Does anyone know if the seat cushion is the same on electric and manual models and also if left and right are interchangeable.
My cushion feels like it has disintegrated and i bottom out if going over some bumps etc :(
Went through a ford which i never have problems with, except today. Water went ovwr the bonnet.
Didnt look that deep lol
AC compressor runs fine producing 37F air
Blower speed is on high and I can’t change speed on head unit from high even by rotating dial and getting low speed 1 bar symbol on display
Stopped vehicle and pulled out fan and compressor relays
Found fan relay was black and slightly melted
I put a new relay in and it got hot as a pistol fairly quickly then removed it
Any ideas where I should start troubleshooting?
Oh dear. The camshaft is shot, the rockers are pitted, the tappets are dished and I haven't even looked at the bottom end yet.
Does anyone have a favourite supplier of oem standard parts for a rebuild?
As a supplementary what were the original colours for the block, head, rocker covers and sump?
Thanks in anticipation.
I hardly dare post this as I don't want to offend the gods who control my P38 but it seems that after two years of boring everyone with my running problem I may have the answer. I have found here in Spain a fabulous 'mobile mechanic' called Mark who is ex Army REME and knows Landrovers/Range Rovers inside out. Stuck on a sloping dirt track and unable to leave it at the garage guy in town Mark came out with all the kit to work in the field. Changed the gearbox oil and internal filter, engine oil and filter - replaced the thermostat and then cast an expert ear on the running. Misfire on the left side he said and most likely a spark plug. I had explained that for no apparent reason after starting and running cold ok it would lose power as soon as the engine gained any heat and run slow up hill, not changing down unless I pushed the Sport button and even then still trying to change up after a few seconds. He would have started on the spark plugs but knowing I could do that I pushed him on to the nasty jobs that I didn't like. So had the spark plugs out left hand side- all looked good - LPG seems to burn clean-and just for trial replaced the old plugs that were still around - went for test drive and on the hill coming back engine failed to a tickover. When finally back replaced the original plugs and noticed that the rubber part of the lead on the one at the back of the engine seemed to be very tight against that metal exhaust manifold that I'm told is a heat shield. Got out the hammer and bashed the shield down out of the way of the plug lead - went for test drive and lo and behold - actually drove like it should - accelerated and changed down as normal - almost perfect - after two years of limping around .... Anyway, Mark says because I use low ratio on the hill here (not really necessary) it causes wind up and wind up inhibits the automatic gear change. I used low range to get home up the hill sometimes because of the lack of power ! I also asked if the ECU had adjusted to my fault/problem and therefore was going to continue feeding wrong settings to fuel etc. He said disconnect the battery for 30 mins and this should reset the system. I know you will think I'm a plonker for not recognising a misfire but when it happened I just didn't know what was causing it and changed MAF, TPS etc etc. So I was bemoaning the fact of being in Spain and not being able to get hands on help from you forum people but now maybe I can stay here ! Oh, got a puncture coming back from the test drive ............so life is not perfect.....
The wheel nuts on my P38 have a sort of shiny metal shell on them and after trips to the tyre repair/change place I find this outer casing distorted and my supplied wheel wrench doesn't fit !! I think the tyre people are using the wrong size socket with extreme force which buggers up the hexagonal shape of the nut. Anyone else had this ? Also, I notice that the wheel nuts on my Classic look the same nut - can they be interchanged ?
What's this then ? ;-)
I was asked the same question on a different forum... I nearly submitted a guess which would have been correct but didn't guess and failed lol. If the pic had been higher res I may have submitted my best guess.. Reckon some of you lot will do better than me!
Probably wait til we've had 3 guesses before naming the naked vehicle.
I'm getting a noise that sounds like it's somewhere up front.
It seems to be related to roadspeed/wheel speed rather than engine RPM. It seems to be most noticeable at around 18mph on the speedo when accelerating slowly and it does it in a straight line as well as when turning.
If I'm between 20 and 30mph and let off the accelerator I get the noise as I'm slowing down but the noise is faster. When this happens it's more "wuhwuhwuhwuh" than "wuh-wuh-wuh-wuh".
Hoping someone recognises my attempt at replicating the noise :P
So after a year or so of having half of my crap stainless exhaust system on my P38, I finally want to sort it - and that means going back to a 'standard' rear section, with a straight through pipe in the middle. The latter is already sorted. What I need is the rear section...
It seems a lot of aftermarket stuff is hit and miss, and what I want to avoid is something that doesn't fit or sit level again... with that in mind, has anyone tried one of these?
A question for those in the know, I’ve had someone ask if nano can sync ecu, the rangie has been converted from auto to manual, manual ecu installed.
Don’t slate me if it needs other things, it’s something I’ve been asked about and admit to not knowing.
I'm new to the forum, so hello first before I ask you for some advice.. Hello!
I'm the owner of a '96 P38, 88k miles. Had it about a month with some issues and barely any service history... However, Ive been working through the gremlins, given it a full service of oils, filters, plugs etc so its having some TLC.. However,....
Having done all the usual electrical checks and made some recommended upgrades (additional positive cable from alternator to battery, new alternator, new battery, cleaned battery earths and added a new one etc etc) I find I am having two issues, maybe related..
I have a very intermittent Alternator Fault pop up now and again (seen it three times in a month, only for a moment) and also the usual SRS Light which was on when i bought it but is increasingly now more off (good?!) than on - although it comes back...
To my question - I have a good 14.7 v from alternator to battery with barely no voltage drop, but I have only 13.8v at the alternator to BECM wire (small brown and yellow one).
Is this OK? Im wondering if 13.8v is recognised by the BECM as 'not enough' and causing both my intermittent Alternator Fault and the SRS fault (which oddly seems to be fixing itself since i added the extra charge cable.....
Can I just add another wire from the alternator direct to the BECM if it is fried and unreliable?
Thanks for any help in advance..
I managed to flatten the battery... I opened up the drivers door using the key, opened the bonnet. Opened the driver's side passenger door while looking for jump leads and then hooked up a spare battery.
The alarm went off.
The dash showed keycode lockout and all the window/sunroof not set warnings.
I tried the nanocom and it locked up with "unable to communicate to ECU" showing above the EKA entry screen).
Restarted the nanocom same deal
Restarted the Nanocom, put the key in posn0 tried looking at other parts of the BECM menu then went to EKA unlock,
Entered the code, heard some relays clicking but no doorlocks.
Dash still shows "keycode lockout" and "Engine disabled". The key flashes red when I push the buttons, but no joy.
Went to work in the Jeep!
Have I got a very sick BECM or is there something else I should try?
Still chasing the occasional, and sometimes not so occasional, water leak where the hose from the water pump enters the thermostat housing. Only seems to happen during cool down after the car has been parked up for a while. So presumably a pressure build up on the engine side when the stat is closed.
So far its had new hoses, albeit a while back, changed clip from the spring thing to an up-market Mikalor stainless steel band and bolt affair and finally fitted a new OEM thermostat last week just in case it was a minor crack in the plastic housing.
Still drips a teeny bit.
When changing the thermostat housing I did think that the hose was little slacker on the stub than I'd ideally have liked but still within the range of what a clip ought to have tightened up. Seems to me that modern hoses are slacker on the stubs than what they used to be. The hoses I used came as a full set from a reputable supplier so should be OK. Don't recall blue bag packing but may well have been Britpart. I notice that the visible end of the top hose where it goes onto the radiator shows little coolant spots about where the reinforcing cords might be. Something I've not seen before.
Seriously thinking in terms of paying the Green Oval tax and getting a factory hose. At £35 a pop it ought to fit properly but thats a lot of money for a hose. Any suggestions for a cheaper fix. Leak sealer in the coolant or rtv round the stub would probably work but both are bodges.
My P38 Mud flaps have finally bitten the dust - I think the one broken off tonight beside the car looks as if some four legged attacker might have been at it and I don't mean the rats ! Anyway, although they are a bit of a stupid thing to have on a cross country vehicle they do look good on the P38 so am I going to be able get new ones at a reasonable price or is it a trip round the breakers ?
Digging deeper into the CVC reveals a genuine replacement stripped engine STC1965E Serial number AAA S15742 L9
The crankshaft pulley is marked as ERR5085 but has no oil thrower. Parts book seems a bit vague as ERR5085 is replaced by ERR7379 with ERR7374, the thrower.
Does the thrower actually do anything as once the seal has failed I would imagine throwing oil around is not helpful?
Does anyone know the history of the replacement engine serial numbers?
Thanks as always.
I appear to have left my LPG filler cap sitting on the rear bumper on Friday when i've filled it up and driven off.
I ordered packet of two off ebay for a fiver and they turned up today, but they're shite. The spring inside is far too strong requireing heman effort to install the cap, and then once latched it sits all cockeyed over to one side.
Anyone recommend where i can get a cap that actually fits and works properly?
I’m selling my P38 WESTMINSTER.
I wanted to offer it here on this forum before posting it on eBay over the weekend.
Vehicles paint is original and, as it has been kept in a garage it’s entire life, is in 8/10 condition. The interior is a 9/10 with no sagging headliner, no tears or scratches on the seats and the carpet in excellent shape. The entire AC system has been rebuilt.
The vehicle had been maintained by a Landrover dealership and later by a good quality independent garage. I have a huge file of receipts.
Reason for sale is that I want to repaint my Holland & Holland and focus on that vehicle. The WESTMINSTER deserves a good home.
It’s located in Laurel, Maryland.
I can send photos and details to those who are genuinely interested.
Email me at email@example.com
Being one of the 'lucky' over 50's owners, I was pleasantly surprised last year with a quote from the AA for a 6000 mile, zero no claims (second car) of £227.
This year they have jacked it up to £261 (now with 1 yr NCB). Just moved to Admiral for £182. At least the difference will pay for 3/4 of a tank of fuel (lol!)
On 'lower' value insurance premiums it is easy to ignore the £50 hike as not worth the hassle but when you hunt around, that £50 can become £80 and is suddenly more noticeable.
I will never understand how it is cheaper for companies to find new business than to keep existing clients????
I stumbled across this forum while doing a general search for information on the Vogue SE as I have just acquired one.
It has some battle scars and needs a good clean inside, I have only had time to wash and polish the outside.
The wheels have been 'refurbished' recently but are the wrong colour.
As a serial P38 collector I will no doubt have lots of tinkering to do with this latest toy!
When braking from anything over 40mph I am getting shimying through the steering wheel. This has only just started happening.
I willget underneath and check all thefront bushes tomorrow afternoon but just thought I'd mention it on here in case it was a known symptom of a particular failure. If it where a BMW E34 then it would be the upper track control arms.
It has also highlighted some play in the steering which I need to locate (steering column splines or steering box).
Thanks in advance,