It's working fine, thanks :)
I'll clean/rebuild the valve block and swap them again as soon as I can.
I'm interested to see what state mine is in.
No rush Morat. My current valve block will last forever- well the one in the black one should. It was a genuine brand new one from LR two years ago when the car was moved back from coils to air.
The blue one, who knows, it's alright at the moment :)
Was there any brass swarf in the dryer unit?
If there is any that made it to the valve block, then I'd expect to see it only through the diaphragm solenoid area - as that's the only bit it goes through before it gets to the dryer - which from memory has the fairly thick filter screens - which should trap the rest.
It may be that none of it escaped from the compressor and into the block - but I wouldn't have wanted to risk it long-term, at least without an inspection first!
No, the dessicant and filters were clean as a whistle. I hope the valve block turns out the same way. I've got the O rings so I'll do that and put it all back together and feel much happier. I might need to change the rear left height sensor as that is the one that seems to read 10mm higher than the rest and sometimes throws an "out of range" error but I can live with that for the moment.
swap height sensors from side to side. should make it good as new as it goes the other way then. Mirror image. I did mine couple of weekends ago on front.
Assuming you can get them off without resorting to an angle grinder.......
Gilbertd wrote:
Assuming you can get them off without resorting to an angle grinder.......
i noticed you'd said about having trouble with them in one of my previous posts. I just undid the two bolts, popped out the arm from the rubber and swapped them. No bother at all. Literally the easiest job I've done on the car.
On every one I've tried to remove, the nut has rusted so much that you can't get a socket to grip on it. When you do get something to grip (Irwin grip in my case) the whole thing rotates and chews up, or rips off, the plastic mounting lug. Admittedly I've never had to touch a front one it's always been rears that I've need to change. Maybe they are more exposed so rust quicker?
i haven't looked at the rears to be honest. fronts have some sort of shield around them. Perhaps better protected. I'll have a go at a rear next time i'm under there. :-)
Just a little wrap up to say THANK YOU to Marty, Orangebean and Blueplasticsoulman who turned this from a disaster into a bit of an adventure. Also thanks to Chris who offered parts too.
BPS has his new replacement valves, and Mr Orange has his valve block back so everything is now sorted. Until next time :)
Also, I've got a spare block (without driver pack) and solenoids lying around if anyone needs any annoying little bits.
Hurrah!
Morat
When this thread pinged up as unread, I thought
"Kinell Morat, not again!"
Well done and happy I could help out
Glad it's all sorted and running again as it should do!
Did you get my email re: door latch Morat?