Hey guys

Major issues.

Car won't start. I st turned it off 5 minutes ago and now nothing.

All lights come as normal but when you turn the key, nothing. Doesn't attempt to start. No warnings. No dimming lights.

Starter motor?

Currently blocking someone's drive with 3 passengers. Help!

XYZ switch? Check the obvious - make sure the dashboard indicates it is in park or neutral. IIRC Thor engines won't turn over if they're immobilised, but GEMS will.

Can you jumper across the starter solenoid relay in the fusebox to get it to turn over?

Have you checked the maxifuse for the compressor and starter solenoid?

Thor will turn over if immobilised but GEMS won't.
As GJP says- Maxifuses?
Put 12v +ve into the small pin on starter solenoid, or, if brave connect across from main power cable to the spade terminal
Usual precautions about in Park, brakes on, and playing with high current items

Hi Gordon.

Xyz is good I think. Changed within last 6 months and dash shows correct gears. I've got it in P but no dice.

How do I check immobilisation? I've got no dash warnings. Locked and unlocked car to make sure. Key flashes as normal when you insert it into ignition.

How would I jumper the starter solenoid relay? I have no idea.

I'll check maxi fuses.

Thanks

I think my post has the answers to all of your questions! GJP had it backwards- GEMS doesn't spin over, Thor will...

Just been back to car (its in another village). Checked fuses. Nothing seems out of order. Had a spate 30a relay in car so tried that in place of R2 starter relay and R16 starter motor. No difference.

I did notice that although pressing my fob unlocks the doors and the led on the fob lights up, when I put the key in the ignition, it doesn't flash. I'm pretty sure it used to. Is that right?

It'll only flash in the ignition if passive immobilisation is enabled, if you've had it disabled then it won't. Does sound like a starter motor problem to me. You could try giving it a whack with something heavy in case it is brushes down to the limit, a bit of percussive maintenance can shift them just enough. Do you get absolutely nothing or can you hear the starter relay click in? Don't confuse this with the click from the relay in the BeCM that drops out during cranking.

Back at home now. Had to bring the Mrs and the kids home. Recovery on the way. Sending a man first to have a look at it. Doubt he'll be a range rover expert but you never know.

@Gilbert I'm pretty sure that i was getting nothing. Just the click from the becm that you mentioned. All lights come on as normal. When i turn the key, the only thing that happens is the radio restarts and the leds on the gear shift go out and come back on.

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

When i turn the key, the only thing that happens is the radio restarts and the leds on the gear shift go out and come back on.

That's as the relay in the BeCM drops out to disconnect them so the keyswitch is working and telling the BeCM that you are turning the key. As long as it is in Park or Neutral, the BeCM then sends an earth from pin 2 of C1282 (a White/Red wire) which goes to one side of relay 16 with the other side having power on it from fuse 40. That should operate the relay and send 12V to the starter solenoid. Putting a jumper between pins 1 and 5 of the relay socket should cause the starter to spin. If it doesn't, it's the starter (or the connections to it).

So try jumping relay 16.

How are you numbering the pins Gilbert?

Top and bottom pins are 1 & 2 but you'll need to check which one has the 12V on it to be sure which is which. 3 & 5 are the two on each side but 3 will also have 12V on it so you can jumper the two outer ones and that should cause the starter to spin.

So recovery man turned up. Was told he was coming to a flat battery apparently. He knew nothing about cars other than how to use a battery booster he said. Said i knew more than him so he just stuck it on his truck.

Had a go with the hammer. It almost wanted to turn over but instead i got a hissing sound like air escaping from the starter motor. So i assume i've found the problem.

Certainly sounds that way. Top bolt is a bit awkward to get to but not a difficult job at all..

Need a wobbly extension for top bolt??

Also just looked in Rave. What's the gearbox RH acoustic panel?

Sound deadening, but it fell off mine years ago (or someone took it off and didn't put it back as it's never had one since I've owned it). For the top bolt you can either use a very long extension and go in from the front but I found that a 3/8 drive universal joint wrapped in insulation tape so it is almost rigid and a 2" extension means you can get the ratchet in immediately behind the starter. If you don't want to disconnect the battery, carefully slacken the nut holding the cable so you don't earth it against anything, then when the cable is off, shove a lump of heater hose over then end of it to insulate it while you take the starter off.

cheers bud.

Hopefully motor factors will have one on the shelf or be able to get me one for tomorrow afternoon.

Is there not any auto electricians near you that could redo your starter, I’m of the opinion I’d rather have a genuine starter/ alternator, than the cheap Chinese rubbish flooding the market,, as Gilbert said, most probably just brushes are gone, my alternator cost me a fiver for the brushes.

You wouldn't think a starter would be such a critical component, after all, you only need it for a couple of seconds, but with a dead one you can have a car that is perfect in every other way. But as you can't bump start an auto and they stopped fitting starting handles many years ago, if the starter is dead, you are completely stuffed. I used to carry a spare in the boot when I went on my European trips for just that reason. I had visions of stopping for fuel in the middle of nowhere and being stuck there if the starter died. It did eventually but at home so I just crawled underneath and bunged the spare on. Really must get that one rebuilt so I have a spare again. My car clocked over 350,000 on my way back home on Monday (and nearly up to 351,000 now)......

Or get el cheapo to tide you over until you can get the real one rebuilt?

I fitted one of these £65.00- lasted a year and went phut. Replaced FOC by supplier. Still working
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-CLASSIC-P38-3-5-3-9-4-0-4-6-V8-BRAND-NEW-STARTER-MOTOR-1981-2002/302515291957?
Perhaps guaranteed used? £30
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-4-6-V8-Petrol-Starter-Motor-With-Warranty-I/263456280395?