The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse


tow bar

hi guys and girls would anyone know if a bolt on tow bar off a 2003 range rover vouge would fit my 2006 4.2 l320 sport I know the sport is a Discovery 3 chassis just wondering if the 2003 vouge model is same chassis base ?

P38 : Newbie

Hello, All,
I've recently taken ownership of a 2002 P38, 4.6 Vogue, 59,000 mls in very good nick really.
Just getting my head round the inherent faults and and cosmetic aspects, so I will be picking your brains as we go along , Sorry !
One emmediate issue is the dashboard lights appear very dim and the rheostat on the stalk? does not seem to improve things.
Can you help anybody , Cheers , Lez

Fuel temp

So I’ve have to make another account, last one wouldn’t let me log in, I’ve got a 1997 p38, little under 58k miles, having all kind of problems, replaced a full list of parts, still stuck, I’ve read online today that the fuel temperature sensor have a fail safe of 40’c mine currently reading 42-46’c, if I slightly clamp off the fuel return line the car runs perfectly, if the temp sensor is in fail safe mode, would that cause it to drop in fuel pressure?
Had it on the emissions tester today and the lambda reading was through the roof, co and hc were in spec, when you let off the throttle it initially came back within spec then instantly fall out again

New Compressor?

Well, I seem to have pretty much run through all of the possible combinations of parts from 4 compressors to make good ones....
My 2 Frankenstein units are going OK, but I don't trust the stator on one of them.
So, I am going to bite the bullet and buy at least one new unit.
What is the latest bestest compressor to buy? Thomas 327 and retrofit? Viair? which one?
OEM Dunlop branded??
Next question is from where? Anyone got a lead on good pricing?
Rimmer seems to have the lowest on Dunlop even with shipping.....
Any advice is, as always, greatly appreciated!

Misfire + Tick

Have had the p38 for a year now, has been wonderful.
Last week I noticed that after parking and engine cooling down a bit and back on it would slightly shake at idle for 10 seconds then go away. It has been driving fine after that. Also last week got a misfire on cyl 5 (p305 code), the service engine light was on. I cleared the code and has not popped up again (been about 200 miles). It also has been ticking only when warm, it sounds fine when cold and then will start a tick. I got the stethoscope out and its on the right side of the engine but can be heard almost louder on the right side tire well and under the car. Anywhere I put the stethoscope on the right side can be heard. Read the codes today and the p305 was not there but now have a p300 which I know is multiple misfires. I also took it for a drive with the nanocom plugged and it would throw misfires of cyl 5 (but the service engine light has not turned on and when I read codes with the nanocom it shows none)

I have read everything I could on the internet and a lot of cracked block/slipped liner. I want to figure this out myself and see if maybe its not something else because I go into catastrophe mode. Plugs, wires and coils have been done in the past 10-20k miles by the previews owner. Head Gaskets were done about 50k miles ago.

Video of the tick - https://imgur.com/a/p38-tap-I1WRgts

Thank you!

Metal breather tubes

While stripping the hoses from my 4.6, a couple of the metal tubes came away with the hoses attached - one from the top of the rocker cover, and another from the throttle body. The tubes slide back into their respective holes and fit well, but presumably were set with some kind of paste/ sealant. Anyone care to recommend/ suggest what i could use to lock the tubes back in place? Epoxy?

Dashboard faults.

Hi guys, just a sort of generalized question - the ABS/TC lights are showing on the dashboard display. I have changed the two front wheel speed sensors with working, second-hand, Wabco sensors and there are no irregularities showing on my local garages' fault diagnostic computer. So the two other things that I am wondering about are - is the problem either the ABS pump, or could it be a fault in the dashboard display unit ?

The brakes do appear to be working fine, and I haven't noticed any change in footbrake performance.



So I’ve posted here a few times about my p38 4.6 v8 petrol, running rough, low and rough idle, and missing at a steady rpm, had a full list of parts replaced, out of curiosity my local Land Rover guy clamped off the fuel return from the rain and it started to run absolutely mint, ( I didn’t drive it like this and didn’t want to cause further problems) it’s had the in tank fuel pump, filter and pressure regulator, any idea why blocking the return would enable it you run that much smoother?

Misfire and low idle

Hi guys, me again, a follow on from last post, found another local Land Rover specialist who point my in the direction of fuel pump and pressure regulator being the reason for the misfire and low idle after everything else I’ve replace, replaced them and still no odd, had all adaptive vales reset as well and it’s still horrific, apon further investigation I’ve found the part number on the o2 sensors supplied from a local LR dealer to be fae77350 although they should be amr6244, do any of you know if the fact they’re either the wrong part or a cheaper option for the misfire/poor idle, also to note, when driving if held at a steady throttle ie holding at 30mph, will splutter until you either let off or floor it

A/C, where do I go from here?

Back story- I got my 2001 dhse around 3 yrs ago, basket case really but I like a project! Renewed and serviced everything and coughed up for a nano, in it for the long haul! Anyway, ac didn't work and I knew nothing about ac so I booked it in for a regas at kwikfit around a year after she was put back on the road, vac test passed, regassed and lovely cold air but failed after approx 3 months. Left it around a year then booked her in at a local landrover indy, they found a leak in the condensor using dye and a uv torch. I renewed the condenser and the compressor to condenser hose and took it back to the indy, they confirmed no more leaks and regassed the system. Lovely cold air again but failed again after around 9 months. Left it another year until today when I booked it in at a local garage who, according to their website they can find any leak using nitrogen and a sniffer probe, Google EAC in telford, shropshire to see what I'm on about. They have said they found no leak for the 20 min test. Although my knowledge of AC is minimal the bloke in reception suggested a full ac service and dye added to the system to find the leak! I was a bit pissed at that comment so paid the bill, £70, and left. They did suggest also a longer pressure test for 35 mins and a full diagnosis, I also questioned that and got a load of flim flam, I knew more than him and couldn't speak to the tech who did the sniff test as he had "gone home".
They were my last chance really and I've lost any faith I might have had in garages. In all my life I've only gone to garages for tyres and even that's gone wrong twice, and tracking which cost me 2 ruined tyres in 4k miles.
So where do I go from here?
I'm handy, not too stupid (except car electrics but I'm getting better!) Can I DIY leak find on an empty system?

Lpg removal

I dont do many miles, never use lpg and it causes a coolant leak, so I plan to decommission it.looks as if I need to drain half the coolant, remove the plenum and then the hoses that were drilled into the inlet manifold. Then I need to blank off 8 holes in the inlet manifold and 1 in the plenum?
I assume theres no need to remove the actual manifold itself. I can disconnect the ECU easily enough, and then examine how it was spliced into the engine ecu.... I may leave the tank in place for now, but if so, how should I seal it off (it's empty). Any other key jobs?

New member Blyth Northumberland

Hello, I have set up another login as I have another email address
I own a 1994 4.0 SE Prototype P38
and a 2002 4.6 Vogue.
I have an LPG issue so I will start a new topic.


rough idle/missing

Hi guys, got. 97 p38, 4.6v8 gems, 57k miles, had a full list of parts replaced trying to figure it out, ( plugs, leads, coil pack, inlet manifold gasket, o2 sensors, maf, tps, stepper motor, vac line on back of inlet, oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter, all injectors are clicking, and loom plugs tested with noid lights and ok, cleaned all earth points as well, 110 psi across all 8 cylinders, still runs horrific even after resetting adaptive values, when revving it’s fine, idle settles and after about 10 seconds starts to misfire, local rr specialists are unsure on what could possibly be going on, any of you guys got any ideas other than scrapping the bloody thing?

LR Testbook RDS Software Wanted

I’m trying to resurrect a Land Rover Testbook and I need a copy of the RDS software that supports Land Rover/ Range Rover P38. Does anyone have a copy or know where I might get one (or perhaps an old Testbook unit itself). I believe that the software went from versions 3 through 5 to 7. Any help appreciated.

Incredibly oily steering box.

My steering box is pishing oil from the output shaft seal. I've got one from a breaker, which seems in good nick, and I plan on swapping it over in the next day or two.

Any gotchas, that people who have been here before can steer me away from? The section in RAVE seems pretty short and simple, but it says to replace the sealing washers - but I can't find anyone that stocks them. Are they just like copper banjo fitting washers, or what? Do they need replaced every time or is this just a "hey LR mechanic don't skimp on the customer's 80 grand car" thing?

P38 sadly gone, original OE dampers available.

Good evening. I hope this post is allowed. Sadly, my lovely P38 has moved on.

I was seduced by a one owner box standard 3.6 L320 in a lovely condition.

I did replace the original dampers of the P38 which in my opinion were in great order but my wife regarded the suspension as too soft. I removed the original, non-leaking set at about 70 K miles. They were removed from my 2001 model, 4.6.

If anyone is interested before I put them on eBay, please contact me. Thanks.

I need some help, guys! The driveshaft vibration at speed is driving me crazy.

Hi everyone!

I've run into a frustrating issue – there's a significant vibration when driving at speed, and it's clear the driveshaft is the culprit. The vibration is worse around 80-90 km/h. Forum discussions suggest it's probably due to imbalance.

I'm trying to choose the best way to resolve this?

Take it off and balance it with specialized equipment. It might be the best solution, but it's inconvenient and pricey. I've heard it can also be balanced while still on the car. They use special equipment to balance it on a lift without removing it.

Has anyone tried balancing their driveshaft this way? Let me know how it worked for you. Thank you in advance!

Removing tps

Hello, looking to change the tps and managed to remove one screw but the lower one will not budge.
Can I drill it out or is there a better way?

Odd EAS fault

Hmm bloody eas.

Old girl has a peculiar issues in that she will lift the eas really quickly but lowering her back down takes an absolute age around 2 minutes to get from wade mode to access mode also its gone from going "tick tick tick" to making a faint whooshing sound from the valveblock exhaust

It started happening after i plugged in the EAS unlock cable a few weeks ago it had "no idle" but seemed to have done something.

Now with the wires soldered on the A post I have Comms but there are no logged faults, but it is still is acting odd.

I was thinking possibly the driver pack has possibly got an issues, or the exhaust solenoid?

any help appreciated..


Nanocom not talking to EAS ECU

"Error unable to start communications with ECU"

Seems my Nano is having issues, any pointers gents, footwell connectors come to mind for some reason?

thanks argh!!


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