rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.

News

Recommendations

Looking for what to use to clean the walnut trim back to something shiny, I’ve seen 3 stage cleaners/ polishes on eBay, has anyone used them ?



Plug Leads

Opened the bonnet on the VSE tonight when it was running and heard a TICK, TICK, TICK.

Looked down the side of the engine and saw a spark jumping between the plug and the manifold heat shield. Upon closer inspection, someone has cut the boot on the spark plug level with the end of the connector that goes onto the plug so the spark is escaping. I'd of thought I'd have felt that but it's near perfect when driving.

Anyway... onto the subject of new plug leads.

Our old 4.6 HSE has Magnecor Plug leads on it and they've been great, they've probably been on for 6 - 7 years now.

I'm probably going to for Magnecor leads to this VSE as well unless anyone has any other suggestions? I'm now torn between the 8mm Electrosport 80's or KV85 8.5mm red leads.

Anyone got any suggestions?

David.



Finally got something from Britpart that fits properly and works well!

Britpart



RR Sport Wheels on P38

OK, so my P38 has had the tracking out for some time. including before I got it, hence the front right tyre is bald on the inside. Tyres at £100 each got me thinking and I have landed a set of 19" Range Rover Sport wheels with new Dunlop Winter tyres for a whopping £165! I doesn't come with the spigots or nuts.

I presume that these would be right from eBay...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Spigot-Rings-Discovery-4-Wheels-to-Range-Rover-P38-70-1MM-72-6MM/161579293772?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D5063aaa253734e8aafbc5685dc303a84%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D331489305489&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598

or these (BritPart probably no better)

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/wheel-adaptor-rings-fitting-l322-wheels-da2075-da6343-p-4740.html

However I am not sure on nuts, I believe the openings for the nuts on the wheels on a RRS are smaller then the P38 so I need a full set of new nuts. The only thing I have found is this..

http://www.lrparts.net/spigot-rings-and-wheel-nuts-with-locking-nuts-to-fit-sport-l322-wheels-to-p38-or-discovery-2.html

Is there anyone that can advise what I need. Once I have the wheels on I will get the tracking done and the car looked over.

But again not sure if the nuts will be right.



New, baffling problem - won't rev.

So after doing the head gasket my 4.0 GEMS idles beautifully and actually performs not too badly - up to about 2500rpm, at which point it start spluttering and generally won't rev beyond that. It's the same on petrol or gas. There's a fault code stored for the camshaft sensor according to my cheapy ELM327, but when I look at the appropriate pin with the sillyscope I can see the correct two short two long squarewave pulses, looking just like the picture in the manual.

One of the lambda sensors seems a bit lazy, but it was like that before I started working on the engine.

What have I missed here?



Alpine radio

I’ve just been offered an alpine head unit, with code and manual, £75.
If anyone’s interested let me know ASAP



One of the many reasons I love having a P38!

Spent a couple of nights up in Yorkshire recently, and had a great time!

Was nice to cruise about in the RR - especially when coming to a flooded road along our route. When we came back the other way, the road was actually closed to all traffic, so was lucky to give the underside of the RR a clean in one direction at least! Suspension up to wading height and carry on!... saw the Citroen thing in the rear view mirror decide to turn around as I was heading off down the road.

My lovely co-pilot took a video of us going through it:
Flooded Road in P38

Then decided to take a cruise up and over a couple of the mountains, and managed to get a few pictures on the way up... most of them don't show it, but it was chucking with rain and blowing a gale... I didn't mind though, made the drive more interesting!

Skinny road

Wet wet wet

More narrow roads

Queen of the mountain

Queen of the mountain 2

As you can see in the last picture, you can just pick out the sideways rain in the headlights!

I'll have a look and see how good the recording was on the dashcam, but managed to attack some pretty big puddles in the road too - think a couple of times I managed to splash the roof!

Marty



cert expired again

Just so you know :)
Morat



Not a bad road trip

In answer to those that think a P38 is unreliable, we got back home about 5:30 this morning after a completely uneventful run.

enter image description here

Opened the bonnet twice in that time, once when I arrived in Latvia and again when I got home. No coolant loss, minimal drop in oil level and nothing else needed any attention. The trip meter is actually 153 miles short as I forgot to reset it until I was getting off the ferry in Calais on my way out. The new set of Vredestein Quatrac 5 tyres fitted before leaving seem pretty damn good. Didn't get the chance to try them in anger on snow but in the wet (of which there was plenty....), they gave a lot more feel to the steering than the Goodyears that were on it before.

Economy was pretty amazing too. I know the LPG sold in the UK is 100% Propane and in Europe it is usually a blend of Propane and Butane which, in theory (due to the stoichiometric ratio for Butane being lower) should mean you use less but I wouldn't have thought it would have made this much difference. Pumps are going to vary so a fill isn't always going to stop at exactly the same amount but by dividing mileage with fill quantity would give me a miles per litre figure. If this was then multiplied by 4.54 would give an mpg figure or by multiplying by 67 litres would give range on a full tank. Every fill was good, and there were quite a lot of them, but would you believe 228.2 miles on 59.29 litres? That's 3.85 miles per litre, or 17.5 mpg, and a theoretical range of 257 miles. That was cruising at anything between 65 and 80 mph (depending on traffic) through Germany, Holland and into Belgium. The gas pump I filled from in Germany had a label on it showing that in summer it gave 40/60 Propane/Butane and in winter 60/40 Propane/Butane but how much of an effect that would have I've no idea. No matter, it still worked out cheaper on fuel than it would have cost the two of us to fly there and back.

Just got to clean it now, it's absolutely filthy!



Is it headgasket time?

She's been using a bit of coolant recently, not sure how much if I'm honest. I should have been measuring it. There's definitely a leak on the LPG reducer and the head -> expansion bottle return judging by the pink stains. However, today she overheated and took 1.5l of de-ionised water before the levels came back.

I've noticed what I think is quite a steamy exhaust - do you reckon this is a problem? The video was taken with a hot engine at 0 degrees ambient, running on LPG.

Video of a P38 steaming gently to herself on a garage forecourt



Can't Enter EKA Code

My Saga continues, when repairing the car the battery went flat. Charged it overnight last night and put it back on the car and now the alarm beeps every time I open the car. It will not let me put the EKA code in, This is the only way I can start the car as the key remote doesn't work and I only have 1 key.

Any ideas?

I am guessing I will need a Nanocom to set to it to Passive Immobilisation.



Quick and dirty headgasket replacement?

My GEMS 4.0 has started blowing to atmosphere from one of the driver's side cylinders. It's not quite as loud as Miah's was (yet!) but it's definitely doing it. Clearly I'm going to have to do the head gaskets, but since I actually need the car to run around in I need to get it done as quickly as possible. I've not really done one of these before (although I've changed heads before), so here's the list of daft questions:

Do I need to get the heads skimmed? Up until now it's been going pretty well without losing more than the expected amount of oil or water. I can probably find someone to check them for flatness nearby but they'll take a while to skim them.

When Miah and I leakdown tested it a few months back it was about 20% evenly across all eight cylinders. Is it worth dropping the sump off and doing the piston rings too? That starts to get into doing bigend and main bearings as well, I guess?

If I do pull the pistons out and stick new rings in, what do I need to do about the bores? I've read various things about using those three-legged grinding stones and bogbrush type hones to break the glaze, presumably that's pretty important if I disturb that part?



Rainwater into footwell- finally cracked?

After a year of searching and cursing, I think I've finally found the source of the leak into the drivers footwell at the bulkhead end.
I've been through all of the "usual" suspects and eliminated them:
Sunroof drains, roof join above screen, windscreen seal, plenum filter seal, screws/ bolts in plenum cover, drains from plenum area, plenum foam- then the more obscure...
door seal, side trim seal, window seal, throat seal between plenum housing and fan intake, bulkhead penetrations where cables etc go through
Still leaked- not a lot, and only when parked and the wind/ rain was in certain directions.
Got stuck in again yesterday and noticed that plenum filter was wet, but at the bottom, not the cover end. Took this pic to save me tying my neck in knots

enter image description here

The dirty brown area (top left) on the filter was wettest and there was standing water all around the throat area (no drains once it gets in there).
The conclusion...
The water is either coming through the wiper boss, despite all of it's seals being in place, or, more likely, wicking down the shiny new wiper link arm/ ball joint assembly that I fitted when I first got the car.
The solution...
Fit o ring to wiper shaft where it goes through its housing and put in new rubber washers slathered with silicone and
Fit a foam "drip ring" to my shiny new shaft, outside of the plenum throat area, so that water running down will just drip off into the general plenum area.
Let's see what happens :)



Key Fob sudden de-sync/failure

Hello folks,

Last night my 1996 P38 suddenly decided to stop responding to the key fob when trying to lock it.

This morning I had to enter the EAK code to start it.

On arrival at work it again refused to respond to my attempts at locking it on the fob.

The LED in the key flashes on pressing the buttons and the batteries aren't very old, though are not Duracell.

In the past few days the vehicle has been randomly 'unlocking' itself whilst I've been sat in it but whilst the key was out of the ignition barrel (after getting in or before getting out, I don't tend to just sit in it no matter how nice it is in there).

A few months ago I replaced the security receiver filter thingy with one from a later vehicle.

Before I go hunting through the interweb does anyone know of anything simple/obvious to check? Are these recognized symptoms of something with a known easy and cheap/free fix?

The vehicle is usually trouble free and reliable.

Cheers,

Smiler.



Damnit! will my car live?

Finally got rid of the kids so me and the wife can go to ikea. Didnt get far when i noticed the heater was blowing cold all of a sudden. Turned on the diagnostic spp and temp was 115oC. Then lpg went off. Pulled straight over to be greeted by a steaming cloud rom the bonnet.

Discovered this.

enter image description here

Massive hole in the hose. Recovery on the way. Is it fuse 11 to put the gearbox in neutral?

Im hoping i pulled over in time. Will it live??????



That's not what I think it is... Is it?


Happy new year

Not a premature congratulation, I'm over an hour late as we are 2 hours ahead of UK time here. Here's wishing you all a good one



Happy new year

Not a premature congratulation, I'm over an hour late as we are 2 hours ahead of UK time here. Here's wishing you all a good one



Two years old today!

That's right, I first kicked this site off as rrpub.gjcp.net on the 29th of December 2015. As has been discussed to death in the past, it kind of sprung from a discussion Gilbertd and I had in the pub when he was up in Glasgow working, and a certain amount of "How Hard Can It Be...?" thinking. Since then we've got about 80 very active users posting in over 700 topics and nearly 13,000 posts in total. I was going to plot some nice graphs for you all to look at but they look like a slightly wobbly line going up - it's surprising how steady it's all been.

But it's you lot who come here who make it what it is, so I'd like to thank you all for your contributions to the site and all the help, advice and bouncing about of ideas that make it such a fun and friendly place :-)

Happy New Year, everyone!



Clunk/Knock Noise when moving NOW FIXED

This is a follow on the Broken Down Again topic.

Having changed a few items I am slowly getting the cause. Well eliminating!

When rolling/moving there is a dull thud that seems to come from around the drivers footwell. The faster you go the more frequent the noise. It is not intermittent and starts at less then 5mph.

I have now changed the front and rear propshaft union joints, and replaced the Front Diff.

Tomorrow I will jack up the rear of the car, (Front Propshaft is off) and run the car, hopefully I will not hear any noises. That would mean the fault is on the front axle so would guessing it will be the hubs.

Chris has also suggested to place the fuse in the top right position on the drivers seat fuse box, and roll the car down the hill, this ensures the car is in neutral.

Does anyone have any other ideas?