All was ok yesterday. I drove to the Euro tunnel and just before I got on the train I put rubbish in the bin. I got a strange whiff about an hour before arrival but thought nothing more of it.
Anyway I saw this big red puddle of ATF under the car as I was about to board the train.
I checked underneath and found the pipe coming out from underneath the gearbox had come undone. How? It was fine at 6pm yesterday as I checked for any weeping.
The Euro tunnel recovery towed my car - I did put fuse 11 in - round to the check-in area. I removed the fuse worked through the gears and no nasty noises but it won't vibe out of "select neutral". Hsbc Recovery man bought me ATF and we filled it up. I started the engine went from 3 to R ok when into P it makes a horrible Ducati clutch noise. It will come out of P with no noise.
Anyway it's probably f*#@ed now. Any ideas?
I'm going to look for a replacement great box if that's the consensus.
Someone really doesn't want me to get to France!
Bored now waiting for recovery. 2 hours down......
My first post here. I've just acquired a pre production P38 and someone has cut off the EAS pipes as they go into the valve block, a spring conversion that has then been partially returned to normal. There are new airbags on the corners and I wondered if anyone had suggestions as to the best route forward. There is a secondhand set of pipes on ebay. As part of the restoration would it be best to replace all seals in the valve block and pump and will I need a full diagnostic setup?
Been away with work for a couple of months, came home to find a very sad looking P38 on the drive.
Problem is the navy has seen fit to send me to work 300 miles away for a year and a half! So the P38 is getting tucked away for 6 months then I will have 12 months to sort her out while I still work away.
Aka this gives me 12 months as of May next year to give her a substantial restoration.
I’m thinking doing the following:
Full Bush change some of them are defiantly MOT failures (radius arms for one!)
Ball joints and front axle seals.
Front bearings (advisory for the last 2 years MOTs)
Full brake restoration (Caliper seals and that)
Chassis sand and paint with POR-15
Pull the top of the engine off and sort out the scabby rocker covers
And anything else that crops up while doing the above!
Main thing is the first 6 months and it being winter, what should I do to lay her up?
I’ve pulled the battery cable and that’s about it so far?
Should I jack the chassis up a couple of inches and stick it on axle stands then let the air out of the bags? (As in wheels on the ground but the weight on the stands)
The engine won’t be running for a year and a half so maybe take the plugs out and stick a bit of oil in the cylinders to keep the rings smooth?
Dont even ask about the re-spray! I was 3/4 through and then got crash Deployed for 3 months and came back to a horror show of peeling paint. Sooooooo don’t jundge me as it’s a long term temporary fix! But I coated the car in bed liner just to save the metal for a couple of years. I won’t be driving it in such a shameful state so I’m not too ashamed lol. Just means when I’m ready to put her back on the road I’ll be getting her professional re-sprayed. My theory is it looks terrible but it will save her from the Cornish tin worm seems I live so close to the sea I have to wash salt off my cars each week!
We now have a 2004 TD4 Freelander in the household and finding that the copy of RAVE that I have seems to have very little for the TD4 Freelander.
It only seems to have service procedures for the 1.8 and 2.5 petrol engines - which makes sense as the workshop manual is listed as 3rd edition - NAS.
Is there a version out there that has procedures for the TD4?
Just stopping in to say hello and join the madness! Had my ‘02 for just over a year now and still loving it! Pics below....
Does the P38 V8 engine have unusually large valves?
I bought a valve spring compressor but none of the adapters are large enough. The kits goes up to 30mm but I measured the valve spring (after finding it didn't fit) and it seems to be 31mm.
This is the kit I bought:
neilsen CT1112 Valve Spring Compressor Kit - Red (7-Piece) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0044ZRCMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kl4XBb334JHAM
Anyone know if larger adapters are available? I can't find any so far.
Took my cylinder heads off today and found this inside one of the cylinders:
The car ran completely fine with no roughness or smoke or any else.
I belive that my steering damper is worn out. There are lots of replacements to choose from, tha majority being based on the original. However, for the same price as the standard type I can get one from terrafirma with a bogger tube and greater oil capacity. This sounds great for longivity but there is no mention of whether the loading as been increased. I belive that Terrafirma usualy make stuff for off-road use so will fitting one of these just make my steering feel heavier or does it only effect sharp inputs from the wheels hitting an obstacle such as when off-roading?
Ready for road test after all brake work and find the steering is very stiff when trying to turn right. Turning left is fine but going right wards feels like there is no power assistance. Is it simply air in the PAS system needing bleeding out or is it more serious.
Quickly lifted it on the jack and checked that everything turns fine both ways with the wheels off the ground. Sat front axle on stands and twirling back and forth with pump running in the hope of shifting any air. Feels slightly heavier going rightwards but hard to tell if thats meaningful. Opening bleed nipple on steering box gives an ooze of oil. Is this right or should it gush!
About the only cause I can think of its that I had the steering well to the right when removing the old drag link. Which was very stubborn and had to be hit to shift it. Not something I like doing but I wanted finish replacing all the steering swivels this year as everything was showing wear. Could be coincidence and steering about to go wrong I suppose.
Saturday shop by motorcycle now!
All the bolts have rusted away meaning I can't undo any of them. Having to get a little "creative (destructive) with them - bending and peeling the heatshields back.
I've got all of the bolts out except the very last one on the driver's side. The one closest to the firewall, under the manifold pipes.
I can't get any tools on it at all with the heatshield in place and bent as far as it will go. It's hitting the steering shaft and I'd really, really like to avoid removing that if possible. I don't think removing that will improve matters anyway as the heatshield will still be in place.
I've seen that it can be accessed through the wheel arch but presumably only with the heatshield removed? If I can get to it through the wheel arch with the heatshield on and the steering shaft in place I'll go that route but access is tight for a jack where I'm parked. Don't really want to add work for myself if it's not going to work.
Any other bright ideas on how to get at this bolt?
So yesterday im fitting rear bags, its still running round on originals i would say, so i go to pull the clips,, hmm theyve corroded away, i end up cutting both top and bottom to remove, put lhr in, no problem, fit rhr, no problems, check for leaks, check on all heights, all good, so i load the car up with tools, jack ect, go to garsge and unload jack, chocks ect, go round to my car, put tools in the boot, lock up both cars, talking to my nieghbour when kaboom ! rhr bag blew in half, must admit it looked half decent, but was rolled closed and i didnt get under after the install, i just wonder how long its been sitting on a shelf somewhere
Hello folks, I am wondering if I can please call on your collective experiences?
Yesterday morning my P38 (Diesel Auto) suddenly developed a vibration that starts at 20mph and then fades out above 30mph, coming back more subdued at 70mph with a feel very similar to when you drive over the rumble strips on the edges of a motorway.
The vibration at 20-30mph is quite pronounced and is felt through the floor and pedals. It is felt as a general vibration through the steering wheel as opposed to any direct forces being felt through the steering.
There were no preceeding warnings, I haven't hit anything as far as I am aware and I have not noticed any unusual noises (over the clatter of the diesel engine :) ).
I have accelerated hard from standstill to load everything up with no vibration issues or unusual behaviour until I reach the 20-30mph bracket.
I have yet to try locking it in gear and driving through to see if the gearing has any bearing on it.
I have had the front wheels off and rebalanced today with no improvement.
Whilst the wheels were off I checked over the front axle but found nothing amiss.
All four front ball joints were replaced with quality new items last year.
It has had good quality new tyres and brake discs in the past six months.
The nearside wheel bearing assy. was replaced about a month ago.
I have had an initial check of the prop-shafts and cannot feel any play in the U/Js. I will try lubricating them when I get chance, assuming that there are grease nipples (off to check RAVE again straight after this).
Has anyone experienced similar? The internet suggests that it is more common to have vibration issues at higher speeds.
Any help or pointers greatfully recieved.
I've got a bit of an issue with the Sat Nav. It's hardly crucial but it's a bit annoying. The location keeps resetting to London, and it takes about 45 minutes to an hour for the system to pick up the location. Once it's on, it's perfect - but then the system loses the location when you switch off. I'm running the latest disk that OB sent me, and stupidly I threw out the old one so I can't test but the problem only started a few weeks after I swapped disks.
Has anyone else had something like this before?
Rear left caliper is leaking past the seals.. .oops!
Couple of rear brake pipes while they're at it.
Let's see how they do with the bleeding!
Well the grand fix the brakes up properly in one hit project has well and truly hit the buffers. All the hexagons on the solid pipe connectors at the rear are severely rusted. Probably not gonna come undone, especially if the same gorilla who overtightened the front ones did the installation. Even if they do come off they certainly aren't going back.
For now flexi pipes and hard pipes are OK so I'll make do with just changing the callipers but something will need to be done in due course. (Which will be after I've got my lift installed for decent working room underneath in an indoor environment.) Looks like the long twin pipes from the booster for my year 2000 car can still be got OEM at about £230 (ouch) but supply of the short ones looks iffy.
Is there a reliable pattern supplier or is it a case of roll your own with Kunifer, flanging tool and a set of screwed unions? I have the tools and enough experience so no issue with DIY if need be. Ready made is easier tho'.
If DIY is the only way to go who does proper Kunifer at a decent price. Last lot I got from a factor was ordinary copper, and too thin at that. Remonstrating with the supplier basically got a shrug "All same stuff innit". Annoying but I didn't get it for brake lines anyway so no great issue. Obviously I want all the fittings in stock before I start so who is a good source for the male screw fittings and are they all same size and threads? Presumably stainless is the best material for the threaded couplings. The short pipes on mine were garage replaced shortly after I got it so only 4 years or so for the hexagons to corrode away. Not good.
About 20 years since I last did a hard pipe replacement DIY style so I'm way out of touch with the market.
Drag link ball joint taper is well and truly stuck in the steering drop link. Even a 12 ton ram operated separator won't budge it! Failed removal always abuses things in greater or lesser degree so, even though it was OK before its now got to be done. Whole link is well rusty and seal on wheel end joint is pretty manky too.
Looks like the only way its coming off will be to take the steering drop link off complete with drag link and get medieval with it in the work shop. If I show it the angle grinder and chop ball off the stem so as to have a straight push with the shop press it ought to go.
$64,000 question is how much of battle is it to get the steering drop link off and back on correctly. Do you need a special puller? Official Land Rover device is "impressive" in both price and appearance. Bearmach sell a fairly weedy looking alternative. I can make something to take a 12 ton ram that should be effective.
Anyone got a recommendation?
Bought a wheel bearing for the ML the other day, didn't expect fitting it to be dead easy but didn't expect to get stuck at such an early point as removing the wheel!
On my wheel bolt to 17mm hex adaptor some of the male security drive pattern has snapped off, so now I'm going to have to find another method of getting the security bolts out of all 4 wheels.
Haven't yet measured the security bolts outside head diameter (circular so nothing to grip to, will need a tool that hammers on and bites in), the other bolt heads are 17mm (hex) so without measuring would guess outside diameter will be 17mm..
I'd imagine there'll be tools on the market that are far better than others. Loads on Ebay but would rather not buy plastic/snap-off quality stuff!
My dad's car went for an MOT on Saturday. It was done at Kwik Fit and it's an 08 plate Mazda 5 1.8 petrol.
Prior to the MOT he had new front discs and pads as well as ARB drop links.
With the new parts fitted he drove off to the MOT and everything was fine.
The car went through the MOT and everything was fine.
Soon after leaving the MOT his car started making all sorts of noises.
Front left wheel clicks when turning.
There's a bang/knock somewhere central when changing gear or letting off the power but staying in gear.
There's a kind of scratchy/rubbing/grindy noise somewhere in the front left.
Lastly, there's a creaking/squeaking noise somewhere high up on the front right when turning.
As mentioned, the car was fine before the MOT and the MOT didn't flag up anything suggesting these problems would be imminent.
My thoughts are CV joint for the clicking, gearbox mount for the banging, driveshaft support bearing (if it has one) for scratchy/rubbing noise and top mount for the creaking.
The problem is, how suddenly this all came on after leaving the MOT and how nothing was found by the tester. All of the noises are very loud and noticeable.
I don't want to accuse Kwik Fit of anything but is there anything they could have done to sabotage this kind of stuff to make work for themselves? My dad said the whole place was dead, nothing going on and several techs standing around smoking and chatting.
Or, is it likely that the tester was really, really bad at his job of finding this stuff and the MOT itself is suspect?
My other half recently got a 17-plate Astra, hates it and wants to get rid.
She wants a Freelander 1 instead. Isn't too fussed if it's pre- or post-facelift on looks, doesn't want petrol economy and doesn't want LPG - so looking at diesel.
Am I right in thinking the TD4 is significantly better than the earlier Rover/Honda L-Series diesel and would be the one to go for?
Besides the looks, were there any other notable changes with the facelift? The TD4 seems to be available on pre- and post-facelift cars.
Anything to look out for on Freelanders in general?
Desperate moments!! Before I take out a second mortgage and purchase a set for a one time use, does anyone have set that will fit 20" wheels laying around? I really don't want to buy a set that I will only 'use' once. I'm going back to Italy for Xmas and need to carry them down in the Alps.