I’ve complted the entire interior and engine refurbishment of my Linley. I wanted to post here the work that has been completed on it so as to allow those interested to see its status.
I did all of the electrical and mechanical work myself in the garage attached to the side of my house. Certainly was a labor of love but there is nothing on a P38 that anyone with a small modicum of mechanical knowledge couldn’t do themselves. I am testament to that. Just takes patience. Biggest piece of advice I would have is to know when to walk away from the job and attack it a different day. And never, ever use the wing tool for the job.... Patience!
I’m pretty sure that the previous owner had no idea what they were in possession of but having said that the vehicle was a disaster when I bought it. The only thing that motivated me when I saw it for the first time was the LINLEY badge and knowing I had to rescue it.....
The post below is a summary from the day I bought it to about 6 months ago. I’m now waiting to paint it and then she is ready for show. I will post photos once I figure out how to....
Initial quick scan of vehicle shows the following
It will be a work project but I hope to have it back to like new within a year. Unbelievable why someone would let a vehicle like this go to ruin....
The right rear sunroof drain plug was blocked causing the runoff to leak on the rear carpeting. This had to be like this for number of years because the carpet foam was soaked through and minging with the scent of old wet socks. Entire car smelt awful. Thankfully the wool carpet was not affected because of a plastic sheeting the factory had between the carpet and undercover. The front pax floor was floating with anti freeze and this was chased back to the Heater Core seals. Previous owner had attempted to get at these but was not successful. Whoever went at it did a great job tearing the plastic trim under the leather covering apart as well as disconnecting the air conditioning vents but did not get to the seals. When i removed them they were hard as stone and so brittle that they ended up in 4 pieces. Found 2 seals for $2 but I can see how a dealership would charge you $$$$ labor. The Forum had a good writeup on changing these seals but for some reason the explanation as to how to get to the screw holding the pipes to the heater core is not ideal. I think that each person must have a different method.... I found that a 260mm long Philips head screwdriver worked well and I made sure not to back the screw out fully. Also I went to engine bay and gave a slight tug on the pipes to help separate them from the heater core. I sanded the connections and reinserted the seals. I also replaced the Heater Core Temperature Sensor while everything was apart. Thats a simple fix and worth the $25 part.
I am starting to redo all the wood trim in the piano black finish and this is a labor of love as it is very time consuming. Also the interior trim panels all needed to have various chips or dings filled in, primed and resprayed in a plastic matt type finish. Fortunately I was able to contact Landcover Special Vehicles in the UK and they have been a big help with matching of finishes etc.
The floor will have any corrosion sanded and primed and I then plan on putting a rust proofing spray on it. All the seat mounts and seat tracks will be sanded, primed and painted to refresh them and even though these parts will be out of sight, I would rather attend to them and make them as like new as possible as I don't plan on removing them again plus its been 16 years since they saw the light of day.
The drivers seat was badly torn and I had a new one made to match the original. I was able to repair the broken wire in the heated seat circuit and this tests as working now.
All electrical contacts on the interior have been removed and points cleaned and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner then refitted. All interior dash lights plus courtesy lights replaced. Once I have the flooring complete I will put a new soundproof carpet pad down and then the refreshed black carpet. I had the carpet redyed after removing and cleaning it and it looks and smells like new again. I have four sets of black lambswool rugs ordered from Scotland at a very reasonable price. These will match the original lambswool rugs that came with the vehicle.
Thats the month of February done on the LINLEY.....
Update on restoration
I spoke with Landrover Special Vehicles about the restoration. I was about to be talked into removing the leather roof lining and having it replaced with a new leather lining by a leather tanner in CT but after speaking to LRSV in UK and being informed that the leather on roof was a one off special selection I had it cleaned, conditioned and let to sit in a humified room until it stretched back again and is now in like new condition.
Steering wheel with special silver inserts will be sent to Dallas for refurbishment As it had cracked and became unsightly. This item is the crown jewel of the vehicle in my opinion.
All the wood trim has been refinished back to piano black with all scratches and marks removed. The rear LINLEY badge was reconditioned and is perfect. All five wheels have been powder coated in Shadow Chrome.
I have removed and reinstalled a reconditioned complete EAS system that works like new. I removed all the corrosion from the chassis and frame. Four new shocks installed as well as the rotors and brakes. All electrical wires and looms were rechecked for wear and I retailed them all with electrical tape and cleaned all contacts plus replaced any corroded sockets or pins.
I completely overhauled the HVAC system and replaced all 5 Blend Motors plus both blower fans. System works flawlessly.
Heated leather seats have been repaired and all seat leather, along with the glove box, cubby box and rear cargo cover leather has been reconditioned and polished. After having the deep pile black wool carpeting removed, redhead and revealed earlier in the project I reinstalled it over replacement insulation foam. Hood and tailgate struts replaced as well as all interior lights from footwell to dash to HVAC to glovebox.
I removed all the exterior body trim plus front and rear bumpers.
I replaced the Drag link, stabilizer bar links, track rod and steering damper.
That's all work done from Feb to July. Majority I was able to do myself and have a good photo journal of the work.
Over next few months I will pressure test the engine and see what I have. Engine will be pulled from its resting place, engine bay cleaned and whatever work needed on engine will be completed.
I rebuilt the engine changing all gaskets etc. New oil and water pumps. New thermostat and all water hoses. Rebuilt EAS with new air hoses. Brand new radiator. New accumulator. The original piano black wooden steering wheel with stainless steel surround ring and inserts will be refurbished and back in the vehicle by the end of October. Engine fired up yesterday for the first time since rebuild with no fault codes and idled for 30 minutes perfectly. I need to remove the EAS cover and refurbish it as its a bit of an eyesore in its current condition. I was able to source a brand new unused jack kit including the foam box. Vehicle is as good as new now. I will need to buy a brand new set of headlamps for $$$ because used ones would not have the sheen and clarity of new ones and would take away from the vehicles overall appearance when its complete. Chasis was completely sanded and Waxoiled. New steering damper, new drag link and track rod assemblies. New brakes. All exterior wheel arch lining plastic clips replaced. All exterior light bulbs replaced. All external moving parts greased. Plugs and leads replaced as was the coil pack.
The paint job is scheduled for the Spring and then it's ready for the road..... I will post photos when it's painted.... parts so far have cost $2789. I'm guessing that the paint job will be about $3000 to $4000 as it will need several coats and sanding between each coat to create the original finish. Labor cost has been zero as I did all the work myself....
As a side note, I could not have taken this project on without the help of this Forum. Many thanks to all those who have contributed to this forum and thereby have "unwillingly helped" in the restoration project.
I would probably say that this is in all likeliness the most updated P38 in the USA. Almost everything mechanical and electrical has been replaced, cleaned or refurbished. I’m looking forward to the final paint job and I’m glad to be here in this site away from the nonsense of the other place....
The rubber seal that surrounds the neck of the fuel filler is perished on my P38. Does anyone have the part number for this?
The P38 is about 100 miles from me so I can’t take a photo of the part in question, but’s I’ll try and describe it.
When you open the fuel door you will see the pipe that the fuel goes into. There is a rubber shroud around this pipe that also attaches to the body. Mine is perished.
Any help appreciated.
I'm a bit grumpy :(
I ordered this: https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=ANR4687G+&x=0&y=0
and got this: https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-height-sensor-9702-britpart-anr4687-sold-with-warranty-p-35227.html
I'm not very pleased with Island - especially as the part I got is marked "Sold with no warranty" across the top of the page!
I don't suppose any has set of the steel washers that go on the EAS pump mounts they would like to part with. Or if you could point me in the right direction to buy some. I have looked and can't find them anywhere. The rubber mount no problem but the washers no.
New to this forum, so be kind☺
Took the plunge, bought a P38 Diesel manual (on a whim!)
Well impressed so far, done a few jobs, good car to work on
But, I cannot figure out the idle, when starting from cold idle is 1200rpm, after about a minute settles down to 900rpm
Now it idles great when warm, when hot, and when very hot but at 900rpm !
Rave says 750rpm, at 900rpm its seems to fast
Car runs great, checked for airleaks none, does not appear smokey, disconnected hot start fix no change
What to check next?
I seem to have lost my copy of RAVE. Could someone link/send me one? It might be my imagination but I thought there was a link on a sticky on this forum but I might be dreaming. Or maybe Gordan was getting nasty letters?
Well that's the first of all 4 being done. I took it slowly so the best part of 3 hours. I've read that some people can do it without removing the arch liner, I've no idea how. Must be Houdini's!
It should be half the time tomorrow for the front RHS. I'm glad I have an impact driver for that bottom nut on the front shock thats for sure. My neighbours think I have a Range Rover fetish
Time and budget have aligned and it’s time to have the LINLEY painted.
Found a good paint shop and the discussion is on what type of paint to use.
Painter suggests a few coats of a black that has a slight blue mixed, which he says will give it a brilliant black shine. I have seen an example and it looks great.
While I don’t have the pockets to have him do what LRSV did to it in UK, 10 coats of black paint with a sanding between each coat, I am a bit reluctant about his mixing.
Vehicle will be going to the shop with all body trim, roof trim, lights and handles removed so his costs will only be minor masking, sanding and paint.
I’m just not wanting this job to be arsed up and because I have done so much work to this restore and wanting to be as paedantic and as close to original as I have been I am open to member suggestions and thoughts on respray.....
Still bloody leaking. Any tips please guys? I fitted new orings yesterday, the top one is leak free. Bottom one is not. The oil cooler looks new-ish as well, threads don't feel mangled either.
I'm taking the new a/c condenser off again now as I don't have octupus tentacles to get into the gap.
I found this today - enjoy it is 4 pages long and has some good photo's on it P38
My drivers side door handle appears to have given up the ghost. Won't open from inside or outside. The outside handle has come right out and won't go back in all the way. The inside handle appears fine, but doesn't actually open the door.
So..... what's it likely to be and how can I fix it? I've read a lot about the pins and plastic bits inside the door and how to carefully take them apart......to be honest I'd rather just buy a new latch (just ordered one off ebay for £60) and fit it.
Will a new latch sort it? Are there any failure modes that won't be sorted by just taking the whole latch out and replacing it?
I was reading this post about aligning the steering box and I have a couple of questions.
With the steering wheel centred my car drives straight but the steering box alignment is slightly out (It does seem to feel like you have to turn it more in one direction than the other for the same amount of movement). If I'm understanding that post correctly to fix this I need to first disconnect the steering UJ from the box and align the wheel so that the wheel and box are centred, then adjust the drag link so the car drives straight with the wheel and box still centred. Is that correct?
How long should the test run?
I am actually doing it for the first time (myself). Have tartarini system on my V8 disko1.
It worked well for 10years
Need to calibrate it I think 😳
I don't have lamdas connected. (Have 2) problem?
So the autocalibration runs for an hour before I just exit. It never finishes.
What should I expect?
I've been pouring through some lesser forums ;)
And there are quite a few engine upgrades available.
Mustang Injectors which i think are Bosch Gen III units.
Cylinder head porting/polishing
And High lift cams
Are the above upgrades worthwhile?
People have said 300hp is possible with a healthy engine..
They've also said Fuel economy has improved slightly..
Is this to be believed or is it all hearsay?
I keep forgetting to fold / unfold my mirror when I park up, and I'm really lazy so I was wondering about the possibility of hacking together a powerfold mirror for my beloved P38. I know a lot of the P38 / discovery 2 parts are interchangeable and, looking at the disco mirrors on ebay the fitting doesn't look a million miles away. I imagine the electric bit operates in some incredbly weird, esoteric way as per usual though.
Has anyone attempted this before? I've done some googling, but can't find anything online.
I'm also considering shelling out for a 3d printer, so if the fitting isn't quite right I should be able to ring something up to make it fit.
Would I be better just buying a motor and trying to fit it into the current P38 housing?
I have an oil leak (standard fitment, of course) that I can't work out where is originating from...
The starter is getting covered in oil, to the point the frame rail immediately opposite it is getting wet, and the exhaust heat shield gets a build up that burns off.
The rocker covers are, for once, not leaking, and I've cleaned/degreased both sides of the engine since last doing them.
Looking up from underneath, the oil does not appear to be coming from the front of the engine, but about half way back, it suddenly is quite wet:
Front end is dry:
If it were the valley gasket at the back of the engine, I can't see how oil would make it this far forward? I'm also not dropping much on the ground, the odd drop. I think most is worryingly ending up being burnt off. I thought head gasket perhaps, but from what I can see there is only one oil feed up to the heads, and that is on the front end of the engine above the cylinders...
I mentioned in the Are We Froze thread that I'd noticed my rear discs were looking a bit odd so had them off today and fitted a set of Delphi discs and pads.. Having checked my order history with LR Direct, the discs I took off were Allmakes brand ones bought in April 2017. So they've been on there for 16 months and have covered around 30,000 miles. What i don't know is what pads I fitted when I put them in but they haven't fared well. All pads were worn down evenly and by the same amount, none were sticking in the carrier and the pins were sliding nicely. Nothing appeared to be wrong with anything except for the appearance of the discs.
The offside one had marks looking like it had been sitting for weeks with the pads in one place, score marks and felt rough to the touch. Both inner and outer faces of the disc were the same.
While the nearside one appeared scored everywhere and felt rough to touch yet the inside face was clean and looking as you would expect a fairly new disc to look.
I'm thinking either the Allmakes discs aren't good quality or aren't compatible with the pads I've used. In saying that I would have thought if the pads are too hard, they would wear the discs but they would still stay smooth? Anyone else come across anything similar?
A bit of advise please. My car is perfectly level doesn't loose hight when parked up for the week. All in all the EAS works fine at all heights. However the compressor seems to operate a lot. Example, car sitting in garage on level ground. Start car goes up to normal hight with the compressor running. Compressor switches off valves click as if the car is levelling then the compressor cuts in again. This cycle repeats. Not sure how often the compressor is supposed to run. Compressor has been overhauled. Any advise much appreciated.
Have we froze, or is everyone running ok for a change. Don’t think I’ve ever seen 3 days without something going on.
If your all running ok, come give me a hand to sort mine out, lol 😆
So I was having a clear out, had my old cats sitting there for a year now, thought do I throw or scrap, went down the scrap path, walked away with £160,, so be aware, if your thinking of fitting new cats, it won’t be as bad as it first seems,,