Morat wrote:
Very nice work. Did you clay it first or go straight in with the G3?
Bonnet was the worst. Could feel loads of bits when I ran my hand over it. I hand sanded with 5000 grit instead of claybar then went on to the G3. Rest of car I just did with G3 straight off the bat unless there were any deeper imperfections which again I hand sanded but with 2000 grit.
Gilbertd wrote:
I've obviously missed a couple of steps. After mine had been resprayed I left it for a couple of weeks, went over it with G3 on a power polisher and then Mer (by hand). It looked so good, it's only ever been washed since then. Are you saying it wants wax on top of the Mer?
Mer is great to put on. It requires no work and always leaves a great finish. However, it is only a polish which is a very very mild form of cutting compound. It'll look great but offers zero protection from bugs, dirt, finger marks and most importantly the sun (although not too much of an issue in England). Wax is a sealing coat which is literally a layer of wax spread on top of the paintwork and as Sloth says makes the colour pop. A piece of Oak looks great but if you stick some wax or varnish on it, it brings out the grain and makes it look great. Get yourself some Farecla Wax. £12 for a litre bottle and will last you forever. It's as easy to put on as Mer. Wipe it on, let it haze, buff it off. Zero elbow grease required. I've only got one coat on at the moment but i'll be applying a couple more. It should last for about 3 months. When you noticed a mark or mucky spot on a waxed car, buff it off with a clean cloth and it'll look good as new again as the mark is on the wax and not the paintwork.
2000 P38 Vogue 4.6 on LPG