Years ago I questioned if only 20 out of the 100 UK H&Hs had TVs. Since then I've been building a register. As of today I believe I've tracked all 20 down. (I've based my evidence on the correct VHS players in the centre console, correct TVs with leather surrounds and correct remote controls and headphones) not aftermarket systems. On my register I've only located 31 H&H in total. So I still question the '20' figure. I've cross checked my vehicals with their original registration date, mileages etc etc. If you have one with TVs feel free to private message and I'll see what information I have on yours.
Came back last night using all unlit country lanes. My, the lights are awful!
Is there a way to improve this?
My P38 has heated seats which do not work.
When I switch them on I can hear a relay clicking under the dash so I assume wiring on that side is all okay. Is it a common problem that these fail?
The remainder of the car is in very good condition and apart from the satnav everything works!
Now that winter is upon us, almost, I would like to fix this if I can. I assume that it may well be the heating elements that have failed. Is this a common fault or could it be something else?
Does anyone know of an available instrument cluster bevel for 2002 p38?
2002 Range Rover Rhino
A few months ago I had undertrsys so I went to fit them, there was no holes so I cabled tied them in place and bonded with fibreglass with intention of using bolts etc but forgot to go back to it and I have MOT tomorrow my question is if there secure and defiantly not moving or likely to cone adrift will they be MOT failure
since owning the car she's had issues with LPG it cuts in "when it feels like it" and she runs superb on the stuff..
However the issue is the Majority of the time she doesn't want to switch over, the button on my dash just flashes like a MOFO..
It cut in a few days ago for an entire journey up the M5 I happened to look over at the LPG and it had switched over.
For the first time in ages!
I've already shorted the temp sensor on the Reducer and I've checked the coil/solenoid thing on the tank, the only one I haven't look at yet is the one of the reducer...
If i run her on gas I can shut her off to fill up and it'll switch right back over, however if I leave it for over a day it is a lottery whether it works or not!!
She does run well on the stuff, i'd argue better than on petrol!
I wonder what it will go for? 4.0 Bordeaux with LPG and looks quite tidy.
My spares truck has “working” EAS it the extent that when the truck is being driven all is good. When you park it up for the night you come back to it next morning and the rear has risen to off road height plus ... and the front sunk to access mode and sometime it has also risen to off road height..
I haven’t got time to look at sorting it at the moment, that will be a Christmas job. However, I know you can swap out the timer relay to stop the auto leveling function from working when parked up.
My question is, looking at the timer relay, it is a 5 pin base with the additional pin for the timer. If I replace it with a standard 5 pin relay (like a green one from under the bonnet type) am I looking for a 5 pin resistor type or 5 pin non resistor type?
Answers on a post card from those that know please.
after having some issues with the EAS system on my 2000 P38 i came to this site to try to find a fix.
a quick bit of searching and reading and i decided a rebuild/refresh to the EAS Valve Block and Compressor was in order.
i had a spare EAS Valve Block and Compressor sitting around and using the resources found here and a few other choice places, i was able to rebuild both with the x8r O-ring kit. the rebuild/refresh was surprisingly easy and went well. oddly enough, or perhaps not, both had been rebuilt at least one time previously.
i didn't notice anything untoward on the Valve Block but the Compressor had an obviously torn and damaged piston seal. i replaced every gasket and O-ring on both.
the rebuilt compressor filled the empty air tank to 150 psi in about eight minutes and shortly after that had the Rover sitting comfortably at normal drive height.
i'll be purchasing another x8r kit and will be rebuilding the EAS Valve Block and Compressor that came out of the RR in the next month or so to have spares to swap in. i have an extra EAS box, so i'm planning on rebuilding and then installing the Block and Compressor in the EAS box. that way if and when any issues come up i can just swap the freshly rebuilt box in.
after doing a quite a bit of reading and browsing some Youtube videos, thanks Storey, and then actually taking apart the Valve Block i realized that the system isn't that complex and shouldn't be too much of an issue to maintain.
thanks to everyone on this site who has posted info and experience about these great trucks.
and, i don't know who Zebedee is but, he can keep the coil springs. i love the air ride.
Hi folks. I need to change one of the sidelight bulbs on the Duchess. I can find the back of the sidelight easy enough but it doesn't seem to want to shift. Is there a trick to it? I've tried some wiggling and general messing about but I'm getting very strong Brittle Plastic vibes and don't want to cause a mess ahead of an MOT tomorrow.
Any ideas please?
When fixing passengers side blend motor earlier and refitting airbag the blue cable pulled out of the red plug, I didn't notice and started car, its all reconnected now but I have a hard airbag fault on dash and I can see SRS light pulsing, when you start the car the light goes out for split second then back on hardly quick enough to notice its off, I'm wondering is it there until error cleared with diagnostics or is it likely there is still a fault
I'm trying to sort reverse light issue but car getting MOT on Monday if I havnt sorted issue by then and remove reverse light bulbs I know it won't fail for them not working but is thevbulb out warnings on dashboard a failure for reverse bulbs?
Does any one have a set, source or part number for the plastic covers that clip on over the exposed bolts that hold the seat belts to the B and C posts?
They are black in color and the only part number I van get from inside them is EWR10004XXX.
Broke 3 of the sh1ts taking them off.....
Keep getting an abs/traction fault message and lights on dash. Plug in nanocom and it reports no faults with abs...
The only thing that shows faults is either Passenger seat or occasionally a RHF height sensor...
I was on the road to Tarrington today when a nice looking red P38 coming the other way gave a wave!
Same happened yesterday with a green and a blue one!
Made me grin i'm not gonna lie..
You don't see that with other land rovers, not even my D2!
Anyone else have this with other P38s?
Or at least doesn't know it's left from it's right. I'm aware that it misreports ABS sensors as wrong but discovered a different one today. Fitted a Marty zebra strip to a HEVAC to get all of the display working and then set about checking why it had the book showing. Checking the faults and it showed RH blower as faulty, looking at the input values, it showed 0 as the feedback from the RH blower. So the blower was pulled out, the motor checked and the controller swapped for a known good one. Only to find it made no difference, still got the book showing. Figured this needed further investigation so decided to check the HEVAC before putting the console back together. Display checked fine (as expected) and then went on to check all the buttons. Poking the LH Temp down button and the Nano reported RH temp down, LH temp up showed RH temp up, RH temp down showed it as LH as did the RH up. So it has got them the wrong way round, what about the blowers? As the panel was still off, while the blower was running, disconnected the thin ground wire and the blower stopped and it went very quite. LH blower wasn't running and there was nothing wrong with the RH one at all. Found the problem with the LH blower, both now working perfectly and no book showing but had it told me it was the LH one in the first place I'd have saved an hour in pulling and checking the RH one.
I think I need a new Door Latch assembly. I sometimes get the above message, even when the door is closed. If I open and reclose the door, the message always goes away. I had this a couple of years ago, but I sprayed the micro switch area of the latch with contact cleaner, and the fault went away for a couple of years. Now it's back. Last time I went through Marty's latch tests, but because it's intermittent, it passes. It's probably time to replace it(?) I seem to remember that someone had an MG P/N that was identical, but cheaper. The P/N I come up with (RH door, LHD, VIN# VA35----) is FQJ103240. They're around 200GBP, so I don't want to replace it unnecessarily.
Standard head unit (non nav) with HK sound. Is an Aux in of any kind possible? Tape deck dead, CD deck dead and getting fed up of covid on the radio!!!
When I bought my massive white/blue elephant a few years ago I felt a great paranoia about how unreliable these P38's were known to be..
Over the past few months I've been replacing components on the almost daily basis "no joke" as it seems if I replace one thing something immediately falls right the hell off..
A few weeks ago She plummeted to the bumpstops due to a bad compressor, no biggie I thought so a rebuilt unit was fitted...
Literally 2 days later another "beep beep" EAS fault and it turned out I needed to replace the valveblock O rings due to a massive leak emerging from one of my O rings lol so I did that and she was fine for another week until I get to my current issue!
Which I hope to be fixed tomorra when a new sensor comes!
I won't mention the suspension bushes that disintegrated or the headliner that dropped when i had the sunroof open and filled the car with orange dust that got into my eyes and throat!
So while snot sneezing and tearing up like a right bastard, I was blind - good times...
The alternator and all the idlers failed..
Blend motors went to shit..
Sunroof pissed water in "fixed"
The list goes on
pollen filters leaking "fixed"
Rear calliper's that seized, and a pad that flew out and rendered the rear left caliper inoperative so I had to drive home with 1 working caliper.
Exhaust blow "fixed"
Battery failed straight after I replaced the suspension.....
I seem to be bonding with this thing the more it breaks the more I like it!
A great distraction, I don't even get mad when it breaks!
Perhaps I've gone mad..
Everyone that knows me frequently remarks that it is cursed!
Maybe it is supernatural!
Back to reality.
My hevac book symbol is on and after testing everything the passengers side is cols only so I'm assuming that's motor near passengers airbag do it got me wondering can it be done without removing dash and just the airbag?