I've just replaced the EAS compressor!
I can't find a leak in or near the valve block/dryer but according to the nanocom the exhaust valve does seem to be open then shut quite a lot even when the compressor is running. How should it be behaving?
For the record, the compressor filled the reservoir in about 6 minutes and then shut off, so I'm confident that bit is OK. When I shut the boot and let it lift to motorway height the compressor kept running for another 5 minutes before I shut it off. I guess there's either a leak to or in a bag or the valve block is doing stupid things. I'll have to do some grovelling in the snow and see what's up.

Let's hope Marty's compressor didn't die the comprehensive death of its predecessor and I can use my new rebuild kit to provide a spare!

Curiouser and curiouser
After work I started it up and after a few minutes the compressor went off. I drove it home (5 miles) at motorway height with the nanocom on my knee and the compressor stayed off all the way.

Did you drain all the moisture out of the tank when you did the rebuild recently? It might be something silly like moisture freezing in the valve block.
EDIT- actually, are you sure you have a problem? If the bags were empty after you did the compressor (did you deflate the whole system?!), then it might well take more than 6 mins to fill them. That's quite a big volume of air across 4 bags to get up to 55 PSI.

Moisture out of the tank... that's a new one for me.
To teh Googles!

I'm not sure I have problem now but the compressor definitely sounded sick. More rattle than hum.
If I can't find a fault then I guess I just have to hope it doesn't eat the brand new (but Dunlop) compressor as quickly as the last one.

Has the seal just worn out on it? Have you taken the top off it to see what the state is inside?

Not yet but I will! I got a refurb kit in the same parcel so hopefully it will be back as a spare.

Hmm, can you send me a pic of the inside when you do?

If the seals etc are sub-par then I will need to look at finding another supplier, as 3 odd months isn't really decent for a rebuild kit to last... The ones I've put in my RR have lasted nearly 5 years now, (though I do want to swap them out sooner rather than later) and I'm sure they were from the same supplier. Though mine are definitely working harder now!

Sure. The last thing you need is to be let down by supplier. We all know you do good work.
There's a lot to eliminate in the air lines and bags before the compressor becomes the prime suspect.

Morat wrote:

Moisture out of the tank... that's a new one for me.

For lots of other people too. I've seen reference to it (and done it) but can't seem to find it in RAVE. It involves removing a plug at one end of the tank but as it is full of compressed air, the system needs to be depressurised first.

Tank inspection + Dryer replacement?
It's a Service Item, but not a lot of people know that :)

From EAS SID:
NEW RANGE ROVER
A nine-liter supply tank is mounted to the chassis on the right side. As in the Classic, a single
nylon line serves as both inlet and outlet. The inspection interval is also 30,000 miles, with
dryer replacement required if moisture is encountered. As in the Classic, two reservoirs are
specified depending on VIN: up to VIN TA340460 use ANR3645; from VIN TA340461 and
up use ANR5135.

RAVE

EDIT- gets a few lines in the Service Schedule as well, but at 2 year intervals. Items 5 to 8.

if it's possible, just send me the faulty one back. I have others here, so can send you a replacement. I'd like to investigate it more to see if there is a bigger issue at play.

Can do, Marty. Do you want the rebuild kit as well? (it seems only fair). I got it from Island4x4 - I don't know who made it.

On the way into work, the compressor ran for another five minutes. It came on straight away to compensate for the overnight levelling (there's nowhere level to park) and then I let it go into Normal height. After the compressor went off, it stayed off until I parked. When I let go of the footbrake the nose did a little wiggle and the compressor ran for another minute or so to replace the used air. I guess.

I'll see if I can drain the tank at the weekend, a frozen valve block seems unlikely. The dryer was replaced two years ago and the dessicant was replaced again two months ago. There could be water in the system but the failure occured at lunchtime rather than in the morning. Of course it's a relatively short drive to work...
hmm.

I still don't understand the exhaust valve - it seems to come on and off at random. I'd have thought it came on when the car was lowering but it seems that isn't the case.

I have a big box of matches I can send you, Morat!!

Like I said before Morat, stick a yellow relay in place of the EAS timer relay to eliminate overnight levelling (no matter how wonky the land is that you park on). Put the proper one back in if you need to talk to the ECU.

Orangebean wrote:

Put the proper one back in if you need to talk to the ECU.

Any standard 4 pin relay will talk to the ECU, only when engine is running.
Just don't know the required rating, 20, 30 or 40 amps.

Orangebean wrote:

Like I said before Morat, stick a yellow relay in place of the EAS timer relay to eliminate overnight levelling (no matter how wonky the land is that you park on). Put the proper one back in if you need to talk to the ECU.

It's a good plan - I don't suppose you have a link to the right sort of relay please?

send me your address again and I’ll pop one in the post, pick your colour, yellow or black,,

I don't necessarily need the rebuild kit - feel free to keep it as spare for the future! If you don't want it, and it makes it's way into the box, then that's fine too.

Let me know what the postage cost is, and I'll reimburse you - or take it off the cost of the door latch I have here for you or something like that!

Relay - 20/30/40A any should be fine, as I think the EAS feed is fused at 10A in the underbonnet fuse box.

It's on the way! don't worry about the postage especially if you're sending one back. It's just going plain parcel force.
I haven't put a note in the box but it should be obvious :)

Cool, thanks..

I'll send one back once I've had a look at the one coming back, to make sure nothing more sinister is happening and will get one sent back to you next week before I head away for work.

I did a 'health check' on one I fitted for another owner a couple of weeks after doing yours, and it's still running strong, and put a pressure gauge on it and still easily got above 160psi. So hopefully it's just an isolated issue... Incidentally the old one I replaced for the other owner was also a Dunlop one, which wasn't that old!