It's been a while since I've posted anything. I have been trying to fix a few things on the Callaway and did manage to get the engine compartment fuse box swap completed. Everything else has been, like that was, another rabbit hole. The problems become huge mazes of more problems that have been badly patched or disabled like removing the brake, traction control and anti-lock warning lamps from the instrument display which we all know points to the three amigos. Anyway getting to the reason I'm posting today. The release for the tilt mechanism in the steering wheel is very dodgy. It is usually somewhat difficult to release and if it gets into the lowest position it takes a great deal of time, patience and effort to release it. I sometimes think it may be stuck there forever. There are two parts to this control lever. 1) A cable which I believe loosens the locking clamp for the telescope function and 2) A bar and pin which I believe is the release for the tilt spline. I don't see any obvious worn or bent parts so my question is does anyone else have this problem and does anyone know of any lubrication or adjustment that can be done to make this work better?
I don't want this to turn into another debate on the rights or wrongs of emissions, I'm looking for answers in trying to avoid charges and don't care if anyone thinks it is right or wrong to avoid charges ;-)
As some here know I go on a forum for imported (from Japan) Nissan Elgrands. There's been some talk on there about original Nissan emission figures for petrol Elgrands (from 2002 onward) stating low enough figures that they should in theory be able to avoid having to pay the London ULEZ charges (?). Being imports there is no 'Euro4' etc rating for these cars and the emissions data sections on the V5 are usually blank... which is a good thing in one way in that owners don't have to pay the higher road fund duty but might be a a bad thing in another way if this is the issue that means having to pay ULEZ charges.
Several people have tried to get an exemption from ULEZ charges by sending 'evidence' of low emissions to TFL Transport For London but TFL ask for a signed letter from the vehicle manufacturer (technical department was mentioned) to support the emissions figures, the signed letter has to include the UK registration number and VIN number. Nissan don't know the reg number of the exported Elgrand and refuse to send such letters anyway. People have tried sending copies of Nissan documentation and letters from dealers but TFL refuse to accept anything but the signed letter from the manufacturer's technical dept.
Some people are trying a different tack, they have got a vignette for Paris and similar for Berlin and intend on asking TFL if these will suffice as evidence of low enough emissions. I note that nobody has tried this for an LPG converted Elgrand and IIRC their Paris vignette is a higher figure than Gilbert's vignette for Paris for his P38.
Anyone know (particularly Gilbert) if the Vignette tack is likely to work? Or any other way around it?
Side subject of the Paris / Berlin Vignette... Will not having a Euro rating or emissions figures on the V5 (boiling down to them being imports) effect the grading or application for such vignette if the Elgrand is LPG converted?
I nearly quoted one of Gilbert's posts on the subject of Vignettes but I don't know if it would be needed as a reference in any reply.
I thought that it may be helpful to anyone having the same issue that I had, namely a leaking rear tailgate or a leak somewhere. I was getting a lot of rain water getting into the spare wheel well, and I couldn't figure out where it was coming from.
I took all the trim, carpets and fittings out of the boot area and left them out for a couple of months, checking after each time it rained to see if any rain had got back in. Each time it rained there was some water still getting in. I carefully cleaned off everything that I could get at in the spare wheel well floor and body work. I used a hair dryer to make sure that the hollow panels were dry, and then I took out things like the tailgate flap and stuffed Vaseline into the screwholes.
I checked and cleaned the sunroof tubes, and made sure that the pipes through the rear arches were not blocked. I also readjusted the body edge, as per the service advice, and took off most off the tailgate seal and reseated it using Vaseline under the seal. The seal appeared to have deformed at the two lower corners but otherwise looked in good condition.
This is the point at which I can image that people start to pull their hair out, and look, as I did, for anything at all that could be a problem - back bumper fixings, rear wiper, rear wiper washer pipe, etc, etc.
I sat and thought about what could be happening, and out of frustration I decided to put my hand in my pocket and buy a new seal - £120 or so with delivery.
And hey, the most obvious answer turns out to be the solution. I used a windscreen non-setting black mastic to put a fine film of seal under the tailgate seal and refitted the new item.I have had the vehicle sitting out in very heavy rain for the last two months and [fingers still crossed] not a drop of rain water.
I think that we all do the obvious and look for a leak somewhere and decide that it must be somewhere unobvious !! In fairness I could have saved a couple of months of sponging up the rain water every time it rained, but I also think that I was reluctant to spent £££'s without being certain.
But I think that my advice now would be - if the leak is not the sunroof then really, really consider just fitting a new tailgate seal.
One thing that I haven't sorted out is water getting in when I drive through a lot of big puddles in heavy rain. I have no problem in heavy rain on a good road surface, but if I drive through a lot of large puddles on the side of the road then water gets in somewhere. I may just get the rear underside undersealed, and see if that sorts it out. At the moment, I just avoid big puddles !!!
When I first bought my truck last year the SRS light came on- without a fault statement on the dash. Spray cleaned the yellow connector under the left seat and no more red SRS light.
This Sunday the SRS light came on and the "airbag failure" note came up. Stoped the truck and restarted- no SRS light or fault statement. Down the road, both came back on.
Got home and hooked up the Nano and could not clear the fault "left airbag failure (permanent)". Sprayed again with DeoxIt and could clear faults which stayed clear so far.
What is strange is the Nano keeps the "left airbag failure (permanent)" text even when saying that all faults are cleared.
What is the Nano trying to tell me when the text remains in the fault window and says that this fault is "permanent"?
Does the Nano retain "airbag failure" faults in memory so even when cleared this failure is considered Permanent?
Looking at the parts book I see that there is a single part number for fuel injectors for all P38 models, regardless of GEMS or Bosch. ERR6600. However I note on other sources these broken down into early (ERR722 for GEMS) and late (ERR6600 for Bosch).
My question is, are they in fact interchangeable? Do I take the parts book at face value, or should I find ERR722 for my GEMS and not grab the ERR6600 which is more readily available.
Lock mechanism in my daily has gone US, no longer detects the door opening, closer doesn't seem to return on it's own properly (guessing broken spring or similar) and makes an awful metal against metal bang when closing.
I'm guessing it's not worth attempting to repair it, but are the rumours of the rear doors being pigs to work on true?
Having struggled to get the oil seals in the hubs I'm still left with a 2-3mm gap between the outer face of the oil seal and the front face of the hub. I should have checked on the gap when I took them out but does anyone know if they have to be totally flush with the hub?
The Duchess is being a little minx again!
After running perfectly as a DD for a couple of weeks she refuses to start. She has sometimes needed a couple of hits on the key when starting from cold, but has always started, nearly always immediately.
Suddenly she won't start at all. She cranks fine but there's no hint of any pots firing. Th8s is just a whinge really as I haven't bothered with any diagnosis yet but I'll post up results as I get round to them.
I'll start with a Nanocom scan, fuel pressure and try taking a spark plug out to test for a spark.
My money is on the CPS right now but that's a flat out guess until I have any data. I'll check before loading the parts cannon!
If anyone has suggestions on what to test, please let me know (apart from my head for still running this vehicle! 😀)
hi all got problem with my p38 its not starting when the weather gets cold today it temp of 5 here not -5 just 5 and it not starting and the glow plug were change 4weeks a go im getting bit of gray smoke out the back end but not joy firing up any ideas would be great help.
My wipers have an intermittent problem when, although they are working, they are not doing what they should be. When I push the stick upwards they should sweep across once. They might and they might not. They may stop half way across the screen. Same with other positions. May or may not do what they should. Also intermittent alarm fault message and ignition key in when it is not. When that happens it won't lock. Have to shove the key in the ignition and out again. It is never ending with this vehicle
Hi I have recently purchased a 1998 4.6 ...neither the sunroof or trip computer work.
I have been told it is very likely they have been omitted from the BeCM as more than likely their is a sunroof fault. I intended to fix it and a new switch pack has failed to solve it. It does not flash up sunroof not set or similar so this would seem likely..
Dies anyone in the Manchester area have a nano Comms that could check...beer and crisps provided in payment...any takers please ?? Best wishes Dave
Getting SRS red light on instrument cluster.
Able to reset with Nanocom but it appears to come back after passenger sits in seat.
Is this a coincidence, and if not, is there a “squat switch” in seat that senses pressure from an occupant?
Folks, my fronts are pretty buggered due to driving 10k miles with a locked up viscous so they'll need replacement for the MOT. The rears are.. as you'd expect for 10k miles with plenty of tread and even wear. Am I OK to replace just the fronts or do I need to have the same rolling radius front and back? I'm wondering if having a difference would knacker the viscous again..
No need to spell out the implications if Corbyn were running the shop.. IF :-(
Anyone else alarmed?
Edit - That's zero net carbon emissions (not gross)... But can't see how there'd be much scope to make negative carbon emissions (planting trees etc), in which case net must be similar to gross, which implies no internal combustion engines?
Also seems like both Labour and SNP are intending Glasgow to be the first place to go ice engine free zero carbon emission.
So I've got a rangey in just now which has faults on two out of three blend motors. Simplest solution is to throw a brand new set of genuine motors at it, or so I hoped.
I've bought them, hooked them up, and after resetting the faults... I get faults still. O.o
Far as I can see electrically, the motors are all fine, as are the potentiometers. So I dug a bit further into the pinouts in RAVE, the nanocom HEVAC pdf, and testing voltages with a multimeter. Doing this I discovered an oddity. Two of the three blend motors use red/black as their negative potentiometer voltage reference, as you'd expect based on RAVE. But the right hand potentiometer is mis-wired in all the harnesses I've looked at.
Pin 1 is supposed to be the right hand potentiometer positive voltage reference, and pin 5 the negative. Based on the multimeter, RAVE is correct. But the nanocom manual has them the opposite way round, which you could easily write off as a mistake, but the wires themselves are backwards in the harnesses I've seen.
Can anyone that's got a harness handy have a look and see what colour wires go into pins 1 and 5?
To save you digging in RAVE to figure out which pins that is, if you look at the connector, pin 3 is empty, so pin one is two to the left of the empty slot, and pin five two to the right. Both are on the outside edge of the HEVAC ECU.
Hi, I would like to ask the experienced heads who know about the door handles on the P38 a question that doesn't come up on the really good thread posted by Orangebean.
Is it possible to modify a drivers' side front outer door handle from a LHD car to suit a RHD car ?
I am considering buying new handles as mine are quite worn in colour, and the two front handles are quite clunky and not fully closing. I was thinking about taking them out and repainting them with Rust-Oleum Hard Hat gloss black, and fitting repair kits to fix the handle return issue.
However, I thought that it may be quicker and easier to just buy new handles and fit them instead. I know that the passenger door handles, and the passenger front door handles, are all available but the drivers' side handle is no longer available new.
But - I have been offered a new, LHD car drivers' side door handle. So, I wonder whether it is possible to take off the left hand drive fittings and fit the old fitting, with a repair kit, STC3064 and the key barrel, and refit to the car thereby giving me a new door handle.
So I'm pulling my hair out trying to find the cause of my untoward emissions. At idle, everything is in the red. At fast idle, lambda goes green, hc sometimes goes green, and co is around 500ppm (200ppm is the limit).
V8 4.6 gems with a top hatted and rebuilt bottom end a couple of years ago. High torque camshaft. Top end skimmed, stem seals done and valves ground.
Its always suffered a bit from being rich at idle, and idle itself is slightly stumbly. Last year it scraped through the mot with a lot of loud pedal action getting it roasting hot etc.
This year though it is not playing ball.
Stuff I've done:
New plugs. Old ones all looked identical in colouring, couple had slight sooting down the side of the ceramic centre core.
Coil pack resistances checked ok.
New fuel filter (genuine).
New air filter (Mann).
Air intake flexible pipe replaced to fix leak.
Lambda sensors tested on an oscilloscope, showing one was sluggish. Replaced and confirmed both switching at the same speed.
Valley gasket replaced (slight oil leak) and resealed, ram pipe and plenum sealed with threadlock.
Vacuum hose to fuel pressure regulator was slightly perished, but not leaking. Replaced anyway.
Fuel rail lifted with injectors in place and pump fired up to check for leaks. None found.
Tested each injector on the rail and no issues found. Not a scientific test but I don't have an injector test rig.
Refitted rail and found slight air leak at the o ring for cyl 1, replaced o ring and problem fixed.
Also found a very slight air leak from one of the LPG stubs, so fixed that (have now actually installed the LPG injectors).
Wurth fuel treatment run through.
Bp ultimate run through.
Oil flush, change and filter.
Nanocom mostly shows the fuel trims are around zero, with the short terms dancing around both sides of zero, more so at idle.
Also shows o2 sensors switching ok (oscilloscope confirmed this though).
Have tried three different gems maf sensors, all seem to give the same results.
Cleaned the idle air control valve (iacv) and plenum ports to gleaming.
Oil strainer checked and is clear. Oil breather hoses both clear and not perished.
In desperation I tried adjusting the idle adjustment screw, but it hasn't really helped, plus nanocom reports the idle steps as a percentage rather than raw steps, probably, so its anyones guess what it should be set to.
Probably more stuff that I've forgotten.
Anyway I'm out of ideas. I really need to get it to run cleanly before I finish off the LPG install, not least for my pocket!
Runs well otherwise, plenty of power and pick up, as Gordon can attest to :)
Any and all suggestions welcome!
We all know that the ultimate battery for the p38 is the ginormous Hankook MF31-1000 (the one that just fits in the hole) but the last time anyone checked, they were being shown as no longer available. Well thankfully, now the weather is about to get colder and batteries are going to start to show their age, they are back. https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/hankook-mf31-1000.html
I 'ave had this issue since i got her, the Little "gully" that houses the wiring loom under the plastic kickplates next to the seats is filling with water when it rains.
Down here ;)
The Pollen filters were sealed up around a week after i bought her!
The Heater matrix O rings have also been done, + it defo ain't coolant!!
Cheers Gents for any replies!
V8 starts on the nose,and idles fine, from cold. A couple of times the other day i "had fun" restarting when I'd just stopped for 5-10 minutes. Engine turned over no problem, but didn't fire up. After a few attempts it just about caught, and I had to keep it rev'd to 1500 for 15-20 secs for it to stop choking. As soon as I had it under load ie in reverse or 1st then it could idle at 650 again.
Does anyone recognise the symptoms?
I haven't yet cleaned up the IACV since i bought it, or fitted a new fuel filter, and i will shortly change the exhaust down-pipes and so clean the oxygen sensors at the same time. MAFs clean, injectors are ok, spark plugs and HT leads are new