rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Member
Joined:
Posts: 222

OK, so my P38 has had the tracking out for some time. including before I got it, hence the front right tyre is bald on the inside. Tyres at £100 each got me thinking and I have landed a set of 19" Range Rover Sport 2013 wheels with new Dunlop Winter tyres for a whopping £165! I doesn't come with the spigots or nuts.

I presume that these would be right from eBay...

NOT THE ORIGINAL LINK

or these (BritPart probably no better)

NOT THE ORIGINAL LINK

Edit : Indeed these are the correct size however I went for metal ones instead. You Need 72.6 -70.1 Spigot Rings.

However I am not sure on nuts, I believe the openings for the nuts on the wheels on a RRS are smaller then the P38 so I need a full set of new nuts. The only thing I have found is this..

NOT THE ORIGINAL LINK.

Edit : As the inside edge of the wheel nut opening was flat I needed flat as opposed to chamfered edge nuts. These ones did the job, basically 22mm L322 nuts...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OEM-RANGE-ROVER-L322-ALLOY-WHEEL-NUT-SET-OF-20-RRD500510-LR068126/272573796683?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Is there anyone that can advise what I need. Once I have the wheels on I will get the tracking done and the car looked over.

But again not sure if the nuts will be right.

Photo of old and new,

https://flic.kr/p/23zL9oj

It has solved the wondering problem and handles far better the ride is a little harder but not bad.

Finished...

https://flic.kr/p/22g9jun

Member
Joined:
Posts: 1307

Silly question, but how long will winter tyres last in the summer? Isn't it a bit of a false economy if you end up having to swap the winter tyres for more of an all-year tyre in 6 months or so?

A set of Pirelli Scorpion Zero (only using them for comparison as a lot of RR's came with Scorpions from the factory) tyres in 255/55/R19 is still nearly £140/corner. And by the time you've got spigot rings and wheel nuts, even with £165 for wheels/tyres - you're probably near on the price of 2 1/2 18" tyres as it is.

Regardless - the choice is yours. All I can suggest on spigot rings, is to not go for plastic ones - get metal. I've read on a few forums where the plastic ones have just ended up cracking and either need replacing or can cause weird vibrations, whereas the metal ones hold up better!

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 8081

I took a car in for MoT that was fitted with winter tyres all year round and while it didn't fail the tester did put them on advise and suggested that they were changed. They were not pretty, the softer rubber compound looked like someone had been chewing on them as they didn't like the higher temperatures. That's why in regions where they get lots of bad weather everyone has two sets of wheels, a set with summer or all season tyres (all season in somewhere like the UK rather than somewhere that gets lots of very cold weather and snow) and a separate set with winter tyres.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 222

Well its snowing here! We see the coldest weather from this point of the year usually. Plus I fully expect to have worn these out by April anyway.

Good point on the metal spigot rings.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 2441

Gilbert is right, the way to go is two sets of wheels and winter/summer tyres. At least it is if your seasons are harsh. I did on my BMW so I had two sets and it transformed the car in the snow. On the P38, All Terrain tyres (with mountain and snowflake) do the job all the year round for me despite not being actual winter tyres.
Winter tyres do wear out in the Summer but under about 7C they give better grip than summer tyres due to the softer compound. Over the lifetime of the tyres, the only extra cost to running two sets of tyres is the extra set of wheels - as long as you change over in Spring/Autumn.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 222

Well popped out and had passive immobilisation turned off, and the battery finally gave in. Trip to halfrauds

Halfrauds: Sir you need this one for your car..
Me : No I want the biggest that will fit in the tray.
Halfrauds : No sir you must use this one, it could damage the electrics in your car if you use the wrong one.
Me : Well I am buying this one.
Halfrauds : That sir will be £15 to fit it!!!
Me : I will buy a 13mm and 10mm spanner for £9 then

Off he went.

10 minutes later brought back the 10mm and 13mm spanners for a refund.

Only problem now is brake pad was damaged due to last fault so next on the list is a full set of pads and discs i think. There will not be much left original soon.

Anyway anyone have any idea on the correct spigots and nuts as per my first post?

Thanks.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 2441

Did the Hellfrauds battery actually go in the right way round? The one they swore blind would fit my P38 had the terminals the wrong way so I told them to sod off and bought the Hankook.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 222

Yes it’s only the 90ah I was going to order the hankook one tomorrow as I have to wait in all day on Thursday anyway. But have to drive to a client site in Oxford and then Buckingham tomorrow to collect the wheels. Don’t want to set of with a duff battery. 90ah 700 cold crack. £107. Not many had the terminals the right way around. Makes you wonder why they haven’t come up with a system that allows you to swap them around.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 2312

Rcutler wrote:

 Makes you wonder why they haven’t come up with a system that allows you to swap them around.

Well they sort of have- they put the battery posts on the centre line of the battery :)

Member
Joined:
Posts: 2441

Not on all batteries, thobut!

Member
Joined:
Posts: 222

Wheels all fitted and aligned, I have edited my first post as there were incorrect items linked. Also linked two photos.

The car handles better, got rid of the tram lining effect and feels more sporty. Ride is a little harder but its worth the odd bump for the handling upgrade.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 995

Rcutler wrote:

Well popped out and had passive immobilisation turned off, and the battery finally gave in. Trip to halfrauds

Halfrauds: Sir you need this one for your car..
Me : No I want the biggest that will fit in the tray.
Halfrauds : No sir you must use this one, it could damage the electrics in your car if you use the wrong one.
Me : Well I am buying this one.
Halfrauds : That sir will be £15 to fit it!!!
Me : I will buy a 13mm and 10mm spanner for £9 then

I used to work for Halfords (a long time ago) and I seem to remember something about the warranty on batteries being voided if fitted to the "wrong" vehicle. Also, when I was there the battery their book insisted would fit the P38 didn't. The terminals were in the wrong place as Morat said above. This didn't work well with their warranty policy.

I don't miss that place.

I think it was "only" £5.99 to fit a battery when I was there too! They used to hound us to sell as many fits as possible as it's pure profit for them. There's no cost of buying in stock, storage etc. They also had a sort of commission scheme for selling fits. The staff would be paid a certain amount for each one they sold, leading to some quite pushy behaviour and scare tactics about what could wrong if you did yourself etc.

There was also little to no training involved for anything that they fitted. Having seen some of the things the people I worked with managed to do, I'd only let someone I actually knew fit anything for me at Halfords!

Member
Joined:
Posts: 819

I fitted the same RR Sport wheels to mine. As you found, spigots and RRS wheel bolts are what are required.

I need to sort the rideheight though, it seems to sit far too high in "normal" mode.

Keep meaning to buy some nylon rod and making up some blocks to set the height properly on all four corners.

Oddly, these cars seem to have fairly limited suspension travel. It was sitting on the bump stops the other night after the self levelling went a bit stupid, and i realised that actually, there is waaay less travel than one would expect. Infact, sitting on the bumpstops gave it the sort of arch clearance you'd get at factory height on something like a modern RRS.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 1327

Might look good sitting at access height, but with my wheels I’d grind the wing away if I tried to drive, lol, I think a lot when low profile tyres are fitted is an optical illusion. I look at getting my clenched fist between tyre and arch as standard

Member
Joined:
Posts: 819

Its just a modern car thing, and something that dates the P38 to the era its from.

Older cars from the era of the P38 tended to have large arch gaps and fairly small wheels. Its the same wether you look at an SUV or a family hatchback and everything in between.

As we tended towards larger alloys, the ratio of arch-gap to tyre starts to look a bit silly so cars are redesigned to suit. If you look at a modern range rover, the gap around the tyre to the arch is even, its the same at the top as it is at the sides:

http://www.usedvehicles.landrover.co.uk/css/landrover/models/sport.jpg

To achieve that look on a P38, your basically running on the bump stops. Which is somewhat annoying, as the P38 looks good like that!

That said, mine at "normal" height i'm sure is more than a "clenched fist" which is why i want to make some blocks and do the calibration.