AT, what is it and what do you think of it?

Door latch microswitch.

I know there has been much on here about this topic but here goes anyway. I understand that there are 3 microswitches in the driver's door latch. One of them switches the earth/ground for the rest of the door latches, so if it plays up the other locks lock/unlock randomly as mine have begun to do, but the driver's door remains unlocked (whilst the car is being driven). I've looked at a Youtube video which shows the black plastic piece in the door latch moving across the microswitch with the red/black connections, depressing the pip. I understand that this is when the driver's door is locked and that it interrupts the earth connection, thus de-energising the other lock motors. It isn't what I expected and I may have misunderstood the narration. What I want to know is how I can temporarily control the other locks with a manual switch until I am ready to remove the door latch and sort it properly. Is the problem with that switch due to the pip wearing a groove in the plastic so that the pip is not depressed properly and the earth is intermittently connected, because that would suggest that the pip is depressed when the driver's door is unlocked, which is not what the chap on the video seemed to say? Are the necessary components to effect a permanent repair available? Presumably the black wire on the back of the double microswitch is a common earth for the blue wire (door ajar) and the red wire (C/L), is it? In which case if I disconnect the red wire and provide a temporary 'permanent' on/off switch to the black wire, I can control the locking of the other doors with that switch? I know there is a fellow who can supply reconditioned latches, but I'm looking for a temporary remedy now and my own repair to the latch/switch later. Thanks..

Transfer box problem

A quick call for ideas please.
The Landy garage has just called. They have fitted the new transfer box and they have reported being unable to select high/low range and a horrible grinding noise from the transfer box when run.
The transfer box is about 10 years old and completely unused. I had the case apart to change the epicyclic gears from manual to auto. Nothing was else was disturbed and it went back together easily enough. It turned over by hand when reassembled. Can't think what could cause this. Ideas please gents?
The garage is going to have another look at it they said. Hope they put fluid in it.

seat cleaning

OK folks I've got some cream leather seats to drop in to my old girl they need bloody good clean I was thinking of using G101 a alkaline cleaner and a good leather cleaner after that to soften them up a bit
whats your thoughts or products to use

New week new leak

This week we have a burnt oil smell after a few miles of driving. I've not long rebuilt most of the top end, which involved sump and oil pump gaskets so surprised if leaking from there.

Tiny droplet of oil on the drive after 24h, black centre, clear once it's spread out. Quite odd, i've done all the oils in the last 6 months, all are clean when dipped.

Got under it today, and noticed a droplet of red oil on the transfer box flange directly above the tee piece of the exhaust that goes under the rear of the front prop. It's dropping occasionally on the exhaust, burning off, leaving soot then when the car is parked up, next drip drops on the soot, drips around the exhaust and onto the floor black!

Anyway, got to fix it i guess. Am i looking at gearbox out?


rear tailgate not opening

as it says push the button and nothing happens , worked one minute then nothing . i have dismantled the right side and found the plug with all the white wires in it and i think it is the pink wire that i need to put power to to power the solenoid , is that right .is there another way to open the tail gate or is the big hammer time:😂 . if the solenoid is dead is there a way to somehow operate the top door lock without damaging anything .

Model identification


Is there a way to tell what my car left the factory as? It’s badged Vogue, and is much higher spec interior than my other 99 HSE, but the DVLA docs say HSE. Maybe a previous owner added the badge and upgraded the interior, and running strips, bumpers etc.


Interior Swaps

Hello folks,

Are the interiors interchangeable across all years of the P38?

My door cards are getting very tired and are missing too many mounting clips now (tabs pulled out of the back) meaning they flap a bit so I am looking to replace them. Before I assume I just want to confirm that the slightly different looking (smoothed grab handles) later door cards will line up and fit straight onto my older vehicles doors.

ALso, I have a cream interior. I don't know what the official colour name is but is it the same as sandstone? Did they change the colour when they altered the interior? Just asking as if there was a colour change I shall look for a full interior as the drivers seat is saggy and my colleagues 5 bar seats are noticeably more comfortable.



Hi everyone

Just got hooked in to the Land Rover world for the first time, its a 2006 RR SC ... love it so far.

Kleber Citilander, anyone got them?

I currently have a set of Vredestein Quatrac 5 tyres on my car and have been very happy with them but they are getting towards the end of their life so I figured I would get another set. As I have the 7"x16" poverty spec wheels, I need 235/70x16 tyres but when I checked oponeo.co.uk where the last set came from, they were shown as out of stock. None of the other online suppliers listed them but I have read elsewhere that certain tyre brands and sizes are in short supply at the moment with a combination of Brexit and Covid being blamed. So I emailed Vredestein to ask if this was a temporary problem and when would they expect to have them back in stock, only to be told that the size I want has been discontinued. They are still doing them in other sizes but I'd rather stick with standard and the alternative all season tyre, the Quatrac Pro, is only available in 17 and 18 inch.

The closest equivalent I can find is the Kleber Citilander which is available in the size I want, has the same C, C, 70dB rating and the 3 peaks marking that I need. I seem to recall a similar discussion a couple of years ago when they were mentioned but did anyone buy them? If so, what are they like?

New member checking in

Greetings all

Just joined up here after hearing about this forum from Richard G on the RangeRovers.net forum.

I have had a number of Land Rover products in my time, a classic Range Rover LSE, 4.6 Autobiography P38 and now own a series IIA 109" Land Rover, a 1955 series one 86" and a 1997 P38.
Clearly I have joined this forum because of the later 1997 P38 I have recently purchased.

It's a 4.0 litre version with only 80k miles on it and as basic as they came. I think the original buyer (Rover cars at Longbridge) lost the options sheet when placing the order so it really has nothing on it. No sun roof, manual adjust seats, cloth seats, no Air Con, no cruise control, no heated screen, pretty much the vehicle itself is all it came with! A complete opposite to my last Autobiography with it's TV's, Playstation and everything on the options list ticked.

I bought this one from the Facebook market place locally and it has been sitting in the corner of a yard since Summer 2018 when the air suspension failed and the owner gave up on it. I got it pretty cheaply including delivery to my house and have slowly been putting it back together again.
Air suspension was easy, replaced both perished front air springs, new piston seal in the compressor and that is all working again now so I have been doing the brakes, suspension bushes, steering ball joints etc to get it ready for an MOT hopefully not too far away.

Electric windows are my major headache at the minute so sure I will be asking about them and many more questions along the way...


Diesel BECMs

Hello folks,

My colleague has taken the plunge and bought himself a P38. It is a well maintained 99/00 DT. It doesn't quite have as many extras as my older DSE. According to Martys Nanocom mine has the highline BECM fitted. Would a 99/00 DT be likely to have a highline BECM? Would it be likely to have any of the wiring in place for extra equipment such as heated front screen? He is looking to keep this vehicle long term so it would be nice to know what options are potentially open to him for improvements.



new member (4.6l rebuild and up grade)

thanks for letting me join your group
i have a 1999 range rover p38 and I'm in the proses of rebuilding the 4.6 lump that was in it as head gasket went on it so stiped down and was venting exhaust gases into atmosphere as the head was off fined out it has a top hat liner engine. so the big job had started so thought as I'm in there I would swop out the 4.6 pistons for the 4.0 and swap the camshaft for a Kent camshaft H180
in doing the swap with the pistons I find out that the 4.0l pistons are 20grams les than the 4.6l so less mass to move witch should be better for the mass of the bottom end. so I started to clean the ports to give good air flow thru the engine (wished I hadn't started) but work on them so I can feel the benefit later so no pain no gain.
I have spent a lot of time cleaning the engine as it had a fair bit of oil all over it it was looked after very well by the first owner but the next two did it no favours as it must of had head gasket done but must have been done by a monkey as head boults were so tight had to use breaker bar and an extension bar all in all a bar three feet long bar on some boults and some were lose they had managed to brake some of the rockers as not given the right gap settings so its been a bit of a challenge to make it right but so far the bottom end is back together and sorting the heads out

Battery discount for may

10% off battery megastore in May

Trailer wiring issue

Hello, when I connect a trailer to my p38 after a minute or two it comes up with rear tail light fault. Thought is was the trailer at first but have tried three now all the same when I disconnect the trailer no issue the rear tail light. Any ideas?

Replacement battery for P38 2.5 DHSE

I don't mean to have another long thread on batteries, but I wonder if there might be a bit of advice about replacing the battery in my 2001 P38 2.5 DHSE.

I have read though a lot of the other threads and I notice that the preferred choice is the Hankook MF31 - 1000, but I don't think that this is available in Ireland. I have spent a while looking at suppliers in Ireland and the only other option that I can find, that has been recommended on the forum, is the Yuasa HSB334 which is available today in Halfords.

Is the Yuasa a good option, or would I be better to wait until I go to Scotland in July and buy a Hankook ?


Lumpy Tickover

Weird uneven tickover problem starting about 30 seconds after starting and lasting about a minute. It's very consistent and has been doing it for many months.

I like to get to the bottom of minor things like this because they often precede something worse.

I don't have a good ear for V8s. Might be a misfire but that would start straight away, wouldn't it?

Key syncing

Hi folks. What would stop both keys from not wanting to sync after a battery disconnect? Both previously working fine and previously synced via door method.


Signing up problems

A while back we had a massive influx of spam signups - thousands per day, and at one point thousands per hour - that broke the thing that emails out confirmation emails and password resets.

I just unbroke it, and it's launched a whole load of wedged emails out. If you've already had your account activated and now get an activation email, just ignore or delete it. You don't need to do anything.

There are a bunch of folk who haven't been manually activated, so I'll get them sorted out next.