Nano's £390 direct from BBS at the moment. Price does vary due (I imagine) to currency variations.
Like Marty, my VSE has the security configured as nature intended, including Passive and 2 working fobs (#1 and #2). Did have to spend a bit of time/ money getting it back to standard though- 1 fob rebuild, drivers door latch (thanks Marty), 3rd Gen receiver plus putting back the original BECM, lockset etc.
Only thing I've disabled/ snipped is Superlocking motors as I work around the doors.

Couldn't have done it without Nano though.

Orangebean wrote:

Only thing I've disabled/ snipped is Superlocking motors as I work around the doors.

Oh ye of little faith. My Superlocking is still enabled and I use it virtually every time I lock the car. Although we did discover at last years Summer Camp that it isn't working on the drivers door.

Gilbertd wrote:

Orangebean wrote:

Only thing I've disabled/ snipped is Superlocking motors as I work around the doors.

Oh ye of little faith. My Superlocking is still enabled and I use it virtually every time I lock the car. Although we did discover at last years Summer Camp that it isn't working on the drivers door.

---

I can't see that Superlocking (latches) brings much to the party apart from the ability to hold unwilling captives in the car and the potential opportunity to stand on your head as you destroy the door cards to get to a failed Superlocked latch.
With the motor feed cut, you still get volumetric protection in Superlock mode,

I am home tomorrow morning so will attempt to do eka code again, I yhink the biggest part of the car in my head is everything that I have done and she still locks me out, just comes up on dash "key code lock out" and again inthe back of .y mind she went flat in a week, rf disconected bew battery new fuse box red light on gear stick gos out as it should after 2 to 3 minutes, she is charged at the minute so i have a chance.
I love this car i seriously do but I am so clpse to having her all good, she looks and drives like new because of the work I have done in the last year.
If I keep her I want nanocom, I also need a drivers door latch if anyone has one for sale or even nonocom ?
If anyone can help me out I am happy to pay them for there time and would be good to meet some of you.
If I habe her next year I will be at summer camp or is there one before ?

Like I said, keycode lockout only comes up when the battery is first connected and it will go out after 30 minutes on a later car to be replaced with the request for the EKA. While Keycode lockout is displayed it won't do anything, it won't accept the EKA, it won't let you connect with a Nanocom (or any other diagnostic), you just have to be patient.

No idea why it is flattening the battery if the BeCM is going to sleep unless you have another fault that is waking it up regularly or the battery is just not well. The battery on the Ascot went flat after standing for 10 days so I checked the current draw and once everything was sleeping it was drawing around 18mA. I swapped the Halfrauds battery that was on it for the Bosch one that was on the SE and it hasn't gone flat since. So unless you have a known decent battery, I'd be inclined to change it.

Nanocom prices do vary as Colin is based in Cyprus so they are priced in Euros. I bought mine pre-Brexit vote so the exchange rate was much better and it was a couple of quid over £300. Now we are down to damn near 1:1, that's made them pricey.

Superlocking is just a waste of time, and services little purpose other than to frustrate the owner when it inevitably does lock you out of one or more doors...

I activate 'superlocking' everytime I lock up, but as OB has done, I've now neutered the superlocking in every door. Prior to doing so I've already had one door try to shut me out - thankfully locking/unlocking several times released it, and out came the wire cutters. I just want the volumetric sensors working, like they should do by default. But that's another one of LR's great moments of wisdom.

If you're not able to get the EKA entered in the morning, let me know and I'll see if I can pop down in the evening.

Sloth wrote:

Superlocking is just a waste of time, and services little purpose other than to frustrate the owner when it inevitably does lock you out of one or more doors...

I activate 'superlocking' everytime I lock up, but as OB has done, I've now neutered the superlocking in every door. Prior to doing so I've already had one door try to shut me out - thankfully locking/unlocking several times released it, and out came the wire cutters. I just want the volumetric sensors working, like they should do by default. But that's another one of LR's great moments of wisdom.

If you're not able to get the EKA entered in the morning, let me know and I'll see if I can pop down in the evening.

Thank you mate I will do and as soon as I know I will post, such a nice car and everything has been done to her I would be very reluctant to part with her and still the best 4x4 for off road pull, use to take my last one up the plains and one say a disco 4 was showimg off in the mud, army trained off road driver as well and my p38 followed him everywhere much to his suprise !

Morning guys.
I returned home and connected her up and left her for 40 minutes to be safe, still no response from remote key and key code lockout displayed.
I tried to enter the EKA code agin ( tried before got nowhere and its the right code ) and she superlocked herself ! a word begining with S sounding like brick came strait out my mouth ! I opened the driver door and found that all others were superlocked !!! NO ! getting worse in my mind, I again tried the EKA and no tried again and again and in the end it unlocked......................now before I got to excited I placed the key in ignition and slowly turned it and she fired up ! (never done that before ! just joking ) anyway she has been running and I think running better on gas now than before as she seems to have blown some of the cat out of both rear boxes after I gave her a few revs (she has been running rich on LPG on 1 bank like -250 rich so run on petrol for ages stag system ecu I cant read ) on prvious posts you will see that I asked about center box delete which was done and when we opened up the cats one was empty so guess it was stuck in rear boxes and making it push harder thus running richer on gas ??? am I on the right tract here ?
Anyway today she is running .........last week we had her out and the starter motor failed at one stop on our day so that is next (done it once)
I really have done everything to her out of love, she is our family tow car so has to be safe and strong so I have spent loads on it, all new dunlop bags, discs, pads, air conditioning was done and runs ice cold, new coild, TPS (one from GSF failed after 4 weeks !) gearbox, transfer box, comprssor and valve block serviced along with loads loads more and I follow everyones advice on here as it is the best forum for any car that I have come accross.
I want to thank anyone on here that has looked at this and my other posts and everyone that has replied to help I am greatly in appriciation guys, and sloth, thanks mate for saying you would come down and help if needed as in a great way it gave me reasurance that I were going to be ok........sound right ?

Now, is there anyway that I can de activate the keycode EKA thing for future ? or is that wishfull thinking !

Anyone ever gets stuck down my way needs a tow a lift or anything just ask me I am always happy to help you all.

Wishful thinking as far as I'm aware, keep the battery charged and you shouldn't have any problems, obviously with the starter change the last thing you want to do is disconnect the battery, pop the lead off the starter and slide a bit of hose over it, no sparks and no power intruption

dazer2000 wrote:

Now, is there anyway that I can de activate the keycode EKA thing for future ? or is that wishfull thinking !

You can but don't. You can go into the BeCM settings with the Nanocom and change EKA Enabled to EKA Disabled. In theory that means that all you need to do if it is immobilised is lock and unlock it again. However, this assumes that all of the microswitches in the drivers door latch are working properly. If, as I discovered on my Ascot (see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/688-help-now-i-m-really-in-the-sh-t), the key switch microswitch has failed for whatever reason, then you can't unlock it. Or you can unlock it mechanically but not electrically so it doesn't turn the immobiliser off. To add to it, if the keyswitch isn't working everything will appear to be normal while it is locking and unlocking on the fob, but after a flat or disconnected battery, the fob will have lost sync.

You shouldn't still have Keycode Lockout displayed after 40 minutes and while it is, you can't do anything. It should change to engine Immobilised, press remote or enter EKA after 10 minutes on an early car or 30 minutes on a later one.

I am so glad that you guys are here ! I am also looking at changing my drivers door latch as at time the boot refuses to open, I have been told that there are only 2 types is this true and that they can both be adapted ?
PS wanted to wait and reply this morning to see............she started again !

The only difference is the early ones have a socket on the latch itself, whereas the later ones have a flying lead with the socket on it. You can fit a later one on an early car but make sure you tie wrap the excess cable out of harms way but you'd have difficulty fitting an early one as the cable won't be long enough. Your best bet is to wait a couple of weeks until Marty is back home and get one of his refurbed ones with new switches rather than risking using one from a breaker that may be no better than what you already have.

Sound I would rather do that than risk it as not all but some people are happy to sell anything, plus if its a breaker and it dont show up all the time I could be fitting worse than I have.

Yeah get one from Marty - don't waste time with breakers selling 'tested' parts for things like door latches - more often than not they are not tested at all. They just strip vehicles and sell parts with a 30 day warranty hoping for the best.

Realistically a breaker doesn't have the time (or inclination...) to test every specific feature and operation on every part of a vehicle they break, if they even know how. And P38 door latches aren't exactly known for they're stellar reliability.

The best one I had was a 'tested, working' diesel heater from a BMW X5. When it turned up, the coolant passages were totally full of oily sludge - the engine had clearly suffered some catastrophic head gasket or oil cooler failure... on top of which, its not possible to 'test' this diesel heater without proper diagnostics. Unsurprisingly it was locked out with fault codes.

That is something like I have had before, I had a leak in my ZZR rad a few months back, mostly all replacments are (unless you pay more than the bikes worth) made in China these days and cost about £99 shipped but the catch is 2/3/4 ? weeks wait, now some guys on evil bay are selling these rads with 5 days shipping form the UK for £150, 50% mark up same rad, I looked into getting a "good" second hand one to help me through and it was astounding to find worse rads for sale than mine was ! fins bent and missing, mounts rusted off............the list went on, the leak was rigt at the bottom left corner where the fairing had rubbed it so I drained and used chemical metal left to dry for 24 hours then re-filled let it run shut off run again bled it and guess what.....it worked ! well it lasted me still sealed for the 3 weeks it took to get a new one anyway so I won in the end, I know its not RR stuff but it may help to carry some in the tool box, I have a US pro tool box bought brand new 3 shelf and opening lid model ball bearing draws very nice fits all the cars and always have instant "get ya home" gasket and chemical metal in the top, it worked for the bike under alot of pressure and at high RPM (10,500) and it was still sealed when I disposed of it when fitting the new one.
Moto here is...........there is some Cr*p around !

and even if it was tested and found to be fine, how much longer is it going to last? Until I changed the switches in my drivers latch, I would get the dancing locks trick but only in hot weather so during the winter it didn't do it. Something else you are never going to find just by sticking a meter on the leads and checking the switches.

Gilbertd wrote:

and even if it was tested and found to be fine, how much longer is it going to last? Until I changed the switches in my drivers latch, I would get the dancing locks trick but only in hot weather so during the winter it didn't do it. Something else you are never going to find just by sticking a meter on the leads and checking the switches.

Correct, and strange mine does the bouncing locks bit in the heat as well, fine since July I can get the dog out the boot again now !

dazer2000 wrote:

Correct, and strange mine does the bouncing locks bit in the heat as well, fine since July I can get the dog out the boot again now !

So there was your hint. It was warning you of impending doom during the summer, locking you out was just a matter of when not if.......

The biggest worry with bouncing locks is what happens if they decide to bounce and stayed locked when the car is running with the keys in the ignition and you not in the car? Then it is going to do it's self test on the cooling system and let you know how long it can sit at idle before boiling up.

Potato!!
or in my case - TWO Potatos! :)
And maybe a blowing exhaust afterwards :(

Morat wrote:

Potato!!
or in my case - TWO Potatos! :)
And maybe a blowing exhaust afterwards :(

Haha! Sorry :)