Had a dipped beam bulb blow on the way home this evening so I need a new one.
Halfords and Autobulbsdirect are telling me the dipped beam is a single filament H7 but I was sure it's a two filament H4. I'm sure it does both dipped and main beam with an additional main beam H7.
It's too cold and dark and wet for me to go look at it right now...anyone able to confirm for me?
This is my first Land Rover. Through over 45 years of restoring/wrenching/restoring old German and Italian car I have finally got my steam up to own a P38- my favorite Range Rover. I had been able to resist the P38 call all these years because I had enough pain with the cars I was passionate about- but many friends experiences and a good number of Land Rover reviews--- warned me off. But then I saw my first Holland and Holland. Yes- a P38 with just a lot more makeup- but it tipped me toward owning. But years of resistance helped me pass on the two H&H's which came up for sale this year. After passing on the last one I could not stop kicking myself- so I googled H&H and another one like magic popped up. And like with many of my past machines- I paid the same for an H&H which needs all kind of attention--- as I could have paid for a really nice one. I bought it from a gentleman who had it for less than a month and owns a number of Land Rovers. I know-big clue. But the story was he had one car too many and wife says she wants a new car before he owns another project. Good story. My assumption is that he bought it from photos, got it, discovered that it was much worse conditioned then led to believe--and passed it on to me with vague assurances that it was in great shape. I am often the "last Tag" guy. But-while I get a bit pissed each time this happens- I figure it is a project and I like projects.
I just cannot let this orphan H&H be parted out or screwed up anymore then it already is- so I am taking it on and hoping for the best.
I have gotten into it- the O ring leak was obvious--passenger side so wet that the wire tray alongside the side of the passenger's seat (LHD) was filled with coolant. So I did the O ring job the last two days-- and even though someone had gotten into this before judging from all of the access holes cut all over the place - it was still hard without cutting/removing the ducting. Had to try every combination of swivels and 1/4" drives I had in my toolbox to install the screw into the hole. Removing was easy-just could not line up the screw to the hole. I will remember not to remove it next time.
When I got it off the flatbed and started it up I noticed a lot of condensation. I was a cold 35F so condensation is not abnormal at startup- especially from cars which have not been started for a few weeks. Took it for a 10-mile jaunt before I put it in the garage-- and the condensation cleared off in a mile according to my friend who followed me. But it returned while idling. Headgaskets? Hoses are not rock hard when running, the plugs do not look steam cleaned, temp stayed at 12-- so I am thinking 50/50 if I need head gaskets.
And--- I have pulled out all of the wood trim to refinish. This special wood (thinking Claro Walnut Burl from the looks) is so sun cracked it is just short of having to be pulled off and new veneer applied. Called an expert who would finish -but just like any other P38 since they are not sure what the wood used. Maybe never seen an H&H before. Anyway--they are talking $3500 if re-veneer. Not gonna happen. So I am sanding away and taking a crack at it.
OK - spoke enough-- but you get the idea-- orphan restoration. We will see if gets the best of me.
My P38 has been a adventure this last year but with my new job taking me to and from Portsmouth each week I’ve had to lay her up for a year and a half.
Great news though my dad is taking her on and is planning a full off body restoration on her! He has already restored a RR classic and bought a wrecked P38 when I bought mine but the chassis had some major damage.
So she is off on monday. I know your not supposed to sell stuff on the forums but I have a nanocom now I would rather give one of you a bargain than sell it on to a random person. It’s a 4.6 Thor model
Can’t thank you guys enough for the help and encouragement over the last year, and I’ve directed my dad to the site when he is settled. So hopefully there will be a build thread of a full body off restoration!
Slightly off topic for here, but got to be worth a shot!
Been looking at an overheating/over-pressuring TD5 engine on a 1999 Disco - It seems to be putting oil into the coolant, but not the other way round. Was initially suspected to be the head gasket, but it appears the td5 has an oil cooler mounted on the side of the block that has 2 o rings that over time stop sealing effectively, this allows the oil to seep out into the coolant.
Trouble is, I can't seem to find a part number or size for these o rings - Microcat doesn't show them as a seperate part, I've arrowed the ones in question in the attached screenshot.
Anyone know of either a specification for them, or a part number? The one labelled 8 is ERR7098, but this only shows a qty of 1, suggesting its not that?
Since replacing my head gaskets I've had an issue with misfiring (causing a heatshield fire), revs sticking and a high idle.
The misfire cleared itself up - I never found what was causing it as when I came back to the car to take a look it was running fine.
The sticking revs was really bad straight after the rebuild. Initially they would stick/hold at whatever RPM I revved up to, occasionally continuing to rise slowly on their own. I'd have to turn the engine off to correct this.
After a little while the engine would rev up and the revs would drop on their own - only to get stuck at around 2K RPM. Again, the only way I found to stop this was to turn the engine off. Sometimes the RPM would drop quickly from whatever I revved up to down to 2K where it would "snag" and then drop more slowly.
When I was finally able to drive it I found that it was holding revs well enough on it's own to chug along at 30mph without needing the accelerator pedal. Not slowing down on it's own and not speeding up. Using the brakes would slow the car down and the engine revs seemed fine once I came to a stop.
Now, after having it on the road for a few days the rev holding seems to have settled down and it's not sticking at any RPM but I have noticed that my idle RPM seems high. It seems to vary between 1,100RPM and 800RPM. It's not bouncing between these values, it's just sitting smoothly at different points in this range at any given time I look at it. It never gets as low as the 660RPM that RAVE says it should be.
I've had a brief chat with Sloth about it as the symptoms seemed to match an old thread of his that I found online. He said he fixed his by moving the throttle cable routing. My cable seems to be routed well and as far as I can see the cable is moving freely. The throttle body seems to be closing fully when the throttle pedal is released - the cables are returning to rest against the stop properly. I tried to check the throttle body by removing the intake pipe with the engine running but the engine immediately died. I guess the sudden change in airflow was just too much for it cope with. I think my symptoms are now a bit different to his.
Given that I lack a Nanocom to investigate with, can anyone suggest things for me to try to diagnose this issue?
I've seen a few threads online (mostly Disco 2 related, in America) saying that they've reset the adaptive values and that's sorted high idle issues. Is this only possible with a Nanocom?
Now I know it usually gets a bad rap and is blamed for everything from the neighbours budgie dying downwards, but it seems the BeCM is actually a pretty clever little beastie. Last weekend I had to tow this to just north of Toulouse
Not only is it 9 feet tall and 6 feet wide, so acts as a braking parachute in a headwind, it was also well loaded so almost at it's maximum weight of 3.5 Tonnes. The weekend coincided with Storm Diana hitting the south of England and most of France too which meant two things, the channel crossing was going to be rough and once the other side I'd have a hell of a headwind. Also the route includes some pretty serious hills both up and down. So, rather than risk being rammed up the back by an empty artic who may not realise the speed differential while I was slogging up a hill in the dark, I put a magnetic 55W halogen amber beacon on one side of the trailer. The trailer has a junction box near the back where all the wiring connects so it was easy enough to connect the beacon to one of the sidelight circuits in there.
About 20 miles from Dover, I get a beep from the dash and the message centre comes up with RH Tail Light Bulb Blown but a few minutes later I notice that the LH side marker lights and beacon had gone out on the trailer. Switched the lights off and back on again and everything came back on. Seems that the extra load of the beacon on one sidelight circuit had been seen, eventually, by the BeCM as a short circuit bulb which would only happen if the bulb had blown so it had switched that circuit off to prevent the possibility of further damage in lieu of there being a fuse in the sidelight circuit. When I next stopped I ran a wire from the beacon to the ignition switched supply in the boot but it did prove that the trailer lights were wired back to front so the LH and RH circuits were crossed I was more impressed with the way the BeCM cuts power to a circuit it detects a problem on, so not so dumb as many seem to think it is.
Incidentally, I took the picture in my avatar on the way back but what was most interesting was the difference between the run there, against the wind with the trailer and coming back with the wind behind me and no trailer. Trip out, average speed 43 mph at 12mpg, coming back, average speed 67mph at 17.2mpg. Seems aerodynamics, or a lack of them, make a hell of a difference......
Anyone know how the pumps are assembled/disassembled?
Wondering what mine looks like inside and if it can be rebuilt cheaply as a spare. The bearings and impeller look and feel absolutely fine so hopefully it's just a seal that needs replacing.
At a guess the wheel the pulley bolts to is pressed or threaded on to the shaft which holds everything else in?
I'm putting this under Electrickery but it's just a guess...
Recently, with the colder weather, the Duchess has decided to be a little bitch to start when cold. She used to start absolutely immediately, hot or cold, but now she can take repeated attempts to start. The starter/battery seem perfectly healthy and the engine cranks over nice and quickly. Eventually she'll start on a few cylinders and then the rest cut in over 2-3 seconds.
Where should I start looking?
Working on a 2.5 just now that stalls easily setting off in first-high. Nanocom shows modulation up at 95% so I'm guessing the pump static timing needs a wee tweak?
Does that sound about right, or am I holding the wrong end of the stick?
I've seen mention online of people tweaking the pump position whilst watching nanocom, anyone tried that?
What can I say, bought a set , put one in to compare against my 100w xenon bulb, the difference is unbelievable, it’s like the xenon are candles in a jar, £47, but worth it,,
Soo, the P38 has been laid up for a bit with a knackered exhaust. Finally got it sorted last week, and took it to work last Wednesday. All good, till i went to go home, and it did a repeat of the "harry potter incident". (Shortly after buying the P38 we drove it to the harry potter thing in Watford (from scotland), and after spending many hours there and leaving the place at 10pm, the bloody thing wouldnt unlock, i didnt have a clue what was going on (nor had the EKA code) and left the wife slightly pissed off!)
I avoid using the remote, because the copy battery door is a very loose fit, and often turns a bit while in my pocket, resulting in the key code being reset. Furthermore, the car has the crappy old battery-flattener reciever, which i was using for a while with the ariel unplugged and eventually just unplugged the whole thing to save any hassle. As a secondary point i would really like a working second key/remote, has anyone got to the bottom of that yet?
However in the two years i've had it, it has occasionally done this unresponsive thing and its usually fixed simply by unlocking and relocking it, and sure enough on wednesday that did infact work, albeit after a few goes. Used it on saturday with no problems. Today however it was booked into the exhaust place again for some rectification work (one tiny silencer is insufficient! :P) and same thing happened again. Except this time, no amount of turning the key was making any difference. I pulled the battery, reconnected, tried key again, nothing, tried EKA, nothing.
After much pissing around i took the door card off, and unplugged the lock, got the meter and belled out the wires. From what i could see everything worked. The only question mark was the "key turned" switch didnt work first time i tried, but then started working immediately after. Maybe a bad connection on the meter leads, not 100% sure. I plugged it all back in, reconnected the battery, and unlocked the door, and normal operation was resumed.
Clearly, i need to fix this properly!
Theres much chat about refurb latches from Marty, but his website suggests those are no longer available. Theres also some recent chat about MGTF parts, but i'm not actually clear on what needs done. Hopefully someone can tell me what the best approach is...
If i buy a RH LHD MGTF latch, i presume it fits the P38 door, but does not have the third microswitch that the P38 requires? Can this microswitch be sourced easily? Anyone have a part number for a suitable microswitch? Or am i better just fitting new switches to the P38 latch? The idea of getting a whole new shiney latch certainly appeals.
I would also like to sort the door handle. The handle itself is loose, and has the usual sticking stuff going on, so i guess i will pull it apart and try and sort all that out at the same time.
Lastly, can anyone think of any other issue that might be at play here?
I have been searching fleabay and local scrappers but unable to locate a set of front mud guards for the P38 part number STC8535.
Anyone have a set that they would like to sell please send me message with price...
Before he designed theP38 heater core location, with particular attention to the accessibility to said units “O” rings, he worked at Chrysler.
Try and understand his last video presentation before departing for Solihull, UK.....
As Spock would say... “facinating”
The rear wheel cover is held open by a metal bar that slots into a metal “holder” that’s screwed into the cargo floor of the P38. The holder measures about 2” x 4” and is fairly obvious when you open the cover for the spare wheel. I need that part of anyone has one.
On the rear bumper of the P38 there are two round holes covered by two caps located slightly above the tow hitch receiver. I need four of these caps if anyone has any.
Obviously I will pay for any and all parts.
Fresh off the back of replacing the head gaskets to fix one coolant leak and a week after a clean MOT where no coolant was leaking the car has sprung another leak!
Bottom right hand side of the radiator and the pipes below that are soaked and it's leaving a large puddle under the car. Over night the level in the header tank has dropped about two inches.
The thermostat appears dry in this image so I don't think it's leaking from there.
The view from the top shows no leak from there and the (brand new) top hose is dry.
So...what lives on that side of the radiator and is located somewhere above the thermostat but below the top hose that could leak coolant?
I'm really hoping no one says there's nothing and it must be a split radiator :(
While I'm repairing my nudge bar, I could do with a measurement of the depth available for spot lights - ie the distance between the front edge and the radiator grille with the bar fitted to the vehicle. I know the LR Safari 5000 lights fit - but I want to fit something else, but they're a bit deeper.
If anyone can oblige that would be much appreciated :)
Pic for attention:
Much like the mud guards... these things are horrendous for rusting under the foam/rubber and quickly becoming beyond repair.
Saw a post on FB, frickley off road center, looks like could be a fun day out sometime next year.
Unless of course someone knows of others..
Is it worth us having a thread to share any good deals we find for things Range Rover related? Tools, parts, mods etc.
I don't have any to share yet (at work with very restricted internet access) has anyone else found anything useful?
After my Hanook battery suddenly with no warning died on me, I stuck a new one in, I haven’t used the car for 4 days so thought as it’s covered in ice I’ll fire it up, it’s midnight , I opened the door and it fired straight away, went to shut the door and the frigging lock must be frozen, it won’t latch, I presume it’s full of crap,
Has anyone else encountered this ? If so do I remove the latch and clean, or just shoot a can of brake cleaner into it, I’ve ratchet strapped the front doors together, so it’s secure till later when it’s light.