When i had my door apart to fix the latch, i discovered two rubbers in the bottom of the door. I asked about it at the time and someone said they were the rubbers out of the window rails and will cause the window to rattle when they're missing and its open. Sure enough my window rattles and i'd like to fix it.
Does anyone have any pointers for refitting these rubbers? After todays efforts at trying to fix stuff, i'd like to be a little better prepared and avoid another frustrating day getting nowhere!
LINLEY has finally be completed. Paint job finished and she’s ready for show.
The keen eyes amongst you may notice a few things I added to her that was not LINLEY spec but I believe makes her look neater and more sleek.
Firstly, I used centre caps from the HSE Sport (#LR094547) which are black with Land Rover in a silver logo instead of the silver ones with Green Land Rover logo.
Secondly, I replaced the front and rear Land Rover emblems with the HSE Sport Black emblems to match the paintwork and finally I had the body trim moldings painted to match the smooth gloss black finish of the bumpers instead of the standard black rubber look that was on the originals. I am going to get a ceramic coat put on it In May.
I left the mud flaps off for the time being to see if she looks more “civilized” without them. Haven’t made my mind up on that yet. The amber turn signal on the front body panel is not the correct one, the original was the clear ones, and this was put on in error at the paint shop (how this happened is beyond me because I didn’t bring it in with an orange turn signal) but since this photo was taken the correct lens has been put on it.
But she’s done and that’s almost 2 years work completed on her. Everything works and almost every part has been replaced on it. I’d be brazen enough to say that she is as good as new. The main things I’m proud of on her are that the air suspension works like new, the front heated seats work, the heated windshield works, there is no book symbol on the HEVAC Control, there are no faults in the vehicle, I’ve a brand new set of keys including FOBs and a valet key as I replaced the sticking drivers door handle and ignition key barrel plus the navigation system works and I have a full set of North American navigation CDs along with the Canadian set. The black lambs wool front and rear rugs are also still with the vehicle. An original mint condition LINLEY Press Pack, that was only given out in limited numbers, is also included with the vehicle.
I was also able to get a copy of the original build sheets for this specific vehicles VIN which included a list of all the special order parts.
About to turn my attention to the H&H and put her back on bags and the same with the Westminster....
I’ll post better staged photos of her after the ceramic work as the two I’ve attached here do not really do her justice but I wanted to show her as soon as she was complete.
Theres a lot of chat on the forums about changing the head unit on a P38 and various issues that it seems to cause, so i thought i'd post my own experience.
My car has the "high level" sound system with three speakers and an amplifier in each door.
I really wanted to add bluetooth for handsfree, and i had a spare Pioneer bluetooth headunit i'd removd from an old car, so ideally i would fit that and job done.
reading online all sorts of stuff, i decided to just have a go myself and see what i found.
First of all i just plugged the head unit in exactly as the original. the 10pin speaker connector doesnt fit, so i made up some short jumper wires to test things out.
This gave the first set of findings. A) the door amplifiers buzz like mad if they are powered but have an open input. For testing you can simply short the two leads in the plug and the buzzing will stop. B) driving the door amplifiers with the "speaker" output of the Pioneer worked fine, there was no buzzing or noise or anything weird, but it was VERY loud. On that particular unit "30" is usually a decent listening volume, and "20" is quiet. With it connected to the P38, 7 was loud, and 10 was rattling the door cards....
As expected, the speaker level output is much too high. Much to be expected, the door amps clearly expect a much lower level input.
A friend suggested i try using one leg of the speaker out from the head unit, and pull the other leg to ground. This is because most modern head units have the speaker outputs wired in a "push pull" fashion with a pair of transistors pulling the signal in opposite polarity. Using one output and ground would thus half the voltage. This worked, and did make it slightly quieter, but it was still too much, and also introduced a hiss (albeit a fairly subtle hiss) at lower volumes.
So i set that idea aside, and instead investigated using the "pre-outs" from the head unit. Clearly this is the "correct" thing to use, its intended as a line level output for driving another amplifier. For testing i cut the ends off some phono leads, crimped on some ferrules and stuffed them into the 10 pin connector on the range rover harness. Hooked it up, and well, it just worked. Nice crisp clear audio, no messing about with resistors and all that mess as posted elsewhere.
I just needed to make something a bit more permenant without making a mess of the wiring. I initially wanted to get a matching plug for the 10pin connector on the car, however they seem a bit rare and awkward to get hold of, and i was being impatient, so i grabbed a spare Deutsch DT20 series from the box at work and set about with the crimpers.
Replaced the car connector with a 12way DT, and made up a lead with a matching socket going to the 5 phono leads.
With that done, i had to repin the pioneer power flylead to get it to feed the "remote on" signal to the correct pin to turn the amps on. For some reason landrover didnt use the proper wire for that.
With that lot done and a final test, it all works as expected.
I now need to find a minute to install the microphone for the bluetooth part then i can get some photos of the finished installation.
Has anyone got any experience with the baby "jump start" battery boxes?
Right now specifically interested in using one as a 12V power source for the alarms and anti theft devices on Her Ladyships BMW K1200LT which flatten the bike battery in about 6 weeks - 2 months. Garage in separate block so no power. I figure that she can easily pull something that small and, basically, portable off every week and take it back to her flat to recharge overnight. Presumably when it goes back on again it will top up the main battery whilst looking after the alarms et al. If I find one that works for her I plan to get one to do same job on my P38, which usually needs a top up charge a couple or four times a year if I'm not out and about much.
Problem is deciding on what is a good brand, which capacity specification to believe and whether a separate 12 DC output alongside the jump start one is useful. far as I can see most of the usual suspects quote the capacity for the USB 3.2 / 5V output in milli amp hours to get nice big numbers. Real 12 volt capacity seems to be around 1/3 of those numbers. Say 1 1/2 to 3 amp hours for the under £100 market.
Does anyone know the dimensions of the bush tool?
Size of the entry end, size of the exit end, length/depth and how far down the taper starts?
A friend of mine just got big new lathe and we're thinking of having a go at making one/some.
Hi, I’m Dan from up near Preston.
I’ve got a 2003 RR Hse which is no end of grief but just gonna head over to elektrickery for help :)
Seems to work fine if you do it properly. Not the forum software or Imgur but operator error. Suitably edited so the pictures do show up
Nope, we don't meet in the wilds of Swindon, just here in Manila...
Where their Land Rovers are upside down.
Eight, not bad for a first meet.
One of the guys was getting a set of carpet runners delivered, so I had to ask
Next meet, delivered.
And fitted, Colour isn't as far away as the photo shows.
Next meet included Land Rover Club Philippines. One hundred and many vehicles. Someone should have told the restaurant!
These aren't my pics...
Ooh, those ZUs look good there!
Then there was one I couldn't make...
But i like the photo.
Great fun and the banter is typical, revolving around key-fobs, pros and cons of EAS, whose broke this week, the usual.
A pal of mine here, who runs a Eurocar centric garage and owns a '38 says, quite rightly, "There are some people who really shouldn't own a Range Rover." All the guys I know definitely should! Except those still on coils. :-)
There's another coming up later this month, I'll be making that one.
I did my balljoints last year, and ever since the axle oil seal on the drivers side has been weeping.
MOT is due and the leak had reached somewhat silly levels, with the tyre and rim caked in axle oil, as well as oil dripping off the arch liner, fog lights and mud guard....
So I pulled the car apart last week, and fitted a nice new genuine seal, made 100% sure it was all fitted nicely and reassembled everything. Stuck my head under it this morning to check before i took it along to the MOT, and theres a drip of oil sitting on the axle end, and a streak of oil along the tyre. So clearly its continued leaking....
The only think i can guess, is the alignment of the balljoint is wrong? I know for sure the collet on that side of the axle was loose when i popped the balljoint free, so theres every chance its moved...
Any thoughts or ideas? Anyone know of anywhere that hires out the tool to properly reset the alignment of the balljoint?
Having just changed my (and others) radius arm bushes here's a few observations for anyone considering poly bushes.
1, The yellow Britpart ones have a reputation to wearing out and turning to dust within a few months (no idea about the black or blue ones but I suspect they will be much the same as the yellow or orange ones).
2, My car was fitted with the supposedly far superior orange poly bushes (the ones that cost about 4 times the price of genuine original bushes). They've lasted quite a long time and many miles, but although the car didn't exhibit any of the usual complaints of wandering steering, vibrations or anything like that, it has always felt like the front tyre pressures were too high over small bumps and uneven surfaces even though the ride was fine on smooth surfaces. Having now changed to standard bushes, the steering is more responsive, the ride over uneven surfaces is vastly improved and the whole car feels much smoother.
3, The poly bushes are an absolute pain to remove. It took Marty's 20 ton press, a number of different sized mandrels, hacksaws, hole cutters and just about everything else we could find short of burning them out, to remove them from the radius arms. When we finally got them out, we found that they also allow moisture to get between the bush and the arm so rather than pushing the old ones out and finding a nice clean shiny hole, the inside of the radius arms were rusted to hell. It took a rotary wire brush to clean the surface, a punch and hammer to knock the rust scale off the inside of the radius arm and emery cloth to clean them up before they were smooth enough to press the new bushes in.
So the moral of this is poly bushes should be put into the same category as coil spring conversions, don't even consider them.
I'm converting an ex ambulance Rover V8 powered LDV van to LPG, it has twin dashpot type carbs but I'm not sure if they're SU's or something else. I've had mixers on shelf to suit SU's as fitted on some Rover V8's for years... they might fit this but I'm asking in case they don't as it could save me a bit of time when I start the job if mixers on shelf don't suit and I need to order other mixers - Mixers for dashpot type carbs are not circular they bolt directly on so need to match the bolt pattern and flow area. Day off work today, just had the van dropped off and took the pics.
Quaife LSD on this van... And on the floor seen through the window to the left of the sticker Romano reducers I removed from this P38 https://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=14509&sid=7a71dc88de8366acee8e5d1015589dcc
The LDV has only done 26000 miles in it's 21 years but the engine smells a bit blow-by breathy and exhaust smells rich so I'm half expecting a few complications, running rich on petrol won't affect running on LPG but blowby and crankcase ventilation issues can. The engine has a bit of a tick, if it's had so little use wonder if rust ever formed in cylinders and damaged rings, no smoke though. The van is high roof, automatic, carries a cooker and camper gear, canoos etc on the massive full length roof cage and owners reckon it gets 14mpg which I'd think seems about right.
My 2015 vintage condenser has sadly succumbed to incontinence, in the same week that my BMW rubbed through one of the lines and also emptied itself of its precious refrigerant.
Anyway - back to coolpartsuk on eBay and ordered another one. When this turned up, I was sure it was the wrong one...
Upside down and the fact its narrower with pointy outy brackets threw me off... but it does in fact fit! And as a bonus, the fan mounting holes line up perfectly, whereas the previous couple of aftermarket in the 'old style' have been a bit of hit and miss... mostly miss.
Has held vacuum, so off to get it and the BMW gassed at somepoint.
I apologize in advance... this is a really silly question ... but I’ve been searching through my service manual and looking through various websites online...
How is the flat cover above the spare tire well removed? I see many photos online with them out of the vehicle, but can’t seem to find how it’s secured or hinged to the body.... aside from a few small philips head screws. Is there a spring or a tab that needs to be released? Or do I need to give it a firm pull to release it? Or is it actually screwed in with those small brackets? Just trying to avoid breaking more of the already delicate interior bits!
Cleaned, polished and treated to some new rear tailgate gas struts!
Hi All. So I know I went ghost for a long while but am back and hoping to be more active...
Anyhow, does anyone know the length of the alternator link lead YSB106340 described in Technical Bulletin Number 0010 CDS. ref L8450bu Issue 2 dated 06.10.99? Instead of spending USD 60 on an official one, I can spend less than a third of that for an alternative here: https://www.wiringproducts.com/pre-made-battery-cables. It seems it's just a straight wire, after all.
For context, I'm debugging an intermittently functioning AC compressor, and I came across the aforementioned bulletin. I have the compressor link harness kit (YMQ104590AA) on order and should be getting it in about a couple of weeks.
And the drip drip drip of new bits to fix progresses forward.
I have the classic coolant drip from the motor side hose (input) to the throttle body heater plate.
I can repair--I can bypass with a U union---or I can remove the whole system by plugging the hose at the top of the block and at the bottom of the coolant reservoir.
As far as repairing--- I went simple and tried a new hose clamp and it still pushes coolant up the nipple then drips along the outside of the hose--so I assume that the hose is now deformed/crushed enough from the original clamp that a new hose clamp is chasing the wind.
Is it safe to assume that it is only the hose since I see no drips coming from the seal at the plate-- or does the nipple eventually crack and a new hose will not do the trick. Is this one of those cases when you just go forward and replace both hoses and the plate?
We can only get the plate and the hose out of the top of the block- and they are cheap. LR no longer offers the line back to the reservoir and I have read that the plastic line gets fragile and will crack. If you do the repair should you remove it and replace with long rubber line to avoid a possible catastrophe?
How many have opted to just run a U union and take the chances with the plastic line?
How many have just plugged the system at the top of the block and at the reservoir?
I am open to all options.
While trying to find the source of a bad rumble, I recently replaced my front wheel bearings. I could swear the rumble was coming from the front and only later discovered it was the rear diff ! Not wishing to lie on my back in the drive to do the job, I got an indy to fit a new diff.
The car is running OK now but I thought I would check out the rear hubs and brakes which was not part of the indy's job.
I am not entirely happy with what they have done. They fitted a refurbished 2 pin diff without asking me and managed to round some of the bolts holding the hub carrier on.
However, one thing I noticed is that they have used sealant on the joint between the hub carrier and the rear axle. They are machined faces with 6 bolts.
I can't see the point of using sealant as the oil seal keeps the oil in the axle. There is no mention of using sealant in Rave.
Stereo in P38 went on the blink the other day. No volume control on head or steering wheel and sound only coming from one rear speaker and now auto adjust.
I unplugged the wiring from navigation unit in boot and stereo works a charm....
I don’t need the navigation system as it’s about as useful these days as using a paper map BUT being a stickler for keeping these vehicles original, I have to ask, will a replacement Navigation unit fix my problem or is it a different issue, all be it related to the navigation unit?
Hi, apparently a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is way better than WD40 and all the other penetrants - that's what I read on a US forum, gotta be worth a try.
In spite of having found a vehicle a year ago with nice dry carpet on the RHS transmission tunnel, my O rings now appear to be leaking.
I am hoping to sort this quite soon, adopting the 'cut through the side panel' approach. I am getting through about 1/2lt of coolant every 1000 miles so I'm hoping that this is the only problem (fingers tightly crossed) but I need to sort this out before worrying that it is something more sinister!
Whilst I have the binnacle out to remove the air ducting, I thought I'd look at replacing the dash lights with LEDs. I'm pretty sure I read that someone else has already done this (Marty maybe?). If so, is there a direct bulb replacement or is it more involved (ie fitting new bulb plugs etc)?