I need a rear diff for my 2000 P38.
Anyone have a relatively low mileage one they would be willing to sell.
Just a quick post..
I LPG converted an early L322 with BMW 4.4 for a guy from the other side of Barnsley from me (over 10 miles away) around 8 years ago, the same owner phoned me a couple of days ago to say it had started losing a lot of water and could I have a look at it please, asked me to give him a call when I had a bit of time. So today I phoned him and he drove over 10 miles to see me, in the last couple of days he's also been using it on the motorway..
As soon as he pulled up I saw loads of steam coming from under the bonnet. Pulled the bonnet and saw the steam was coming from the back of the engine. Removed the engine cover and removed the middle/heater air filter panel on the bulkhead for visibility and access (he's an ex mechanic who now works for a firm that supplies HGV bits but he'd never had the engine cover off and didn't know the middle panel could be removed).
I found a coolant T (for the LPG reducer) had snapped, there was hardly any coolant left in the engine at all. After leaving the engine to cool for some time and after I'd fitted a new T and put the middle panel and engine cover back on I put some antifreeze and water in it and it ran absolutely fine.
He said he has been topping the water up at home and at work but I'm very surprised the engine was still running and wasn't cooked, especially as he'd been on the motorway with it etc, it must have quickly pumped all it's coolant out due to the severity of the leak.
Well chuffed and only one advisory for an oil leak..
Only 5k since the last MOT which is around what Richard does every month lol
Here is a question for those in the know - process on Rave but not final torque value.
P38 2.5 diesel
Cylinder head bolts.
Stage I tighten to 80 NM ( as per laid down sequence.
Stage 2 Loosen 180 degrees.
Stsge 3 Tighten to 50 NM
STAGE 4 TIGHTEN 90 DEGREES.
STAGE 5 Tighten a further 90 degrees.
STAGE 6 Run engine for 20 minutes till operating temp is reached.
STAGE 7 Let engine cool down.
STAGE 8 Tighten a further 90 degrees.
Now for the question. What is the final torque value on completion of stage 8 ???
We're having a few issues because of a weirdly high volume of bot traffic, and it's crashed the bit that copes with signups.
My parts engine is almost torn down with only the connecting rods and crank still to be removed. Before I remove them I wanted to check w/ you all first on a few points.
After the engine is torn down it will be tanked and the oil and coolant passages cleaned out. The machinist will also check the cylinder liner bore and ball hone the cylinders if appropriate. All in all the block looks to be in excellent condition, the crosshatching in the cylinders is still very clear, the tappets showed literally no wear and the cam lobes only some.
1/ The pistons can just be tapped out the top of the engine block? How does one remove the carbon ridge? Running a finger nail across the top of the bore I don't really feel any ridge.
2/ The piston connecting rods use 12 point bolts where they connect to the crank. A 9mm is too small while a 10mm was a bit loose. Are these imperial? Tomorrow I'll scout for a 3/8" 12 point socket. Is there an order they need to be removed in? No order is mentioned in the manual.
3/ Regarding removing the crank, the six hub aligner screws are really on there. Removing them is made more difficult by the crank not being locked. On page 36 of the engine rebuild manual, where it covers removing the crank, step 4 says to "Remove 6 socket head cap screws securing hub aligner to crankshaft, remove hub aligner." I was thinking it wise to have the machinist check the crank for wear and balance but should I bother removing this hub aligner? It isn't necessary to remove the crank from the block. One could stick a piece of wood in the crank galley to lock the crank against assuming that won't somehow damage the crank. That's doubtful as the crank looks extremely robust.
The image of the crank was from earlier in theday, it was flat on the ground when I was wrenching on it. :-)
4/ The rebuild manual doesn't mention a specific order that the main bearing bolts need to be released by. Ditto for the big end bolts I mentioned previously.
It's my first tear down and so I've never seen any of this first hand before. Here's a few more images I took while documenting the process. Thank you all for your assistance!
My head gasket kit arrived today. Unfortunately the valley gasket is bent in a few places. The bent edges aren’t creased just bent. Would it still be usable? I ask mainly because I had planned to start Tuesday and I don’t know that I can get a new one before then.
hi could somebody please tell me what rim's I have on my 2.5td please somebody told me that they were discovery ones I'm looking for one as a spare
Well,it is DSP, but that part works, when it works....
I had both radios in both 02's go out within 3 days of one another.
On Bolt, the unit would play for about 2 minutes in the morning, then started showing "Telephone" and going silent.
There is no phone and no cabling for one....Sometimes, once it cooled down, it might give me 2 more minutes of music, before
doing the same thing.
On the Borrego, it started showing me all of it's pixels on the display, A couple of days later the display went blank, then shortly thereafter it went silent.....
I tried swapping the heads from one to the other and also swapped in known working DSP amps.
The issues switched with the heads, so it was the heads.....
So, driving Bolt with the dead stereo, it would occasionally start "Popping" from the speakers.
I could effect this by hitting the brakes, or turning on the headlights. Points to an ground issue (Imagine that?!)
I did get in a known good head, and this worked well in Bolt, until I hit the brakes, then it shut off......
So, I believe the common earth point here is C0708-0 per Rave.......I cannot however find the section that tells me where this is?
I suspect it is the earth point under the radio? Little help Gilbert?
On another note, on the Borrego, it crackles when I turn on the ignition whether or not the head is plugged in or not!
It is not the DSP as I have swapped in both my good spares as well as the one from Bolt. Same result.
Kick panel plugs are clean and shiny......Where is the "Other plug" on the way to the DSP?
I know on the "other side" this crackling has been diagnosed as failing DSP. I do not believe this is so.
But with the DSP amp, who knows! I could be wrong;)
Hope to get some tunes going again soon!
hi folks what your vies on the new e10 petrol coming out it ment to be ok in RRs after 96 manufacturer date whats your views
I'm not in this category as I've got dirty diesel
the Rover just got back from a 600 mile round trip and drove great.
prior to the trip i had noticed that the EAS would randomly let all the air out of the tank. it would reach about 80 psi and then exhaust all the air.
didn't worry about it too much as it was incredibly cold at the time and i couldn't work on it anyway. also, kinda hoped it was just being finicky due to the sub zero temps.
today taking the dog to the vet and went into EAS Fault but did not go to bumpstops. in fact, the front end raised and the rear dropped.
drove home no problem but while idling and sitting in the drive it dropped all the way down.
see the codes pulled below,
FR signal incorrect
RL signal incorrect
RR signal incorrect
Vehicle speed fault
Air supply leak
Target Heights incorrect
Vehicle has moved
FL valve stuck open
Exhaust valve stuck open
FL valve stuck closed
FR valve stuck closed
RL valve stuck closed
RR valve stuck closed
Exhaust valve stuck closed
i rebuilt the valve block about six or so months ago with all new o-rings.
does this sound like a bad pressure switch, pressure valve or exhaust solenoid?
i have a spare valve block that i have not rebuilt yet but can pull parts off that as needed.
Hi all, here is my way for hosting images for free using my existing Google Drive.
To utilize this method you must first have a GMail account.
You start by uploading an image to Google Drive . If you have a GMail account you get this for free.
Once the file is uploaded left double click on the file listing, which in turn will open the image, then click on the three dots, and then "Share".
Click on "Copy Link"
You'll see you have a link that looks like this:
Change it so you have this instead:
In your forum post click on Image and paste that URL in. There you go.
Branching out from my other thread regarding shock absorbers..
My experience with them have been a bit like goldilocks and the several sets of shock absorbers..
original BOGE units were knackered.
So I fitted Bilsteins thinking they'll be better, and unfortunately the ride was so hard I sent them back and put my originals back on!
The next week she found herself with a set of BOGE dampers I managed to get from Island4x4 and Ebay the ride seemed perfect, far better than ever, for around a month before one started to mist oil!!
As a final ditch effort a set of Terribly ferm shockers were fitted, which have made the ride near unbearable
So i'm back at square one..
As said in my other thread shipart shockers are the only ones left to try and i'm sorely tempted..
Oh and not the "dynamics" or any of that shit, the standard black ones, I just want a soft ride..
Don't care about how sporty it is to drive which is all the manufacturers seem to care about, etc etc
My question is how well should the P38 ride?
Is it supposed to be "magic carpet" I'm guessing with 18" wheels my ride will be slightly harsher than with 16"s
Mine at the moment seems to find every single bump in the road, which ain't ideal...
Having moved on from the air bag issue the EAS ECU is not communicating with the Nano. When the car arrived it had been part reconverted from springs. The ECU was loose under the seat, the delay timer was detached and the Blue/Pink and Blue/White wires had been cut.
The ECU is refixed and contacts given a clean and Delay timer reconnected and the wires soldered up. I've checked fuse 24 and 44 and they are fine so would be grateful for any pointers on where to head next. I have tested with all doors closed.
Gonna be replacing my TF shocks with some new'uns..
BOGE are NLA and I have very little cash to spare so i'm going to punt on some Britpart shockers from rimmers..
I can get a set for £75..
Should be a good bit softer than the set I have now..
My switch pack decided to pack up... all switches dead.. It went from working to not working after being left standing for a week during lock-down. I think there was one trip where it was intermittent, but it went very quickly. It wasn't particularly damp/ humid, but it was cold, for sure.
I checked Fuse 1, which was fine - it controls a bunch of other stuff as well, like the instruments, so was unlikely to have been the issue. One thread said check the relay... but i'm not sure there are relays in the circuit (unless anyone knows differently).
I have taken the board out, and tested the board side of the blue connector when connected to the car. I see 12v incoming for the switch pack, and 12v incoming for the illumination (switches on and off with the headlights. I can also see 12v and 5v on the feet of the voltage regulator. I can read continuity between earth and the pins in marty's pin-out mapping or rr.net for all the window switches. Visually, under the caps, the contacts of all the switches look clean. There was a bit of corrosion on some of the soldered feet of the power connector and the main chap , but nothing too scary - cleaned it up with contact cleaner
I even disconnected the battery and reconnected it (some folks report that that works, although I was sceptical) but that had no effect, other than to ask me to reset all my windows, lol
nanocom can move all the windows no problem - so becm/ windows are fine.
What's the next most likely point of failure. A fried main chip in the switch pack?
Out of the 5 UK Linleys how many remain and apart from the Dunsfold one where are they?
The Nanocom is showing drivers air bag open circuit. Is the cable in yellow ducting from the steering column to the SRS loom the "shorting link" which the manual says to disconnect? I can't see anything else.
I've disconnected all the leads and given them a spray clean and cleared the fault a couple of times. The only thing left is the rotary coupler.Is this a frequent culprit?
Thanks as always.
I remember those words from Sloth when we were trying to get the old Poly bushes out of my radius arms back at the last summer camp. At some point in the past, my car had been fitted with Orange poly bushes which had survived pretty well I must admit. They put up a real fight trying to get them out of the radius arms, we couldn't press them out, cut them out or drill through them hence Sloth asking if there was a blowlamp in the workshop so we could burn them out. As it happened there wasn't so we had to continue with brute force and ignorance. When they were eventually out, we found that moisture had got between the bush and radius arm so the hole in the arm that we intended pressing a new, OE rubber, bush into, was covered in rust scale. I spent ages with a hammer and punch knocking the scale out to clean up the hole for the new bushes.
Although it hadn't felt bad before it felt much better with the correct bushes in, so a good job done. Just recently I noticed that the rear panhard rod also had orange poly bushes in it and they weren't looking too good. I'd also noticed the odd random clunk from the back end at times too so decided to do those.
The end that attaches to the chassis was badly worn with a good 5mm of side to side slop in the centre steel bush. That fell out and the poly bit eventually came out after lots of prising with a big screwdriver. Inside was, again, well rusted so needed a lot of work to clean it up enough for it to be possible to push the new rubber bush in. However, the axle end hadn't really worn at all. Tried pressing the steel centre out and it didn't want to know. The poly is so flexible that it just springs back to how it was when pressure is taken off. Tried cutting the outer lip off so the whole thing could be pushed out. Same problem and it was at this point I remembered Sloth's words and picked up a blowlamp. He was right, it can't fight back when it's a liquid but even that wasn't simple. Heat the poly up and it goes black, bubbles a bit but doesn't quite reach the liquid stage and had to be dug out a bit at a time with a screwdriver. Once out, I had to spend even longer cleaning up the hole as it now had melted poly in it as well as rust scale. Pressed the new bushed in and fitted it back to the car.
What surprised me was how much difference two seemingly insignificant bushes make. With the sort of mileages I do I want my car to feel 'tight', no slop or play in anything and it had, but now it feels even better. So yet another reason why poly bushes are a bad idea.
A previous owner had run a fly lead from the unused headlight wiper relay connection to the fuel pump relay which didn't look very nice so having acquired a secondhand fuse box I thought it would be worth looking a bit deeper. It all looked fine on the surface but...