Maybe a set of these is what you need :- https://priorart.ip.com/IPCOM/000251024 . Take look at the preview. Sounds good in theory but practice might be different. Dunno if anyone makes them, if its a patent or if its something that has been made and publicised without patenting. Looks fairly trivial to make if you want a bunch. PIA for one or two tho'.

Its been alleged in certain quarters that (repeatably?) lifting a P38 wheels free may slightly unseat the airbags and older airbags lack the squidgyness to go back to fully sealed. Not happened to mine yet.

Clive

Emergency valves on tonight. First opportunity I've had. Inflated each corner to 4 bar. See if I lose any air overnight.

I have a spare block on standby that I've rebuilt this week.

My monies on the diaphragm in the old block.

Where's the best place to get 4 new air springs from?

Asking for a friend. lol.

Island
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/springs-dunlop-isl004-p-629.html
Your friend might like to buy the pins that hold them in as well. It's this one, I think, but check
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/spring-fitting-full-isl003-p-5234.html

Yep. I reckon he might have just bought all that. :-)

No "might" about buying the pins. Just buy and be done with it. Hard enough to get nice new lightly lubricated ones in, especially at the back. Old, crappy, dirty ones make life that much too much harder.

If your not experienced at this do the front ones first with the arch liner removed. Room to move and you can see whats going on. Not a bad idea to get a few of the liner fitting thingies too in case some break. I think I got five or six spares when I did mine and used them.

Allow time to sort out or make a tool for pulling the top pins out at the back. I'm surprised there isn't a "my really effective pulling tool" design floating around on-line. I rooted around and found something in the collection, dammed if I can remember what I used tho'. (40" Snap-On with middle section, but no top, and side cabinet all full with a 4 drawer filing cabinets worth of overspill equals plenty of scope for rooting.)

Forget the "Took me 10 minutes to change a bag stuck on a rock halfway up a mountain with a leatherman multitool" gloat liers. That one comes from the same list as Mr Haynes oft printed "simply remove .... " which must surely be high up on the most effective ever swearword generator phase list. I made the mistake of doing the back ones first. Took a leisurely summer afternoon to do that pair. Everything was stuck tight but it all came apart once I'd figured the right method of persuasion. Under two hours from pulling the bonnet release to do the fronts. Thoughtful amble usually gets me finished faster than the rush headed guys who have to take time out to fix the bits they broke due to hurrying!

Clive

Last time I had to change a bag, it was impaled on a giant Redwood tree in Yosemite National Park. Used just my bare hands and teeth. Took me 10 minutes, 5 of which were searching for my hand cleanser wipes...

lol Clive. Just bought new bags for £224. No way i'm not gonna buy the 6 quid clips.

Real men use pine needles, not wipes. Gotta be Green y'know.

Clive

I've made clips out of welding rod in the past, I know they will go rusty but so do the real things. You can make up a tool to pull the rear top clips out, took me about 4 hours to make though and only worked on one side, the other side wouldn't shift. The alternative method number 1 is to bend the original spring until it snaps off where it goes through the top of the air spring and then use a long thin punch to push the remains out through the other side. Alternative method number 2 is to slide a 1" wood chisel under the clip, then give it a good whack with a club hammer. This chops the top off the air spring and, in theory, it just drops straight out. In practice they never drop straight out as there's going to be a build up of rust where it fits onto the chassis that will hold it in. Thin pry bar between the body and chassis should allow you to lever it out.

The tool I made.

The hooked bit formed by welding the second bit of steel to the bar is then used to hook onto the R clips and pull them out (in theory). The right angle on the other end can then be pushed up the side of the old bag, hooked under the flat plate bit on the top and used to pull it out.

I use an old ratchet strap, poke it in and through using a hacksaw blade, then hook it out and give a good yank, had a pin break once (1st time I did rears) due to rust, got a saw out and cut the top of bag mounting to release. As of late, haven’t changed any bags this year,,

I found I couldn't get the rear bags out of mine no matter what I tried to lever them out with so I drilled two 8mm holes, one above each bag top, and knocked them out with a drift. The front bags took about 25 minutes all in, 10 minutes of which was trying to work out how to align the pin correctly in the gap in the mounting.

I live in fear of failing bags. Luckily mine are new (well, two years old now). It's something I'd like to watch at a Summer Camp one time. If Marty gets over the last one :)

The life span of the Dunlops seems to be around 7 to 9 years, so you've got around 5 years of fear free life ahead of you Morat!
Five Summer Camps too- if that fine tradition keeps going.

I shall be tackling this at the weekend. Nothing like easing into a job though. All 4 at the same time! Any tips on jacking and axle stands and wot not?

Confucius he say: He who does use Axlestand shall become Axlestand.

And that's all I know! sorry.

Morat wrote:

Confucius he say: He who does use Axlestand shall become Axlestand.

---

Confucius was a bit of a twonk then. I use many axlestands, and, last time I looked, I hadn't become one?

For the rears, big trolley jack under the towbar (assuming you've got the factory swan-neck one), for the fronts, same trolley jack under the crossmember across the front beneath the radiator. Axle stands are a bit of a non starter because you've got to lift the body up from the axles so wouldn't normally be tall enough.

I used wood blocks under my axle stands to get them high enough to support each end of the car wheels free using suitable points on the chassis.
Really should get some bigger ones. I guess the 6 tonne, 600 mm / 2 ft max height ones at £30 odd a pair off t'bay would do.

Clive