Halfway to Caernarfon and the car has started playing up.
Feels like a loss of power, slow to accelerate and there's a vibration.
The vibration seems to lessen when the gearbox kicks down and doesn't seem noticeable when cruising. Light acceleration gives a noticeable vibration.
Revving the engine in neutral gives a slight vibration too - pointing towards engine rather than gearbox or torque converter?
MPG doesn't seem affected, hovering around 18 on the motorway on LPG. There's no weird smells or smoke etc.
Could someone give me a quick crash course on where to look in the Nanocom to help pinpoint the issue if there's no stored codes when I plug it in?
I am in the process of replacing a CV joint and I am struggling to get the thing apart (again). I need alternative suggestions on methods you have used.
I have done near side no problem and I am now on with the off side (after replacing the wheel bearings and top and bottom bushes).
I removed the half shaft and held it up in my hand and whacked CV joint with a heavy hammer. It fell apart no problem.
Fitted a new circlip to the shaft and, using the cable tie method to keep the circlip in place, tapped the new CV joint on. No problem, so far so good.
Replaced axle oil seal and fitted half shaft back. Went back to workshop and realised I had left the spacer off the shaft, bugger.
Now I can't get the new CV joint apart again. I tried whacking it with a brass hammer. I also have a home made puller which consists of a length of 5" diam pipe with an end plate. I clamped the shaft in a vice, put the pipe over the joint with the stub axle through the plate then tighten the nut. I am tightening it with a breaker bar and the shaft is pulling through the vice jaws. It is a considerable force. Any tips or suggestions? I have a spare half shaft and a new CV joint is on order just in case.
I'm looking for a bit of advice regarding our new Vogue SE... When we got it the seller told us that it was making a tappet noise. It is definitely making a tappet like ticking noise...
What's got me confused though is that when the engine is cold started it, it is totally SILENT, there's not the faintest hint of a noise. Once the car has done a mile or two you can hear the tap start to develop into the noise in the video.
It sounds to slow and to high pitched to be bottom end to me... What does everyone else think? According to the last owner it's been doing it for 5 years and hasn't got any worse. It certainly doesn't feel down on power and it doesn't seem to affect the drive in anyway.
A blue 01 on coils with dodgy HG, broken radio and satnav and no mileage listed.
Still, looks quite nice in the photos!
I just put this up because it's about 5 minutes from me if anyone wants me to go have a look.
Does anyone know for sure what sat nav disc the P38 uses? I was just wondering out of curiosity what the newest version available was? Both my Vogue SE's have the original 2002 disc in them. If there was an easy source available for a later version it'd be nice to make an out of date system as up to date as possible.
Does any one know how many UK Holland & Holland’s were actually produced? Yes yes I’ve heard 100 for the UK market of which 20 had TVs. However if you look on ‘how many left’ it indicates that only 53 were actually registered in the UK of which 25 are still on the road and 16 SORN. Also whenever they come up for sale they always seem to have TVs. I’ve managed to track down the numberplates of 21 UK H&Hs and am trying to build up my own register of them. Any help it tracking down details of UK ones would be appreciated, including scrapped ones. Tks H&H
Well, yesterday started as any normal Friday... a day in the office, a decent trip home at the end of the day with the traffic not being to bad followed by a cup of coffee whilst browsing through emails and social media. Whilst trawling through Social Media I saw someone who had an advert out for a 2002 P38 Vogue SE that they were breaking. Upon closer inspection it turned out to be my cars identical twin!
So... I now own 2 Alveston Red Vogue SE's...
First two pictures are of my car:
Pictures below of the latest project:
So... the train is booked for tomorrow to pick it up :)
The bodywork looks good apart from a dent in the bonnet where someone shut the bonnet on top of some tools, the wheels need a refurb and I think it might need the tappets looking at as it develops a tick when it's warm. For the price I've paid for it though, I don't mind a do'er upper as it's a Vogue SE.
Had a bit of bother the other day, black smoke coming out of from under bonnet, turned out to be the klaxon for the alarm, next to the battery box under the fuse box, 2001 4.6 thor, in case they are different.
Turns out there are rechargeable batteries in it , so worth a check.
Hi all, just came across this doing a search and seems a good site.
I have a P38 Holland and Holland and a disco td5,had a few Classics petrol and diesel. Do all the work myself, so hope I can be of some use...
I have a hawkeye with P38 , TD5 defender and td5 disco on it
Live Tyneside way
I have just got a set of Comet alloys and need a bit of advise. My car is a 2002 Vogue SE and I would like to know the colour these should be from the factory. I have read sparkle silver and shadow chrome and am not sure what they should be. I will be getting these refurbished shortly so having this info will be handy to get the right colour.
I am about to install a new set of O2 sensors due to a new fault code popping up during the last ride. At 105K I figure need to replace all.
I figure it is also a good time to remove the MAF and spray clean it with CRC MAF cleaner.
Do you remove the multi-connector by pressing down the arms on either side and pull-- or do you spread them and pull. Plastic at this age breaks too easy without first asking those who know. Tried pressing down like most connectors and no joy.
Once off is there any more disassembly required before spray down. On my Astro van, I can remove a metal mesh pre-screen to get a clear shot at the sensor. This Bosch look like it is all plastic so does not require more disassembly. Of course, I do not have it in my hand yet to confirm this.
Does anyone know what the maximum wattage Bulb I can use for the Safari 5000 driving lamps is?
Also, any recommendation on bulb type? Useage is for country road driving to and from work at nights...
....your family recognize you from your knees down more so than your face due to the time you spend under your vehicle.
I'm getting fed up with it now!
Found a new coolant leak a few days ago.
The gearbox in the Freelander decided it no longer wanted a reverse gear last night.
Now I think I have a power steering fluid leak!
The metal pipes beside the radiator look like this:
And the area around what I guess is the steering box looks like this:
Hopefully it's just a loose union.
Tried fitting a front drive shaft oil seal, FTC4822, this afternoon. I put the seal, described by LRDirect as OE, in the freezer and heated up the housing and met with no success.
Measuring the housing and seal showed a .6mm difference. The old FTC3452 was fine so I wish I hadn't bothered.
Should I just pay the money for LR or are Bearmach any better?
While replacing my tranny filter I checked out all my tie rod ends. All tight but rubber perished. Anyone replaced the boots-- if so do you have the part numbers of the boots you used. Many places offer either poly or rubber if you know the dimensions. Could pop them off and measure- just thought I would ask first-----and find out if they worked.
Anyone know the inner diameter of the rubber hose that attaches to the heater pipes in the bulkhead?
One of mine is cut in half to attach to the LPG system and I have a slow drip/leak from it. It looks a little old and crusty so I'll replace it.
I don't want to pay for the proper part just to cut it in half so I'm looking to get some silicone coolant hose for it.
I don't know the ID of the existing hose and trying to avoid going out in the cold to pull it off, measure it, refit it and bleed the coolant system again - only to have to take it apart and bleed again when the new pipe arrives.
Anyone know the ID?
Ok, so all summer my car sits lovely, doesn’t move overnight, but as soon as the wet or cold weather comes my front right drops overnight, It’s been doing this since I bought it, ive changed the valve block for my spare, sprayed the bag all over, it’s just weird that it only happens with damp or cold weather.
I have a 4 pin relay so not the self levelling.
Any thoughts welcomed
I've decided that the vague steering on my P38 is driving me nuts at the moment so it needs sorting...
First port of call is the radius arm bushes... Looking on the Island 4x4 website, they list:
Britpart - £2.99
OEM - £7.50
Genuine - 15.99
The rear end bushes:
Britpart - £1.00
Genuine - £5.25
(All prices per bush and + VAT)
Will probably do the anti roll bar bushes and drop links whilst under it too.
When you times the difference by 4 it makes quite a big difference... Usually I'd go for Genuine without batting an eyelid at it, however, it's got me wondering if the cheaper ones are actually any good?
Arrived home earlier and noticed the interior lights were on in the rangey.
Everything looked shut, so i got the key and locked it, and the dash booped and said "tailgate open".
Sure enough, the tailgate was shut, but not actually latched. Gave it a slam and locked it again and it happily locked and the lights went out.
Turns out the wife opened it at lunch time and got the pram out the back, mustnt have closed it properly.
But its left me wondering, shouldnt the interior lighting time out after 10minutes or so, so as not to drain the battery if a doors left open?!