As like most people, I require a gas strut for the cubbybox/cup holder/centre console. I can only see 2 on ebay and they're horrendously priced at around £25. It's cheaper for 2 tailgate gas struts! Anyone know the part number or where may do them at a more sensible price?
There's 2 colour plugs.
Is the black one for up to 99 and the grey one from 99 onwards?
Hi guys.....that was quick! I fitted the repaired bcem and she ran great, took her for a run and stuff great, 3 weeks of bliss....well 2 flat batterys (new fuse box and battery fitted) and now battery went flat again and when charged now says "keycode lockout" again.
I have seriously spent more time and money on this car than any other, any advice guys ? Burn it ? I am getting so low on this car now, shes so so nice as well.
Could you possibly take a picture of something for me?
Is it possible to turn off the passenger side airbag? I'd like to fold my rear seats down to transport some furniture but still be able to put a rear facing baby seat in the front. Can't do that with an active airbag for obvious reasons!
The official Land Rover Owner show is happening just down the road from me this weekend so the roads are clogged with Defenders and Discos on big wheels and chunky tyres. One of my neighbours suggested I was setting up in competition with the fleet outside my place. It's a good job I live at the end of a private road.......
Out and about today, I got the guy at Halfords to check my battery.
Came back at 403 when it should be 600 he said. Reckons battery is on it's way out. I'm inclined to agree as it's relatively easy to drain if i'm working in it and have the doors open and wot not.
The guy offered me this or this. I happen to have a 10% off code too which is nice. However, eurocarparts have 30% off at the minute. Not sure what size will fit in. The one that's in now is a fairly small size Bosch one. The one in my last car was massive. Anyone know the maximum dimensions that'll fit and/or recommend a battery??
This weekends mission is cut and polish the rest of the car. Did the bonnet last week and it came out great. Used 5000 wet and dry to get rid of any deeper imperfections.
I've just masked the side up
Just turned the compressor on and it's died.
Doesn't do it all the time. Might be 4 or 5 times a week, but sometimes I get a surging like idle.
You can hear it surging a little and the rev counter is gently twitching up and then back down to normal. It seems to be adding about 30rpm. I thought lpg mix to start with but then I checked the petrol and it still seemed to do it. Might the IAC valve be the culprit?
Got myself a new headlining!!!
Before anyone says anything, i'm not responsible for that snakes wedding of wires. I inherited that and i'll sort it when I redo the rear entertainment. If anyone requires a vcr or a sat nav unit, you're very welcome to them.
There were a few dings in the board itself. Looked like someone had maybe rammed something in through the boot in a previous life. Bit of fibre glass and sanding did the job.
I'll put a picture of the finished article up later. Sunroof shade looks good though.
VSEs been parked up in the workshop for a week or so. Got a lift there to inspect the revitalised radius arms only to find the car radio serenading me at full volume!
Wouldn't turn off at head unit. Ignition was in position 0.
Couldn't put charger on as battery was only showing 10v and the "smart" charger won't fire up when battery voltage is that low. Had no option but to pull the fuse then disconnect battery.
Both of these actions are a huge no-no with radio turned on as rumoured to fry head unit and DSP amp.
Now taking bets as to whether the audio system will be completely toast the next time I manage to get to the workshop. Any takers?
Does anyone know the size of the olive that's used on the fitting to the GEMS fuel rail.
Some of you may remember that I noticed that EKA was set as Disabled in the BeCM on the Ascot. It didn't seem to be a problem but now it is. As you probably realised, I've been away and it hasn't been touched for 10 days. I was pleased to see that the EAS appears to be working fine as it hadn't settled at all in that time.
However, went to move it today and the doors didn't unlock on the fob, none of them. Opened it with the key in the hole and only the drivers door unlocked. Found that the battery was completely flat. I mean totally, zilch volts. Connected jump leads and noticed the hazards flashing. As the sounder has been disconnected, that meant the alarm was going off. Closed the door, manually locked it and unlocked it again and the hazards stopped so I'd turned the alarm off. Tried to start it and the dash said Engine Disabled, Press Remote. Now the remote isn't doing anything as the flat battery has caused it to lose sync. I can't re-sync it as it won't do that while the engine is immobilised.
So, grabbing all the paperwork for it, thrash off down to local friendly main dealer and get the printout showing the EKA code (so I at least now know which of the 5 different 4 digit numbers handwritten on the various bits of paper is the EKA code). Back home, try the EKA and it does nothing. But as EKA is disabled in the BeCM, that's probably why. Out with the Nanocom and plug that in. Go into the BeCM settings and get "Error, Unable to communicate with the ECU". Clean the contacts on the OBD connector, still the same. Check RAVE and find that the BeCM uses the same pins as the engine ECU, ABS ECU and HEVAC. Try them and find I can connect to all 3 (although the HEVAC did put up a bit of a fight) but still can't connect to the BeCM. Tried it the usual way with ignition off, tried it with ignition on, rebooted the Nano umpteen times but it still won't connect.
So, anyone got any ideas? I've got a car that has lost sync (no check engine light) so it either needs the remote button pressing but as the remote has lost sync, that won't do anything, or the EKA entering but as EKA has been disabled in the BeCM I need to connect to the BeCM to enable it before it can be entered.
What's "traction failure" and what causes the message?
I've had it happen to me a handful of times since I've owned the car. The only thing that's noticeable when I get the message is that it resets my radio code. Next time you start the engine the message has cleared. I get no other side effects.
I can't replicate the circumstances. Could it be a dodgy ground somewhere?
Why bad things happen even when you've evaluated every risk...
Cutting the radius arm bolts (wonder why people don't coat them with anti seize when installing polybushes?) with a disc cutter (guard removed for access) , so-
Ear defenders? check
Welding gloves? check
Air bag, lines etc protected from flying hot metal in cutting arc? check
Using a 1mm stainless cutting disc for speed and accuracy. Must have twisted grinder slightly, disc explodes in face. Feeling smug that Mr Health and Safety had all the PPE on to prevent injury. Pop out to change disc. Scoot back under car to continue mission. Steady drip of coolant onto visor.
Bit of disc gone straight through middle of rad, which wasn't anywhere near cutting arc.
So mot booked for Friday, so finally put my stainless high flow cats on, definitely sounds throatier.
Went out to the shops, on the way back had a boy racer behind me, came off a roundabout and hit sports and floored it, bye bye boy racer, it took off, I eased of at ???mph as I had to turn off. ( let's just say it was well into 3 digits ) 😁
Apart from main power difference I've noticed she's ticking ove at 7-750, is this the norm ?
Is she in learning mode ?
I had to use the lamdas that came with the cats ( wrong plug, swapped them over) I'm wondering if I've put wires the wrong way, I swapped wire for wire, can't see that gems would be wired differently !
I bought a new rear height sensor because the existing one wasn't giving a smooth reading throughout it's range. I picked ANR4687G from Island 4x4 - It came in a britpart box but has the dunlop mark on it.
I was expecting it to come with two mounting holes but instead it's got two threaded studs. My car is a 1995 model but I've got the adapter plates for the new height sensors (STC3594AA) shown below.
The instructions for the adapters say to attach the the sensor to the studs on the adapter, since the height sensors already have the studs I'm not sure how they mount
How do later cars mount the height sensors, using the studs on the height sensor? Has anyone else used the STC3593AA kit, how did you mount it?
I'm sorry but it's being weird. If anyone can help, I'd appreciate it!
Could anyone tell me why the alarm would go off if you lock/unlock with the key?
For bonus points, what do we need to do to restore remote locking? :)
Apologies for the tedious and repetitive subject of this post :(
Changed the pinion and drive flange on the front diff as it was leaking a bit. Then it still leaked so did it again.
I see where the diff bolts onto the axle there's some sort of black sealant. Is it normal to seal between the diff and axle or is there meant to be a gasket? I'm not sure if it's sprung a leak. Perhaps a check/tighten of the nuts?
Stick some photos of your P38s (or indeed any other vehicles you drive) in interesting places here. I'll start :-)