It isn't completely dead as it can still put the transfer box into neutral but it definitely sounds like it isn't responding to the switch. There'a few on eBay for around a tenner.

Thanks i was going to look on there but if you all don,t mind can i slip another question in here , when i was locating my ECU i found the EAS ,ecu and wondered, can i remove that totally as my r/r has coil springs fitted no switches on the dash no level valves ect but EAS compressor is still there but will this create other issues sorry to add an exctra question thanks steve

Coil springs? Oh dear. If the compressor is still there then chances are the valve block is too as it's bolted to the top of it. No point in removing the EAS ECU, you'd only have to put it back when you see the light. Once you get the opportunity to drive one on EAS, you'll know you just have to......

Hi i forgot to ask before but when checking the the ecu should i have disconected it or left it conected as i said i am not that good when it comes to electrics thanks again steve

Leave it connected or all you are doing is applying the earth to the other side of the switch. You need to let the ECU see the earth so it thinks the switch has been operated.

Thanks i didnt think i was doing it rite i will check it as soon as i can thanks again or all you help

Hi guys well i earthed the purple and green wire on the ecu and low and behold i had lights on the dash and the low range lights on the gear selecter flashing.
But what is my next step and what do i look for thanks again for your help

Try and find the switch and test it - A multimeter would tell you if you have a connection when its operated. Or use it in a simple circuit with a bulb and battery, if you connect one side of the switch to a battery, the other side to one side of a bulb and then the other side of the bulb to the other side of a battery then operating the switch should switch the bulb on or off (the opposite of what its doing when you don't press the switch). If it doesn't light up then either your switch is dead, or your doing something wrong, Easy way to test that is to remove the switch from the circuit and see if the bulb lights up. If it does then the switch is dead.

Also if you use a bulb it won't matter which way round the wires are as long as they don't touch each other, same applies to the switch.

That means either the switch isn't doing anything cuz it's broke or the wire between the switch and the ECU has a break in it somewhere. There's no connectors to go green and hairy between the switch and the ECU so it's a break in the wire, the switch itself or the earth connection on the other side of the switch (on the black wire).

Hi i assume that the switch is the limit switch on the gear selecter if this is not the case were else would i look thanks again

There's a switch under the gear lever that operates when you push the lever across to the low side. It is this switch that has the Purple/Green wire on one side and a Black wire on the other.

Hi again so i suppose i am looking at major surgery to get at the wiring , and remove the gear stick assembly to get at the switch as i suppose the offending wire or wires go every which way but loose around the car lol thanks again steve

Hello guys well low range is now working thanks to you guys .
But i do not no why ? i took apart the console ect i took the top of the gear selector which was very loose i found the limit switch and unplugged and took that out i then checked the black wire in the loom had continuity to earth and it did .
I then checked the switch with the meter a bit fiddly so not sure it was working so i got the mrs to help and checked again and it worked on & of , i then reconnected it and turned the ign on and lights come on the dash .Then i put it all back together and everything is working as it should . i do not no why there is a few wires going to the switch when only 2 are used i am also considering fitting a switch of a manual gear box as i no limit switches are not the strongest items in the box any thoughts on this idea
All i have to do now is sort my c/control not working and sorting my brakes making a brrrrrrrring /clicking noise just before coming to a halt at slow speed new pads fitted front and rear calipers working fine.
I will prob start another post about these other issues if that is the correct way to do it.
Anyway sorry for going on a bit but thanks again for all your help
steve

Sounds like it was loose enough to not make contact and putting it back together properly was enough. If I was you I'd call it fixed and move on :) After all, it's not vital. Not as vital as air springs ;)

I'd leave it - even if the limit switch 'isn't the strongest item' - it's still been there for nearly 17 years minimum! So even if you replaced it for a new one, I'd say it would be good for another 17+ years...

Adding a manual switch is probably more of a pain to do and get working properly than calling that fixed and moving on to other things.

It could just be that one of the connections was dirty, and unplugging/replugging the wires has got a good connection again, or it could be the switch was a bit misaligned, and removing/replacing it has got it aligned properly again, and all working as it should.

Brakes - were new discs fitted too? or just pads?

Cruise control... if it's a petrol, then check/replace all the vacuum pipes. Also check connector in LH front footwell, behind the kick panel.as the wires from the cruise ECU to the vacuum pump go through one of those connectors (which are known to corrode).

If it's GEMS Petrol, and none of those sort it, then it could be the ECU as they were known to fail randomly - usually due to dry solder joints on the PCB

Hi i have the thor engine so i will check the pipes and the other parts.. As for the brakes the disc are nearly new i have just fitted a new acumerlater but has made not much difference i am not loseing any breaking power in fact the brakes are brill it is just the very last second before stopping

Chances are the cruise control pipe to the brake pedal is leaking. Pull it off the cruise actuator and try blowing down it. If you can blow down it, there's the problem. 8mm ID pipe needed, my local motor factors do a nice high temperature plastic pipe that fits perfectly.

As for the brakes, did you fit the anti rattle shims and springs when you changed the pads and what pads did you fit?

the brrr/clicking noise is probably the ABS firing up because it thinks a wheel has locked.

I've had this before on another car and it was due to a cracked reluctor ring on the CV that the ABS sensor reads. The sensors produce a voltage spike as each "tooth" passes the sensor, and at low speeds this voltage gets smaller. If the ring is damaged or corroded, or the sensor air gap isnt right, the signal can get so small at low speeds that the ECU can no longer detect the pulses and thinks the wheel has locked, and so fires up the ABS trying to fix it.

On that car, it was possible to use the diagnostic computer to view the individual wheel speed sensors, and then driving along very slowly at like 5mph you could see one wheel wasnt reading properly, but if you sped up even to 10mph, they all started reading correctly. When i took it apart the reluctor ring on the CV had cracked due to rust. You could buy replacement rings for that model, but i had a spare CV so just swapped the whole thing out and that was it fixed.

You can read the individual ABS sensors on a Nanocom up to about 4mph. I'd recommend a large car park or a co-pilot!

If one is giving a weak signal, all it needs is resetting. Give all 4 a gentle tap with a mallet and see if that cures it. One car I worked on was giving a fault and checking with the Nanocom showed that all were giving an output but one was slower to react than the others, a swift clout sorted it.