Hi, I am thinking about buying a Direnza rad for my 2001 DHSE P38. However, looking at the Direnza website, and a couple of E-bay adverts the only radiator that appears to be available is one for a manual 94-99 diesel. On the E-bay website I notice that someone asked if it will suit a 2001 auto but the answer can't be found as the page is no longer available.
I wonder whether anyone can confirm that the radiator advertised, for a manual 2.5 TD 94-99 P38, would fit a 2001 auto 2,5 TD P38 ?
As my old donkey is used for road use only do I really need an aluminium radiator ? I still have the standard unit in the car [I don't know if it has ever been changed] so maybe I would be better just buying a new, standard radiator as it is probably likely to outlast me, and the car.
So the switch appears to be on Permanently.
I change the switch for another used button… same thing. Light on the button regardless.
Nano says no faults with EAS. It also confirms the locking button is activated.
I can’t seem to find anything on the Nano to change to deactivate.
Any idea troops?
It’s been a while since I last used my rangie, I’ve just put a new O2 sensor as I recall one wasn’t working, I’ll be buggered if I can find the settings on nano to check, could someone run me through it,, tia
My P38 is a 2001 County model, so a sort of medium spec. It doesn't have heated or electric seats, however it doesn't have a manual adjuster on the side of the seat like I've seen on other non-electric seats. There is this hole, which appears it should have a button pushed into it. I tried inserting a screwdriver today and twisting it, I can hear and feel it triggering a little microswitch in each direction, but nothing happens. Underneath the seat it's connected into some sort of wiring loom. Ignition was on when I tried it. I've looked online but can't find any reference to this type of seat with just one button. What should it do? And should there be a button in it?
On a different forum someone posted this link to a 'save LPG' petition https://chng.it/JByWb6c6zw
I'm not sure who they're going to send it to etc but I've signed it and I thought others running on LPG might want to sign it too.
I've also posted about this on LPGforum
I am thinking of doing one of LR’s Trek days.
Apparently I need Off-Road insurance to join in the fun.
Have anyone got any insight/experience/recommendation?
Further to Dave’s comment in this thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/3016-ac-leak-test-at-home?page=2#pid38452, I’ve had a bit of time on my hands today. The car is ready and loaded up so I’ve spent the time waiting for Dina to finish work so we can set off before driving to Spain to write this.
I would like to think that at least some of you understand how the AC system in your car works, but in case you don’t, a little explanation. Everything has 3 states, solid, liquid and gas, the only thing that differs is the temperature that they change from one to another. Water, as we all should know, has a boiling point of 100C, the temperature where it changes state from liquid to gas (and 0C when it changes state again from liquid to solid, aka ice). However, if it is under pressure, the boiling point increases. That is why your cooling system has a pressure cap and the increase in pressure means it doesn’t boil (change from liquid to gas) until around 120C. That is why, as long as you don’t have a leak anywhere, your cooling system can run at 105-110C without boiling. In the same way, if you run on LPG you fill your tank with a liquid (Propane in this case) at around 10bar (145psi) so it remains a liquid but, as Propane has a boiling point of -44C, as soon as it is no longer under pressure, it becomes a gas.
So, what does this have to do with AC? Because it uses this to move heat from one place to another. It is filled with R134a gas, Tetrafluoroethane (CF3CH2F) with a boiling point at atmospheric pressure of -26.1C. Your system also has what are termed a low side and a high side signified by the pressure in the system. Starting at the low side, the system is full of a gas at a pressure of around 2.6 bar when operating. That gas passes through a compressor which raises the pressure to around 10.3 bar (at the High side) at which point it is fed to the condenser (the one in front of the radiator, the one that leaks with monotonous regularity) where, it condenses and becomes a liquid. That generates heat which is dissipated by the airflow though the condenser. This liquid then passes through a small orifice where it vaporises as the pressure drops on the other side of the orifice and goes through the evaporator (see how the names of the various components start to make more sense now?). At this point it gets very cold (although strictly speaking, in thermodynamics there is no such thing as cold, only a lack of heat, so the correct terminology is that it ‘draws heat’, something it took me ages to get my head around when I did the FGas course) in the evaporator, air is blown through it and that is the nice cool breeze you should get out of your vents. At that point the cycle starts again as the gas gets to the compressor to be compressed and turned back into a liquid. This is just the same as a Calor gas bottle getting condensation or even ice forming on the outside if you have your barbecue/patio heater/ blowtorch running flat out for a while. The liquid in the bottle is vaporising so is getting cold (sorry, drawing heat).
OK, so that is an automotive AC system and a domestic AC system works in exactly the same way. You have the compressor and condenser in a box outside your house (along with a load of control electronics). That is linked by two copper pipes (liquid and gas) to the indoor unit. These come in a variety of forms but the most common ones are the wall unit, the rectangular box on the wall up near ceiling height, or the ceiling cassette, the square units set into the ceiling that (usually) have 4 outlets blowing the cold air out in different directions. There’s multiple different designs but they all work in the same way. The big difference between a domestic system and that in your car is that they are reversible. The flow of the refrigerant can be reversed so the condenser becomes the evaporator and vice versa. That way, when the flow is reversed, the indoor unit gets hot and the outdoor unit gets cold. That way they can provide heating as well as cooling. Different units differ in how they achieve this, with some of the cheap Chinese made systems you have to manually set them for heating or cooling. The better systems, like the Fujitsu units I prefer and install, have an Auto setting. You put it on Auto, set the temperature and it reverses the flow as and when it is required. That way you can set 21C and no matter if the ambient is -5C or 30C (or higher as it has been recently in some areas), it will automatically maintain an indoor temperature of 21C.
On a decent quality system working correctly, with an ambient temperature of 25C when set for maximum cooling, the air coming out of the indoor unit will be down to 2-3C. When set for maximum heating, it will achieve 55-60C. If the ambient is cooler, this will be a bit lower but the Fujitsu systems will still provide 50C down to an outdoor temperature of -15C. This is spread around the room by a fan so is much the same as using an electric fan heater. The big difference is that it can achieve the equivalent of 3kW of heating (or cooling) while only drawing sufficient electrical energy to power the compressor, which will normally be around 600W, making it a cheap way of heating a room. Multiply that by the number of rooms in your house and it adds up to a considerable saving. The outdoor units can supply a single indoor unit or up to 8 but the install does get pretty complex…….
That brings us on to air source heat pumps (or ground source heat pumps for that matter, they work exactly the same). They are configured just the same as an AC system when using it for indoor heat as they aren’t reversible. The difference being that instead of giving a source of heat which then has air blown over it to distribute the heat throughout the room, a heat exchanger is used so that heat is used to heat water which is then sent around the existing pipework to your radiators.
This is where the problems start. First of all you have in inherent loss in the heat exchanger dropping the water temperature down to around 50C, many of the more modern houses have 10mm microbore pipework, perfectly adequate when the water is being pumped around from a gas boiler at around 70 degrees but too restrictive for water at a lower volume and 20 degrees cooler. Then a radiator will have been specified for the size of the room. Radiators tend to be specified in Btu’s (British Thermal Units), as are many AC units. You take the volume of the room in cubic feet, multiply by 5 and that gives the size of the unit or radiator you need in Btu. So an average living room or bedroom of 5m x 4m with conventional ceiling height is 16.4 ft x 13ft x 8ft, giving a volume of 1,705 cubic feet. Multiply by 5 gives 8,528 so I would install a 9,000 Btu AC unit. Radiators are also rated in Btu but that figure assumes they are fed with water at 70C and at the sort of flow rate achieved by a central heating pump. As the water from a heat pump is cooler and the flow is lower, in virtually all cases larger radiators (and often pipework) need to be installed. This is why people are having to spend in excess of £20k for an installation only to complain that the house isn’t as warm as it was with a conventional gas boiler. Radiators aren’t that efficient anyway, as all you have is a hot spot in one place in the room and the heat is spread mostly by convection with a little by radiation. That’s why it is recommended that the insulation properties are improved, to keep what feeble amount of heat you have from escaping.
Is it cheaper to run though? No not really. Let’s take the average 2 storey, 3 bedroom house. You’d be looking at a footprint of roughly 30ft square, so that is 900 square feet per floor so 1,800 square feet floor area. With 8ft ceiling height, that means you need around 72,000 Btu in total heating capacity or 28kW equivalent. OK, so AC units and air source heat pumps are pretty efficient so won’t be drawing that amount of power, but they will still draw in the region of 6kW as there’s one serious compressor in there (anything over a conventional house system will need a 3 phase supply). At today’s average electricity costs of around 30p per kWh, that’s £1.80 for every hour it is on. Not that cheap compared to a gas boiler, even at today’s prices, without taking into account the purchase price and the modifications needed to what you already have.
The only time a heat pump system will work adequately is if you have underfloor heating (and walking on a floor at 50C is a little more comfortable than one at 70C!). Although even then I have installed an AC unit into a house with underfloor heating fed by a heat pump as it would kick in as soon as the temperature dropped but if, after a couple of days the sun came out, it would switch off again. The owner of the house wanted AC to fill in the gap between the weather getting cold and the underfloor heating starting to work properly and also to give him the benefit of cooling in summer.
The irony of the whole thing is that you can get a Government grant of up to £5k to install a heat pump and they have a lower VAT rating too reducing the cost to buy and install. Although as they are so damn expensive in the first place there’s still a considerable outlay, particularly when you consider you can replace an existing gas boiler with a more efficient, modern one, for a couple of grand. But, even though it works in the same way and is probably better in many cases, you can’t get a grant for AC (and the systems are still rated at 20% VAT) as it gives you cooling as well as heating, so you are getting a bonus which the Government won’t pay for.
Personally I think Hydrogen fuelled boilers are the way to go but technology moves a lot faster than Governments so when they first made their recommendations that we should all be going for heat pumps, Hydrogen fuelled boilers weren’t around. Much like how they advocate we should a be driving battery electric cars when hydrogen fuel cell powered ones , or even a near conventional internal combustion engine running on Hydrogen, seem a much more viable, and ecologically friendly, option.
Brother and I are now reaching the end of our tether with the old girl. Sorted the transfer box, and XYZ switch. With the recent hot weather decided to sort out the air con that needed re-gassing. Found a major leak on the top corner of the condenser - how it got punctured there I do not know but such is life. Replaced that and now re-booked in for regassing.
NOW the old girl has decide to play up on coolant.. After a six mile run found water rushing out of the expansion tank overflow. The coolant temperature gauge shows normal temp, The coolant is clean in the tank - no sign of oil or any other muck. The old girl was leaking some coolant with no obvious leaks but O-rings in the cap were looking dodgy so replaced them with new ones and the cap is looking past its best. So the first plan is to put the old ones back in and see if that improves it.
Don't think its the head gasket as there no sign of over-heating or contaminants in the water. Mayne the tank top needs replacing?? Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers Mike
This is a bit weird... my driver's seat started to tip backwards as if the front of the rails were no longer secured. On investigation it seem the mechanism that raises the front/back of the seat squab had let go at the front. I've pushed it back together and restored some function by winding the front down with the motor but it's still not working as before.
There's also a large piece that seems to flap up and down depending on the direction of travel. Sorry for the terrible explanation but has anyone come across this before?
Hi, I am searching for the part number and/or technical name for the finisher, which closes the gap at the headlining around the sunroof. Fitted a new headliner and as always , the old one doesn't look nice. I guess they are not available new any more, but it does look like a usual automotive part and there should be substitutes around ... anyone a tip?
I have searched the parts catalogues, but can't find the item :-(
Found the “damned leak” in HEVAC. Fortunately using the Nitrogen pressure test i sourced it with bubbles at the drier! Top nut wasn’t snugged down enough, actually was finger tight. All tight as a drum now and holds the 100PSI I put in for an hour at least.
I note that the system requires 49oz of R134a plus oil. Having never refilled a system from empty I need help with this.
Whats the technique for filling the system? Do I buy 4 x 12 oz R134a with the oil added or do I get the R134a and add the oil separately.
Any other tips, tricks, warnings or ‘lessons learned” before I pull the “trigger”?
My near side front window has stopped working. It’s not the switch pack, as I’ve changed it for a known good one and have the same result.
Interestingly when I press the button to the down position it brings up the “window not set” message (last job I did before the failure involved removing the battery)
What other points in the circuit would you advise I check? I’m trying to concoct a structure to chase the fault but not sure where to start.
I've had an issue previously after some welding work was done (this is actually on a Disco 2 but its the same part used on the p38) where the inertia switch was tripped, this gave a few symptoms as follows
Failure to start (Cranks but not firing)
Hazard lights flashing when trying to start
Diagnostics fail to connect
Above was obviously sorted by resetting the swtich. However that was several months ago, Today I've driven the car around 35 miles and around a mile from the end of the journey pulled up at traffic lights. On pulling away car suddenly isn't running right (its been fine prior to that) Limped it the last mile or so and left it for a bit at that point.
Tried to start it a couple of hours later - LPG system is in protest mode (beeping) and engine clearly isn't running right. So out comes the Nano - which will not connect to the engine ecu no matter what I try (its been fine previously). So fire up the diagnostics for the LPG and find thats its complaining of several errors, some of which are probabbly from the original inertia switch incident, but 4 current ones are "petrol injector no signal on channels 2/4/5/6" which would explain the symptoms. live readings also show 0 for those 4 channels (2 and 4 would be the drivers side bank, 5/6 the front two on the passenger side bank)
My first thought was damaged wiring, but I think this unlikely as theres no obvious evidence of any damage, and for all 4 to fail like that seems unlikely. It also wouldn't explain the lack of diagnostic connection though the Nano either. I don't have anything unusual happening with the hazard lights on this occasion either.
I've checked Rave, but it has very little to say about the switch or how to test it. There seems to be 3 wires to it, does anyone know how the connections should be if checked on a multimeter or how it actually works? Or is it possible to bridge out connections to remove it as a possibility? If it was 2 or even 4 connections it would make more sense to me, but 3 doesn't give me much of a clue what it should be doing without another to compare it to?
Or does anyone have an idea of something common to both systems that could be causing the problem? Its a 2000 Thor 4.0 if it makes any difference. Obviously a lot of the bits differ between the p38 and the D2 but I'd imagine the basic engine electrics are fairly similar?
I had me AC regassed by kwikfit 4 weeks ago, working great until I really needed it in the recent heatwave when it's died completely. How can I check if its lost its gas ,at home, or its another issue like something electrical? I have a home compressor. My initial thoughts were to power the ac compressor (2001 dhse) direct ,briefly, with the engine running to see if it then cools but chickened out in case I damaged something. I 'think' I can check for pressure by momentarily depressing one of the valves on the bulkhead? If no pressure or very little could I then pressurise the system with my compressor then spray joints with soapy water to test? But what pressure is safe? Very new to 38's and never had ac before so green with that too, do have a nanocom though!
Thanks a bunch for any advice!
So I have 50 high density concrete blocks left over from raising my garage floor so it is flush with the car and bike lift platforms which the local builders merchant will refund the cost of if I take them back. 50 at 19 kg each is 950 kg / 2094 lb, just shy of a ton.
Handbook says max rear axle weight is 1840 kg / 4056 lb. The EEC defined kerb weight with full fuel tank and 75 kg / 12 stone (near enough) driver is 2100 kg / 4629 lb gross with 1000 kg / 2204 lb on the rear axle.
By my maths that implies I can load 840 kg / 1852 lb in the back. Probably a bit more as the tank is down to 1/4 full and I'm 10 stone dripping wet at most.
Looks like 46 in the back and 4 in the passenger footwell will do it.
Only 2 miles down a twisty hill but its still seems a scary load for a passenger car. The £75 refund on my flexible friend will be nice but I'm not inclined to risk popping the airbags. Cleaning out all the dust afterwards is quite bad enough a prospect thank you (quietly ignoring the slog of manually loading and unloading).
Having sorted the clunking noise on the transfer box, Now been having trouble with XYX switch on the auto-box.,. We think we may have disturbed the cable while investigating the clunking noise. As usual we have tweaked the cable connection on the XYZ switch lever a few times and now it works fine - the display on the dash matches the display on the selection lever display in all positions in low and in high mode. Just been out on a short shopping run, pulled into the drive which slopes downwards steeply. Driving in low ratio everything was fine both displays showing park. I took foot off the brake and the old girl rolled forward with a slight ticking noise that we've not had before. Any ideas why the car can move when in Park and the source of the ticking noise??? Cheers Mike
Hi, I am on the hunt for a couple of hard to get items - two or three power steering pipe clips that are located on the two lugs that are sitting under the radiator. Unfortunately, mine have broken, and they are no longer available.
They would probably need to come of a P38 which is being taken apart, and with this in mind I have contacted a couple of breakers but so far no-one has replied to me at all. I am sure that there has to be some, somewhere but the big breakers don't seem to be interested.
I wonder whether anyone on the forum here might have a couple that I could buy ?
Long story short…. Rebuilt one of the P38s from ground up. Replaced many, many parts and she works as good as new…. Except…
This was a tyre up restoration. Everything was removed. When it got the the AC system I put as new compressor, condensor, drier, expansion valve and evaporator in. Made sure all was secure. Went about the rest of the work.
Today, I decided to tackle the AC and vacuum test it. Low side will not vacuum to less than -1 and wont even hold that. High side will vacuum down a bit. I’ve obviously got a large leak on low pressure side.
Knowing where the evaporator and the expansion valve is located I’m dreading the replies I am sure to get here BUT…
If I am unable to get any vacuum at all on the vacuum test will my only solution to finding the leak be my removing and rebuilding the entire system again?
OR would it be worth my while to jury rig the pressure switch, forcing the compressor to accept R134 with dye added, so that I can try and source the leak with a black light instead of ripping the whole thing apart? My understanding of the system is that the compressor will not engage unless the system indicates pressure so byp[assing the pressure switch will allow the compressor to run and thereby pulling the R134 plus dry into the lines etc….
Ideally I should have pressure tested the system before assembling the interior around it….
I've started stripping the scrapyard V8 with a view to keeping stuff that might be handy and binning anything that isn't.
I've discovered both exhaust manifolds have a small Flexi joint under the heatshield, and on both manifolds they are distorted and split.
Is this a common problem? My car has what sounds like a manifold leak, and my plan had been to clean up the faces on these ones and swap them in when I do the heads...
Is it worth trying to repair them? Anyone just sleeved with solid pipe instead?