I have the original head unit in my 2001 P38.
It is hooked up to a parrot hands-free kit and works very well. I am able to playback music through the parrot as well as using it as a hands-free.
As of a couple of days ago, switch on the radio and nothing. Occasionally I will get a thump, thump from the rear bass speaker, but nothing else.
Not entirely sure if this should go under the oily bits of the forum but couldn't see where else to put it.
I've removed the headlining from my car and taken off the covering material then brushed off the old foam. The surface has remained tacky.
Do I need to neutralise the old glue or can I spray new glue over it.
If I need to remove the old glue, what should I use?
All advice gratefully received.
My 4.6 Vogue failed the MoT Test today because the fog light telltale bulb has blown. Obviously, I'll be replacing everything in the instrument cluster with LEDs. Googling has revealed nothing because step-by-step instructions for instrument cluster removal seem to have disappeared from certain major sources. Baffling because they would be tiny, even with pics. Obv. I have 10 days to avoid a full re-test.
Can it be done without taking the whole dash out? I found a YouTube video for that but don't want to do it unnecessarily.
Planning to buy this set unless someone warns me otherwise:
ABS and traction control lights are on with the associated messages coming up on the dash.
Nanocom says 0 volts on the right hand front sensor, 5 volts on the other three. As I recall it the Nanocom correctly identifies the right hand front sensor but mixes up some of the others.
Multimeter says 0.640 Meg Ohms impedance for right hand front sensor which is way too high.
Left hand front reads 1.125 K Ohms which is near enough book value so looks like my meter and technique are honest.
Obviously the sensor is toast but does the 0 volt reading from the Nanocom imply other faults?
The Britpart replacement, made by OEM, is around £120 from the usual suppliers. Some offer an Allmakes version for under £30. Given that its pretty easy to change a sensor is the cheapy worth the risk. The dead one was a Britpart installed maybe 5 years ago.
Looking round for prices the Island 4x4 site seems to be down at the moment.
I posted a thread about having door latch problems a couple of weeks ago, and that I thought that I had sorted them out, but today the driver's side door latch still seems to be an issue.
The latch didn't seem to relatch after the inside door pull handle is used. So when getting out of the car I would pull the handle and open the door but when I push the door closed the door just bounces back open, and I have to pull the inner handle back as far as possible and then let it spring back. Then the door will close properly.
It appears that the latch is being held in the "open" condition after I let go of the inner pull handle. It never happens with the outside handle, only the inner one.
There isn't any adjustment on the cable between the handle and the latch, and I fitted a new cable and a new latch last year so I am a bit perplexed by this problem
I took out the existing latch and gave it a good spray with a lubricant similar to WD40 and it was working perfectly but today it was acting the bollix again. I am beginning to wonder whether I need to buy yet another new latch, which I really don't want to do considering the cost of them. it just seems that when the inner handle pulls the arm on the latch it isn't springing back but there is no adjustment anywhere in the latch.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Can’t source this elsewhere, and it’s a bit boring having to open the door from the passenger seat.
I was reading through a few threads about problems with latches going faulty and I noticed that Richard [GilbertD] mentioned that the door latches fitted to the MG F are the same as fitted to a 2001 P38.
I wonder, are these a straight swap ? But having asked the question here I see that they don't appear to be available any more. I'd be interested to find out whether they can still be bought. I will look elsewhere on the wobbly wonder web and see what comes up. I wouldn't be surprised if they are available, in LHD form, in the US.
UPDATE: I looked up the part numbers and, indeed, they are LHD car part numbers. So I think that probably answers the question - that they are NLA.
So today I go up in the loft and come across 3 valve blocks 🙈. How hard is it to test them before I put them up for sale, or do I just sell sold as seen, I’m pretty sure they all work, as I wouldn’t of bought any that weren’t working
Hi, I had to strip the driver's door to fit a new window regulator, refit the inside door window seal, and "service" the door latch. This meant pulling off the original inner door water shedder, or membrane. I have a new one to refit, but I need to remove the black gloop that held on the original one.
I am interested to know if there is a quick and easy way to break down the gloop to get it off. Would white spirit work, or maybe rubbing alcohol ? I have to lift off the largest part of it with a chisel or a scraper, but I would like to get a clean panel before I fit the new membrane.
Any suggestions welcomed :)
I've gotta remove the LPG off of my P38 one thing i'm looking at is the wiring...
The ECU is behind the battery where the GEMS ecu is and the wiring goes here there and everywhere, there is a skinny wire that goes to the fuse box for example..
i'm tempted to to just cut through that and any awkward wires?
any issues with doing that do you all think?
I ordered a new fob from JLR and I’m trying to get my BECM ready to programme. On the Nanocom, I go BECM, Settings, Alarm…it says EKA Enabled. Then I go BECM, Utility, I get the page Odometer/reset, then it says “Disabled”, EKA then a blank square. I can go into the blank square and write a 4 digit code, which will show up in the previously blank square, but if I close and reopen the window it is a blank square again. (I’m pretty sure I need EKA working to sync my new fob). What am I doing wrong?
another problem which is gettings worse as the rainy season in northern germany is gettings stronger:
The headlining (re-clothed by be about 1 year ago) is wet at the front left (driver) corner, from door side of A-pillat upte the middle where the lamp is. So the whole strip behind the sunvisor. Sometimes dry (when weather good) sometimes damp, or when really raining, soaking wet with occasional drips.
I checked the sunroof drain, it are free of debris, transport water and is tightly attached. All tested.
I lifted up the cover of the foor rack attachment points, all good there.
I stuck the rubber door seal (in the corner between A-Pillar and roof) which one sees when door open back onto the metal body.
Couls it be a bead sealing of the windscreen ? I have no other idea.
Here some photos I just made looseing the headliner in that corner:
a sidekick of my EAS problems is this:
Nanocom tells me this:
in EAS/Inputs Menu: it does not say that the driver (LH) door opens. All others are recorded correctly. Therefore EAS continues to level with that door open.
in BECM/Inputs Menu: it records correctly that the driver door is opened (12V->GND). All others too. But the interior lights do not go on. But with the other doors.
How can that be?
Microswitch in door must be OK. And EAS ECU gets that info from the BECM, but the information is lost....?
What's the idea of this place then? A calmer, more reasoned place than rr.net?
Anyway me and father are serial P38 botherers, please see current fleet below:
The flagship, a 4.6 HSE auto
2.5 DT auto
2.5 DT manual
2.5 DSE manual (such a new arrival it hasn't actually arrived yet)
My wife's 01 Vogue keeps cutting out after running for about 30 minutes.
The battery is only a few months old and the vehicle has been used regularly with a bit of a gap over Christmas.
Garage's Autologic is spitting out 4 codes:
108 Continuous Power Supply Interruption
148 Interface Immobiliser
107 ECU Power Supply
A5H4/165 Generic take to Dealer
Crank Position Sensor shows okay.
Googling turns up bad ground and faulty fuse box as possible causes of 108 - and possibly the others? I've asked them to check.
We're really buggered here. Garage does plenty of RRs/LRs but they've not seen this set of symptoms and it's intermittent, albeit reproducable.
I last drove Rangie on 21st December and it worked flawlessly. Parked up as normal and then yesterday I came to drive it and the fob would not unlock it so I resorted to the key which unlocked the drivers door only, no central locking ‘unlock’. Key in ignition and absolutely nothing, nada, zip. The battery voltage was 1.7V!!! My less than one year old Hankook MF3-1000 battery is probably toast … sob.
Had to put on my very old traditional, unsophisticated battery charger to get it to take any charge whatsoever. Once it took a bit of charge it was put on life support ‘recovery’ mode of a more sophisticated and ‘intelligent’ C-Tek charger. It is now fully charged but is out of the vehicle and voltage showing good but no idea of capacity yet.
Fitted a back up battery I have that is kept charged and after overcoming the usual annoyance of the alarm going off all looked normal until trying to start the engine. Nothing, no click from any relay or solenoid. Hmmm! Decided to measure the current draw and with everything checked as being off it was draining at ~2A. The BeCM seemed to go to sleep correctly at the 2 minute mark but the drain then sat at a consistent 600mA!
I removed the starter motor relay (16) and bench checked it and all OK. Decided to short the relay contacts in the fuse box without ignition on to check stater motor and nothing, no power at the relay. Pulled fuse 40 and it was completely blown! Replaced fuse and shorted the relay again expecting trouble but the solenoid/starter motor span the engine over fine. Replaced the relay and she started fine, no warning lamps and alternator charging the battery fine. Shut down and restarted a few more times and all OK. Checked the battery drain again and all checked out with BeCM going to sleep and drain at ~30mA.
I can only think the starter solenoid threw a bit of a wobbly and after starting the car for the last time on 21st December then fried the fuse but managed to put the starter into a state where it was continually consuming current. Shorting the starter relay shook the solenoid back to its senses and all is now fine . . . but for how long?
Is my starter on the way out? What mechanism put the starter into a state where it was continually drawing ~1.5A? Is there any other explanation for this odd behaviour? Will my Hankook battery recover its masculinity? Answers on a postcard please!
...that could help me by plugging it into my Thor 4.0 P38 that I rescued earlier this year please?
A friend has a Nanocom but it's gone faulty.
I've got it through a MoT and running quite well but would like to put it on a Nanocom to look at, amongst other things, what the issue is with the heater. I'm guessing blend motors but I understand they can be manipulated on the Nanocom to see if they are working before i dive in
as it states the nano will not connect to the ecm but it will connect to the becm. this is a friend's car he has asked to fix air bag issue but i cannot connect to read the fault . where is the best place to start .
My EAS is giving me problems and I don´t know how to proceed further. I would be great if I could get some hints....I have read about every manual, document tand internet post there is for the EAS but I am at a loss now....
Since I have the car (2 years) it will rise to high without me commanding it. Sometimes every couple of minutes, sometimes once a month. Also when the inhibit switch is on. I could usually tell it to go down again, It would also give me faults (usually "pressure switch open") with the same regularity. I have a Nanocom.
I removed both multi-connectors behind the left and right kick panels and soldered them. They still look dry and fine. No change in behaviour.
Car will not lose height overnight, but will often be too low at rear left (new airbag) when I park. I replaced both left airbags when I got the car, of the remaining ones 1 looks like new, the other OK.
Since a couple of months the usual fault changed to "invalid fault code" which I can clear but will come back regularly, sometimes doing nothing, sometimes leading to soft fault, sometimes to hard fault. Usually when the fault comes the car will be high at the back and low at the front...
Compressor was loud for some time but is quiet again now and works well (fills empty system in under 5 minutes). The green/purple cable leading to the compressor was burnt at the connector but still worked, fixed that.
I just refurbished the valve block but that made no difference other than now the rear left, which was usually to low when i park, is now too high.
Other new observations:
Compressor will run even when engine is off.
Height will change even when door is open ! That is new. But Nanocom confirms that door is open, so no lock switch fault...
I can switch on/off all valves with nanocom and hear them engage.
All that comes to my mind now would be the ECU or the driver pack.....any ideas or further questions would be very welcome before I lose faith in this wonderful car....
I found this picture on another website. As it seems that there are a couple of ex-police cars on here then maybe someone here now owns these two cars.