Fitted the new reducer today and decided I can no longer live with the bodge job that is the 6mm copper main feed line from tank solenoid valve to reducer solenoid valve.
The cable ties to the chassis in parts, the routing in exposed areas and the ever dwindling length of the tail in the engine compartment are just some of the reasons.
As I'm going to be underneath fitting the new exhaust it seems like a fine time to get on with it.
Anyway- my questions:
After leafing through Tinley's catalogue, I've decided to go with 6mm Faro polypipe (unless 8mm would be better for a 4.6 V8 and long pipe run). Will a single run of pipe with an M10 connector direct to the outlet solenoid valve (tank end) to an M10 connector to the inlet solenoid valve (reducer end) be an acceptable standard? I'm thinking that it sounds too easy and there's probably a rule that says I have to go to solid copper pipe first at both ends or something even stranger that I haven't considered.
So- these fittings
One at each end- can it be that simple?
Pipe to be secured by P clips- that's easy, but do I secure to the chassis rails (the vertical faces!) or to the floor pan?
Chassis rails sounds best to me, although given the thickness of the metal I'll have to budget for a handful of drill bits, but where should it be fixed?
Finally (and probably my daftest question), is there a requirement to electrically bond the 2 ends of the pipe together (ie run a length of cable between them). There is on domestic plumbing where polypipe is used in conjunction with copper, for earth continuity.
Thoughts, input and experiences most welcome!
As the VSE picked up an advisory at MOT a couple of weeks ago for the exhaust being "generally heavily corroded, but structurally sound and not perforated" together with the fact that while I've been hammering around underneath doing the suspension more of the exhaust has turned to powder and dropped in my eyes, reluctantly something had to be done, so I bought one of these off the Bay
I'm not expecting much- it's bound to require some metal bashing to fit, probably going to be boy-racer loud and be made of stainless steel tinfoil, but at £250 it's not much more than the mild steel ones.
Thank you for letting me in this forum. Looking forward to nice discussions.
Proud owner of a 1998 P38 DSE.
Had to do a quick bit of welding yesterday. Well, I say quick- welding took 5 minutes, disconnecting every ECU and electronic item in the car took about 3 hours!
Being Mr Ultra Cautious and not used to welding on any car that actually has electronic modules, I followed the instruction in RAVE to:
My question- has anyone ever blown up anything electronic (or heard of it) on a P38 when just following the time honoured method of disconnecting the +ve and -ve battery leads then hitting it with the MIG?
Had my insurance renewal through for the 02 come through from Adrian Flux. As usual, they quoted an increase on last years of around £100- a premium of £270 ish fully comp.
Also as usual I phoned them up to argue the toss, as I have done every year for the past 8 years, expecting to be able to talk them down to £160 for the same policy, with the same company. Armed myself with a quick Meerkat search to see what the market was charging.
Very surprised when the Flux call-centre woman wasn't interested in doing the usual dance, even when I said I'd had quotes from Admiral, Diamond and Heritage (I think) from £169 to £ 175. Told me point blank that their quote was the best value on the market and they couldn't do any better. I asked whether that would apply to the 95 when renewal comes up next Feb ( same company, same cost) and was told it would.
So, telling her that I'd be terminating my relationship with Flux, off to Admiral on the phone.
Long story short- multi car policy for both cars, black one starting now for £145.60, blue one payable next Feb for £134.11. Same excesses, protected NCB etc.
Happy (ish) days!
Found myself looking at my current desk paperweight and thinking it could have come out of an engineering shop any time in the last 100 years looking exactly the same
I've noticed a new damp patch appearing under the front of my car - it's a completely clear liquid that feels oily to touch and quickly goes tacky/sticky if I rub it between my fingers.
A very quick look under the front bumper shows it appears to be dripping from the bottom of the front diff - I don't know if it's coming from the diff itself or if it's dripping on to the diff from somewhere above. It seems fairly rapid leak - I was parked up at the side of the road for a couple of hours today and noticed a pool under the drip site about 15-20cm in diameter.
I just can't think what would be completely clear and oily - I'd expect any oil that was coming from the diff or inside something else with moving parts would be at least a little bit dirty. I've not put any fresh liquids in recently (besides a coolant top up - but that's red).
Engine, diff and transmission oils were done months ago but again, engine and transmission oil aren't clear. Not sure what colour the diff oil was though.
Any ideas what my mystery fluid could be?
Was rooting around in the kitchen drawer today for a cork for the other job and found my other car key.
Says key 2 on the back and lights up when you press the button.
Won't unlock or lock the car with the buttons but it'll start the engine.
Thought by sticking it in the ignition it would re-sync but no.
Do you know how to get it going again?
Just checked my oii and it needs topping up.
Tried to undo the filler cap and found the whole filler tube spinning in the rocker cover.
Is the tube screwed/clipped in or is it supposed to be part of the rocker cover?
I'll have to find something to hold the tube still so I can undo the cap now.
As the old blue one has become the other half's daily driver, I thought I'd better get the slow puncture in the front tyre repaired. It's had it since I bought the car and never really bothered me, I just gave it a blast of air every week or so at the workshop.
Dropped wheel off at local tyre wizard, expecting to have to boost their tea fund in exchange for having the bead area on the rim polished and was surprised when I went to collect to be told that they wouldn't fix it and in their opinion, it was bloody dangerous.
Found this damage to tyre around the bead wires and inside the seating area:
They'd never seen anything quite like it before, neither have I.
Best guess would be that when the tyre was initially fitted, the oik that did it misused the tyre machine that pushed the tyre onto the rim and somehow ripped/ tore the rubber without breaking the bead wires. None of the missing rubber was inside the tyre and it would have no way of getting out.
Of course, the next problem was finding a single Grabber AT2 of the appropriate 16" size to replace it. No chance of that, could get a new AT3 for £130 (!) but I'm old fashioned and think tyres should match on axles, as well as being skint and not wanting to pay that sort of cash.
Managed to track down a good used on the bay for £48. I'll see how good and used it is when it turns up tomorrow.
Moral of the story- if it ain't broke, don't fix it...
After a fair bit of tramping up and down my favourite dual carriageway hill in the '02, at 500 rpm increments I've got the LPG mapping as close as I feel I can. Stable trims, good lambdas etc.
Normal road driving its trims are stable and don't wander off after periods of LPG running.
Which is great, except when running on LPG on foot to the floor acceleration it's way down on power to the extent that switching back to petrol during the exercise is like hitting turbo boost.
It's obviously (well, to me anyway) running weak on full throttle.
If I increase the LPG maps by any significant % to richen it up, it throws out the trims for "normal" driving.
Any ideas anyone?
There is a 4wd rolling road dyno in Plymouth, but it seems like a very expensive exercise, not to mention the mirth it'll cause among the Scooby/ Evo drivers who seem to be resident in the building!
Yet another job to add to the list.
Heater isn't blowing all that hot. Had it set to "Hi" and although it's warm, it should be a lot warmer. Same both drivers and passenger side.
No book symbols.
Coolant level looks ok.
Bit of a shitty trip 😣
The EAS compressor started sounding rattly and then the EAS just got lower and lower. No faults, and I haven't got the 35mph warning yet.
I'm guessing it is the pump, but how do I check it? I'm going to have to move fast to get a replacement if it's the fault.
As some of you already know I recently fitted one of the very nicely made, twin core, alloy radiators (one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIRENZA-TWIN-CORE-ALUMINIUM-RADIATOR-RAD-FOR-LAND-RANGE-ROVER-P38-V8-4-0-4-6-94/350591602189) and have been extremely pleased with it. But I decided to be a bit more scientific (anal?) than simply watching the gauge on the dash and the last few days gave me the chance to try it. Having one car that needed to be trailered to the south of France and another to come back, I sat the Nanocom on the passenger seat and monitored the coolant temperature. Now obviously we don't want an engine to overheat but it does need to be within the correct range. Running at a constant speed with ambient at around 22 degrees, it sat at 87 degrees, on that way back last night when ambient got down to 3 degrees, it had dropped to 86. Slogging up some of the hills, it crept up and the highest I saw was 91. Interestingly, giving it a big boot full of throttle so it kicked down and the revs were up at around 3,000 rpm, caused the temperature to actually drop rather than go up as I had expected so it proves the water pump and viscous fan are doing their job. On a long downhill with a closed throttle at about 70 mph and I saw it drop (as low as 79 on one occasion) as you would expect.
Then for the real test. The car I was bringing back had to be picked up on Saturday but I wasn't due to set off for home until Sunday (yesterday) afternoon so it had to be taken up to my mates place after we'd picked it up. Now he lives just over 2,000 feet up the side of a mountain and the access is a very narrow, potholed stone with the odd bit of concrete, forest track that rises 1,850 feet in two miles as it winds it's way up the side of the mountain, including two very steep hairpins. So with this
hooked up to the back, I stuck it in low (not a cat in hell's chance of getting up some of the steeper bits with that amount of weight on the back in high) and set off for the top. The temperature started off at 87 and started to rise as I made the engine work for a living. By the time I was halfway to the top, it was up to 94 but didn't go any higher and started to drop back as soon as I let the engine idle for a few seconds. That was all on LPG too when all the naysayers will tell you it'll ruin your engine as it burns hotter than petrol. Later we decided to check my mates P38 (another 98 GEMS only a 4.6 compared with my 4.0 litre). By comparison, his runs at 94 when running but rises very quickly when sitting in traffic to the point that the Nanocom got grossly offended when it hit 100 degrees compared with mine that stays at 87 no matter how long I left it idling. So we reckon that his cooling is a bit marginal and, as the water pump is new, his radiator is likely due for replacement in the not too distant but what should they run at? I think we can safely say his is running a bit too hot, or at least getting a bit hot when left idling but is mine running too cool?
Just done heads on a 4.6, noticed that the gear shift was flashing, just want to confirm my diagnosis which is xyz switch is knackered, couldn’t actually get the gear shift into low to try and shock it, apparently it’s been like it a while and drives ok, so I’m thinking the xyz has moved but not fully.
Answers on a postcard please
I had an Airbag Fault message on the Instrument Cluster Display (can't think of the conventional nomenclature at present) and went about unplugging and cleaning and re-plugging sensors. Turned out it was the crash sensor under the battery tray of my 02 RR P38 4.6 HSE LHD. With a contact cleaning, the message went away.
I don't drive the RR except on Friday-Sunday. I started getting the Airbag Fault message again. I'm thinking that if your battery is low (like from sitting), it will cause a trigger for the last fault you actually had, even though it is not really a current fault. It is just a low battery. Any thoughts?
Saw this during a BBC documentary last night and it got me thinking- are there any notable people who actually own and run P38's, apart from.....
Nile Rodgers- songwriter, musician and producer- one of my heroes
Had new radius arm bushes and wot not fitted about 2 months ago.
Took car to be tracked. Seemed pretty good after but within a week or so, i'd decided that it drifted too much to the left. Holding the wheel straight, you can feel the slight tension of it wanting to go left.
I've had other problems to be getting on with since such as the EAS fiasco and working doesn't always give me the time to get over to the garage. It was on my to do list.
Then i found that my draglink ball joint had loads of play in it so i thought that i may had found the problem. Replaced it and although better, didn't cure it. Found the time to take it back to the garage who said that it drove straight when they test drove it. I told them that it's not in my interest to make things up and i insisted that they get it on the lift and investigate. When they did, they said that it had been tracked to just over+1. I told them that they had tracked it the wrong way as it should be 0.6-1.8 of toe out. They also pointed out that the balljoint on the other end of my draglink was split. This was news to me as it appeared to be in good nick when i did the other end. They said there was no point in adjusting the tracking until i'd sorted the draglink. Agreeing (i thought) with the manager that they would sort it out for me when i fixed it, I took it away and fitted a full new draglink.
Took the car back yesterday and was duly informed that as i'd had radius arm bushes done, that i was the cause of the poor tracking and not them. I explained that the radius arms were done before the tracking but they wouldn't have it and said i'd have to pay for it to be tracked. I argued that they'd done it wrong in the first place as it was tracked the wrong way. Getting nowhere, i said i'd just pay and for them to sort it. Up it went on the lift and sure enough, i was still tracked to just over +1. They adjusted it to -0.6 and off we went for a test drive. Still the same so i suggested that they take it to the limit and see what happens. Adjusted it to -1.8, took it for a drive and still no different.
Next the bloke asks me how i want to pay. Told him i couldn't pay for it as they hadn't tracked it. He said they'd adjusted it. We went round in circles for a while and all this time i had my 8 year old with me so had to concede to paying. Announcing that i'd be back with bells on to speak to the manager on Monday and haggle further for a refund.
So i'm feeling a little hard done by here and i'm still no further forward. From my point of view i'venot touched anything or fitted anything that can be attributed to cocking up the tracking. The garage tracked it wrong in the first instance so the adjustment should be free. However, now they've adjusted it to the outside limit and it's still no different perhaps points to something else other than tracking causing the problem which i can't blame them for. Although, since it's literally 5 minutes to get it up in the air and turn the bolt, i would have expected them to not charge me and just say, sorry we're unable to track it.
A point to note is that they only adjusted the trackrod bar. At no point did they touch the draglink. Is that right? I would have assumed it should all be slacked off to begin with.
Where can i go from here? I'm pretty sure my steering box is centred as i checked this a couple of months back when i first had it tracked.
While I've been working my way around the doors, I've been cutting the Orange/ pink wire between the latch and outstations to disable the Superlock motor feed.
Looking at the wiring diagram though, I'm wondering whether I should have cut both Superlocking motor wires at the latch.
Have I just created a problem for myself by cutting the one wire and now have a system that'll Superlock and not unlock?
Doesn't look like it, but I do like to second guess myself occasionally.
Hi. Does anyone have the details on relocating the relay with pictures. Any help would be very much appreciated.