Just found this in the P38's history...
A tad eggspensive!!
The road tax on my p38 is costing me £22 per month and I haven't used it now for a couple of months. I have other cars to use and the p38 is mainly kept just for towing.
I also need to do a few jobs on it once the weather gets better so it may be off road for a bit.
Tax discs have gone and I was thinking about SORN'ing it (if there is such a word). Anyone else doing it? I see a few of you have more than one p38.
It is all done on line now. It doesn't cost anything and I wondered if there is any limit to the number of times you can switch. Whole months I guess. It is not clear from the gov website. Wondering whether to drop the insurance down to TFT as well.
Does anyone know of a source for the black plastic clips that fix the rubbing strips? They seem to only come with a new strip rather than a separate part.
I fancy a little mild green laning, but the local groups insist on recovery points... does anyone know what the most economical option is to provide decent recovery options front and back? Apparently the tow bar is a no-no.
So, with a very heavy heart, after nearly 2 years of great fun, the time has come that my beloved Rangie has to move on. The MOT ran out in Dec 19 and I haven't used her on the road since and in all honesty, I can't afford to keep her since losing my job after Christmas.
I have yet to advertise her elsewhere and would love it if someone on here would take over her ongoing care.
I have documented on here what I have done during my ownership and I will sell her with 12 months MOT and a new service before moving on. She is not perfect but in my opinion is a rot free, well maintained example.
She does use a bit of coolant (with no obvious leaks). During my tenure, I have replaced the o-rings but not investigated the losses any further. I originally intended to overhaul the engine at some point but I can't now see that happening and I really need to release some funds. The head lining fabric was totally removed by the previous owner and the fibreglass panel is in great shape - it has never bothered me so I left it alone. She is a non sun roof model which I prefer - more head room and no leaks!
I have a set of spare front radius arms that will go with her. I have a full breakdown of my expenditure during the last 2 years and have spent over £1500 over the purchase price to keep her reliable - she has never failed to start and has been 100% reliable.
I'm not looking to necessarily recoup what she has cost me but with a full MOT, about 116k miles and overall tidy condition I'd be open to sensible offers from you chaps before putting her online elsewhere.
I want to check on something that I read about entering EKA codes using the key fob. I was under the impression that, when entering the EKA code, you put the key into the lock and then just turned the key to the locked position however number of times the first number is shown as. in other words, put in the key and immediately turn the key, for example, three times to the locked position, before repeating the operation in the unlocked position. So, if the EKA number is 2462, you would turn the key to te locked position twice, then to the unlocked position four times, then back to the locked position six times, and finally to the unlocked position twice. Then remove the key.
However, I have read a couple of posts elsewhere which says that before you actually start the process of entering the EKA code you have to turn the key 4 times to the locked position to tell the BeCM that you are about to enter the EKA code. Only after this operation of 4 turns to the locked position do you start to enter te EKA code.
Can anyone confirm that this is the correct method of EKA entry ? I have used the codes a few times and I have never "pre-entered" 4 turns to the locked position for the EKA code to work, I just went straight ahead and entered the four numbers using the "lock" and "unlock" sequence, and that seemed to work fine. This was when the key fob wouldn't remotely work because the buttons were duff.
I had better just check, as well, that it is the EKA code that I mean ? The four number code that works when the electronic fob doesn't work, isn't that the EKA code ?
The above name i'm known by on other forums hence the name LOL
I thought i'd document my ownership and "pain" with you gents, coz it is Thursday and i start a horrible day of work tomorra!!
The Story starts in July 2017 just after passing my test my immediate family wanted me to get something frugal cheap to insure and of course, because i was a new driver something "small" and easy to handle!!
I spent hours looking through Ebay - Autotrader - Gumtree etc for a cheap car, however my mind kept creeping back to big saloons and 4x4's as you do when you're daydreaming on the internet.
There were two cars that i kept mulling over
Both were in my budget, and weirdly both were insurable,
I was being asked daily on what i was going to look at, and on "the day" i resigned to tell them that I was going to look at a Mini LOL
Anyway the Jaguar was a complete train wreck, far too much work to bring it up to a respectable daily driver and much more to get it looking good!!
So that was a no go and a waste of fuel!!
Next car "p38" was located in Worcestershire a 75mi trip from where i was, me and my co-driver decided to go down there and have a look..
Naturally it was going dark, and in the light of "dusk" it looked "ok"
Anyway it drove fine, sounded fine and had no petrol in it!!
So i shook hands at £cough and we were on our way home!!
The first stop was to a petrol station "naturally" where £145 worth of super unleaded was put into the massive tank
And we drove home, a 70mi trip at an average of 19.7 MPG which wasn't too bad considering!!
Pictures from the trip are AWOL but i do have this one from when I got her home!!
those will do for the into on this particular money pit..
more to come later....
it's all been running a bit smoothly :)
I was driving home last night and the ABS light came on. So, I tested the ABS and it still seemed to be functioning.. but definitely something to investigate.
Got home, shut off, restarted - no light. Hmm
So I hooked up the nanocom and of course there were no errors showing because I should have hooked it up when the light was still on.
This morning, on startup, ABS FAULT on the dash soon followed by TRACTION FAILURE. I Checked the nanocom and got "Brake Switch Fault 1 time". I drove for about a mile and checked again "Brake Switch Fault 13 times".
OK - I cleared the fault, switched it off and on again* and all was peachy for the rest of the drive to work. No faults, not lights, ABS functioning (good news as I swerved round an oncoming lorry on the muddy road).
So it's an intermittent fault with the BRake Switch - is this the jobby under the brake pedal or is there another one hiding somewhere?
*it's a perfectly valid test if you work in IT :)
I went out to the P38 today and saw a small swimming pool in the floor where the loom goes and my floor mat was saturated, water is leaking from above the dash and on to the carpet..
The worst it's ever been, prolly thanks to this storm "ciara" we recently had, rain has been relentless.
I've sealed up the pollen filters and everything under the scuttle - Drains are clear.
Duck taped the shagged sunroof up too.
so that sorts out the 2 most common areas,,
are there any other places for water to get in?
Patience is getting then regarding this water ingress, i can deal with ruined engines and major components, but small things like this really wind me up!!
(I did try a forum search first, but didn't find anything in the first couple of pages of results).
My car (2000 4.0L 'base spec) came to me with an aftermarket stereo - a Sony radio/ CD player. However while it plays OK in the front doors, there's no sound in the back.
In my internet wanderings about P38s I thought I'd seen something about the radio install not being as straightforward as unplugging one and swapping in another, but I can't find anything which outlines the basic issues or any options.
Can anyone point me in the direction of this sort of info?
(It probably isn't the most important thing I should be thinking about - but you've got to start somewhere!)
I have a new noise that has developed... and I am slightly stumped currently. Noise starts occurring towards the end of the clip and it sounds exactly like that in person. Audible inside the car clearly.
It only happens under load - in the video it is in drive with handbrake on and another foot hard on the brake. So it isn't UJs, or anything post autobox output.
It starts about mid throttle and between 2-3k. It might persist higher in the rev range but I've been driving sensibly to avoid having two cars off the road. It is there approx 50% of the time too. Lift off and it stops immediately.
It is NOT the belt or any ancillary - it persists with the belt off. I wish it was.
Engine hot or cold.
It appeared to be worse on gas than petrol, but I think that is placebo as it happens on either fuel.
It appears to be on the RH/drivers side, but as with a lot of noises it sounds like it could be underneath, to that side, or on top. But, its definitely further away than the LH/passenger side.
In neutral/park however - gone. Revs up and down sounding lovely.
The most annoying thing about this particular irksome noise, is I am sure I had exactly the same thing with the first engine on my first P38... and I never got to the bottom of it. I'm pretty sure that was 'solved' when it had a replacement engine dropped in. It also had a set of headers already on it. I can't see any evidence of a leak from the little you can see with heat shields in place.
Anybody come across this before?
Assuming you've fixed all the foibles and you were tempted to do something to your P38 what would it be?
I'm kind of dry regarding things, prolly my lack of motivation LOL
I am in the midst of doing diffs, T-case, and engine services.
I noticed ~after, of course~ that I was sold 75-140 full syn gear oil, and manual calls for 75-90........
155k miles on the beastie, will there be any issue with the wider viscosity range gear oil?
Did a search, and found no answers......(Did not even bother trying on the dark side!)
I find myself wondering how you all shift your autos,
The people in the know say you should come to a complete stop before going from D-R or vice versa.
Myself in the 4,000 miles i've had her i myself have never really come to a complete stop, usually 1mph in either direction,
It seems to "go in" smoother when it is moving slightly..
After the rolling code/EKA debacle this morning, my just drove it and locked it on the key as the fob wouldn't work. I was surprised as it has always synced in the ignition barrel until now without any further effort.
However, doing the door lock waggle, key press dance (I'm not quite sure what combo it was, but it worked) re-synced the fob.
On the basis that there's only so much "Character" I can put up with on a car, has anyone ever replaced the RF receiver ring thing in the ignition switch?
On my lazy days i tend to browse forums looking at hot topics.
In this case I tend to see quite a few "what does yours do to the gallon" threads.
on these i find seemingly identical cars doing completely different figures.
Mine being a 2001 Thor 4.6. Over 3000mi it did an average of 18.7 on petrol mixed A road driving as for Gas i dunno it never worked!!! ;) LOL
Just curious to see what ya'll get.
More of a question of curiosity.
How does a P38 handle with springs is it as drastic as some might suggest?
Not that i want Springs you understand..
Looking for some consensus on new shockers for Bolt.
I finally traced a strange thumping noise to LF and RR shocks having worn bushes.
As they are probably original, and I have 155k on it now, I may as well replace all 4.
I have Arnott Gen IIs on it, so no extra height.
What do we like these days for shocks?
Been having a look at a 2.5 1997 (R) 2.5 diesel for someone I know, he wanted to change the gearbox oil due to having issues with what felt almost like clutch slipping. We dropped the sump off and changed the filter today, and refilled it but at the time we noticed the filler plug isn't like the one on my Disco (TYB100080) but has a nut with a hole in it, which then has an aluminium dome inside it.
Should have got a photo of it at the time, but didn't. Was looking up a part number to replace the cap (as we had problems getting it to go back on) and find there appears to be 2 different sumps, which accept either a dipstick (with a nut on the end of it) or a plug (with a thread to accept a bolt type fitting on it). What we seem to have is a mixture of the two.
Is this likely to be a case of it had a dipstick (which microcat shows) and someone has removed it and capped it with something, or did Land Rover produce a few with this arrangement and theres another part number for the cap part?
I decided to start this thread rather than continue this one, hope that's okay.
As in the title. Started and drove okay in the morning the other day. In the afternoon, though, she started once and died after a couple of seconds. Tried to start, crank, but no dice. Battery okay (had a battery delivery service come over -- was diagnosed as okay). Enough fuel in the tank per the gauge, but to be sure we put in an additional 10 liters.
Did some research and checked again this morning. "Check Engine" doesn't light up on ignition position 2. Nanocom has "Security mobilized" at "YES". I tried doing Security Learn, but still no dice (and Check Engine light still doesn't light up). On Nanocom, when trying to dive into anything in the BECM I get "Unable to start communications."
Any ideas on what else I could try? I initially was thinking fuel delivery problems based on research (I'm not well-versed at all in engine mechanics), but that was before I came across the engine ECU-BECM sync thing, which apparently I'm having (no Check Engine light). However, the car does crank -- when there's no sync, does the car crank but not start like mine, or is it supposed to not do anything at all when turning the key?
Anyhow, would appreciate any leads!
P.S. I've been away way too long from these boards but I do still have the car, and time away from here doesn't mean she's been trouble-free, quite the contrary!