Peeps, are there any recommended LED replacements for the rear bulbs? I'm getting intermittent winging about brake and tail lights... And before I go in there I'd rather get wine more permanent replacements.
Thanks!

Here's one I have not heard or read about.
I am bringing my latest acquisition, a 2002 Borrego (Love the yellow ones!) back from a serious period of "benign neglect".
It had a myriad of issues, too many to list for the moment.........
Working on the A/C today and went for a test drive. As I was fiddling with the trip computer, it gave me an implausible range to empty
figure, so I looked at mpg. 64.5mpg.WOW! so I did a reset, and after the calibration period, it came up with 99.9mpg and
that is where it stayed for the remainder of the trip. So cool to have a Rangie with a 2000+ mile range!.......Yea, Right!
Average speed reading was correct.
Anyone know where it is doing the calculations? I figured Becm, but really have no idea.
It was working when I drove it the 350 miles from Washington to Oregon and showed a very believable Mpg number for that trip.
Since then, I have fiddled with the footwell plugs, and a couple of Becm plugs.
Any insights will be very welcome!
At least the A/C is now working as well!

The previous owner gutted the cigarette lighter in favour for USB ports. This isn’t ideal as I can’t use a tyre inflate for the front wheels lol.

Will a generic cigarette lighter be a snug fit?
https://ebay.us/m/5ddEL9

I’m trying to reduce the wind noise by trying things in no particular order.

This could very well be a waste of money, but I’ve seen a set on eBay from a seller I’ve never heard of, so this could be poor quality.

https://ebay.us/m/ufnRaW

Has anyone successfully replaced their door seals with something of quality?

These are left over from my 2002 P38.

8Jx18

Are these right for a late P38 (with the non ribbed leather seats)?

Only asking as I can't find these on the usual auction sites.

Many thanks

Keith

Hi all,

It's a while since I've been on here, the P38 has had a few bits done here and there, like blend motors, but in general for the last couple of years it's all be fine.

A couple of weeks ago I noticed a new ticking noise. It seems to be from the passenger side, it's not there when you first start the engine from cold, but starts after a couple of minutes, once it warms up.

A few years ago I partly stripped the engine down, to replace head gaskets, camshaft, lifters, etc and installed reconditioned heads from V8 developments, since then other than a noise that I've posted on here about before and seems to be somewhat common, it's been smooth and quiet.
Yesterday I did an oil change, as it is almost a year since the last one, despite only doing a couple of thousand miles since the last one. I hoped that fresh oil might have been all that way needed and the ticking would disappear, however unfortunately not.

Like most, I always have slipped liners in the back of my mind whenever I hear a noise that shouldn't be there. So to be sure, I did a quick coolant exhaust gases test with the coloured dye (was fine) and also checked all the spark plugs on the passenger side, but all were the same, no signs of water getting in. Plus when I had head gasket issues previously, I had coolant loss from over pressurising, a misfire and things, which I guess you'd expect if the issue was liner related.
At the moment other than the ticking noise everything seems to be okay, it runs fine and not using any coolant or oil.
Today I took the rocker cover off and then removed the rocker shaft, as I thought maybe it had a crack or damage, but I couldn't see anything wrong with it.

So I don't really know what to try next, the lifters were all new when I rebuilt it with the new camshaft, so I'd hope it wasn't a lifter, but I guess it could be. It could also still be the rocker arms or shaft too I guess. Worst case it could be a slipped liner, slapping up and down?

Here is a video of the noise, when warmed up, and with a gentle few revs - https://youtu.be/rVi6JLTqwg4?si=xwTyQqunoY5GN4s7

Any ideas what I should try next or anyone had similar?

Strange one this. The EAS operates normally, or so I believe, but if I park on a slope with the left side of the vehicle lower than the right the EAS system seems to do its hourly assessment and lowers the left front suspension down a bit . . . each and every hour until it is at access height or thereabouts but never sets it all the way down onto the bump stops. It also then starts trying to level the rest of the vehicle on the hour, every hour but never lets the vehicle get down on the bump stops.

I'm convinced it's not a leak because a) it never does it if parked on the level - it remains as parked for days with n'er a movement in the suspension; b) you can hear the EAS controller operating the valve block when it does its wake up call lowering the vehicle; and c) it never does it if the right hand side is on the downsdie of a slope.

I am at a loss to explain it and can only think the front left height sensor must be playing tricks but when on the move it all operates correctly between the various ride heights!

Anyone able to shed light on this odd behaviour?

After my recent issues with two failing brake light switches generating an ABS FAULT & TRACTION FAILURE I thought my problem was fixed.

https://rangerovers.pub/topic/3982-abs-fault-traction-failure-fixed

Unfortunately I am fairly regularly getting ABS FAULT & TRACTION FAILURE while driving along. This isn't every journey or even every day but probably once every two or three times I take the car out. There is nothing I have seen that will definitely generate the fault e.g. it's not when I turn right or go over a bump. It can occur at any time but I drove 500 miles from Brittany to south of Biarritz & didn't get the error once. The brake light still works & the brakes seem powerful enough although I have never been in a situation where I needed the ABS when the fault is displayed.

If I switch off the engine the fault is cleared. There is no fault stored. If I connect the Nanocom while the fault is displayed then I cannot connect to the ABC ECU. It's probably one of the ABS sensors giving an intermittent false reading that the ECU cannot handle so it throws the fault but it's not easy to figure out which one. The whole right front hub with wheel bearing was replaced a couple of months ago so that's probably favourite.

The fault is occurring more often so I need to attend to it before it's permanent but does anyone have suggestions as to how I might identify the culprit? Of course it may not even be a wheel speed sensor but is the ABS ECU throwing a wobbly. Ideas...???

hi guys will be towing my caravan soon for weekends away and a holiday been looking at mirror extensions for my discovery 4 MY2010 just wondering what people would recommend
thanks again

A while ago I swapped the whole rear axle in my 4.6 with one off a breaker. Although the nose bearing wasn't actually allowing the input shaft to flap about like the one I took off, it did have a bit of play and the diff emitted quite a lot glitter when I dropped the oil out.

A few thousand miles later and while it hasn't really got any louder, it also hasn't got any quieter, so I'm thinking about just changing the diff out. However, it looks like 2-pin rear diffs are far cheaper than 4-pin ones, which were fitted to the 4.6es with traction control.

Now opinion seems to vary on how much of a difference this makes. Ashcrofts want to sell you a 4-pin and seem very keen that people don't run 2-pin diffs. On other forums opinion seems split between "yes a 2-pin will break as soon as you pull away gently on dry tarmac" to "never seen one break yet and I tow artics through wet sand for fun". The "it'll break instantly" posts do seem correlated with people who post pics of their Landies with massive tyres and mud up to the headlights.

So I turn it over to the sensible crowd. Does it actually make that much of a difference?

I have got quite a while had a weird buzzing vibrating noise which seems to eminate from behind the dash or around the lower scuttle area. It appears once you exceed around 50-60mph and will sometimes fluctuate if it's windy, so it's presumably airflow related.

I realised the foam thing had disintegrated and assumed the wire retainer was loose causing the noise, so I ordered a filter and today took everything apart.

Found various issues, multiple missing screws and bad clips etc. so went thru it all meticulously, replaced the foam, reinstalled all the clips and reinstalled all the missing screws.

Quite chuffed with myself I set off to get some lunch and the damn noise is still there.

Any ideas what it might be?

I've been trying to find a similar topic for an answer to this one, but can't see the same issue in other posts, so am looking for a bit of a steer (or a link!)

When I start my p38 in the morning the ABS pump runs as normal when I turn the ignition on, pressurises the system then stops. The three warning lights on the bottom left of the dash go out as normal, braking system seems to work fine. When starting it a second time if I've been out anywhere, no ABS pump on ignition just silence and the warning lights stay on. If it's driven then the brakes start to go spongey after a mile or so, I assume as the system loses pressure. Sometimes if I turn the engine off and turn the ignition back on then I can get the pump to run, system pressurises, the lights go out and it's ok again. The next morning on cold start it starts as normal, no issues. It's only started happening in the last week after a 500+ mile round trip. There's plenty fluid in the reservoir and I can't see any leaks and clearly the pump motor works, albeit intermittently.

I don't have a diagnostic tool, so am guessing a bit and my usual garage can't look at it for a couple of weeks. Has anyone had a similar experience of an intermittent fault or know what it's likely to be - relay, pressure switch, accumulator or pump motor starting to fail?

Many thanks in advance, if anyone's got any ideas.
Jim

Hi @all,

I want to build a "tool" to manually enter or simulate the EKA procedure activation of the microswitches in the drivers side door lock. Like a switchboard with three? sitches for cdl, left and right. I have seen two versions online, one with three wires and one with four. As nearly everything on the p38 is switched by grounding, I guess I need four wires for three switches?
I plan to build a "switchboard" and use a door outstation connector from a spare wirking loom.
Can anyone help me with a diagramm of the circuit?
It´s for the early versions of the becm where You can´t enter the eka by the obd-connector.
Thanks in advance!

I saw this P38 for sale in the forum I frequent for my Disco. The ad looks good. It's in London so it could be of interest to some of you.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/range-rover-p38-2nd-gen-56/classic-range-rover-p38-sale-128017/#post945601

Dear all, I have just purchased a very original unmolested P38 packed with factory optional extras. It really is fully loaded with rare options. The only one I don't recognize and can't determine if it's factory is a sunglasses holder over the driver's seat in the grab handle recess. It genuine and fits perfectly. Looking through an accessories brochure I can't seem to find it. Any thoughts?

It's done it twice over around 8 pushes of the button in the last week so needs looking at , never done it before although the lower tailgate plays up more, I've got a finger hole to open that when/if it plays up. The upper always releases until now. Luckily, I read somewhere that a slap on or near the reg plate can release it and it does. Everything looks good but I lubed the movey bits anyway(lower tailgate, carpet panel removed). The button and spring is spotless ,electrical connections the same. Obviously being intermittent it's a pita to trouble shoot. The slap is causing whatever is faulty at that point to start working again, any tips on what needs looking at lads?

I damaged the PCB whilst attempting to replace the case with one from China.

This meant my ENGINE DISABLED message was awaiting my presence once I attempted to start the car.
What was new to me was seeing "or Enter Key Code" after "PRESS REMOTE".

Now, I know my EKA code. This worked. The car started. Attempting to do it again, I no longer saw "or Enter Key Code". The car is not accepting my EKA code. I don't see a lockout error, but I only see "PRESS REMOTE" Do I have to wait? I've not been locked out from entering the key..

As most of you know, or at least will have gathered, I have virtually no knowledge of diesel engines. However the is one diesel P38 that I have done a few jobs on for the owner in France. Most have been simple, routine, for me anyway, stuff but now I need some help. The owner needs to sell the car as she is moving from France to Ireland and a French registered, LHD, P38 will fetch decent money in France but be a liability in Ireland with their incredibly high registration fees and road tax.

There's a couple of little electrical and cosmetic jobs that I was intending on going over to sort out so she can advertise it but it has recently developed a fuel leak. She took it into a local garage who told her it needs a new fuel pump at €2,000 plus labour to fit it. This is what is visible Diesel leak.

Can anyone tell me where it is likely to be leaking from, is it repairable or is it a new pump job and, if it is, how easy/difficult a job is it (I understand the pump needs to be timed)? The current options are that I go over to sort this and the other things or, if it is going to involve major surgery by someone that knows the P38 diesel engine, I go over with a trailer and get it back here to be fully sorted.

Well, I got The Duchess valeted because I was driving over to the continent and taking some colleagues to a meeting when I got there. I'm hoping that the local carwash guys got a bit excited with the water.. but I suspect I might have something else going on!

After about 30m of driving, I braked quite hard for something and immediately the horn started and I had to hit it again to switch it off. Most odd! Then I turned the wipers on and the horn stayed on, the wipers wouldn't switch off and then the alarm decided to join in. The dashboard backlights also dimmed in time to the wipers, which was quite trippy.

So, I did what anyone else would do and turned the radio up so I could keep moving and didn't miss the ferry. I did a quick restart in a laybay which brought the wipers back under control but hilariously, a single sweep would beep the horn whenever the wipers moved through the park position. Then the alarm started again, it ran for 5-10 minutes at a time before shutting off for another 5 monutes or so. Luckily, nobody in Hull seems to notice cars being driven with their alarms going, so I was able to keep going without getting arrested. I stopped at a garage, switched everything off and filled up with fuel (because adding LPG and Petrol to faulty electrics is how I roll). The Duchess decided to behave perfectly after that and didn't miss a beat for the next three days (and still counting).
Judging by the bits that were affected, I'm wondering if I need to think about replacing the clock spring in the steering column, or whether I just chalk it up to the joys of damp Range Rovers and keep on trucking. The worrying option would be the fuse box - does anyone have an idea where I should look to make sure this isn't something that is likely to set an airbag off, or leave me stranded?

hi folks I know it not a p38 range rover.
my 2010 3ltr disco 4 is bringing up suspension fault it looks like the front has sagged down.
now I presume it would be the same set up as a p38 as it on air bags front and rear.
so was wondering is there a way I can put air in the system to check if the air bags are leaking?
could I also be able to check air pressure from the compressor
thank you for your help