I have previously posted a mod I did to my car which involved fitting a BMW E34/M3 coolant expansion tank. The tank is almost the same but it has the advantage of having a level sensor fitted. Can't recommend more strongly having a coolant level sensor. It saves a lot of grief.
Anyway, to cut a long story short, I was just on the Island4x4 webside ordering yet more bits and low and behold, someone now makes a level sensor which directly replaces the screw cap on the p38 OEM tank. The BMW tank mod is no longer needed, stay with the p38 tank.
Can't go wrong at that price even if it is Britpart.
Both my H&H and Vogue 50 have their factory TV systems but both are still analogue. Does anyone know how I can convert them to digital whilst still retaining the 'factory look' and VHS players.
Hope everyone's well.
I think I've had my first brush with key fob shenanigans.
I was working on the car this afternoon, fitting the trim back in after fitting the new fan controller and refurbed switchpack and HEVAC controller. So I had two key fobs with me, both sitting on the top of the dash. After I'd finished, I put one key into the ignition, tried to start the car and got the engine disabled message.... and this was the original key that used to do everything. Puzzled.
But maybe I should go back to the beginning:
When I got the car I was given three fobs - we'll call them 1, 2 and 3.
Fob 1 was the only one I was using. The other two were in the house. I thought they were actually broken/dead batteries, but I was also concerned that relying on just #1 was a bit risky. Examining #2 and #3 I discovered the little red light was working on both. Result! So I took #2 down, synched it with the car just be sticking it in the ignition and had 2 good keys. Happy chappy.
So, today. Fobs 1 and 2 are clipped together (don't ask me why). Opened the car, drove it into the garage, took the keys out and left them on the dash. Because of the work, I had 2 or 3 of the doors being opened and shut frequently.
Finished the work, went to start the car, picked up the fobs, put #1 into the ignition, and got the engine disabled; press fob message. Tried pressing the buttons on fob #1 and it did absolutely nothing.
In the end I put fob #2 into the ignition, started the car, parked and locked it, with fob #2. Fob #1 - the original one I was using from the begining will now not lock or unlock the doors - but will start the car again!?
I thought synchronising was as simple as putting the key into the ignition?
I did look at the drivers manual - but couldn't find anything helpful in there.
I'm hoping it's something simple - but any advice on what I might have done wrong? Hopefully I've explained things clearly enough.
My 1995 4.0 has a weird shifting issue that I'm currently experiencing now. The transmission goes through all the gears normally and smoothly but it does hold onto designated shift points. For example 1st to 2nd will shift at 1700 rpm, 2nd to 3rd will shift at 2,250 rpm. When I plugged in the faultmate, the transmission thinks its in low range even though it is in high. The transmission also holds the gears whenever I let go of the accelerator pedal. Also, whenever I press sport mode, it the sport light in the center console lights up dimly without any indication of sport on the dash. The transmission also skips 2nd and 3rd in sport mode hence its smoother, it goes from 1st to 4th immediately. I also have a transfer neutral warning appearing on the message center whenever I turn the car on. Searching in the forums makes me think its the Transfer case ECU going bad. I already have two on order, just waiting for it after this quarantine lockdown we're having. I have driven another P38 and its a completely different experience. Hopefully the TCU solves the problem but I'm wondering if anyone on here has experienced the same thing? Thanks everyone! :)
The 50th has in-car entertainment at the back of the centre console. PO ripped out the old vhs machine and replaced it with a dvd - fair enough - but the vhs unit was probably 1.5 DIN, the DVD unit is just 1, and he/ she did a p*** poor job of remounting it, so I want to fix it. The centre console is leather covered, and I need to fashion a fascia to go at the back of it, in which to mount the single din unit, for passenger access. It mounts just above the floor vents. The fascia ideally should be slightly curved, to match the contours of the back of the console. I can use wood and epoxy to build the innards of what I need to mount the dvd player, but I can't work out what material is best to use for the face plate (which I will then cover with a thin layer of foam and faux leather). I'm messing around with some acrylic at the moment, but it's a bit painful. I could try a sheet of ABS, or acetate. Or try and fab something in fibre glass, even papier mache !! I'm sure there's something better/ easier - ideas anyone?
Sorry this isn't range rover stuff but I'd appreciate your thoughts on this...
My missus has been learning to drive, we bought her an old Corsa to practice driving with me sat beside her but because I've been so busy she's spent more time driving with her instructor than with me.
Now I'm not so busy to me it seems the ideal time for us to go out in the Corsa together for her to practice driving - the roads are quieter than they're likely to be at any other time and if we don't need to refuel we're still isolated in the Corsa, which has a full tank of petrol at the moment... so enough fuel for plenty driving practice without having to refuel and bring either of us close to any other people. But she takes 'You must not leave the house except for work, shopping or medical reasons' very literally and refuses driving practice.
I think I take the common sense point of view, what do you think? The only potential issues I see are if: She crashes the car (lol) / or the car breaks down (so we'd need to call AA/RAC which might bring us within close contact of the services guy). Hardly concerns that are likely to be realised IMO. Not a joy ride or excuse to break the monotony of lockdown but something useful and productive timed ideally - What do you think?.
I first saw a Range Rover P38 when I was around 8 years old when my dad's friend picked him up from the house. It was a british racing green P38A. I told myself that hopefully someday I was gonna have a car like that. It became my dream car of almost 13 years. Around 2016, I was offered a white 4.0 SE that was for sale by a close friend of my friend. I really wanted to buy the car because it was how I wanted my P38 to look like with the facelifted lights, and 18 inch hurricane alloys. The car had a broken bumper and a bad interior with a warped dashboard. The car was sold the day it was offered to me and I already lost hope in getting that particular car.
A year after, knowing that I like P38's so much, another friend informed that his neighbor has a white P38(Quite hard to find in our country). Upon knowing about it, I toured around his street in order to see this p38 that he was talking about, and I saw the unit that it was the Rover that I missed out on. I would pass by this street where the white P38 was parked at different times just to be able to see a P38 during the day. I later knew that the owner of that same P38 was also a friend of the person who first offered it to me.
In 2018, that same friend messaged me again that the same white P38 was sale. Upon receiving his message I was instantly very excited and decided to go out of the class I was attending in order to have a chance to talk to him and go home. He gave me the owners contact number, and I immediately scheduled to view the car the next day. Immediately after, I called my parents to inform them that I was gonna look at a car and if they were gonna allow me to buy it. (I was only 20 years old at the time and needed permission) I told my dad that it was the same white P38 that I was stalking from time to time. I got shocked when my Dad told me that he was gonna accompany me to look at the car since he doesn't really accompany me to look at cars, and more especially P38's. On the way to view the car, my dad whispered to me that "we're only looking at the car and weren't buying." To which I already accepted in myself that they wouldn't allow to buy the car, and I would miss out on it again. I saw the car in much better condition, with a new interior, and it was running very smooth. I test drove the car around our village and was really happy with the cars overall condition. Upon getting back at the owner's house, I was shocked when it was my dad who asked the owner about the price, knowing that we weren't gonna buy it. The owner seeing my enthusiasm, even gave us a discount without asking just cause he saw how enthusiastic I was with his car. We finished up the deal, and brought home the car the next day. That day was one of the happiest days of my life, and the car still brings a smile to my face everytime it starts. I really hope to keep this car forever, because it really is my dream car achieved.
So here is my dream come true. A white North American Spec P38A 4.0 SE (ignore the badge) that was built on April of 1995.
Here are some pictures of the car when it was offered to me around 2016 with the cracked bumper, and tired interior.
Car when I first got it
I had the car detailed by a professional and this was the outcome. Not bad for a car that is turning 25 in April.
This is the car at a recent Land Rover club of the Philippines show with Vitesse edition P38's, and a P38 group meet with GeorgeB.
This is how the car stands now, with the new interior, dash, and mondial 18 inch wheels. It is currently sitting at 144,400 miles.
Thanks for reading guys! Hello from the Philippines! I hope to meet you guys when I visit the UK in the future. :)
Hi...still getting to grips with my P38 and on a long drive recently I discovered something else...when I press the buttons on the hevac controller, say to change the flow of air from feet to face nothing happens. By that I mean there is no noise of the flaps moving to change air flow...is this likely to be the unit itself or something else..it has the book symbol on the screen too ...
Any suggestions please...oh...the fans seem to work as air does come out just seems to be in a fixed position. Thanks Dave
Now my fusebox is on all of the time, no connection issues, it used to drop power when I locked the car .
When I put my RR P38 4.6 1995 into reverse, on all normal cars the mirror drops to the memory saved position. BUT on my RR the mirror goes UP when I put in reverse. I have saved the memory many times and saved the reverse position too many times. But up it goes instead of down.. It makes me smile when it happens but it is definitely annoying when I am reversing. Ideas, gratefully received, otherwise a computer will need to be kicked, expensively .... Although, I would have to think it is the one under a seat, ?
Mentioned somewhere my mistrust and disaffection for OE instruments, geared to provide minimal relief to unwary drivers, and in the case of the P38's ECT, downright scary - having the Nano reach 117 and the needle isn't moving because it moves after 120 is worthy of distateful words for whoever designed it that way.
I always thought of getting some extra info, I reutilized my old Scangauge and fitted it where the front ashtray is, and use it to monitor IAT and ECT more precisely (at least I know better when I am going to blow!), along with fuel calculations for trip computer, VLT, etc. But this is not enough.
I have a battery of old school VDO gauges I was going to fit to my HZJ laying around inutilized, but they barely match the clean shapes of the P38 cockpit, so I decided to settle for a more sober look and just put something small where the rubber mat sits in the dashboard, and just fit up to three gauges. Now is where the fun starts.
1) has anyone ever installed or seen anything installed there? Having the dashboard out (all peeled off, I had a lot of fun with the glue!), I would like to drill and run all cables while everything is accessible. I've noticed the dash center indentation where the mat goes fits fairly well a mini MudPod, which does fit three gauges and has a similar "grain" finish to the top of the dash, ok, but the underside is taken by the ducts of the HeVAC, there is not much room to manouver. Any opinion before I drill carelessly? :-)
2) to minimize the mess but maximize the info I found that the Madman EMS is a nice pretty package, recommend you look at it. Price is hefty, but has a lot of inputs. Unfortunately, the EMS2 is out of production, its black/green dial was perfect to match the rest of the dashboard. The new EMS3 is full color like those Japanese aftermarket radios, but that is what it is. Inputs are VLT, EGT (I guess don't need this on the V8 at the time, unless I go S/C), CLD (Coolant level), ECT (Coolant temp), Oil pressure (or Boost), Oil temp, and up to 2 outputs where via relay you can activate something else, for example the condenser fans.
3) Now, I got all the wiring for the MadMan and I am wondering where to attach myself to. I will run all wires to the engine bay, but leave the EGT disconnected at the time. My plan was to wire:
a) Oil pressure - what to use? there is like no place to fit one around the filter, maybe one of these "sandwitch flanges" that fit in between filter and block?
b) Oil temp - not sure yet usually the suggestion is a plug in the sump, either drilling, or replace the sump plug with one with the sensor. I do not like any of these ideas, so I thought the following: the gearbox cooler has a temp sensor on the side (more on this later), what if I fit one to the engine oil cooler and monitor from there? I am planning to take the gearbox cooler sensor out of my donor Rangie and run it with a tester to see what response it provides ....
c) Coolant temp is fairly easy, I will select the hottest point - I think is the top hose - to have a separate reading from the sensor that feeds the Motronic (and the Nano or the Scangauge in my case). 2 readings is better than one!
d) Coolant level is also easy, I had a mate in Italy done in his D2, using BMW expansion tank with provision for a sensor and a sensor itself, wired accordingly
e) back in the day where every hot day was a dat of terror, I've spliced into the switch for the condenser fans to have the possibility to activate them manually. I will now wire this switch to the MadMan relayed output, to have the gauge directly activate the fans once a worrisome temp is detected.
Since I am not a master in electrics, anyone that wants to throw a suggestion on this ... be welcome - even a "why are you bothering?" but I have already passed that stage :-)))
Will write later about the other auxiliary gauges I am planning ...
New one on me. Car parked up and locked on my drive and suddenly it generates a loud continuous clicking noise.
This is with everything turned off and no key in the ignition.
I investigate under the bonnet, check relays etc and the noise seems to be from the vicinity of the ABS pump. Quite loud. Under the fuse box but difficult to pinpoint exactly, even with a mechanics stethoscope.
I turn on the ignition, ABS pump starts and the clicking stops. The pump runs for maybe 35 to 40 secs before it builds pressure and cuts out. So I suspect the accumulator needs changing. It has lasted 20 years.
Car drives and brakes OK. If I lock it again it is quiet for a few hours but the clicking returns. Presumably as the brake pressure drops.
Question ... what can the clicking be with everthing turned off?
I have the dash off my RR.
Q1. The blend and distribution motors were 90% ok before I started (periodic service book symbol), but anyway, now that I have everything out the HEVAC is showing me “Feedback circuit on RH blend motor faulty” (or some such – reporting via Nanocom).
I'm not an electronics expert, but possibly know enough to be dangerous. I can move the motors back and forth with a 9V battery. I took the 10k ohm pot off the board of the RH blend motor (ie desoldered it), and it goes all the way from 0 to 10k ohms (measured on multi-meter), but when I soldered it back to the board it goes from 0 to 3k ohms mid-range, and back to zero again (measured at the circuit board) - looking at the ETM there is a dotted line going from the pot to the motor, so maybe something is messing with the way the DMM measures resistance. Thing is all 3 blend motors seem to be like that (I didn't remove the pots from all 3 though!!). I’m just measuring this on a Uni_T multi-meter 20k ohm range – the fact that all 3 are the same may just mean my meter’s getting it wrong. Or maybe my test is wrong (just measured between the white/ wiper and one of the reference legs of the pot)?
Anyway – if the feedback error is not due to a dodgy pot then what else ? wiring? I think I may scrap the RH blend motor anyway, as the case has been cooked by a hot heater matrix manifold at some point (although the innards look fine ) but the principle is so simple that it then annoys me I can’t crack it !! As future-proofing I'm considering just installing 3 brand new ones at this point - just because accessing the blend motors is such a PITA.
Q2. Has anyone had any luck freeing the Distribution mechanism - I've greased all the pivots i can see, but it's still quite stiff - the gearing in the blend motor shifts it without complaint though. There seem to be two black toothed wheels driven by the main grey one, how do the black wheels come off ? Pull hard? I found a link to someone who had dismantled the whole heater box to do this, which i'm not very keen on.
As above, I'm hoping to remove these to get them sent down to Marty for a fix. I'd do the job in the garage, but after that it would be good to move the car back out into the carport.
Will it still run / move with these things removed? I know I oughtn't to "big up" the Defender too much on here :-) but unless it's missing a wheel or something it will still go....!
It seems to me that neither the switch panel or HEVAC should be 'mission critical' as far as the car starting and running is concerned, but I don't know if the car's brain will like them being missing?
The old bus passed her mot a week ago..
I've just checked the emissions sheet!!
And she passed with the skin on her teeth!!
I was amazed, they plugged in an OBD reader into her, plus a thermometer down the dipstick and the thing in the exhaust!!
Not bad for being sat for upto 2 years though!
Moving on to the front cover which came back from the vapour blasters with the oil pressure relief valve in bits and parts missing.
Many thanks to Turner engineering for a replacement piston.
Looking at the oil pressure by pass valve there is a hollow tube within the spring should there also be one on the bypass valve?
Have you all noticed that all RR's seem to have their own aroma?
Or is it just me?
Mine seems to have an "atmosphere" around it, i can't explain the smell but it's definitely been there since i bought it..
Or am i alone?
Another question gents.
When accelerating gently she changes up at around 1500rpm which is about right..
However when she gets to 35mph she seems to change from 3rd to 4th lockup seemingly missing 4th altogether and instantly locking the converter..
The annoying thing is it'll hold 4th down to 30mph which makes for jerking around if you are a bit hasty with the throttle and it's a tad annoying if you want to overtake a cyclist or whatever as it just labours.
she changes down below 30...
I find i have to go past 1/2 throttle before it changes down to what i think is 3rd..
I have changed the oil in the box..
Would it be something to to with the TQ apply circuit in the valvebody or is it more of a TCM related thing?
Mine never worked from the get go..
However with everything grinding to a halt and the apocalyse approaching i'm gonna see if i can get some life out of it.. lol
When you insert the CD nav disk it just shows "No disk"..
Would it be worth taking it apart and giving it a squirt of contact cleaner, or is it a more serious fault with the drive itself?
I just wanted to write a quick post on here as I haven't been here in ages, and I've had a metric shitload of emails from people (some on here, some just enquiries from the website) which I've pretty much had to read and hope I'd find a time to reply to - which I haven't!
The last 6 or so months for me have been stupidly busy work-wise, I spent probably 5 nights at home between the middle of November and Christmas Eve when I flew out of the UK to the USA to go on tour with a theatre show.
As some of you know - my 'real' job is in the entertainment industry, I'm a Lighting Designer/Tech/ AV tech etc for events and shows. My current role is the Head Lighting Tech on an USA National Tour of 'An American In Paris' which we started tech rehearsals in Washington State on the 2nd January, after I'd been to South Carolina just after Xmas to de-rig and get an LED video screen packaged up to be shipped to the tour. The tour opened in Yakima, Washington on 11th January, and was supposed to be touring all the way through until the 7th June - where most of the shows are all 'one nighters' Ie we do one show in a venue in a day, and then move somewhere else - instead of like a lot of shows where you'll be in one venue for a week!
From memory we are due to hit about 85 ish venues in 30 odd states, and do 130 odd performances. Our schedule has a load of travel days where we as crew are travelling overnight on a tour bus, and then in a location for most of the day, before leaving again in the middle of the night for the next venue. We also had 2 full days off scheduled in the whole tour!
Our show tours in 3 x 53ft trucks, one of which is JUST lighting/video equipment, the other 2 have audio, costumes, scenery, props etc in them. My day generally starts just before 8am walking into a new venue and figuring out where we are putting everything that day, where our mains power comes from, where we have to run it to, how we are running cables to keep them out of the way of doorways, loading access, cast access etc.
At 8am, I'm in charge of unloading our truck, with local crew who are varying levels of usefulness in each city. By 0830, the truck is usually unloaded, I've had my morning workout in the process and we then get to hanging all the lighting. Some of it is on a pre-rigged trussing system which we hang with electric chain hoists - other parts of the lighting package hang on battens in the theatre.
We generally are finished with our load in by 15:30/16:00 and have a couple of hours to go out and get coffee/food, before being back for a show call to run the lighting for the show. The show itself usually starts around 19:30, and runs for just over 2 1/2 hours, including a 20 minute intermission. We're usually finished the show just after 10pm, and then we start loading it back out, and then once everything is packed away and flightcased, we load the truck about midnight. We now finish our load out around 00:30, have a shower in the venue, and then get on our tour bus and go to bed (there are 12 crew travelling on the bus, and we have a bunk to sleep in and a couple of lounge style seating areas). We generally leave a venue about 01:30 once everyone has showered and on the bus. Maybe we'll have a drink, or a bit of food, and then head to bed, with the alarm set of 07:30 to get up and do it all again!
A couple of weeks ago now we had 7 shows in 7 venues, in 7 days.... one of them was a matinee show, where our normal 8am load in is earlier at 6am!! I worked over 90 hours, so then when we had a travel day, I spent most of it in bed asleep! We've been through the midwest, where some days it was around -21C when we were unloading the truck OUTSIDE!!! And then reloading it outside in the same kind of temperatures at midnight!
Every day is different - venue, crew, how much of the show goes in depending on venue size/layout/access... we had one place where we had to unload the 3 trucks on the street and everything went up on an elevator on the outside of the venue to get it inside... and it started snowing on the loadout, whilst we were trying to load the trucks on the road!
This is my 'normal' kind of lifestyle, and P38's are my hobby, which I do love working on - but unfortunately it's all had to take a backseat due to this tour and schedule. Likewise, emails that I've had, I've tried to read and then failed at responding to - because of time, or where I have had time off, I've been sleeping, or trying to get out and about and see some of where I've been etc. So my apologies to everyone who has been in touch, and I haven't gotten around to replying to - and the fact I've not been on here either!
Why am I writing this now?? Well, I have a bit of time off... due to the coronavirus outbreaks, we were told a couple of nights ago that some venues were cancelling or rescheduling, and we now had a week layoff at the start of April (which would have been a welcome break by that point!!). The next day (Friday 13th incidentally!) we got a message to say that as of the 14th we were all being laid off for 5 weeks until the 21st April. We were in Florida at the time, and everyone has been disbanded back home. Well, ish... I'm currently sitting in New York, waiting to find out if I'm flying home on Friday, or being put up somewhere out here to hole up and wait out the layoff. Part of me wants to get home, so I can then have some time to myself to reset, and hopefully catch up on a load of p38 jobs for myself and other people. Part of me worries that if I do that, then I'll struggle to get back out here with the travel ban to the US from the UK/Europe - if that's still in effect when the tour is due to restart.. so hence I'm in a bit of limbo waiting to see what's going on.
At least it's given me the time to start replying to some emails, and get on the forum again a little bit. Hopefully I'll be able to spend a bit more time on here and get the rest of my emails caught up on over the next few days!
Thanks for your patience if you have emailed, and I apologise in advance for when the tour starts again, and I have to get back into the routine of lots of work, little sleep, and zero spare time!!