Time to replace the discs. Wouldn't be surprised if they are original at just over 100,000k.
Pads are fairly new (in mileage terms, about 4 years old) but not averse to doing all in one go.
So, what are the recommendations for good quality replacement discs and (maybe) pads? There just seem to be a large choice, so looking for experience here.
Everything else on the braking system has been done.
I can’t find it in rave, so can anyone explain to me how to remove the mirror glass from the wing mirrors and replace please? I just broke one giving it a tug (worked on previous vehicles lol)
On the 99 I bought as a non runner I’m trying to see if it’s worth putting a few bits right to see if I can get it running. However, it’s got yellow Mayo in the oil cap and spout and the radiator overflow union is broken off, so I’m thinking it might have been abandoned due to a head gasket failure. What’s the quickest route to find out? I don’t really want to put a new rad on if it’s going to burst it or something.
It does start and run but I’ve not had it going long as it starts overflowing after 5 mins.
hi I've been given some seats for my p38 2.5td on a 2000 plate
the new seats came from older model as only has 2 wires for the heated seats (they still work 🤣🤣) the new seats
seats in mine now
as you can see mine has the built in srs system the old ones don't
so question is there a way to transfer my srs system from mine to the ones I've been given?
Hi all, does anyone know what model years Mondial rims were offered with?
When I first connected up the secondhand pipe work for the EAS there were a couple of obvious leaks.
As part of the restoration I rebuilt the valve block and compressor with new O rings etc.
I followed the useful guidance on this link when testing the setup.
Initially the RH front corner dropped overnight.
I went through the test sequence and found that testing just line 6 to the reservoir, the compressor cut out at 4 bar. I presumed it was a faulty presure switch but tested the compressor just on the front right line. It went easily up to 11 bar and cut out as it should. Pressure held for 15 minutes.
Yesterday I reconnected every line and it took 8 minutes to settle at standard height from completely empty and the compressor to cut out. I opened the drivers door to stop it settling but this morning it is down 100mm on each corner.
There are no faults showing and it took a couple of minutes to settle at standard height and the compressor ran for 5 minutes.
Is this within acceptable limits?
Thanks as always.
I'm a long time reader and I don't post here often, I do however read through the posts but my knowledge with these cars is still limited. However, I do require some assitance please.
As the title says I have a 2001 P38 Range Rover whose drivers door latch is stuck in the locked position. I have removed the door trim as far as I can (I think) to get very limited access to the latch. Now there are two leavers on the lock that I have tried moving, 1 is facing the interior of the car & the other is facing to the outside of the car. Moving these has not helped in being able to unlock the door. If I need to butcher the trim then so be it but I really need the door opening & closing properly. Plus I've found someone on ebay who is selling both the door trim & the latch which I am happy to buy if need be but I can't afford right now the £200+ required for a brand new door latch right now.
So my questions is this. How can I completely remove the trim whilst the door is shut and also even if I did manage to remove the door trim what am I missing with regards to the latch itself?
I really need the car sorted because I need to tow my caravan this weekend to a storage site and as it stands right now I'll need to immitate the Dukes of hazard. Which would be a horrible thing for everyone else to see, especially if I had to wear Daisy Dukes................
Help me Ranger Roverkenobi's, you're my only hope.
Thanks in advance.
Oh btw I'm in Scotland near Lanark.
P.S. how do I post a picture? I tried and it said something about a hyperlink.
I would like to ask a quick question, please - is it possible to find any original, white, plastic door card fasteners ? If so, is it then possible to get them to refit onto the green studs which are located in the door card ?
I noticed that when I took off the drivers' door panel today, to fit a new door handle cable, that there are four black, slide-on fasteners. Would I be right in thinking that these guys replace the original white fasteners ?
I know that these - RANGE ROVER P38 DOOR PANEL CLIPS - 20 X MWC9134 - are easily available.
Anyone else got a second p38 for parts, just in case???
Got me a 4.6HSE in the same colour today spares or repairs. It’s almost good enough to put back on the road, but has all the normal issues!!!
The intention was to use it for parts for The Duchess!
Do all the body panels bolt on? It’s very straight whereas The Duchess is covered in scratches, holes from missing light guards/mud flaps etc etc......
Bit of a problem, I'm in Yorkshire moors atm and have developed a auto gearbox problem. Its displaying different gear on the h gate to the actual gear its in. Dash display was showing correct gear. I've ordered a new h gate selector top as I suspected its whats wrong with it.
Its also just started crunching from p to r when selected and gearbox fault message on dask.
There are no fault codes stored though .
Any help appreciated
Guys, planning to do a fluid swap and general maintenance bleed on the brakes soon and replace the accumulator for good measure. This will be the first time I've played with the system, I understand to follow the RAVE instructions to the letter so no issues there.
Looking at the modulator bleed screw locations, it seems to me that the easiest way to get to them particularly the long one at the back, would be to shift the coolant tank out of the way. Reasonable?
What are people's experiences for the calipers? Wheels off and the vehicle on stands, or as easy crawling underneath, wheels on?
I thought that it would be instructive to members who live outside the UK, and more specifically, in the EU, to find out what happens now the UK is out of the EU.
I bought a replacement switchpack [ which I know that I could have got from Marty Cox, and perhaps should have done - sorry Marty] from Rimmer Bros, which has an exchange surcharge on it, and cost £244 [ €283] with the surcharge being returned, £50 or so.
The exact breakdown was, in Euro's:
Switchpack - €209.10
Surcharge - €57.96
Sub-total - €267.06
Shipping - €16.16
Total - €283.22
All very well, I know it is pretty expensive but I was looking at the idea that because it has come from Rimmer Bros then it may have been repaired by Landrover, but again perhaps not. It was a cost I was prepared to accept to make sure that my windows go back up when I put them down !! I have just fitted a spare switchpack that I got from Marty early last year and I had kept as an emergency back-up. Now I have used it.
So the "new" switchpack was delivered by UPS this morning, and with a bit of a shock. The driver said that there was €80 due to be paid, care of Irish Revenue. I had an idea that there would be something due, but €80 ???? A bit steep.
The new import rules now, after Brexit, is that anything coming into Ireland with a value of over €150 gets [a] charged 12% import duty, [b] 23% VAT, and the VAT is charged on the sub-total of the cost of the item, the 12% duty, the shipping cost, and then, on top of that, 10% handling fee by the import delivery company.
So my switchpack ended up costing €363.22 !!
That is the cost of Brexit to people outside the UK. Anything that comes into Ireland, and probably applies to the rest of the EU, is subject, over certain limits, to 12% duty and whatever VAT rate is current in the importing country, currently 23% in Ireland. It effectively means that if I want to import spares for the P38 from a tax-compliant shipper and the total purchase cost is over €150 then I need to add around 33/34% to the initial purchase price. It doesn't matter if you buy 151 items at €1 each because the total is €151 and therefore subject to duties.
I can see that, if I have to replace something expensive which has to come from the UK, then the poor old P38 will have to be got rid off as it will be too expensive to repair. And, being a P38, I suspect that day may be sooner rather than later.
And everything works
I bet it's a right hoot to drive, and a great tow car!!
Was this a feature offered when the P38 was in production?
If so, what level of tinting was offered? i.e. 80% rear? or 70% rear?
Hi everyone, now I have my 1995 P38 going with a rebuilt motor etc. the speedo has not been working. The scan tool says speed sensor input out of range or something similar. Is there any way of telling which sensor is out of range, or should I just replace them all. I have another vehicle I could pull them from. Also another problem that may be speed related. While I was working on the my P38 I thought I would replace all the air bags, and I rebuilt the compressor and the valve block. And I made up and fitted a manual inflation set of valves. And a isolation switch to cut the earth to the relay under the passenger side seat. So when I got it going the air suspension seemed to work sitting in the yard, up and down. But when I took it for a drive, when I got up a bit of speed it dropped to the bump stops. So now I am driving the vehicle with the EAS turned off as when I turn it on it now drops the drivers side down to the bump stops and pumps the passenger side up to max height. Also I have an odometer error coming up on the message screen. Could all these be related? Also the scan tool has lost communication with the vehicle.
Seen on a few forums people seem to prize stainless exhausts, but why?
Back in the 70's a mild steel exhaust might only have lasted a few years so a stainless system though more expensive could work out cheaper than changing a mild steel system a few times during the life of the vehicle. These days exhausts last a lot longer but people seem willing to fit a stainless system even on an old car, the exhaust will then outlive the car but a mild steel system fitted on an old car might also outlive the car and even if the mild steel system needed replacing once again it still might work out cheaper than the stainless system. Stainless systems look nice and shiny but you can't see the system when it's under the car and you don't worry about the look of other bits you can't see under the car...
I lumbered back the five miles from the MOT tester in low ratio.
Once home and with the message centre asking for neutral in spite of it being in neutral I replaced the new neutral switch with another new neutral switch that actually worked and on pressing the change ratio button no select neutral message but no change of ratio just flashing light.
Went underneath to look at the motor and having freed off the four bolts it tried, strongly, to rotate clockwise. Is that normal or has got stuck in low ratio somehow?
Hi, I am planning to change my old LUCAS injectors (single hole) ERR722 injectors for some 4 hole Bosch injectors (coming from germany they are easier available, than Ford ones). Does anyone have a proper part number or better the specs of the LUCAS injectors in normed flow rate and resistance for comparison? Or some Bosch part numbers, I have gotten many contradicting informations so far and hope that someone has done this with positive experience before.
thanks in advance.
Been busy so not much spare time.
Is the for sale bit still going and if so, where is it?
Poor old P38 looks like it's had a facelift too many..
And those wheels.. yuck..