Is there any gotchas swapping out an electric interior for a manual one?
Dont particularly care about the electrics and may have found one in a preferred color which is manual
Hi Gents, I've just had the Bordeaux blow all the water from the expansion vessel, and when topping up the water just disappears ( presumably to the sump) but not to the floor
Topped her up and did about 1 mile - same again - red hot and steamy - blowing like a whale/
Filled again and ran without the filler cap - started to pump water out as soon as the engine ran - there was "mayonnaise" on the cap and she's been using a bit more coolant than normal - I suspect the head is dead !
Anyhow, I'll not be fixing and asking should I strip out the gas conversion ( done 3 yrs ago by Simon - bloodly lovely job) or just leave it on the eBay listing ?
Hi, I wonder if someone can tell me how to remove the two foam rubber seals that are fitted around the bottom of the bonnet struts. They look like they may be held on with adhesive tape, but I can see a piece of metal inside te seal.
The seals on my car have started to fall apart, and I have been able to get two new ones, and I would like to know how to get the old ones off before the new ones arrive.
These are the pieces that I am talking about:
I stupidly let the battery go flat on my 2001 P38, (don’t ask).
When the dash requested me to reset sunroof and windows, I did but when the drivers window reached its full height it went into this clicking Ratchet type sound which I’m sure isn’t very good!
Does this mean that I have a worn component? If so, Can someone tell me so I can order the part pre-stripping down.
Of course it might just be an adjust or other repair.
Interested to know if someone has had this experience.
New Member here !
Many thanks to Gordon who helped me with the registration.
I own a 1993 RRC Vogue SE for a while now. I did not know much about mechanics but this had always been my dream car. It's my only car, we usually drive around 15000km per year. (it was 130000 tkm when I bought it). The car had no structural rust but some works needed to be done. A local club is helping me a lot (as in, doing the real work while I try to figure out what's going on).
What has been done so far :
I have yet to start all the cosmetic works, but I'd rather have everything related to the car operations working perfectly first.
Had the p38 out for a long drive today. At one point in roadworks doing about 40mph I noticed a pretty worrying noise.
Sounded like a rubbing or scraping sound from the rear axle or something around there. Most noticeable when holding the throttle at cruise. Full over run or acceleration seemed to make it go away or at least become much less noticeable. At higher speeds I couldn't really hear it any more.
I also have a clonk noise when changing drive direction, eg shifting from reverse to drive, most noticeable at low speeds, which might be related?
Any ideas where I should be looking?
I found out, on a trip two weeks ago, that the cruise control is not working on my 2001 P38 DHSE [BMW diesel].
I have read quite a lot of stuff relating to various issues, mostly the pipework leaking air. My question is - where on earth is the solenoid jobby that is possibly located under the bonnet ? This is a UK car, not a USA model.
I looked at a couple of pictures, which I think are of the V8, and they appear to show that it is right behind the EAS compressor box.
Not in my diesel model, it isn't.
So I thought that it could be behind the battery, but no, it isn't there either.
I have the buttons and switches on the dashboard for CC so I am pretty sure that it is fitted.
I looked through Section 19 in Vehicle repair, in RAVE, and although the manual explains how it works it doesn't show any diagrams about where the various modules are. I saw on diagram on a very old post, on another forum somewhere, that pointed to the ECM and the TCM being under the panel above the drivers knee,
But nothing, anywhere that I can find, about where the vacuum thingy is.
Maybe someone can point it out as I would like to check the vacuum pipe, just to see if it is OK.
This is a bit of an aside from my M57ness, but I thought I'd share it anyway in a new thread.
A nice example of why you should keep your A/C on all year round. This compressor has only sat idle for about two years - the system didn't leak at all before the car was written off.
Where the seal hasn't been kept under pressure with the gas and oil in the top discharge plate, moisture has crept in corroding the aluminium surfaces against the seal. A vacuum pulled it shut, but then the high pressure of the discharge side of the compressor has just started to blow past the corrosion.
Thankfully the surfaces on the compressor side and the seal (still nice and pliable) cleaned up okay, and the top plate from the used replacement compressor also cleaned up nicely. Now to put it back together again and wiggle it back into place.
Hello Gents a quick question of three!!
I have the dreaded book of doom on the HVAC and have had since I bought her, the issues I can think of are..
1 - very little air comes out the vents I'm assuming this is because of a dead fan
2 - All the settings work, even recirculate seems to function
3 - when it does sort of poof some air out the vents it is the same temp either side, so I'm assuming the blend motors are working'ish!
4- The book symbol doesn't seem to come on until the engine is running, then it pops up?
Does it do a self diagnostic every time its turned on and if it detects a fault it throws the book at ya?!
Would a dead fan cause a HVAC book and would this in turn prevent the A/C compressor clutch kicking on?
I followed another P38 today a couple of cars in front of me, S plate but with amber indicators making it a late 98. Got up behind it and as I overtook it, looked at the badge on the tailgate and saw it was a Vogue 50. New one on me, I know of the 50th Anniversary and the Vogue and Vogue SE but not a Vogue 50. Bumpers were body colour but the paint was that sort of green that looks like it could be blue under different light that I think they used on the Holland and Holland. Have I just found a really rare limited edition?
Hi, just a quick question - is this item with the two lenses the outside temperature sensor ? I have only just noticed it !!!!
It is in the lower grille under the front bumper.
I have just noticed this advert on ebay for a diesel engine ECU that has had the immobiliser programmed out.
Anyone heard of this before? and how is it done?
The Bosch engine ECU has a fixed EMS code stored in it. It is set at the factory and cannot be altered. The BECM reads and compares the code and sends a start signal if they are the same.
When an ECU is chipped with a different performance map it does not alter this code, it is stored elsewhere in the ECU.
How do I tell if I have hard to work with Harmon Kardon amps or not and therefore whether changing the head unit will be easy or not.
Head unit is Alpine XQD101580LNF
Door tweeters day Harmon Kardon and backs of speakers do too.
Cant see anything in drivers door other than the Door Outstation.
There is a sub in the boot but it doesn’t work
For some reason since a few weeks ago my EAS has decided to default to motorway height instead of standard.
So when I turn the ignition on and start the engine it moves down from standard to motorway.
It never used to do it, the only thing that is different is that I was using it locked to motorway height a few times shortly before this started.
I've had a standard relay in place of the usual EAS one for a long time now and quite like it, so I left it. I prefer that the car isn't adjusting unnecessarily.
The height lock button is not pressed in or active when this happens.
As far as I'm aware this isn't normal or an option? It should always default to standard height, I think?
One of the P38's useful traits that helps justify me keeping it around is its towing capacity. I have a 3T twin axle car transporter that i use infrequently, which goes nicely behind the P38.
The last few times i've had it out however, towing it has been bloody awful. When unloaded, the trailer seems to transmit some sort of vibration or oscillation into the car, which causes a vertical "jiggling" at a frequency which feels like someones shaking my internal organs to bits. Did 100miles in it on satruday, 80 of those unloaded and i was feeling verging on ill by the time i stopped after 40miles. I was having to sit forwards off the seat back to minimise the vibration. Road surface certainly played a role, with one section of road being incredibly bad, but the vibrations were there the whole time.
Now, i know the trailer hitch itself has some wear in it. The draw tube wiggles up and down inside its bore. I've been meaning to buy a new hitch for a while, but its expensive and hard to justify for something used so infrequently. The part i'm trying to figure out though is why its changed. The draw tube has always had this play in it for as long as i've had the trailer, but its never been that bad to tow with.
In the past, the hitch slack seemed to causes the trailer to sort of "kick" the back of the car when the trailer hit a bump or similar. Uncomfortable, loud and annoying, but not continuous. It would also get unsettled over uneven road and the hitch would kinda rattle and bang around, but again, it would only happen over the bit of rough road, not continuously for 40miles!
With the trailer loaded with a car it gets MUCH better, though its still not the most pleasant thing to tow, and it seems to like "snaking", not violently, but enough to mean that your sat there on red alert the whole time.
Anyway, enough waffling, i'm trying to figure out if ALL of this issue is with the trailer itself, or if the vehicle could be playing a part? Perhaps tired shocks or wear in bushes or something? Anyone experienced anything similar?
Anyone used one of these?
It is a Sealey scissor type transmission lift. TJ150E.
Looks ideal for lifting in a transfer box. It is rated for 150 Kgs and the transfer box weighs 75 Kgs.
Made in China and re badged. A few people do them.
Yesterday had to do a 240 round trip to collect a trailer. Just me and the dog, and much of it along the M6 so 60mph most of the time. Got a personal best range of 250 miles out of 71 litres of lpg! This is since I rebuilt my reducer. Previously I was getting 200 miles at best.
Still only 16mpg though, but equivalent of about 30mpg I suppose factoring gas prices in.
IM NEW HERE, HOWS YOU ALL DOING?
IM TRYING TO DOWNLOAD THE RAVE MANUAL BUT EVERY LINK I OPEN IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE. IVE GOT TO CHANGE THE MAIN OIL SUMP GASKET WHICH I AM LOOKING FORWARD TO. ALSO WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST ENGINE SUPPORT BAR? ANY HELP WOULD BE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.
Hi all, I now have to slam the top tailgate for it to fully latch. Is there any adjustment or is it a new latch time? I fitted a used replacement about 3 months ago which worked a treat for a while but now does this too.
I’m undertaking a bit of rewriting and retrofitting of various parts such as trailer auxiliary socket and some lighting. I am on the lookout for some plug and socket connectors rated to at least 30A per circuit (rather than the 12A the eBay specials have!). Anyone have any pointers please? Many thanks.