hi, I am looking for a foam rubber filler piece that sits behind the drivers' side door card, on the top front edge of the door. It could be something that will have to be made up of other materials but I would be interested to see whether there is an actual part number for it.
Perhaps someone mave have a suggestion for another type of foam rubber to make it up, if LR don't have it.
After <mumbles> time faffing on with the Nanocom flicking the fuel pump on/off on cold starts, I finally bothered my arse to swap the fuel pump relay for one of the screen heat relays.
Now it has only been a couple of days and this was always a bit intermittent but she has started first flick of the key ever since cold or warm. Coincidence?
Hi, I would just like to check with the members here, about the drivers door lock acting the maggot again.
I thought that I had the lock issue sorted, after the rod connected to the rear of the key barrel became disconnected. I sorted it out by fitting a new rod locating spring fixer.
However, today I went out in the car, and pulled into a garage to fill up. And what happened - I closed the drivers side front door, to fill up, and the door just bounced back open. I immediately knew that the latch was faulty, again.
The difference this time is that the lock, or latch, is vibrating or buzzing, really loudly, when I unlock the car with the remote keyfob. As with the last time, neither the inside pull handle, the key barrel, or the outer door handle don't release on the drivers' door. Only the passenger door, the two rear doors and the tailgate, for a second or two, just long enough to get those doors open.
Am I right in guessing that the door latch has packed up this time ?
As you've probably noticed - I'm not on here that much anymore - life in NZ has kept me stupidly busy, along with getting married last year, and well, more work.
I'm slowly trying to get back into some P38 parts as and when I have time, but that isn't as plentiful as it was a few years ago over COVID times! I have managed to make a V2 of the RF Filter, which is pretty much all SMD and assembled at the PCB factory, which makes the boards smaller, the boxes 3D printable, and assembly/programming/testing quicker and easier.
Anyway - I am going to be over in the UK for about 3 weeks (well, spread over 5, but we are going to Europe for a couple of weeks) between the end of March and the end of April (so in a month's time effectively).
My workshop lease is up for renewal at the end of May, and I don't want to renew it this year, as it's costing more than the mortgage on the house, and I'm never going to get the RR's there back into any sort of working shape - so I need to get it cleared out, so I can tell them I'm not having it any longer.
I was wondering if anyone on here would be interested in lending a hand to help clear some of it out so I can get at least one of the P38's there off to the scrap yard, and the second one - sadly will probably follow suit now - as in my last absence, rats got inside it and have basically trashed the wiring and the under carpet foam. Damn shame as it's a 2000 with 89K miles on it, and otherwise is reasonable nick once it would be cleaned up, but I fear it would be too much of a project to restore now!
That being said - if there are any parts people want from it, then if you're free and want to come give me a bit of a hand to sort some stuff out, then I am sure there's plenty there I'd be happy to get rid of cheaply or even free.
I have a few sets of wheels which are in good condition from memory (though the tyres aren't!) and also a totally rebuilt front axle assembly which I had fitted to my '98 before it became too much of a task to restore... but it's been painted, has new ball joints, original front diff with about 85K miles on it, new air springs, shocks, radius arm bushes, brake calipers etc.
I also have some tools - a big air compressor, hydraulic press, and probably other bits I can't remember.
The '2000 (if someone wanted it for parts - but would definitely need to be trailered - though it has 4 wheels/tyres and would roll to load) has a good Thor V8, which ran nicely the last time I started it. It's missing an alternator, and the radiator had the bleed nipple snapped off and repaired when I got it, but I also have at least one other good Thor radiator that can go with it. It's also got a DSP amp conversion in it, which I might yank out but if someone wanted to offer for the vehicle for parts, then I'll probably leave it in. I also have the original door handle/lock somewhere (I swapped it when my shop got broken into YEARS ago and they nicked the key - probably to try and joy ride off in it, but I had disconnected the battery, mega fuses etc so it wouldn't power up/yet alone start!) and I have a brand new Land Rover key fob which matches door/ignition/BECM/glove box etc.
We land into the UK on the 25th I think of March, go to Europe on the 7th - 20th April, and then leave the UK on the 30th April, so if anyone is free between 26th March - 6th April, or 21st April - 29th April and fancies a Workshop Wrap Up with me, and possibly some cheap parts, P38 advice/looking at any of your P38's whilst I'm back aswell, then let me know - it would be much appreciated, as getting the workshop gone is my biggest stress at the moment! My wife says she will help me, but she hasn't seen the state of it yet!!!
Sooz car cut out today just after driving through a puddle then started when recovery arrived.
Symptoms match CKP failure which happened a year ago, and has been replaced. I want to check the connector for water ingress.
Can I access the CKP connector and wiring without taking off the wheel and removing the arch liner? Most photos online are close ups. I'll look in RAVE tomorrow but I'm looking to check it, not replace it.
I was just pricing up oil & air filters prior to doing a service & happened upon this one at Rimmers. It's claimed to be not only better breathing but also is cleanable by air or water. At £27.90 it's even more expensive than a genuine JLR filter (£23.49) & much more expensive than an OEM (£6.95) or a cheap aftermarket (£3.15) so would take quite a few years before you saved money with it. Has anyone experience or an opinion?
How to change them? It's the front off side, leaking around the collet outside, pipe is good, clean and home fully. Does the collet need to be removed to change these seals? New seals arrived this morning , intending to do the job in a few days when I don't need the car incase something goes wrong hahaha!
Just been informed my (less that 4k miles a year Classic Car) Premium with Adrian Flux will be up by 30% this year....!!
Any recommended suitable alternatives ??
Household Insurance policies increased similarly this last year of course, based on the 'increased price of re-building materials'
although that makes me wonder what the policy/claim ratio is...
So, is this just me or are there a whole new bunch of rip-offs / cons / excuses being used to baselessly exploit us all further now ?
What are the oddest excuses you have heard ?? (One broker I queried mentioned Brexit !!)
Hi, I would like to ask for more advice, this time about removing the roof rail finishers to check for a water leak.
I park the car facing forward on a slight downward incline, and leaking slightly towards the passenger side [RHD]. I noticed water marks on the sun visor, and SWMBO said that the roof lining above the visor is wet. With the way that the car is parked the rain almost certainly runs across the roof, towards the pass. side front corner and therefore runs down the roof rail finisher trim.
I had the sunroof out last year and I know that the drains are clean, in fact I checked them around last August if I remember correctly. Because of where the roof lining and sun visor are wet I am suspecting that te rain is getting in through the roof sealant. Therefore I want to take off the roof trim.
I have been led to believe that it is supposed to be fairly easy, getting the trims off, but I have also read that you need to remove the windscreen top finisher first. Is this the case ? I have seen pictures of there being a slide on trim clip for the windscreen top finisher, and from pictures they appear to slide on to pegs on the bodywork just above the windscreen. How is the best way to get this top finisher trim off ? Lastly, are those trim clips still available or have they gone NLA ?
I've recently aquired a cheap 1997 4.6 V8 that I've got an MOT on and seems to drive nicely. I've fixed a few issues like high idle, used MAF, new lambdas and bushes but one has me stumped.
The temperature needle on the dash doesn't move, if I short the connector out at the sender the red overtemperature light comes on but the needle is still on cold. Does anyone know if the light and needle movement are independent or if it should move to H when the light is on am I looking at getting some new clocks? I've connected the Nanocom and the engine ECU is seeing 90 degrees when the attached photo was taken.
I have a couple that need to be rebuilt...
Is this the best option?
There are ebay specials for £9 but I'd rather do this stuff once each.
Does anyone have any recommendations please?
I thought I'd get a spare set of EAS gubbins so I can rebuild and swap instead of leaving the Duchess sitting on her arse while I build motivation between steps.
So I bought a semi-dodgy looking set (non rebuilt but allegedly tested good) with the intention of swapping it in to see if it's working, then making a decision. If it doesn't work I've a decent shot at a return as it was described as working.
However, the exhaust looks to have been blowing white powder for some time. Assuming this hasn't been used by a Colombian Cartel to make deliveries, I'm guessing this is dessicant from the dryer.
Should I just rip this thing to bits now, or would it be OK to hook it up to the vehicle and see if it works in the current state? I'm slightly concerned about potentially pushing dessicant through the rest of the system.
Trotting back from Manchester the middle of last month the windscreen was hit by a stone about an inch and a bit from the bottom and pretty much under the parked position of the driver wiper blade close to the drive shaft. Crack started out about 6 inches long on the outer screen and spread steadily. By now it's pretty much all the way across the screen on both sides of the glass. Presumably the recent freezing weather didn't help.
So it needed fixing pronto.
Doing the usual insurance company route AXA directed me to the Autoglass portal and I got an appointment for January 25th at Tonbridge around 13 miles away. Was about 10 day wait which is annoying but I guess acceptable.
Half way to the appointment I got a phone call saying they couldn't do the job then and that they would be back in touch to re-arrange.
Total silence from Autoglass since.
Managed to dig out the semi-secret phone number to speak to a human but two calls haven't gotten me much beyond "An e-mail has been set to our technical help desk." So far as I can see the semi-secret phone number goes to a trained petting and feather smoothing person who isn't really authorised to do anything. First time round I did get the pleasure of 20 minutes on hold listening to "music!" that was crappy even before being wrecked by the on hold filters. Small reward was being able to tease out a suggestion that the issues were due to some of the external trim being obsolete and no longer available from Land Rover. Second call was less helpful.
So tell me something I didn't know.
Looks like that as of now the lower trim is un-obtanium new, pattern upper trims can be got and trim clips for both can be found but it's unclear whether or not they are factory or pattern. So whats the next move given that I've already started the insurance company route.
Ultimate fall back is I buy a screen, find trims, accepting used but good for the lower, and pay an independent fitter to do the deed. Approaching £1,000 I fear. Ouch!
Last time round Direct Line got National Windscreens on the job. Fitted a pattern, un-tinted screen with iffy heating, re-used the old trim and dislodged the rubber finisher between screen and dashboard. Also managed to damage the bottom trim and, I suspect, some of the clips. Not going there again.
I've recently replaced the standard dual cone subwoofer with a more "modern" compact subwoofer.
Reasoning was twofold. Firstly I wanted the packing space being taken up by the standard sub and secondly the standard units speakers were torn anyway, so it was just taking up space and not contributing anyway.
I decided to go for a Phillips unit. It is nice and compact and seemed to get some good reviews. It's power requirements also fell within the cars limits, so no need to change out fuses or uprate wiring to supply the sub.
The new subwoofer fits nicely inside the space between the outer skin of the vehicle above and just behind the left rear wheel arch. This means that the full space previously occupied by the standard sub is now available for packing more beer. Perfect.
I first set about fabricating a mounting bracket for the sub that wraps around the back of the sub tying into the standard mounting holes of the sub:
The idea was to support weight of the sub from the top and bottom with a tight fitting bracket. The sub is supplied with some self tapping fasteners that screw into the sub itself, but I needed the fasteners to be flatter so I used some countersunk M6 fasteners. I tapped the holes in the back of the sub to M6 which worked nicely.
To mount the sub to the car I enlarged two of the standard cable handling clip holes above the proposed mounting location and fitted two rivnuts. Now I had nice threaded holes for the top of the sub mounting bracket to attach to:
For the bottom mounting I welded a nut to the sub mounting bracket (which can be seen in the 2nd image above) and drilled a hole in the body for another fastener to screw into the sub mounting bracket:
The wiring was very simple with the sub only needing a Battery Supply, an Ignition Signal (from the radio to make the unit power up), a Ground Return and an Audio Signal (so 4 wires). These happen to be exactly what the standard subwoofer uses, so I just cut off the standard connector, fitted a DT connector that I had lying around to the vehicle wiring and the sub wiring and tested the unit. Worked well.
The electrical connector I cabletied to the top of the sub mounting bracket like so:
As can be seen from the images above I also stuck some sound insulating/damping material to all the body panels in the area. Without this insulation all the vibrating body panels absorbed the energy making the sub not sound great and diminishing its power quite a bit.
The standard rear wing inner "cover", or whatever it is called, is filled with gaping holes for the mounting hardware and wiring of the standard sub to move through and attach. These holes now needed to be covered up.
I decided to 3d print covers for these holes, in thin semi flexible material so that it could bend and conform to the shape of the wheelarch lines cover thingy. I heated these up, shaped them as required and then fitted them. I didn't take any pictures of this part, but I'll post some picture later. It worked quite well, and I even printed a mount for the subwoofer remote, with a clip in cover, that fits inside one of the gaping holes. Some of the clips holding the covers in place broke off during fitment (layer line breaks) but all in all the covers worked well and look decently good for what they are. Pics of this to follow.
reading about how ford has walked away from ev's and toyota saying that it's more about hybrids, i was just wondering what's the perception of ev's on the other side of the world. the Aust gov keep pushing but it's not working. the Aust gov have lost the plot with the renewables push for solar farms and wind farms that are proving to be a joke at best. i think the biggest issue with ev's is the way they have been pushed as a replacement for ice cars, they will never replace an ice car with today's technology. they were rejected a 100 years ago when they came up with the petrol engine cars and it will happen again if they are not careful. i do believe there is a place for ev's but that is not on the open roads, stay within a 100km's of home and do your own charging from home and that is how they should be advertised, city vehicles only.
not a range rover issue but if we were in the pub, it would be up for discussion.
Hi guys, sorry about this but I need more advice ! I posted earlier about an issue with the key not opening the drivers' side door, but the key fob works fine. Unfortunately, I have to look for further help as the problem has become worse.
I went out in the car today and the door, which I left unlocked, opened fine. I traveled about 10 miles and got out of the car, walked away, but then realised I had left something in the car and returned. I opened the door door, which again I had left unlocked, but when I closed the door it didn't fully close but it was locked, as were all the other doors. I couldn't open it at all, but, with the remote, I could open all the other doors. So long story short, I climbed in through the passenger door and drove home.
I had someone fit a new latch about 12 months ago, but, looking, back, I have my doubts that it was new. So I am thinking that the micro-switches are acting the maggot, and I now need to fit a new latch myself.
So the biggest problem now is - how do I open the drivers' side door ? I can open everything so I can lower the window. I read a topic here on the forum about getting a metal spike and breaking the top of the latch, but I wonder whether there is clearer advice on how to do this ? Or a video showing how to do it ? I think that Richard [Gilbert] has some good advice and maybe he could give me some more help !!!
All suggestions really appreciated.
Well, it's me again !!!!
I am thinking of buying a couple of Wabco rear wheel sensors, from a guy in Australia. He has a few in stock, but without getting under the car how do I know which sensors are fitted to my car ? How do I know if they are the sensors with long leads, or sensors with shorter leads ?
I am not sure whether this comes under "Electrickery" but here goes !!
I left the P38 with my local garage guy [who I do trust] while I was away. He was changing the heater matrix while I was visiting my son, to help him move, and my guy did the job and dropped te P38 back at my house. Now, I only lock the car with the key to save key fob transmission issues [ the fob works fine at the house but I can't go near the supermarket and use the fob as I may not be able to open the car again] but when I went out to the car yesterday afternoon, after tree weeks sitting, the key didn't work to open the car.
There doesn't feel like there is any pressure on the key when I turn it so I suspect that something may have come un-attached, such as the locking rod. The door lock opens, but only with the remote key fob that I left with the garage so is this a case of needing to resyncing the key fobs ?
Does disconnecting the car battery prevent the physical key from working in the door lock ? I thought that the key would always open the lock, but am I wrong about this ?
There are no other problems, and both keys start the car. So I am wondering if the door lock has disconnected something, or do I just need to resync the keys again ?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Hi, just a quick, rather vague, question - when I start up my P38 the fan belt bits rattle or squeak for a while, until the engine drops back to a regular tick-over. I am guessing that this may be the belt tensioner but I just thought that I would ask the question anyway.
Hello, new to this forum.
Had read of some posts looks great.
I own a Pre production P38 M246CVC
M2 build chassis 300129
Here is a photo of M246 being recovered.