So, I said I'd bought a Nanocom :)

First on the list was Motronic, so I thought I'd start there. There were a LOT of codes, so I cleared them all and ran it again. There were fewer codes the next time but some worrying ones like "Multiple cylinder misfire" and "adaptive values out of range". To be honest, I could feel that through my arse - especially on cold idle on LPG.
So, I switched off the LPG, reset the adaptive values and went for a drive on petrol only.
These are the results.

NANOCOM - MOTRP38.APP - MOTRONIC fault file

P1592 = ROUGH ROAD SIGNAL IMPLAUSIBLE
DRIVE CYCLE A
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL INVALID
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT DOES NOT CAUSE THE
MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

P1000 = LAMBDA SENSOR UPSTREAM
CATALYST BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL INVALID
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT DOES NOT CAUSE THE
MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

P0172 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR FRA
BANK 1 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT DOES NOT CAUSE THE
MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

P0175 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR
FRA BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT DOES NOT CAUSE THE
MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

I'm guessing I need a new O2 sensor, somewhere. Could someone possibly enlighten me as to which one that is? :)
Also, what is the rough road sensor? It sounds more like EAS than Motronic to me, but if you have any hints I'd be grateful.

Or just point me at the relevant section of RAVE, I'm still a complete novice looking round that monster!
Other known faults on the vehicle at the moment:

• ABS/Traction failure on dash - just had a new front left wheel hub after bearing collapse so I'm guessing that sensor might be toast - have yet to code that on the nanocom because it seems to need to be done on the move and I had a 4 yo on board.

• Blend motor failure, not bothered with that yet.

• Non heating heated seats

I've no idea if these are relevant but until I know enough to discard unrelated symptoms I'll list them just in case.

Thanks :)
Miles

I just remembered something else:
When the LPG conversion was done a couple of weeks back the converter said he saw a code which he thought meant the MAF wasn't 100% and making the engine run a bit lean at WoT. There's nothing showing for that on my list but he wasn't using a nanocom and was interpreting from the results he was seeing on a standard OBD2 scanner. (If Gilbert is reading this, it was Simon).

Bank 2 is the RH side as you are sitting in the drivers seat/LH side as you are standing at the front of the vehicle, looking at the engine.

I was having rough running and adaptive problems aswell, and could see in the live data on the Nanocom that my O2's weren't behaving properly. I managed to find some Genuine Land Rover/Bosch ones for £30 each, and that seems to have sorted that out.

MAF can cause problems on the Thor vehicles - and they a) don't seem to take to cleaning very well, and b) don't like aftermarket MAF sensors either as they don't seem to be to the same calibration tolerances that the genuine Bosch ones are.

Rough Road signal is generated by the ABS ECU - this basically sends an alternating +12V/Gnd signal under normal conditions and changes this if the ABS system detects (via the speed sensors) if it thinks you're on rough road, and this just signals it to the engine ECU so it can add extra filtering to the knock sensors (which detect vibration, and are used by the engine ECU to determine if there's a misfire, and where it is).

If you have a dodgy wheel speed sensor, then that could be causing the rough road fault in the engine ECU.

ABS system can be talked to and live data read when the vehicle is stopped, and up to about 5mph. After that it seems to stop talking to diagnostics and you have to reconnect once you've stopped the vehicle. However it will have logged fault codes aswell, which you can read/clear without the vehicle being moving.

Hope that helps a bit...

Marty

Ahh, you caught me pretty much with a can of cleaner in my hand.. I'll leave that as a bad idea then.

The Rough Road signal is fascinating stuff! The guys who invented this vehicle must have thought they were working for NASA! (although it's probably just as well they weren't).

Hmm. I guess it looks like two faults at least. I'll see if I can get some live data from the ABS sensors tomorrow with my wife driving, and have a go at the 02s as well. This logging to SD card lark is pretty darn convenient.

I don't see any ABS codes at the moment, but I haven't actually tried reading it between stopping the vehicle and shutting the engine off. Do they persist?

Thanks for the tips again, Marty. I really appreciate it :)

I'm not sure how much of a self-check/clear the ABS system does on it's codes, or whether it logs it as having having happened on X occasions and comes up if it is/isn't currently present when it's being read.

You won't be able to log live data from the ABS system above 5mph - as it shuts off communications to the outside world. The last time I tried it, Nanocom just came up with a 'Unable to communicate with ECU' error after a little while.

However, you should be able to see the voltages being reported back from the sensors, and the wheel speeds below about 5mph - co if you are just crawling, then you might get some useful live data...

You can try giving the MAF a clean, but my experience of a faulty MAF, cleaning it didn't help :(

Well, I've yet to make a decision on what to do with the Motronic... so I've done some kerb crawling to get some ABS data.
Nanocom is pointing at the Front Left sensor and shouting "WITCH!"

NANOCOM - WABD.APP - WABCO ABS D type faults file

10-07
FRONT LEFT SENSOR - NO OUTPUT

I've also got a small live data file in .csv format which would probably look horrible on here, so here's a link for anyone who's interested. Lotsa Numbers best to right click/save as to open in Excel etc.

The final thing for is I can't get the damn fob to sync again. I've put new batteries in it, the red light comes on when I press either button and I even drove out of the village into a steep sided valley and switched my phone to P38 mode. No Joy. I've tried a lot of fob synch rituals, some for the driver's door lock and some for the ignition switch but so far the black magic has yet to work.

I'd say the Front/Left sensor is your problem then... easy, and cheap enough to replace!

Fob... if the passive immobiliser is turned off in the BECM, then it won't sync in the ignition. If you have a dodgy microswitch in the drivers door latch, then it probably won't sync in the door either...

I had one person who was in touch with me about the issue, and the problem was his RF receiver was faulty - so door latch, fob etc were all working fine but just would not sync. He bought one of the cheap MK I receivers just to test and it worked first time.

If you're down to see me, or at the summer camp, then I have a load of spare older receivers kicking about that we can try, even if it's just to eliminate that...

AAHHHHHHH
Marty strikes again :)
I turned the immobiliser off when I first entered the EKA via Nanocom. I was worried the battery would go flat again while the car was waiting for the garage to do the wheel bearing. I didn't realise that would inhibit the resync.
I'll reenable it now and see how it goes.
Genius!

See, that's what happens when you play with things you don't understand. For that reason I've restricted my use of my Nanocom to looking at things and clearing faults, I don't dare change anything in case I bugger something else up. It ain't broke so I'm not going to try to fix it......

As for the ABS sensor, it might just be that it isn't pushed home fully. Get a block of wood and a hammer, sit the block of wood on the sensor and hit it with the hammer to push the sensor further into the hub. That may well be all it needs as it's recently been apart.

Turning off the passive immobiliser does save a lot of headaches if you have a key fob that doesn't work and just have to use the key in the door - because aswell as disabling the coil around the ignition, it stops it form timing out an re-immobilising the vehicle when the key is removed from the ignition, or after a time out period. (Then the coil is usually used to resend a mobilisation code and allow you to start the engine again... which is the problem if the fob doesn't work!)

If it doesn't resync with the immobiliser turned back on, then I'd turn it back off and just use the key for the moment :)

As Gilbertd mentions on the sensor - it might just need pushing home a bit more, but they can get damaged when they are removed (the wiring can go a bit brittle - as I found on mine when I unclipped it at one point!) Luckily they are pretty cheap to replace and aftermarket ones do actually work... probably one of the few things that it's not fussy on!

@Marty - you win again. It synched right up on the first trip after I re-enabled the immobliser. Thank you!

@Gilbertd - you're right of course. I only did it because I read on another forum that it was a wise idea if you're unsure of your battery. I was, and we've only got one key, and the garage had it. I'll definitely be wary of messing with stuff though. I've bricked enough computer gear over the years to be very wary of playing with something like the BCU!

I'll try to reseat the ABS sensor. But if it doesn't do the trick, is OEM the only way to go for these? I'm wary of aftermarket electrical bits, especially sensors, but these should be so simple I'm tempted. Are there any wallet saving options? We're aiming to keep this wagon for the long haul.

Given that it's such a simple component, if you want to be very unspendy, I'd go for this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Genuine-Wabco-Front-ABS-Wheel-Sensor-STC2786-441-032-7590-/331829563183?hash=item4d42954f2f:g:3hMAAOSwfcVUCXlF. Used that breakers a few times now. Their parts are always clean and fast post. The one non working bit I got from them was refunded next day after 3 weeks (with me!) without any quibbling. <br>
If you want to go new, there's a range of prices. These are indicative: https://www.lrdirect.com/STC2786-Sensor-Abs-New-Rr-Front/?

To be fair, ABS sensors are about the one thing you can get aftermarket versions of and they'll usually work. Though a mate of mine bought his P38 which had new sensors all round and they didn't work fully - he pilled one out and found it was a tiny bit shorter in length than the original P38 ones, and thus wasn't giving a proper signal.... so maybe not the cheapest ones!

OK, some progress :)
The ABS sensor was indeed just not fully home. It is now - and the TC and ABS warnings have ceased. The ABS works! Hurrah!

The O2 has been replaced with a Bosch part and that code has gone. Strangely the adaptive values out of range codes still return, even after resetting the adaptive values and clearing the codes. I'm wondering if there's a vacuum leak somewhere or maybe the MAF is suspect after all....

In other news, the EAS has stopped automatically dropping at >50mph and returning when you slow down. It does what you tell it to if you press the EAS Inhibit button but it just stays on the middle mode if you leave it alone.

Getting better though :)

Marty and Gilbert are the P38 Gods as far as I am concerned, Morat. They're always worth listening to and taking their advice and help.

Morat wrote:

In other news, the EAS has stopped automatically dropping at >50mph and returning when you slow down. It does what you tell it to if you press the EAS Inhibit button but it just stays on the middle mode if you leave it alone.

Huh? That doesn't make a lot of sense. If the Inhibit button is pressed, it will stay where it is and won't drop after 30 seconds at more than 50 mph and rise back up again at more than 30 seconds at under 35 mph, it will just stay at whatever height it was at. It's recommended that you use it when towing so it always stays at the correct height needed to keep the trailer level. Also with it pressed in, you can manually select motorway height which you can't do with it out. With the Inhibit not pressed, you can use the rocker to select access, normal and high but not motorway, with it pressed, you can select them all. If it isn't dropping automatically when it should, then it might be that the Inhibit switch has gone short circuit so the ECU thinks it is in when it isn't (although that should cause the switch light to come on too to show you it's pressed in).

OldShep56 wrote:

Marty and Gilbert are the P38 Gods as far as I am concerned, Morat. They're always worth listening to and taking their advice and help.

No question about that!

Gilbertd wrote:

Morat wrote:

In other news, the EAS has stopped automatically dropping at >50mph and returning when you slow down. It does what you tell it to if you press the EAS Inhibit button but it just stays on the middle mode if you leave it alone.

Huh? That doesn't make a lot of sense. If the Inhibit button is pressed, it will stay where it is and won't drop after 30 seconds at more than 50 mph and rise back up again at more than 30 seconds at under 35 mph, it will just stay at whatever height it was at. It's recommended that you use it when towing so it always stays at the correct height needed to keep the trailer level. Also with it pressed in, you can manually select motorway height which you can't do with it out. With the Inhibit not pressed, you can use the rocker to select access, normal and high but not motorway, with it pressed, you can select them all. If it isn't dropping automatically when it should, then it might be that the Inhibit switch has gone short circuit so the ECU thinks it is in when it isn't (although that should cause the switch light to come on too to show you it's pressed in).

Gilbert, I'll retest and see make sure of what's going on. What I can be sure of is that the EAS doesn't seem to automatically switch between motorway and normal (or back again) even with EAS Inhibit out.