I had posted here a few months about, car was misfiring, shaking and making a strange noise on acceleration. We thought could be the coil packs. I did some investigation and just nothing was working. Next step was a compression test but since its winter here and I don't currently have a garage (its feels like -19F today (-28 for my european friends) I decided to just take the car to the shop, next step was a compression test which they did. Well, no good news there, they told me cyl 5 has no compression at all. They thing its a piston or a ring. Their recommendation is a new "old" engine.
Obviously this is not going to be cheap but my problem here is putting an old engine in that might have issues soon enough. There is an engine with 92k miles available, its almost $4000. After labour we are probably looking at 7 or 8. Am I crazy but this just does not sound like a good idea, at 92k it could need HGs done amongst other things. Other option is a remanufactured engine but that jumps to $8000 + labour which atm it is not something I am willing to spend.
Rebuilding could also be an option but also not cheap and in some cases could be as much as a "new" engine if done properly.
I really love the p38 and this one is in great shape, still on air of course, body in fantastic shape, I just did all the rear brake lines myself and other bits and bobs. Am I crazy to try to do an engine replacement myself? My idea is if I do this and there are issues in a few years oh well at least I learned vs paying someone and getting nothing for it. I have never done something of this scope but I love learning, a few years ago I did not even do my own oil changes but have been replacing stuff on the p38 and just learning a lot. This would take me a long time to do and I have other cars so time is not a problem.
Or if you guys have any other ideas I would love to hear them. I probably should just let it go but I just love this thing too much,.
Thank you
I had to stop working on the air con for more important things in life, however now attempting to get it sorted.
My auto electrician is 55km away and while he is helpful, 1997 P38's don't form any part of his business.
All the work I have done so far has solved problems along the way but still I haven't been totally successful. So I have posted a long list of what I have done so far in the hope I can gain a bit more knowledge to reach the final goal of cold air in my car.
Compressor changed for one that was known to be operational.
Compressor clutch clearance adjusted to low side of specifications.
Land Rover wiring loom for early models added
Giving power to the compressor via a relay. No 10 in the fuse/relay box. 12.7 volts when last tested.
The known problem of corroded multi pin plug/socket cut out & cables soldered. Right side foot well.
Any connectors relevant to the air con operation cleaned.
Nanocom now showing YES to grant. So it’s talking to the engine module.
Aspirator Sensor for cabin temp. Removed from dashboard. Fan & sensor cleaned out, removed fluff.
Ambient Temp Sensor made using 10Kohm thermistor, piece of plastic conduit and thermal epoxy.
Heater Pipe Temp Sensor made using 30Kohm thermistor original plastic housing clip and thermal epoxy.
Receiver Drier Renewed.
Pressure Switch 2 (single switch) Renewed.
Took it into town to get Re gassed. Had to supply 12v to relay 10 to get the charge of 1200grms of gas into the system. Yes i know not the1250 grms but he stopped at 1200
HEVAC module still refused to activate Relay 10.
However supplying 12 volts to the relay proved the system was working … nice cold air.
But on a trial drive evaporator temp going down to 1,5 to 2 degrees, compressor clutch dropped out and fans activated. Evaporator temp went up and operation continued.
However I was warned that bypassing the HEVAC could possibly cause problems.
So the wiring bypass was removed.
Now just Fitted :-
Pressure Switch 1 (the trinary switch)
Evaporator Sensor Renewed.
On engine start up system would not operate the compressor clutch. So switched off.
Disconnected the battery for 15 minutes.
On re connection and start up HEVAC recognized everything and the on / off switch on the HEVAC will switch the compressor clutch on / off and there is no “book” symbol on the HEVAC panel, so its not reporting any problems.
Nanocom showing only one fault.
“32 Compressor Clutch Control Circuit Open Or Shorted to Ground”
Fault Type = Current.
Yet there is 12.7 volts at the compressor. Clutch can be operated using HEVAC ON/OFF button.
Compressor clutch clearance adjusted to low side of specifications. Done at the beginning of workings.
The smaller pipe out of the compressor gets very hot, larger pipe more at ambient temperature.
So NO cold air.
Blockage ??? Expansion Valve ???
I don’t have any gauges so guess I will have to arrange a trip into to town to my auto electrician.
Does anybody have any further ideas before I book in to my auto electrician?
I recently bought a P38 from 1998 whit some work all around. I have been trying to get the tailgate to work but no succes, that's why I'm here. The lock mecanism of the tailgate is working because i can manually open it. I have replaced the button and actuator in the tailgate. I also replaced the ECU in the RH front door. If i press the button on the tailgate the actuator gets 6.4 V. What do I do now?
Car is on 206k.
You’ll hear two sounds in the video:
What could this be?
https://share.icloud.com/photos/01ewvQuUiDShpbqnfeDlH_buA
Hi everyone,
New member here, finally joining the P38 corner of the Land Rover universe. I currently own a Discovery 3 and a Range Rover P38—two machines I both love and hate for all the obvious reasons. They’re brilliant when they work, maddening when they don’t, and somehow I keep coming back for more.
The P38 in particular has that perfect mix of charm, capability, and… let’s say creative engineering choices that make it overcomplicated, temperamental, and constantly in need of attention. But when it behaves, it’s still one of the most satisfying vehicles to drive.
Looking forward to sharing experiences, learning from the veterans, and swapping stories about the joys and disasters that come with keeping these legends on the road
Asking for a favour, maybe a bit of an odd request but I'm not trying to get anyone to send me illegal substances hehe.
This is a link to the seal part I need https://magictiltparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=72 , ideally I need 8 of those but 6 would suffice if 8 wouldn't fit in a padded envelope.
I need some axle seals for my boat trailer, the trailer was made by MagicTilt in Florida using components (like axle stuff) sourced from another US company called UFP (maybe now known as Dexter Group). I contacted the trailer manufacturer who told me they don't keep records more than 10 years but if I removed a hub and sent them pictures and measurements they'd be able to tell me what parts I need. I sent them the info and this is the list of parts they sent me...
PE1101 is the part number to the bearing kit ( see below )
BEARING KIT 1-1/16″[UFP STYLE]
Kit Includes:
Part Description QTY
PE1400 BEARING 1-1/16″ [44649] 2
PE1710 RACE 1″ OR 1-1/16″ [44610] 2
PE2015 1-1/16″SEAL [UFP] [198-138] 1
PH2012 COTTER PIN 1/8″X1-1/4″[UFP AXLE] 1
I can buy all those parts in the UK except the PE2015 1-1/16" SEAL [UFP] [198-138] seals. The seals are an odd size at 1.98" OD and 1.38" ID and I can't even find any info on how wide the seals are. I think maybe the seals are an odd size in all dimensions so UFP / Dexter Group could have the monopoly in supply of replacement components to match the axles etc they sold the trailer manufacturers. It seems my best bet to make sure I'm buying the correct seals would be to buy the UFP / Dexter Group seals they listed but MagicTilt parts, UFP / Dexter Group and none of the dealers I've contacted so far have been willing to sell to me in the UK.
That same link again... https://magictiltparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=72
8 Of those ideally but 6 would suffice.
The reason why I want 8 is because the trailer has 4 wheels, I'm not going to change the bearings yet but want to clean and regrease them which means removing the rear bearings which means removing the rear seal, it's very likely the rear seals will be damaged during removal. So that's 4 seals I need even though I'm not changing the bearings yet. I'll buy 2 sets of bearings in the UK to keep as spares but I'll need 2 spare seals to go with the spare bearings, so now we're up to a total of 6, but I might as well buy 2 extra seals while I'm at it since they're difficult to get hold of in the UK and they're only $4 each.
If there's someone in the US happy to do it the idea is I send them money to cover buyng 8 of those seals, shipping to them, shipping from them to me in the UK and the cost of a padded envelope. They would probably want to open the package the supplier sent to them and put in a new padded envelope to satisfy themselves it is just 8 axle seals and not illegal stuff they'd be forwarding to me.
I understand if nobody is up for it, in which case I'll ask my daughter-in-law's aunt who lives in Louisianna to do it for me. The reason I'm asking here first is because she's not familiar with vehicle / trailer parts and because she might feel obligated if I ask and not say if she wasnt comfortable with it, while there might be people on this forum who are more familiar with sending small vehicle parts over the pond and wouldn't offer to get involved if they were not comfortable with it.
SImon
It's been a long time since the last update ... I haven't used the P38 much lately, sold the trailer so no heavy towing, for family there is other, ditto for the city, so is left only load and dirt work, a few trips... maybe 5,000 km in the last year, so, with great sadness... time to find another destiny, and make room for a new toy.
So ... it will go to a friend of mine, he really likes it, we went to see a couple of Discos but he prefers the look and ride of the P38, he wants the V8 and ... I'll get back to the subject later! I'm happy anyway, honestly, in 10 years I don't have much to complain about, even though it's the black sheep of the RR models, it's performed more than decently. And it will continue in the family, in a certain sense...
BUT
As usual, every time you make plans, something unexpected happens ... last week I was driving to another friend's house (early, it was 6:30 AM) to do some work together ... I went out, starts up fine, I go from the highway position (it's in a garage that's not very high), immediately onto the ring road, and after a few kilometers I entered the city. I saw the light in the raise flashing more than usual and thought, "Surely some sensor isn't finding the right height." At that moment, I heard the compressor rattling strangely, so I go "Well, it's time." So I continued driving in the "low" position.
A small digression: when I got the vehicle in 2016, I immediately bought a new compressor (Dunlop) and left the old one as a spare, not knowing how much use it had received. The "new" one was dated '14', the existing one '08'. The new one lasted until last year, when it started making ominous noises, so I replaced it with the "old" one. I had already planned to retire the P38, so it was enough to survive until the sale. But as usual, the timeframes are extended, and so ... seeing the four lights flashing, I already knew I was to get the overhaul kit ... ugh.
I arrive at my friend's house, park, jump in his ML, and we go with the trailer to pick up another ML that he's taken as an organ donor for an engine transplant, as well as spare parts.
Once the job was done, we say goodbye, kisses, and hugs, and I head back to the car. It had stopped at "highway" level. I wasn't worried; I knew what was waiting for me. I get in, put the key in, turn the ignition, and... nothing. The starter doesn't turn.
Ignition is on, there's power, I hear the click in the BeCM, but nothing, no sound. It was late, dark, and below freezing (we're in the usual winter ice age, in the Balkans). Shit... what to do?
Hi all,
I was a member ages ago but it didn't seem to recognise me when i logged in hence the newbie date. Gilbertd you kindly came round mine near Stansted years ago with your Nanocom to clear my faults (on the car that is)
Anyway hopefully this is a simple one. I got out of the car at the weekend and shut the door behind me and locked it with the fob. what I hadn't realised was the door was only on the first latch so i pushed it fully home. Now the door wont open, all the other doors unlock OK.
When I press the fob the knobs spring up but go straight back down, i've tried pulling on the handle during this process but it wont budge. I guess its now under pressure and as it hasn't released all 4 doors goes straight into lock mode.
I've tried with the engine running and also the battery disconnected, turning the key whilst pressing the fob and trying to open from the inside. all to no avail. Gut feeling its a mechanical not an electrical issue, any ideas what to try next. Thanks.
Saw a guy on Facebook who got it to work.
Hi,
had some vibrations in the drivetrain, traced it down to the front universal joint having to be replaced (btw. who in hell designed the rear flange of the front propeller shaft to be behind the crossmember, making the task unbelievably, annoyingly long). Changed the universal joint, checked all others, they were fine.
Now, only some weeks later, again vibrations and the same (new) UV has play again, much more than the last time !! And the rear one of the front shaft too !!
How can that happen so fast ? Did I do something wrong ? Checked RAVE but they do not cover that change. They were filled with grease allright.
Only thing that comes to mind is that I was driving a lot in snow in these weeks, so a lot of ABS and traction control, does that bring unwanted, destoying vibrations into the drive train that kill the UVs? Or just shitty quality UVs ? But they should last longer than some weeks....!
Next on the list of minor annoyances is the Cruise control on the 02...
It was fine, then just stopped.
The light on the switch is off, however, I suspect that is a bad bulb.
I do have difficulty connecting to Hella CC with Nano, but when it eventually does, I get to check all functions.
If the dash switch is not pressed, I cannot ever connect, and if I switch dash off whilst reading data, it stops, so I think switch is OK
Speed input valid, and follows actual speed whilst driving.
Brake light shows ON when pressed.
Wheel buttons show proper response.
Vacuum lines are good, and I swapped in a known good vac pump/ diaphragm module.
Swapped in the ECU from the 99, which is the same part number. No difference.
What I cannot get to change is the "Brake / Clutch switch" status. It stays reporting "Pressed" no mater how I manipulate the
CC switch on the pedal.
So, I have "Cruise Status" DISABLED showing on line one of the inputs screen.
Cruise is "SET" in Becm settings
Anything else to check? I will remove cruise control brake switch next and test on the bench.
As an aside, Oddly, the CC on the 99 is duff as well at the moment. Nano reads same for it as well. Dash switch on 99 does light up.
It is as difficult to connect to with the Nano as the 02.
The reason for this question is that I am going to be driving from Oregon to Southern California next week and planning to stop at as many breakers as I can that have P38s......
So far, 2. A 96 and a 98. And that's from 21 breakers!! Getting scarce!
I am after a differential for the front axle of my 02. ( And a handful of other odds and sods)
Don't need it yet, but wanted to get one as there are fewer and fewer P38s coming up in breakers yards.
So, is a 4.6 1998 differential a 4 pin and if I have a choice, would a front axle be in better condition than the rear?
Any other parts I should have on the shelf? I'm thinking transfer case?
With any kind of luck, I will be able to power up the becm and use nano to pull up the mileage.. I'm good with anything under 150k miles.
Cheers!
When my front propshaft snapped, the car would no longer go into park.
I’m a visual learner so unless I physically see what needs adjusting, I won’t know. Is it the cable that needs adjusting, or the XYZ switch?
If it’s the cable, what do I do? https://ebay.us/m/SAhzw4
If it’s the XYZ switch, is this hidden/what to adjust? - https://ebay.us/m/jhB24x
TIA.
As the title says. How the heck can a blend motor short to positive when it is mounted onto a pcb
which is encased in plastic, then screwed to a plastic box?
I have had an entertaining day chasing my Right hand blend motor shorted to ground issue.....
Removed, tested, cleaned, replaced. Same error.
Tried 3 different, known good HVAC heads. Same problem.
Swapped in a used replacement. Problem went away! Only to reappear as "Potentiometer feedback circuit failed" (or something like that)
Put in a 3rd B/M after testing, cleaning, and re testing. This one faulted with Motor shorted to positive.
Took the motor out of the one with Pot failed error, and put it in the one with Motor shorted issue.
Got motor shorted error on this one.
I am thinking now that the caps on the B/M PCB are the issue as they will die with age.
How else could stray current trigger a fault?
Tomorrows job will be to remove these caps and see what is happening.
I am sure they are there to filter the noise from the brushed motor, Worth a try...
I will source replacements and try that if no joy.
If Marty was around, I am sure he would have a better plan.
I am open to suggestions.
I will report back tomorrow......
According to JLR Classic parts anyway. Presumably as it ceased production in 2016, it has now been out of production for 10 years so they are now offering parts via the JLR site https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/
As above really, our 2002 Vogue SE is in need of a new rear bumper as the metal work behind it has rotted out.
Irritating really as there's no rust on the rest of the car but hey ho!
If anyone has a rear bumper with good metalwork on it then please let me know :) Ours is body colour but I believe the non body coloured ones can be smoothed and painted.
Don't mind travelling for a good one.
Thanks,
David.
happy new year to all at the pub, wishing all a good year and happy times.
I purchased my P38 with 80W/2 Autobeam branded H4 LED bulbs installed. One bulb has now expired.
Upon checking online, there’s various LED bulbs across various power outputs. Although skeptical of the specifications sellers list for their bulbs, I’ve found one that is 100W for each bulb. Apart from potentially blinding other users, would this fry anything?
My rear left passenger brake has worn out, and the disc has also become damaged. The right side is fine, so I do suspect a seized calliper.
Having never done such a job before, do I need to bleed the system (having the other half press the brake pedal a few times, before I connect the hose back up)?
Seems a simple job but want to be certain.
Tackling another job (will check RAVE when home). My front propshaft snapped (maybe a seized VC). Now, my front differential is making noises - confirmed by a 4x4 mechanic. (I’ve done the tests for a seized VC, all good) So, I’d want to change the oil to see if that helps.
Anyway, I digress. It seems fairly simple. Is this correct?
Oil - 1.6L of 75w90
Syringe
Oil pan + magnet for any metal
Do I need new plugs?
TIA.