It won't have altered the fuel mapping but it will now be correcting for something that didn't need correcting. If the map was calibrated with the 1.1 bar and 1 lambda set, then it will be correct for those settings. Changing the settings back won't sort the problem immediately, it'll still need to be driven to allow it to re-adjust back to how it was.
You could just reload the initial configuration files from when you first connected the software to the LPG ECU (assuming you saved the config files) which would put the gas system back to what it was before you started changing stuff and running AutoCal etc, BUT what Gilbertd and myself say above is key. Run it only on petrol until your trims etc have sorted themselves out.
Fiddle with the LPG once everything else is right. For now, forget you've even got gas installed or you're just going to go round in circles and vanish up your own exhaust pipe!
EDIT- Gilbertd beat me to the button this time...
Above advice is sound, I was tempted not to add anything in case it added to confusion but I think this worth saying...
As someone wrote above, if you saved your config before changing anything you could just load the saved config file and all should be well. There can be exceptions to this, though... E.g. Could have a situation where fixing a long term issue highlights other problems - Suppose the engine was running open loop due to problem code(s) due to (say) failed lambda probes. In open loop fuel trims are not applied, so if LPG calibration was wrong the engine could have been running 20% lean on petrol and 20% rich on LPG. The engine might run OKish running 20% lean on petrol or running 20% rich on LPG, in which case switching between fuels wouldn't reveal any further drive-ability problems. But, if you fix the probes and closed loop running resumes, then you run on petrol, the fuel trim needed to correct the 20% lean running on petrol is learned/applied so now the engine runs great on petrol. But then if you switched to LPG the engine would at first get a 40% rich mixture giving poor drive-ability, but eventually the incorrect LPG calibration might steer fuel trims back to -20% and now the engine might run great on LPG, but if you then switch back to petrol it will be 40% lean. I know this reads an unlikely set of circumstances, after all we would expect the LPG system to have been calibrated correctly in the first place and fuel trims on petrol not to be so extreme, but I've seen similar sets of circumstances so often this type of scenario seemed worth a mention. Other issues can be revealed after fixing an underlying issue too, such as worn LPG injectors giving some cylinders a far greater dose of LPG than others. What should be drawn from this is that when you get it running properly on petrol, make sure you check LPG calibration as soon as you run on LPG.
If you didn't save your config file but you only changed reference pressure, changing reference pressure back to what it was should do the same. If however you changed one of a few other things such as type of injectors fitted, that might have changed the map back to the default map figures for the last type of injectors you selected
Simon.
Man, I thought that you would have been bombing around running sweet as a nut on LPG by now.
All of the previous posts give good advice and LPGC offers a good example of how "fixing a long term issue highlights other problems".
As i've previously said, my car had 2 leaky petrol injectors. Simon managed to set the lpg up to compensate and although it ran great, we knew that there was a problem. Compensating the mix and forgetting about it was just sticking a bandage on it for the short term. As soon as i fixed the leaky petrol injectors, i ran into problems with the lpg running awful. It didn't have to be compensated anymore and needed to be setup again because i fixed the underlying problem with the car. The petrol side of things ran wonderful.
Your car will run like crap for a while whilst the fuel trims are being reset. It may seem like it's getting worse but persevere. All of a sudden it will begin to improve and before you know it, your petrol side will be sorted. Then run a new calibration for the lpg. That'll take less than 5 minutes.
You can't stick the roof on before you build the walls!
Yes I understand - wonderful advice from people who really know but I have been a bit lazy and having got it running on LPG again I was frightened to touch it. It is still set on the 1.5 press and two lambdas - the only change I made and I have not recalled or remapped anything. Only additional change is the 4 pre-used ignition leads as a test that made a significant difference to the sort of misfiring rough running - just plucking up the energy to change the other four pending ordering a new set from UK. And I took pity on the renting French holiday makers in my neighbours house and spent a hot day rigging my WiFi so they could be on-line - the young people seemed close to death without it !!!
But I have noted carefully all you have said and will refer to it book in hand as I carry on with the set ups. Remember- the Spanish have a word for this - ' Manana ' and having lived here i know why.......
Oh and nothing to do with Range Rovers but it will show you the sort problems I am up against here ! Life can be very difficult ! https://youtu.be/ADj0zz6ScNg
Change the pressure back to 1.1 and one lambda and it will be back to how it was once it's re-calibrated the petrol system. By changing things in software but not making the same changes in the hardware, it's got itself a little confused.
I know its a bit tedious for you helpers but tell me, this screen shot is off my spare computer which I experiment on and the Zavoli software is not and never has been connected to the car. But what if when I had first connected with the laptop I had pressed the 'Reset ECU button' ? Does this change the settings to what happens to be on screen readings at the time or set it back to a sort of delivery state. I may have pressed that in the confusion at the beginning and that would be when the 1.1 pressure setting and one lambda was showing. (which presumably was a first reading )
Also, despite having got the LPG to work again (the loose pressure pipe) and thought all my troubles were over the original problem of poor running has got even worse yesterday - What happens is - start on petrol as usual but, as mentioned, now won't idle till engine speeded up for a few minutes - then set off - changes to gas and running pretty well. After a few hours stopping and starting for shopping and engine bay really hot in Spain sun start my journey up the long steep hills home and it looses power and only just keeps going on low rpm. Yesterday, it stalled and took a while to start again for the last few hundred yards. Didn't have the diagnostics on but you may remember the inlet solenoid had cracked and although I have a new one arriving today had to put it back for the moment ! Is it possible that this is faulty under the high temperatures and causing the lack of power and rough running ? Only happens after engine bay really hot (normal on gauge) and under load to get up hills. Next morning when cold no problem (apart from sluggish start on petrol perhaps due to ECU having set itself to cope ?) .
You really need to leave off the LPG until you've got the idle/misfire sorted on Petrol. Random fuelling isn't good for engines!
Well, you're still attempting to run it on LPG, so all bets are pretty much off.
The petrol trims (and starting, idling etc) will never adjust correctly if you run on LPG with duff calibration. If the cracked LPG solenoid is indeed breaking down under heat then that will cut off gas- either intermittently, giving you the weak mixture or permanently until it cools down.
As for the default settings on LPG software, generally if you change anything you get a prompt to save the old configuration.
Assuming you have been saving your configurations as you've changed stuff, you should be able to load them and see what has altered.
EDIT- beaten to the button by Morat. I was diplomatically trying to find a way of reminding you that the advice on here was to leave LPG alone and run on petrol until that side was sorted.
I must seem as if I'm not paying attention but my excuse is that I thought the petrol side was more or less ok and it could carry a bad ignition lead until new ones come. Just had a message from Tony to say he has broken down in Madrid on way from UK so the new solenoid won't be here today after all. Think I will pop the diagnostics on again and take out the plunger in the solenoid and leave it out in the heat - that will at least show if the solenoid is causing the problem. I don't think I was able to save the original config may have done but wasn't sure how - I notice the saved config only shows in the file list if you select the correct cylinder numbers instead of displaying all configs regardless !
But that Reset ECU button in the screen - what does it reset things to ?
Reset ECU sets everything to factory defaults, all the configuration settings and the fuel map. So if you did hit the reset button, you've royally screwed everything and it will need setting up from scratch BUT NOT UNTIL YOU HAVE RUN ON PETROL ONLY TO LET IT ADAPT. The fact it won't idle on petrol when you first start it shows you have screwed the petrol adaptations as well.
Run solely on petrol, change the leads when they arrive and let it sort itself out on petrol and only then start playing with gas again.
Thanks - will do - how long does it take for petrol to get back in order ? and how do you tell when it is right ?
It needs a bit of varied driving, slow speed, acceleration, deceleration, high speed, etc. You'll know when it's right when it will idle when you first start it and drive as it used to do.
super4 wrote:
Think I will pop the diagnostics on again and take out the plunger in the solenoid and leave it out in the heat - that will at least show if the solenoid is causing the problem.
Please, please, please leave the LPG alone. Switch to petrol only, run on petrol only. You'll never get back to a balanced state on petrol if you even just run it on LPG for a bit to see if it's fixed. The potentially failing solenoid does not come into play when you are running on petrol. No point in playing with it as you've a new one coming. Just fit the new one when it arrives, the new HT leads when they arrive, let the petrol trims settle then address the LPG.
Thanks Gilbert - The Leads and driver for the Zavoli Diagnostics were sent by Tinley Tech on the 16 Jun. After three weeks with nothing in sight I asked Tinley to send some more which took about a week. The originals arrived yesterday - six weeks in post - now I have to post them back - the glories of the EU...... I only wanted to live near Salcombe and poddle about in my dinghy. The bureaucracy here makes it almost impossible to put a little boat in the water - especially if the outboard is more than about 9 horse - original registered paperwork required from manufacturer, insurance etc etc ....and you can't register/import a UK car with LPG ..............
I know all about the EU bureaucracy, a mate lives just outside Nice in France and that is just as bad. He lives 2,000 feet up the side of a mountain and needed something that could do it in all weathers. I found a 2.8 litre Nissan Patrol on LPG over here and bought that on his behalf. He had to insure it as a Nissan 280Z as the petrol Patrol had never been imported into France and the 280Z was the only car using that engine officially imported. As for the LPG, he'd got no chance. He would have had to have the system ripped out and a system approved by the French authorities installed instead. Even then, he'd still have had to insure it as a 280Z though. It came back here and was sold on. As for boats, nothing over 9.9 hp without a licence (sans permis), fortunately, I've got an ICC for inland and offshore for powered craft up to 24m so can legally use his boat or hire one but nobody else can.
super4 wrote:
Thanks - will do - how long does it take for petrol to get back in order ? and how do you tell when it is right ?
Will take 2-3 days to make sure.
You'll know it's right because it won't feel like a bucking mule at idle. Idle should be around 730rpm and it will be smooth as silk. In fact, it should be that nice, you'll wonder if the engine is running at all.
When you've got it to that stage, then and only then can you begin calibrating the lpg.
If you can't get the petrol to this stage, you have underlying problems on the petrol side such as HT Leads, injectors or spark plugs that must be fixed first.
A word on calibrating. Don't switch to lpg and leave it idling while you set yourself up for calibration. Have everything ready to g and get straight on with it. Idling it on a bad lpg configuration with a good petrol configuration will immediately begin to alter the fuel trims again. You'll be back to square one.
Right BlueP - No excuse now - I should be able to report back when it is perfect !