Not mine but a friends 2001.
He has got the dead motor off drivers side rhd and intends to fit the new but second hand one this Saturday, just over 2 days time. What he intends to do is turn the flap by hand to fully cold, connect the motor and send that to fully cold with the hvac temp button and mount it, the drive shaft has a 'D' profile and he will adjust the flap until the motor will engage then test for proper operation. I've never done a blend motor but I'm concerned that this is maybe a too simplistic method?

Hi, just a quick question [for a change] - is there likely to be much difference in the propshaft doughnut kit, costing around £40 and the one by LR costing £134 ?

Pierre3.

Old P38 2001 V8 has had the 3 amigos for a while ABS t/C and handbrake light..

Initially I thought it was the accumulator, the abs pump would run for every peddle press, new accumulator fitted and it only runs after 10 pedal presses.

However the lights are still on...

Unfortunately I don't have a nanocom, any ideas as to what the issue could possible be..

I have noticed that if you put moderate pressure on the brake pedal it hits a "hard spot" and then sinks over an inch downwards..

Could air in the system cause an ABS issue? possibly.

Thanks.

hi guys just quick question my l320 failed mot on lower ball joint and hub bering both on near side
I've looked on island4x4 for parts is there any other sites people use
plus should I do both bottom and top ball joints or just the bottom one island4x4 can do both ball joints and hub delivered for £110 both ball joints are lemforder

REMOTE BATTERY MONITORS

For anyone unaware and who has the need for that particular faciility..... and not just for P38s:-

Two main types:
Bluetooth/ Phone app.
eg. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCELI-Bluetooth-Wireless-Diagnostic-Analyzer-Black/dp/B09YTWJ6BL

eg: https://www.quicklynks.com/pro_show.php?id=159

YT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcNR2Gs6oQI

• Not a P38 obviously - it's on an EV - so many (ICE) features don't work..
• and not a quiet enviroment either.... Gulls and sirens optional ?? Squaaaarrrkkkk !

'Wireless'/ Standalone
(NOTE: 433mhz..!!... so might be tricky if it keeps waking up your BeCM...
particulary if you don't have a 3rd-generation Rcvr. or Marty's box...)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ANCEL-Wireless-Frequency-Automotive-Charging/dp/B0BZCK7L1H

Typically draw a few mA

Amazon ads. above but multiple (much cheaper) variants on e-bay of course.....

Wish I had one of these years ago, it would have saved me about 25 times what these cost !?

Hi guys, I am interested in information regarding the transmission brake on a late 2001 P38. The reason I ask is because I intended to replace the brake shoes in the handbrake but it turned out to be a dogs dinner !!

I read the RAVE description of how to do the job and expected to be able to do it in about 2 hours, but 6 hours later I was putting everything back together because my transmission brake seems to be different from the one described in RAVE.

RAVE says to disconnect the propshaft at the rear of the handbrake drum, where there is a rubber doughnut. So I started this and got one bolt out. The two other bolts were turned towards the top of the transmission tunnel so I said to myself just turn the propshaft with a large screwdriver. But that turned out to be impossible - because the car is a permanent 4 wheel drive, and even though the car is in neutral with the back wheels jacked up the front wheels are still connected through the transfer case.

I put a fuse in F11, and got the message that the transfer case was selected, but I still couldn't turn the propshaft. The only way of doing it was to actually drive the car a bit until the remaining two bolts turned around so that I could get a spanner on them. I then removed all three bolts holding one side of the rubber doughnut, and expected to drop the propshaft, as per RAVE. But nothing happened. So I then removed the other three bolts that hold the doughnut, so that the doughnut was free to move, but the propshaft was going nowhere. The only thing was that now I could turn the propshaft because it was no longer connected to the transmission brake drum.

On inspection I then found that my transmission brake is quite different from the one described in RAVE. Firstly, the reason that the propshaft can't be removed is because there is a short stub sticking out from the three legged connection on the back of the handbrake drum. This prevents the propshaft from being removed. The only way to remove the propshaft is to drop the UJ end, at the rear axle. And of course these were rusted solid. Cut them off is the only solution, so out with the angle grinder with a thin cutting blade, I use a 9 inch grinder.

So I cut off the 4 bolts and hoorah, I was able to remove the propshaft, which isn't the way RAVE says that is the method for replacing the handbrake shoes.

I thought that I was finally at the point whereby I could now pull off the handbrake drum. RAVE says to unscrew a large Phillips screw that holds on the drum. But there is nno large Phillips screw on mine, instead there are 4 nuts sticking out of the drum which I suspect are holding the drum on, but at this point I decided that this is a garage job as I have no idea what the 4 nuts are screwed on to. If I loosen these nuts I may not be able to tighten them without removing the drum, which I can't do. I tried to lever the drum off but it is held tight, so something is holding it. Is it these four nuts ? Who knows, because RAVE doesn't cover this handbrake.

I am wondering if LR decided to fit a different type of transmission brake by the time of my P38, i.e. June 2001. Whatever it is, it isn't in RAVE.

If anyone has come across this type of transmission brake perhaps they could explain how to get the handbrake drum off. So far I know that you have to drop the propshaft entirely, which isn't described in RAVE, and that the drum is not held on with a large Phillips screw.

Any advice will be appreciated.

Pierre3.

Hi, I received two new rear air bags for my P38, can somebody tell me what are the soft rubber pipes, located in the top, or bottom, used for ?

Pierre3.

hi folks been while since been on here
with work and general life been busy not had much time to get on here
any way had my L320 of the road for last year doing bits for mot (plus insurance going sky high) so just wondered how people was doing and do you p38 owners have same issue as me with insurance renewal?

Yesterday I went for my first drive after replacing the hose on my Cruise Control. It still doesnt work.... I have also put a battery on the motor as a test, the Diaphragm pulls in, no problem...Before I dig out rave and start going through the diagnostic waterfall, what is the next most obvious probem to check?

A recharged accumulator is on its way.
Reading RAVE, I can see the guide for bleeding brakes.

Reading another forum (a long time ago) I think it talked about new acc being prefilled with brakefluid??

The one sent away for recharging was dry. There was a tiny amount of fluid in the hole that i unthreaded the acc from.

Am I missing something in RAVE?
Should the acc be full of air below the diaphragm? (Nitrogen above the diaphragm when fitted).
RAVE warns about catching fluid in a rag when removing acc.

Compressing the air under the diaphragm sounds OK but what stops brake fluid bouncing up displacing air into the pump? (not that I offroad it).

The scrap car I removed the acc from braked OK with the dry acc. That car managed two brake pedal pushes before the noisey pump ran. Current car, brake pump runs as soon as you touch pedal (this pump is very quiet, hard to hear in car).

Many thanks

Hi.
My 120k 2001 4.6 gearbox sometimes is slow to engage first gear when the car is taken from park to drive. It can be 4 or 5 seconds.

I have never had this problem from park to reverse (but the problem could be there, it doesn't happen every time).

The fault occurs both when the car is just started AND when it has been idling for a few minutes.

Once the problem has occurred, it won't happen again the same day.

When it engages drive (after the faulty pause), it makes a single knock noise. Usually, it engages silently.

When working, it works well (very smooth).

The only other issue is very rare. It displays "gearbox overheat" but only in really cold weather and only within 3 minutes of starting the car for the first time (useally, before I pull away).

I'm guessing the best diagnostic route would be to change the oil and filter first? Nothing useful for me to do with the Nanocom?

Many thanks again all.

The 4.0SE I've just bought is giving an ABS Fault, Traction Failure on the message centre as soon as it is started and before it has moved. Read the codes with the Nanocom and there were lots of them so cleared those hoping I would just be left with the relevant ones. There's not as many as there were but still a lot and not the usual wheel sensor errors. It's a '98 GEMS so has the Wabco C system and the faults are as follows:

Open circuit to normally open ETC valve
Short between valves on outlet demanual valve
Short between valves on normally closed ETC valve
No inductive load on normally closed ETC valve

Anyone got a clue what these are telling me? It looks like I've got to start looking at the ABS system wiring but with the other half or incorrectly done modifications that the car has been subjected to, it wouldn't surprise me if someone has tried fitting a 4 wheel TC modulator without changing the ECU for a Wabco D, so checking that might give a clue as to what is going on.

Hi.
Hoping to change heater matrix orings on RHD.
YouTube makes it look possible.

Reading about others attempts....
One user suggesting using larger rings. Standard 22x2.5mm? Using 22x3mm instead?

One user is adding much sealant around standard rings.

Lots of cheap nitrile rings listed, but VXs ive bodged use silicone not nitrile rings (on cooling hoses). Are the LR parts nitrile or silicone?

Should I just stick to the standard rings? Am I likely to get 5+ years from standard parts?

If I do add sealant, can I use my favorite wellseal or should this be silicone? (Don't want silicone in the heater water/matrix).

Thanks again

Hi guys, I hope that this is allowed but I want to look for a bit more information in regards to the ABS/TC warning lights coming on, on the dashboard.

I got under the car yesterday, and following both Richards' and Bolts' advice I gave the passenger side sensor a couple of taps with a light hammer, and the warning lights went out, tested by driving about 1/4 mile. So everything appeared hunky-dory, but I know that you readers have guessed that that is not all.

I went out on a 40 mile, each way, journey and after around 10 miles the warning lights came back on while gently bumbling down a motorway. So I continued on to my destination, parked and switched off ignition.

After three hours I returned and set off again, but after 6 miles this time the warning lights came back on and stayed on until I got home, about 1 1/2 hours - due to heavy traffic.

So could I be looking at, as Bolt suggested, a flaky wheel bearing on the passenger side front wheel. This is where I had a lower reading on the Nanocom, when doing as road test as suggested by Richard. The static readings were all around 2.30, a bit above and a bit below, but when driven slowly three readings varied from the 2.30-ish figure by very little, but the front passenger side sensor gave readings around 1.80.

So tapping the F P Side sensors cleared the fault.

Some research suggests perhaps a faulty wheel bearing, a faulty sensor, or a CV joint going faulty. Do I just have to bite the bullet and change everything ?

Pierre3

I have a problem with my heater as it rarely seems to blow hot air into the cabin. If I press the PROG button I do get hot air.

Here are the readings on my Nanocom Do these values look OK? The aspirator temperature seems high.

Hi, i'm not exactly sure where to post this so I thought that here might be a good place to start.

I was coming home last evening, bumbling along on a quiet motorway, doing about 50 mph, when the message "ABS has failed", or something similar, and the yellow ABS light and the traction control lights came on and stayed on until I got home. The vehicle didn't appear to have any problem driving along, but obviously there is some issue.

Perhaps someone could give me a bit of advice on the problem. It is starting to get tiresome, at this stage, the constant problems which are now happening. The heater matrix and blend motors were replaced only two months ago, then the drivers side latch packed up, and the car has driven maybe 300 miles, and this includes a journey to a wedding this weekend. Now the ABS fault has appeared.

I know, also that I will need to replace the height sensors shortly, as the EAS has been, since getting it back from the garage two weeks ago, going to full height when I go around a roundabout fairly quickly causing the vehicle to lean somewhat. Then I have to press the EAS switch to drop the vehicle back down, after which the vehicle runs fine.

But firstly I need to solve this ABS issue, so any help would be appreciated.

Edit - having read through a lot of different forum posts about this, could it be so simple as a wheel sensor ? Maybe I just need to buy new height sensors and get hold of some Wabco wheel sensors to cure the problem.
Edit - I plugged in Nanocom and the readings from the sensors are - front right 2.31; front left 2.35; rear right 2.21; rear left 2.35. Perhaps someone might know if these are correct, or thereabouts.

Another problem seems to have cropped up, now. The gearbox cooler fan is running when the ignition is turned on. This is a new issue, it has just appeared this morning. The car has been parked since 10pm last evening so it certainly can't be hot this morning. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this ?

Pierre3.

Hi folks, I haven't really had a lot of time to do stuff with the forum but a few folk contacted me to say it was unbearably slow.

This appears to be because the thing that makes emojis work has been closed down by the third-party provider, and it takes a while for the script that handles emojis to do its thing. I've disabled it, and things seem pretty snappy again - at least, as good as they ever were - but if you spot anything that looks really really wonky let me know!

The rear wiper on my P38 is on the blink. It's very sluggish when it wipes. That's if it wipes as often it won't move or it does move then dies stuck halfway across the screen. I have had it operating both with the wiper stalk & with the Nanocom so think that all is good regarding BECM & controls. I think that it points to an issue with the wiper motor. I found a couple of posts on other forums where guys have cleaned up the motor & applied plenty of WD40 to get them going again. At the moment I just try & resist using the rear wiper as I know it will stop mid stroke & hang down until sometime later when it will decide to park hidden away.

What is involved in taking out the wiper motor as I cannot find a guide online?

I'm trying to get my 1994 HSE back on the road this year but my first job - sorting out the EAS is not going to plan. My EAS system as always had trouble communicating with the software but I was able to establish that the likely culprit was a duff height sensor. I've since replaced the sensor but the now the software is bringing up a whole bunch of fault codes, which I believe is indicative of a communications problem, and it refuses to clear them. In all other ways the software seems to be working. i can actuate the pump, and the various messages, I can get my height sensor readings etc. The Tx/Rx values appear to be correct.

Any suggestions?

Hi, I thought that I had solved a problem with the drivers' side door latch blowing up and locking me out of the car. I did the LR emergency manoeuvre and bashed the latch with a steel rod, thereby allowing into the vehicle. I then got a new door latch from my usual LR dealer - but, as has been pointed out, the "f***-up" of the electrical connector plugs came into play.

The door latch that arrived has - yes, you guessed it - two connector plugs. But my latch has only one. F, f, f*** !!!!

So, I am wondering whether I can take the original plug off my broken lock and then take the two plugs off the new lock and reconnect them into the old single plug, to reconnect to the wiring loom.

The first picture is the new, two plug arrangement; the second picture is the original plug off the banjoed door latch; and the third picture is the plug connector on the end of the door wiring loom.

The correct door latch is FQJ103260 but this is NLA and LR tell me that they have no prospects of new stock arriving. So this leaves the second hand market with the prospect of the door lock failing again, whenever it feels like it. The latch that I currently have is FQJ103220 but it is for the previous model of P38. The part number FQJ103260 seems to have been fitted to very late P38's and when I asked LR they said that that part number shouldn't have fitted to my vehicle, based on the chassis number. BUT - it is !!

If it is possible to rewire the plugs then it will avoid having to [a] buy second hand; and [b] rescue the cost of buying the two plug latch.

Any suggestions would be most welcome. A last comment - I have seen a new passenger side door latch for a LHD P38 with the correct plug, and all the mechanical lock connections in the correct position. But would this door latch work in the drivers' side door on a RHD vehicle ?

Pierre3.