The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse


Thor reving high and slow to drop.

My 4.6thor has started to rev high on start up and is very slow to drop down revs when driving. Only thing obvious is the throttle body is weeping coolant slightly. Could this be the problem? If it is should I just replace throttle body heater or entire assembly? (I do have a complete spare car for parts)

Intermittend no drive - Gems V8 Auto

Hi @all, a fellow enthusiast has probs with his 97 P38 with the 4HP24EH gearbox. Sometimes in the last days the car had either lost drive (neither forward, nor reverse) while driving or from startup. No messages, just no drive. No mechanical sounds he says. Oil level is fine and correct checked. And it recovers mystically self and then he can drive again. Gear selection works, as lever moves and gear indicator in the message centre are corresponding. Transfer box can be switched between high and low. Now we are a bit lost, where to start next steps for researching the cause ... any hints re greatly appreciated!
best regards

Dasboard removal.

Hi, I would like to ask how difficult, in real life experience, is it to remove the dashboard display unit, in a UK [RHD] vehicle.

I believe that there are 4 Phillips screws holding up a plastic panel under the steering wheel but then there is a metal frame inside the dashboard cavity. Some people have said to remove the metal frame, but it is a real pain both to remove the bolts and to re-locate it when re-assembling. Other people have suggested just loosening the bolts a bit, but don't remove completely.

Again, I believe that the dashboard display is held in by 4 screws, and the unit should pull out over the steering wheel cover. Am I correct in this.

Lastly, do I need to disconnect the battery before doing this, I suppose it makes sense to do so.

Any help/suggestions much appreciated.



I'm finally back on my Viair upgrade.

There's no room for it on the small ledge inboard of the EAS housing. I'm going to mount it remotely on the firewall and run a 6mm tube into the housing. Extending the wiring is trivial.

Can anyone tell me the correct name for the little brass ring INSIDE the little blue pipe we connect to the compressor? I know it's not an olive - wrong shape, it has a shoulder. More like a top hat. Is it a ferrule?

Thor running poor

Looking for a bit of a pointer in the right direction please….

My 2000 Thor has started running very poor on petrol particularly when cold but also when hot too. It can be almost cutting out when cold and no response to throttle now and then, I think I can hear popping fro exhaust when it’s playing up too.

When hot it’s sounding like it’s misfiring but nanocom says not, it’s running “lumpy”. The car shakes gently.

It runs perfectly on LPG. It also runs perfectly when I reset engine adaptations.

I get p0172 bank 1 mixture adaptation factor few signal too low and p0175 bank 2 as well.

Clearing makes no difference.

Today though resetting adaptations has made no difference….

I’ve changed the MAF for a new genuine Bosch one. Initially I thought it fixed it as it was ok for a while.

I also put a bottle of injector cleaner thru.

It has 2 new coil packs, new leads, new plugs, fresh oil, new air filter,

Where shall I look next? I have nanocom but don’t really understand the numbers!

Using a Nanocom.

Hi, I would like to ask for some advice/instruction from members who have a good knowledge of using a Nanocom.

I have the known message about ABS/Traction [control] Failure fault on the dashboard. I finally decided to buy a Nanocom, and I would like to ask where I would find the section on the Nanocom that deals with the ABS/Traction Failure ?

I know that I need to go to "R Rover P38" - "EDC", but then the next menu lists two types of what I presume are the values for ABS systems, Wabco C and Wabco D.

Where would I go at this point ? Perhaps someone could tell me if there are specific values to be aware of, or will Nanocom just report a fault as "Fault" somewhere ?


Factory Mud Flap Fitting

My P38 was never fitted with mudflaps but I've now managed to source 4 genuine ones in good condition, sadly no fixings. I'd like to keep my P38 moderately standard. Do LR sell fixing kits separately or could anyone recommend what aftermarket screw work best?

Diesel fuelling 'Hiccups'

In brief my P38 is now running (mostly) very well on a replacement engine with about 120k on it. Engine was in a few days before a big trip to the Isle of Mull last August, and it performed faultlessly until the way home when it stuttered and died, Nanocom showed a fuelling issue fault logged, it started straight away and appeared to run well so we continued. All in all it happened a handful of times on the remainder of the journey.... not always bringing us to a stop, mostly it cleared and picked up again. I put it down to dirty fuel, put some Redex in the system and changed the new filter for a clean one. Since then it happened only a couple of times on local runs and I subsequently did a trip to Stonehaven near Aberdeen without any trouble at all. Cured I thought........... no!

Happened again yesterday and today on local runs, yesterday I was down to 1/4 tank (hoping the price would go down!) but now I have filled up and it still happened.

In tank sender/pump unit isn't that old... filter is very fresh.... am I just being unlucky with diesel or does it indicate some other problem? Any thoughts or previous experience of similar appreciated.

Deflated EAS requiring jacking up?

I'm just looking for confirmation.

Saw a thread on dead EAS where someone jacked up the rear axle to access height and the system recovered. The hypothesis is that some cars go so far out of range when deflated the ECU throws in the towel.

Any grain of truth to this?

SRS Removal Without Battery Disconnection

I want to work on the steering wheel buttons and cassette. Is there any way to remove the airbag without disconnecting the battery? I've had key problems and don't want the hassle.

Also, is there a way to test the cassette? None of my controls for cruise, ICE, etc. are working.

for sale

hi guys sadly I've had to put my old girl up for sale on social media she up for. spares or repair I just don't have time to fix her up properly be shame but would be nice if it was kept on the road
it's a 2.5td on a W plate got it up for 1200 ono with spare engine from older mode and other spares
would any of yous be interested in it ?
ball joint radius arm bushes have been done
Injector pump pump leaks have got seal kit (spare engine has pump with it)
sadly no mot as it been stood up for a year only advisorys on last mot was oil leak cover for seat belt clasp missing and near side fro the drag link ball joints has slight play
and it still on air

Thor MAF Nanocom

My MAF was diagnosed as faulty during an LPG tune up… it read 20 and didn’t change.

I have another MAF from my breaker which reads various figures on Nanocom, however my question is what ought it be reading? I want to know if this one is good or bad before laying out on a brand new one.

Vehicle currently pretty lumpy idle on petrol hot or cold which LPG guy said could be dirty injectors.


suddenly takes time to fire up

I had to disconnent the fuel rail when I was installing the LPG system and since I put everything back together again, the engine will take quite some cranking to fire up (on fuel).
Before it was instant. If I leave the key in ignition a couple of seconds it it much better, but still worse than before. Feels like the fuel rail is empty at startup.
I checked for fuel leaks at the rail but found none.
Did I miss something while re-assembling the rail ?
Is there a non-return-valve that can break ?
And do I need a special fuel pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure at the schrader valve or can I take an air gauge...?!?
Any hints are appreciated,
EDIT: I just remembered that there seems to be quite a pressure build-up in the fuel tank, when I remove the filler cap there is a strong blow of air from the tank for several seconds...came up at a similar time, maybe it is related...?

Slack drive train

While having the P38 on axle stands yesterday so I could grease her nipples I noticed some slack between the rear prop and the transmission is this normal?

phucking feasants

I hit one on the way to work on Friday. On a narrow bit of road with the estate wall on one side and a verge on the other, the stupid creature decided to take off and try to fly away over the wall. There was oncoming traffic so apart from a bit of braking there wasn't a lot I could do. Impact was on the left headlight which is now wobbly and the main beam bulb has failed/throws a warning.


Day off tomorrow, I'll have to see what needs to be replaced. The glass in the headlight is fine, but I suspect the mountings are toast.

New member, new P38 owner.

Greetings to all from Yorkshire.
I write to introduce myself, this is my first offering.
A couple of months ago I bought a 1999, diesel DHSE with 222,000 miles on it. (Quote from the guy I bought it from: "Eeee, there's more works on it than doesn't". Hmmmm).
Shortly after getting it I needed a zebra connector for the Hevac. While speaking to the zebra guy in Spalding, he told me of this Forum. Wow. A game-changer. Up until then I believed I was on my own with the P38's foibles. It was an eye-opener to read the posts. Such in-depth knowledge, offered freely by selfless enthusiasts, is not only refreshing, but confidence-boosting. Suddenly, I'm not on my own... Thankyou all for that. (I'm still laughing at "Heart of gold, nerves of steel..." - What is the YCHJCYA2PDTHFH Club ?).
Jobs I knew abought when I bought the P38:
"King-pin" ball joints,
PS oil leak (near the box, not necessarily from the box),
Injector pump leak,
Hot starting,
Shockers & bump stops,
Front calipers (pads binding),
Tensioner - aux drive belt,
Auto gearbox - 'tired/lifeless',
Mirrors not adjusting.
Although I'm not at the mechanical level as many of you, I was an HGV mechanic for twenty years, so half-competent.
Vehicles I've had started in 1967 with an Austin Champ, then a Ford GPW (their version of the Willys GP), many LR's including a self-built 3.9 V8 Auto and a couple of Lightweights, a Haflinger, three Classic RR's, a P38 (sold fifteen years ago - the electrics beat me). Presently a 1994 300Tdi LR 90.
On the recommendation of Phil in Spalding, and backed up by this Forum, I bought a Nanocom. Although I've used it for the first time this morning - it knows more about me than I know about it.
Having started to de-pimp the P38, I've removed the side-steps, and the 'hoops' from the wrap-around bull bar. Does anyone know the part numbers of the two brackets which the bull bar mounts to (the ones that sit over the front bumper)?
If I remove the driving lights from the A-frame, will a 'bulb failure' message be generated?
Doubtless I'll be in touch again.
Once more, I'm chuffed to have found this Forum.
My best to you all,

ABS Intercept Controller

I'm going to use this thread to just dump information as I gather it, and perhaps think out loud about what I'm busy with. Chime in if you have anything to add, please!
Also, all information here is possibly correct, possibly not. Use it at your own risk! (especially because what I do here might interfere with the vehicles ability to stop)

2001 4.6 HSE Thor.

1) Develop a controller that will allow me to intercept and correct the speed signal from the ABS controller to the BECM to correct for different diameter tires.
2) Have a way to disable ABS at the push of a button without interfering with the working of the traction control.

P38 GEMS Engine ECU permanent immobiliser removal. No emulator required.

Hi all.
Following on from the conversation with DaveW on Bolt's thread about my Thor emulators I have been looking into this infamous F-Out box for the GEMS engine ECU.
I must admit, I didn't find a lot of information aside from the technical bulletin out there, but I thought I'd have a bash at replicating one.
I am pleased to say that after a few false starts I have successfully been able to reproduce said item so now the GEMS ECU no longer requires an emulator if running standalone or with a problematic BECM.
Demonstration of the outcome on my youtube channel, which I have linked to below.


Hope this may be of help to some.

Pure Highway 400

Having had my Clarion radio repaired by Clarion UK it works ok all but the blank screen. I was thinking of replacing the radio but came across the pure highway 400 and wondered if anybody had one or similar and are they any good?

Dead EAS

This is a weird one.

Just switched the valve block in Sooz' car. We also refurbed the air dryer to get rid of the powder and cleaned the pipes.

Her compressor had died so we reconditioned and refitted it But it wouldn't run even when we used a jumper in the relay. We swapped in the compressor from my car and that worked fine. BUT... it never stops running, the system won't pressurise. It won't even rise from the bump stops to Access.

Since the new valve block is from eBay with an X8R kit fitted it's an unknown quantity.

We've made the classic error of changing so many things in one go we have no idea where the point of failure is. Have a Nanocom but no clue what to look for.

I've sprayed everything except the bottom air dryer collet with leak detector. Nothing. Can't feel any air leak by hand.