This guy (aka Lancashire Sports and Performance) was responsible for selling me my P38 a couple of years back off of Car and Classic. He claimed to be a "P38 specialist" but his inability to fault check basic things makes us look like Charles Spencer King ( ie he's either incompetent, or a liar). Apart from a load of cr** he spun me about the car, MOT etc, he also advertised it using fake pictures - when you're advertising a numbered limited edition that's a pretty dumb thing to do, right?
Anyway - this guy is so brazen he is now using the same set of pictures (ie the ones that were supposedly of my car, but weren't) to sell another 50th Range Rover. I guess he got kicked off car and classic and so has just set up an ebay account, feedback 1. I know we pub-folk aren't necessarily in the market for a second/ third P38 anyway, but just be warned, go in with your eyes wide open if you do ever get tempted to deal with him.
I know the GEMS does not "need" a gasket between the inlet manifold and the lower plenum/ trumpet section. But on the other hand is there any harm in fitting one? Whenever i've unbolted the section (ok, so only 3 times) there seems to evidence of the inlet galleries talking to one another (though not that there is leaking to/ from the outside) ie i can see a brown oily film between galleries, where there wd only have been blue hylomar on assembly. I though I could nail it with the ERR6621 gasket ? Thoughts?
I've noticed the seat in my P38 tends to rock back and forth when accelerating and braking.
Which is a tad irritating..
Also the issue only arises when the seat it fully back, if it is further forward on the rails it's fine, at 6'6 having the seat close to the dash really isn't practical, having my knees touching the dash really isn't comfy,
Would getting a pair of pliers on the rails and giving them a squeeze help?
Or is there a bolt that can be tightened?!
Anyone else have this issue?
So my old bus has always started lumpy.
It'll fire up with some cylinders missing, which is especially noticeable if you try to rev it up immediately after starting. If you just leave it alone, chuck it in reverse and back out the driveway, by the time you select drive and pull away its usually got all 8 firing just fine. Alternatively if you bring the revs up to say 2000rpm and just hold it there, you can hear it sort of sort itself out and the cylinders come online.
So cue the other day, i go out and start it at lunch time, after it having sat for best part of two weeks. It started, but sounded REALLY unhappy, like half the cylinders were missing. I tried to rev it up a bit, and the throttle was unresponsive, RPM's were super low and oil pressure light was on. Mashed the throttle a bit more and eventually the revs picked up a wee bit and oil pressure warning eventually went out but it was stumbling and generally running like absolute crap. It was about this point i realised it was pouring white smoke out the exhaust like a steam train.
Wondered if it had done a head gasket or something, but i had kids to collect from nursery up the road, so decided to drive it and see what would happen. Revved it some more to try and "clear" it up, and managed to fill most of the driveway with smoke, but it picked up a few cylinders and was now actually responding to throttle, so i set off.
By the end of the street it was running more or less normally, exhaust still appeared steamey, but its cold and well, not entirely unexpected given conditions etc.
Drove to nursery fine (perhaps a mile max), went in and got kid, and came back out, checked the coolant level which was low but ok (it leaks so its often low). This time it fired up easily and drove off without a problem. Drove to the sports center with no issues. Parked for an hour and a bit while in the sports centre.
When i came out of the sports centre, turned the key and it started, and again, wouldnt respond to the throttle, and this time was belching black smoke out the back... However after 5 or 10 seconds it sorted itself out and i drove home. Coolant level was still the same when i got home, so no massive water consumption.
So at this point i'm thinking head gasket or slipped liner or something... And its fixed itself...
Driven it multiple times since then with no issues whatsoever...
I am about to "invest" in a hydraulic press to sort out the panhard rod bushes and the very distressed rear radius arm bushes and wondered if there is a work around for the LRT-64-001 as they don't seem to be available other than at mad prices. I don't have facilities to make anything on a lathe.
As practically everything is off the CVC now I would really like to get to the top of the chassis at the rear and can only think of separating the body and chassis. Is it too scary a job? The whole car is on a 4 post.
I bought this P38 from Union Jack 4x4 in California. It was shipped to Honolulu nearly 2 weeks ago. As I picked it up from the dock it had a dead battery. Several jump starts later it overheated and was stranded. I managed to push the car to the dealer where I was quoted my second born child to just look at the car.
Long story short, the battery went flat. I towed it to a Local shop where they put a new battery in. It’s an Interstate MT-34. After many try’s the vehicle won’t turn over to start.
Here is a video if my trying to start the car
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I ordered parts from Atlantic British to have the local shop install. The parts to install are:
Radiator, thermostat, hoses
Alternator and battery
Everything else was working fine with the usury bits needing fixing but nothing big.
So the questions are,
What am I doing wrong that the car won’t start?
Other than those items listed what else would need to be replaced?
Just a quick one,was changing alternator over, the small captive nut on the back, wasn’t very captive, and disappeared into the abyss, anyone know what thread mm wise it is, I’m thinking 5 but I might be wrong
I have a weep of compressor oil which find its way out past the clutch. From time to time I have to clean the clutch gap to ensure the clutch engages when it should. It's workable, but replacing what's probably just one seal will give me on less thing to maintain. Has anyone ripped one of these babies apart/ replaced the seals?
Hi lads, just to introduce myself a bit, long term Green oval sufferer/enthusiast, currently have (2.5yrs) a 2001 P38 DHSE daily driver, pretty well standard, although the EAS can be testing at times;.... a 1980 RRC 2 door (20 months or so) which is now 300tdi and D1 mechanicals, a project that was supposed to be all there bar the paint but is on closer inspection no where near and finally (4+yrs) a 130 Td5 Defender truck cab which is off the roadat present but was a daily workhorse.
I only stumbled across this forum today while (re)searching M57 conversions (my M51 has at least one cracked ring and loses coolant slowly) and in particular how to get the cruise control working, read through Sloth's excellent efforts and decided to join to keep abreast of that and see what else is cooking.
I get a vaguely nauseous/ "not fresh air" smell coming from my HVAC. I think it's more heat associated than with the AC, which makes me think that the outside of the heater matrix might need a rinse. I redid the o rings in the summer, but was on AC for months, and only recently started to require heat. It was quite unpleasant at first, and is becoming less noticeable now. I have no reason to think the matrix is leaking. I'm not too hot on the HVAC anatomy, but does anyone know of any good ways to clean the outside of the matrix? There are various "bombs" available on the market - anyone found a good one? If i wanted to do a more physical clean is that going to be a dash-off job, or is there a pathway to getting an aerosol solvent directly into the heater box via one of the vents?
Well where do I start? my radio a clarion diversity/with eon/rds. was working fine about a year ago, but when I was driving along and switched on the radio nothing would happen for a split sec then a sort of loud bop or bump noise would come from the speakers and it would work ok, then because I was experiencing my battery keep going flat over night, that problem turned out to be the small receiver for the locking
device located in the offside rear trim panel needing updating to a 2nd gen one that solved that problem but back to the radio I'm still without the radio, As we are lucky enough to have my wife's smaller car we use we tend to leave the ranger under the car port out of the weather all week
and I only use it on a Friday so my wife can go get shopping, while I trundle off to the gym, I think that an obvious thing with the radio is lost
code, and I'm waiting for the local dealer to get back to me in the hope he will give it to me? I have looked in the hand book and seen that one has to press certain pre-set buttons to get the display to show the word code in but don't get that at all but I have found that when I press the on button sometimes the thing don't light up but by twiddling the button it lights, probably a dirty connection due to lack of use,
Just purchased a genuine dog guard for a bargain price of 25 quid, does anyone have one fitted, I’m trying to work out where the brackets bolt to before I end up throwing it 😡🤬.
Any pics would be welcomed
If you've got a spare £15k burning a hole in your pocket :)
Damnit, I went out this afternoon with my new plugs and wires... FFS how am I ever going to get my shovels in to the coil packs? I think it might be just plugs this time :/
I think I need to replace the alternator (maybe voltage regulator). Lights steady before starting the engine, as soon as it's running, lights go noticably brighter and pulsate, seemingly faster with higher RPM. My voltmeter across the battery reads steady at 14.5V at idle and steady 14.4 with some RPM, but the pulsating is probably too fast for my meter to notice (several times a second).
It may have been doing this for months and I'm only noticing now with the winter darkness. With all the electronics I probably shouldn't let it go very long?
Yes, this is essentially a 'right to reply' to the "Zero Emissions" Thread which is now closed
Whilst I realise that my remarks within may be considered "inflammatory" (indeed almost as much as the ones aimed at me in that thread, including some from Mods) and so this thread will likely be 'offed' too - but ask that it remain for a few days at least.
And - if they are really 'neccessary' - I look forward to your continued snipes and/or snide/sarcastic remarks too..
but do be sure to make it obvious when you deploy any (actual) 'jokes' !
(PMs as sent to the 'primary perpetrators')
The 'Eco' Thread......
Well you are very happy to ‘dish it out’ but you really don’t ‘like it back’ now do you ?!
Yes of course I understand why the thread was just stopped, as I also understand what has happening here, other than the ‘standard internet cyber-bullying’ nonsense I mean ! Anyone driving big-block gas-guzzlers is going to feel ‘threatened’ by ‘Zero Emission’ stuff , but unfortunately hostility - either direct or more ‘subtle’ - is really not going to change that…..’sorry’ !!
The thread first went downhill after the unpleasant and unnecessary criticisms of Greta T. with the kind of remarks and comments that you certainly would not accept if they were aimed at your daughters (or grand-daughters in some cases… ). Sadly only ‘Bolt’ was mature enough to recognise that ….
The second problem was an apparent obsession with ‘if I drove a P38 (or not)’ – surely irrelevant in this context - but still that allowed someone to happily indicate I was a liar for not revealing it !
Similarly the numerous ‘personal’ remarks made ‘as a joke’ are not at all “ convincing “ chaps, that is at least when not deliberately-provocative and seemingly-adolescent of course. Perhaps I should be grateful I did not just get the standard teenage response “ whatever ” to my posts ?!
Unfortunately the anonymous nature of Fora allows folks to make comments with impunity (and the normal human courtesies). That – obviously - is what the Tim B-L comment was about. Climate Change causes deaths and that is NOT a joke (now and in the future) and passive-aggressive remarks, eg. ‘cartoons’ showing ‘army snipers’ will really not help that nor the thread…
Perhaps I should have just posted up that famous “You Can’t Handle The Truth” clip from Jack Nicholson instead ? My own ‘hilarious’ joke ‘outburst’ seems to have irritated some…
In response to your final comments Richard I would suggest that the topic –Zero Emissions- is totally valid in any environment where ICE is now -apparently- “the enemy” (or at least easy pickings for our clueless politicians / car lobbyists). As for my comments being ‘off topic’ are you serious (?)
Clearly the car industry -and petrol companies- are ‘feeling the pinch’ - rightly or wrongly. Hence the recent F1 announcement (and many traditional ‘sponsorships’ too) as many are now taking note of the “Environmental Impacts”…. My misinterpreted remark about Lotus obviously relates to claims about “exotic” (and extremely expensive) EV batteries …. But which may not be relevant to the Mass Market.
In fact I was an entrepreneur myself at the start of the IT revolution (Yes, back in the 80s). Now I mentor ‘kids’ on current high-tech opportunities (including ‘state-of-the-art stuff’ like Quantum Computing & etc), Take it from me that these kids, typically in their 20s, “think differently” to the way we (50+) did…
“You may say they are Dreamers, but the’re not the only ones” !!
Seriously I may now use this thread as the basis of my next Seminar: “Why Oldies Fear Change”… (And might turn nasty if faced with it ?)”
Enough said !
Dave (real name)….
Mine's just developed an odd fault. If you turn the key to III all the accessories shut off like you'd expect, but the engine doesn't crank. It's exactly like it thinks it's not in N or P but the dashboard says it's in Park. If I jumper the starter relay, the engine will turn over but there's no spark at the plugs, presumably because it's "too smart" to fire the ignition if it's not actually being started on the key? Although that being said, I thought you could bump start manual V8s, so that kind of makes no sense. The ignition switch seems to deck the appropriate pin on its connector.
It's too dark to really check if all the supply rails are present but that's my next port of call.
Any other thoughts?
Well I’m sorry to say I am moving to Ireland! The only bad news with this is that they charge tax on Emissions and then multiply by the engine size!
Brings the P38 to about £2k per year just for tax!
Unfortunately this means I am going to have to move on my 97 P38 HSE in good condition with a few minor issues. Currently on a private plate but will go back to R448 XUD
Aircon needs recharge
Remote central locking (key broke)
All original wheels and on 2013 19” alloys including two spares!
New blend motors fitted.
Given love and care at last summers meet
Currently having new Union joints fitted.
Done around 120k miles.
If anyone is interested then let me know.
Coils to bags it is....
Looking for assistance or advice from anyone who may have done this job or have links to same that could be of use.
So far I’ve checked compressor and it’s perfect. Looks like, from mx records I have, that previous owner had a new one installed in 2015 about 3 months prior to changing the vehicle to coils.
Relay was disconnected under hood, the 3 plugs in EAS box were disconnected as too were the plugs at back of center dash. The drier is good and the air storage tank is rust free. All hoses “appear” to be in good condition and looks like previous mechanic who removed bags just used a snips to cup hose lines at the entry point to bags.
Looking for a good point to start this project.
I have connected the plugs inside the EAS and replaced the relay in fuse box. I haven’t connected to plugs to the driver controller switch behind the dashboard.
Question. Should the compressor work without me connecting the plug to the back of the driver control switch in dashboard?
Assuming the compressor works, what should I expect to happen once it starts?
Will the air tank fill and then bleed the air out through the 4 lines or will the tank just pressurize?
As mentioned earlier.... any suggestions as to what steps to take next? I’m trying to avoid the vehicle being on jacks for a month and looking for “If I could do it again, I would do this” advice..
I’m setting about replacing the coils on the H&H with Arnott airbags. I received the bags a few months ago and when I opened the boxes this am I find that they do not include the pins that are used to attach the bags to the body. The previous owner removed the bags and did not reset the pins.
Does anyone have a set of spare pins for these bags or any knowledge as to where I can get them?