Hi,
had some vibrations in the drivetrain, traced it down to the front universal joint having to be replaced (btw. who in hell designed the rear flange of the front propeller shaft to be behind the crossmember, making the task unbelievably, annoyingly long). Changed the universal joint, checked all others, they were fine.

Now, only some weeks later, again vibrations and the same (new) UV has play again, much more than the last time !! And the rear one of the front shaft too !!
How can that happen so fast ? Did I do something wrong ? Checked RAVE but they do not cover that change. They were filled with grease allright.

Only thing that comes to mind is that I was driving a lot in snow in these weeks, so a lot of ABS and traction control, does that bring unwanted, destoying vibrations into the drive train that kill the UVs? Or just shitty quality UVs ? But they should last longer than some weeks....!

Next on the list of minor annoyances is the Cruise control on the 02...
It was fine, then just stopped.
The light on the switch is off, however, I suspect that is a bad bulb.
I do have difficulty connecting to Hella CC with Nano, but when it eventually does, I get to check all functions.
If the dash switch is not pressed, I cannot ever connect, and if I switch dash off whilst reading data, it stops, so I think switch is OK
Speed input valid, and follows actual speed whilst driving.
Brake light shows ON when pressed.
Wheel buttons show proper response.
Vacuum lines are good, and I swapped in a known good vac pump/ diaphragm module.
Swapped in the ECU from the 99, which is the same part number. No difference.
What I cannot get to change is the "Brake / Clutch switch" status. It stays reporting "Pressed" no mater how I manipulate the
CC switch on the pedal.
So, I have "Cruise Status" DISABLED showing on line one of the inputs screen.
Cruise is "SET" in Becm settings
Anything else to check? I will remove cruise control brake switch next and test on the bench.

As an aside, Oddly, the CC on the 99 is duff as well at the moment. Nano reads same for it as well. Dash switch on 99 does light up.
It is as difficult to connect to with the Nano as the 02.

The reason for this question is that I am going to be driving from Oregon to Southern California next week and planning to stop at as many breakers as I can that have P38s......
So far, 2. A 96 and a 98. And that's from 21 breakers!! Getting scarce!
I am after a differential for the front axle of my 02. ( And a handful of other odds and sods)
Don't need it yet, but wanted to get one as there are fewer and fewer P38s coming up in breakers yards.
So, is a 4.6 1998 differential a 4 pin and if I have a choice, would a front axle be in better condition than the rear?
Any other parts I should have on the shelf? I'm thinking transfer case?
With any kind of luck, I will be able to power up the becm and use nano to pull up the mileage.. I'm good with anything under 150k miles.
Cheers!

When my front propshaft snapped, the car would no longer go into park.

I’m a visual learner so unless I physically see what needs adjusting, I won’t know. Is it the cable that needs adjusting, or the XYZ switch?

If it’s the cable, what do I do? https://ebay.us/m/SAhzw4
If it’s the XYZ switch, is this hidden/what to adjust? - https://ebay.us/m/jhB24x

TIA.

As the title says. How the heck can a blend motor short to positive when it is mounted onto a pcb
which is encased in plastic, then screwed to a plastic box?
I have had an entertaining day chasing my Right hand blend motor shorted to ground issue.....
Removed, tested, cleaned, replaced. Same error.
Tried 3 different, known good HVAC heads. Same problem.
Swapped in a used replacement. Problem went away! Only to reappear as "Potentiometer feedback circuit failed" (or something like that)
Put in a 3rd B/M after testing, cleaning, and re testing. This one faulted with Motor shorted to positive.
Took the motor out of the one with Pot failed error, and put it in the one with Motor shorted issue.
Got motor shorted error on this one.
I am thinking now that the caps on the B/M PCB are the issue as they will die with age.
How else could stray current trigger a fault?
Tomorrows job will be to remove these caps and see what is happening.
I am sure they are there to filter the noise from the brushed motor, Worth a try...
I will source replacements and try that if no joy.
If Marty was around, I am sure he would have a better plan.
I am open to suggestions.
I will report back tomorrow......

According to JLR Classic parts anyway. Presumably as it ceased production in 2016, it has now been out of production for 10 years so they are now offering parts via the JLR site https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/

As above really, our 2002 Vogue SE is in need of a new rear bumper as the metal work behind it has rotted out.

Irritating really as there's no rust on the rest of the car but hey ho!

If anyone has a rear bumper with good metalwork on it then please let me know :) Ours is body colour but I believe the non body coloured ones can be smoothed and painted.

Don't mind travelling for a good one.

Thanks,
David.

happy new year to all at the pub, wishing all a good year and happy times.

I purchased my P38 with 80W/2 Autobeam branded H4 LED bulbs installed. One bulb has now expired.

Upon checking online, there’s various LED bulbs across various power outputs. Although skeptical of the specifications sellers list for their bulbs, I’ve found one that is 100W for each bulb. Apart from potentially blinding other users, would this fry anything?

https://ebay.us/m/C72TCF

My rear left passenger brake has worn out, and the disc has also become damaged. The right side is fine, so I do suspect a seized calliper.

Having never done such a job before, do I need to bleed the system (having the other half press the brake pedal a few times, before I connect the hose back up)?

Seems a simple job but want to be certain.

Tackling another job (will check RAVE when home). My front propshaft snapped (maybe a seized VC). Now, my front differential is making noises - confirmed by a 4x4 mechanic. (I’ve done the tests for a seized VC, all good) So, I’d want to change the oil to see if that helps.

Anyway, I digress. It seems fairly simple. Is this correct?
Oil - 1.6L of 75w90
Syringe
Oil pan + magnet for any metal
Do I need new plugs?

TIA.

just like to wish everyone at the pub, merry Christmas from Australia. happy travels over the festive season and good health, we all need that one. (;

(Initial PM to Lpgc, who suggested I repost here)
2006 L322 4.2 SC
This is a bit of a hail mary at this point. I have been troubleshooting (because I have no formal training, just the manual and SDD v165)the 2 lean codes 171/174 (only those) for about 2 months now. I have tried many things. Yesterday I stumbled on your replies to a gentleman with a nearly identical issue about 2 years ago. Would you be willing to give me some clues? If yes, what info do you need? Still newish to SDD and have trouble getting files out of it for others to view.

Thanks,

Josh

My 4.6 V8 was rebuilt at 165k, before my ownership. There's a constant tapping sound regardless of engine temperature when the engine is on.
I did take it to my mechanic, and he suggested it was the camshaft.

I've lived with this for 8k miles now, but I'd like to know if there's anything that I can do to suppress the sound. Upon checking online, there are only two options that I can think of:

1. Liqui Moly Hydraulic Lifter Additive - do I have nothing to lose here, or is this as bad as placing Radweld in the coolant tank?
2. Oil change - since the rebuild, it has 20w50 Valvoline VR1. I have seen online forums discussing what oil to use, and this is mentioned, so perhaps I can stick with the same one and give it a clean flush? If not, do I go back to the recommended 10w50? https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/rr-p38-4-6l-oil-type.366660/

Of course, if the camshaft is knackered, the above won't do much but I thought I'll try the cheaper options first.

Purchased another 08 supercharged RR for cheap about 2 years ago. Did not move but ran well with crankshaft correlation fault. Front driveshaft broke, easy fix. Correlation fault, not so much. I did hear the chain rattle occasionally, But I decided it was too good to just save for parts, so in we go. Main timing chains were tight, secondary chains looked good as well. Tensioner on bank 1 stuck in collapsed position during a second look 3 days later. Replaced it and retimed the engine. Runs even better now but i still have a correlation fault. I then swapped the timing solenoids to the opposite banks to see if the fault moved with the solenoid, but it did not.
Got my gap tool out and did some comparisons with the other Rover.
"Intake variable camshaft timing" on both banks reads within 5 degrees per bank on both Rovers. "Actual inlet variable valve timing" on the good Rover both banks are the same (0-0.4). On the faulty Rover bank 2 matches the good Rover (0-0.4) but bank 1 reads 9-11 degrees.
Does this point to a faulty camshaft position sensor?

Attached are the graphs that i took from each vehicle.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uu8KleuSBdLJXQyMiadj7cq0-FLidDDB/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DqGWNU90F1wxbjdkeqgwetMbEDuHghjv/view?usp=sharing

The car starts & runs OK. I can hear the ABS pump running. If I drive off without touching the brakes the ABS light goes out. However if I touch the brake pedal even very lightly then I get a beep & then ABS FAULT appears on the dash closely followed by TRACTION FAILURE. Another important data point is that the brake lights don't work. Nanocom finds no faults in ABS (WABCO D) or gearbox.

Googling I found a couple of threads where a new brake switch fixed the problem so I just ordered a replacement for delivery on Tuesday for €15.99 delivered from Amazon. It's not genuine but a genuine LR part costs €50 & I can't get delivery until after Xmas.

Here is someone with the same problem. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/p38-brake-light-switch-abs-fault-traction-failure.200305/

Anyone care to speculate why a duff brake switch would throw the ABS FAULT & TRACTION FAILURE? If anyone sees these messages it's definitely worth checking whether the brake lights are working. I realise now that I was driving about all day yesterday without brake lights.

Hey all,
coming with a question.
I've P38 Motronic which doesn't want to start.
Battery is brand new, I've changed it because the old one was degraded and I thought it doesn't start because of it.
This Saturday, I've changed cooling fluid and thermostat, run the engine and everything was fine.
This Sunday, I unlocked the car tried to start it and just heard "click" and that's all. No cranking.
I've received yesterday my Nanocom Evolution and just used it for a first time. BeCM says no errors.
On "contact" I'm trying to look for info from the "Faults" of "Motronic", but it gives me error that cannot connect to ECU.

I've looked over RAVE and I should be checking circuit breaker 1 and 5 in the fuse box in the engine. Didn't do that, still, will do it after a couple of hours, as still being on work.
Is that the only possible issue?

P.S.
Just remembered that before changing the thermostat, I've towed the car, without the key being on position 1 and without having a fuse in position 11. But I've changed the thermostat after towing and I've started the engine and got it warmed up (for air bleeding of the coolant system), so this should not be an issue, but just to mention it.

Are there any other possible reasons for this to happen?

Trying to diagnose a fault by long distance so I don't have a wasted 600 mile round trip (as the car is in France) and need someone with a 1999 or later car to do a little test for me. The car in question is a 1999 P38 diesel and the fault first appeared autumn last year. When turning the ignition on, only the SRS light came on and no instruments, warning lights or the message centre worked. After the car had been driven for a couple of miles and the interior was starting to warm up, it all came to life and worked normally. At that time, having a sneaking suspicion in the back of my mind that the connector behind the RH kick panel had something to do with data to the instruments so checked that. Sure enough, a bit green and after giving it a spray of contact cleaner, the dash all came back and worked as it should again. For a few days anyway then it started to do it again and was ignored for a while. Over summer when it was nice and warm and dry it all worked fine but now it has stopped working again.

So, while passing a couple of weeks ago, I called in and chopped the connector out, soldering and heat shrinking all connections. Switched the ignition on and all I got was an SRS light..... Checked the connector at the cluster and gave that a squirt of contact cleaner too. Still the same. Consulted RAVE and found that other than connections to various other systems, all the data connections to the instruments come off one connector at the BeCM, C1280, a white 16 way connector. One of the easier ones to get to as it is under the fuse panel and nothing other than the flap has to be removed. It has a locking tab on the bottom that can be lifted with a screwdriver and the plug pulled out by its wires.

Unplugged that to see if it had any moisture in it and to give it a squirt of contact cleaner only to find that every single warning light on the dash came on. This was with the ignition off and the key not even in the ignition! Plugged it back in and all the lights went out. Turning the ignition on and we were back to SRS light only.

My theory at this point was that a wire or two had chaffed the insulation (or a mouse has been in there nibbling at it) and with some damp one of the wires has been getting a high resistance short to ground. But as it was late at night, dark, below freezing and dinner was being dished up, gave up at that point. As I had a ferry to catch the following morning I concluded that a bit more research and thought had to go into this.

So I acquired an instrument cluster from a 2000 car and did some tests. From the ETM, the instruments have permanent power on pins 4 and 14 with permanent ground on 7 and 17. My idea was to power it up and then ground various other connections one at a time to identify which one was causing all the lights to come on. So I powered it up from my bench supply with nothing other than these 4 pins connected and guess what......

Wondering if this is normal behaviour and is some sort of undocumented bulb check feature, I went outside earlier and tried it on both of my cars. With the plug at the BeCM unplugged, the dash just sits there and looks at me and doesn't light up every warning light.

Now both my cars are 1998 and the ETM is different for a 1999. The fault is on a 1999 and I'm using an instrument cluster from a 2000. As far as I was aware, a later instrument cluster can be fitted to an earlier car and has almost certainly been done by someone because they want the posh green faces even though the parts listing shows loads of different part numbers for the instrument cluster. So can someone with a 99 or later unplug C1280 with the ignition off and tell me if all the warning lights come on or not?

I'm determined to get this fixed as it has become a personal challenge but the owner needs to sell the car and a French registered, diesel, P38 will fetch 4-5,000 Euros in France whereas a French registered, diesel, P38 with an electrical problem is virtually worthless.

Hey all,

A few weeks ago I started the car and it was really shakey, knew something was off. After about 5 minutes started hearing a noise, its hard to describe but can't hear it in Neutral, just in drive and after 2k rpm, when I accelerate gets louder. Its not a constant noise, pops are louder and some are not as loud and definitely gets louder the higher the rpms. If I shift to neutral can't really hear it.

Got home and plugged the nanocom, had a lot of misfires, at idle would just go up and up. Had errors p1300, p305 and p300. Checked the spark plug which I had changed earlier this year and looked fine. Changed the coil wire for that one cyl (cyl 5). Started the car and there were no misfires at all in idle on the nanocom. Still felt a little shakey and looking at the roughness tab on the nanocom cyl 5 still constant 2/3/4/5 while others are at zero and once in a while shows 1 or 2. Nothing on the misfire tab. Took it for a drive around the block, at first no further misfires seemed fine however the noise was still there, only in drive if I switch to neutral I can't hear it. Noise definitely concerns me. I also got the car to misfire again, had a few misfires on 5 again, way less and iddle again no more misfires.

I plan on changing all the spark plugs and wires but any advice on what this noise might be? I need to go take a video of it and wish I could hear it in neutral but only while driving around. Could it be the cats?

Thank you all!

While I was trying to get the air con working on my 1997 model I had the fuse/relay box loose and propped up at an angle to see underneath connections.
I had a wire I was experimenting with, it shouldn’t have been live, but may be it was and it touched the body metal and big spark, all happened so quickly … shouldn’t have been working so late in the day.

Turned ignition key on to find nothing working in instrument area and not all working in the centre console.

Next morning found a major fuse in the engine area fuse/relay box blown …. One of the 60amp ones only remember that as the plastic was dark and difficult to see without a light shining through it. So replaced it and all appeared to be back to normal in the cabin, I went on my way and finally got the air con working.

Sunday I went to go out for a drive, now with working air con. Started up and only now realized the ABS pump was not operating and the hand brake light remained on even when released. A very short drive and the light did not go out as it usually does.

So I am left with ABS, H/brake, TC lights on and no ABS pump operating.
The only check I have done is to prove there is 12v main supply to the pump.

O yes there is one other thing, no matter which section I look at in the Nanocom I get the same notation …..
“unable to start communication with” ( eg engine).

Once again I would appreciate any ideas as to where I can look.

Andrew