In the realm of luxury and might,
Where elegance meets off-road's delight,
There roams a majestic chariot grand,
With prowess and style, across the land.

Behold the P38 Range Rover, esteemed,
A legend of engineering, it gleamed.
Its silhouette strong, a timeless design,
With grace and power, a sight so fine.

Adorned in metal, shining with pride,
Its curves and edges, a symphony's ride.
A conqueror, it treads on rugged terrains,
Unyielding to obstacles, breaking all chains.

The engine roars, a symphony untamed,
Unleashing its might, it cannot be tamed.
A beast within, with horses that surge,
Propelling forward, with each tire's urge.

Inside, a sanctuary of lavish repose,
Fine leather caresses, where comfort flows.
Crafted with care, the cabin's allure,
Whispers of luxury, so pure and sure.

Technological marvels at every touch,
A seamless fusion, oh, it's all too much.
From panoramic views to infotainment divine,
A realm of innovation, where wonders entwine.

Through sunlit days or moonlit nights,
The P38 Range Rover paints vibrant sights.
From city streets to nature's domain,
It conquers all realms, no challenge in vain.

Oh, P38 Range Rover, majestic and bold,
You capture our hearts, as stories unfold.
A symbol of adventure, grace, and might,
Forever embedded in memories bright.

(courtesy of ChatGPT)

Changed the thermostat on my 2001 P38.
Had an absolute b%$%ard time trying to get an air lock out of it. I did every single technique written about “burping” the P38 but no luck. Vehicle kept creeping up to overheat and the thermostat would not open.
Finally I decided to drill a 3mm hole in the shutoff valve on the thermostat. I made sure that the hole was at highest point in the thermostat where it sat once installed. This allowed any trapped air that was between bottom of radiator feeding into the lower chamber of thermostat to escape. Issue I had prior was that there was air trapped her restricting the thermostat from opening….. that’s my assumption….. It may just be luck.
BUT….Success and now the thermostat opens…

The the "radio" isn't working from any source. Total silence. It made a very loud pop in all speakers (esp the subwoofer) when I turned on the ignition a few days ago and hasn't worked since.

I checked all the under seat fuses. All good

I assume I've blown up my main amp and a professional installer has told me a) they blow up often, chiefly due to water damage b) Harman Kardon units are NOT repairable.

Prices on eBay are wild... From £50 to £300.

Please tell me what I need to know...

the issue with the idle is it keeps revving up to around 1500rpm and stays there . ive reset the adaptive values and it corrects it's self until it cools down or is left over night then reset values again and all is good until next time . i have done this 5 or 6 times and i think if it was a reset issue it should have corrected it self by now as it started after i replaced my o2 sensors. the o2 sensors are reading correctly and all is working ok when it's reset, it just keeps going back to revving for some reason , has anyone else had a similar issue . thanks in advance.

my intermittent wipers are only doing one speed , is this a switch issue or a relay issue . i had a look at rave and the potentiometer is in the stork (switch)on the steering column and there is a relay in the engine fuse box , which is the most likely culprit here or is it something completely different. thanks in advance.

I had the A/C recharged & it's working perfectly now. We have hot weather in Brittany at present but it's nice & icy in the car. The problem is that icy water is dripping down in the passenger footwell (RHD). I have been under the car to clear the A/C drains & managed to poke a screwdriver into both but I wasn't rewarded with an of armful of muck & dirty water. There is water dripping from both drains although there is more from the right hand (driver's side) drain.
Am I missing something? Do I need a longer screwdriver or do I need to start taking the dashboard out to make sure the A/C drains are connected properly at the top end?

Just pondering really. A friend has a 2001 bordoux although it's not spelt like that I don't think. Mine is dhse so has heated seats, leccy seats, heated front windscreen etc. His has non of this and never has but his hvac has all the buttons for these features same as mine. Would LR fit the same panel regardless? Or his is a replacement from a breaker because the original failed?

I have a 2001 BOSCH 4.6.
I am suspecting that the 4 pin temperature sensor located on top of engine that I recently replaced is faulty or calibrated incorrectly. My engine has Secondary Air Injection and the only temperature sensor I can find (Part number MEK100160) is for non Secondary Air Injection vehicles. My current sensor looks the exact same with 4 pins etc.
I can’t find a part number for the sensor associated with the SAI system engines.
Does anyone know if it will make a difference if I use this sensor instead of a sensor that’s for SAI engines?

My headlight units don't match. I have got one silver and one black headlight. It has been like that for a bit and I thought it about time I changed out the silver one. I have bought a good black headlight but with a broken housing. The headlight itself is OK.

I thought, no problem, I will take out the original headlight assembly from the car complete with the housing then fit the replacement headlight off the car. However, I have run into a few snags. I can't get the old headlight assembly off the car. One of the bolts in front of the battery is rusted solid as well as hard to get at. It won't take a socket and really needs drilling out (not keen). Plan B is to separate the new headlight from the broken housing and fit just the headlight to the housing still on the car.
The headlight has 3 brass adjusting screws which form ball and socket joints at the rear of the headlight. The brass ball sits in a nylon cup in the plastic.
What is the proper way to separate these? it looks as though they just lever out but I don't want to damage it. Rave does not cover it.

Having replaced the heater core, I put everything back together again, like Humpty Dumpty, and now the thing “appears” to have an air lock.
Symptoms are the NANOCOm is giving me a warning when its plugged in the the temp is going above 100C. I shut vehicle down and drained radiator and entire system from nut at bottom of rad. Refilled system again following steps in RAVE. Started up…. Same issue NANOCOM not happy with 100C.
After numerous various methods of bleeding system and usually getting the steady stream from top of radiator nipple I was still getting NANOCOM 100C warning.
I then replaced Thermostat and water pump but the problem is still there.
Bottom of thermostat is ambient temp, top is hot. Bottom of radiator is ambient and hose to top is hot. Running the heater gives heat so long as there is high RPM.
Is there a way to bleed this bleed in vehicle that’s tried and true? I’m at my wits end with it.

On our last road trip we had the duct work dumping quite a bit of condensation on our feet as we were driving.

Is this clogged evaporator drains or something else? Where should I be looking? Just the drains behind the front tires?

Hi I’m new on this forum and recently bought a nice old p38… yeah it’s slow..2.5 engine with over sized wheels but I really like it and would like to pick someone’s brain about stereo wiring.. any takers?

What does this mean? Also ENGINE DIABLED. I tried my EKA with the door key, nothing, no lights flashing. I entered my EKA into Nanocom. It says Nanocom has instructed the BeCM to reset the alarm state, but dash still gives the same warnings. My fob lights flash when I press them, but the car doesn’t recognize anything.

I could have put this in the 'What Have You Done To Your Range Rover Today" thread but thought that this deserves a dedicated post.

I changed the oil on my P38 yesterday & was confused regarding the torque setting for the sump plug. It's listed in RAVE as 45 Nm for up to 99MY & 32 Nm for 99MY onwards. The sump is the same & so is the sump plug so why the difference? I think that it must be due to the different crush washer. Originally the crush washer was copper then was replaced with an aluminium washer. My engine has just been rebuilt by V8 Developments & had a copper washer on the sump plug. I replaced it with a new copper washer & tightened up to 45 Nm so I hope that I have done the right thing.

The front passenger door will not open from the inside handle or the outside handle, when you open from the inside the actual door lock unlocks but the door dose not open . i have tried to remove door card but that's not possible unless you destroy the card as it is behind the rubber door seal. i am not familiar with this model as it's not my car , the owner has asked me to look at it for him as no one will touch it, eg it's a range rover . if ripping the door card is how it's done then i will do that , dose anyone have a better way of doing this, open to any ideas.

My HVAC has been getting increasingly reluctant to change temps and the passenger side is now stuck on Hi. Given that it's simple to remove the unit, how hard is it to do whatever Marty did 5 years ago to make the buttons work again? Or is there anyone in the market doing replacements?
Cheers!

Sooz car is flattening its battery every couple of days. I've invested in a Kaiweets HT206D Amp Clamp and nerfed the bonnet switch so everything sleeps with the bonnet up. The pattern after leaving the car double locked over an hour is 0.25-0.35 for 2 mins, then 0.80-090 for 2.5 minutes. My plan is to pull each fuse during the high drain phase to see when it drops, and by how much.

1 Does anyone recognise this pattern?

2 How do I bypass the driver's side door switch to test the ones under the seat if the under-bonnet fuses don't reveal a problem?

Hi all,

I've been trying to track down a leak into the cable channel by the drivers front door (next to the BECM). After a soaking with the hose I've found that the water is getting under the door seal and then dripping off into the channel containing the cables.

The seal is in good condition, pushed fully against the metal and is mounted correctly so I'm not sure how it's managing to get past the seal. New seals seem to no longer be available. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to try next? I guess glue or sealant is an option but I'd like to be able to remove it again in the future if needed so I'm not sure what type to use.

No doubt as a reminder of previous current drain issues, I have a battery isolator switch - without a working key fob, is there a way to avoid or minimise any risk of the alarm going off when unlocking and reconnecting the battery?

I'm chasing an "RHF air gap too large" fault, but working on the LH sensor because nano shows that that is the wheel that starts moving later than the others. To be sure that I knew which wheel nano was reporting for sure, I struck on the idea of disconnecting the LH sensor to prove that it was that wheel triggering the fault. Unfortunately i just got the error "e2" straight after. I reconnected the sensor, but now it doesn't respond at all (well, not sure it was responding before tbh), reports e2 or occasionally "e1"...and the faults message is back to RHF air gap too large

Any clues?