Having been supplied with a replacement one way valve for the rear screen washer by Clive, fitting that and adjusting the nozzle so it sprayed onto the rear window and not the ground behind the car, I was able to say that absolutely everything worked as it should on my car. After 5 days of this almost unheard of state, the book symbol came up on the HEVAC. Nanocom reported a compressor clutch fault and setting the HEVAC to Lo on both sides and noting that the compressor clutch didn't engage I concluded that there was indeed a fault that didn't have an obscure description. Did a bit of checking and found that the reason it wasn't engaging was no continuity through the trinary switch. Reason for that was that it has no refrigerant pressure in it.....

I did notice that although the AC was working last summer, it seemed a bit feeble so it looks like I now need to get it re-gassed. Although the reason for it losing pressure could be down to a minor leak somewhere (it was last gassed about 2 summers ago) so I think this is going to get a bit more involved. Then, to add insult to injury, last night I switched the lights on, the dash beeped and the message centre came up with RH sidelight failed. So from no faults I've got two in the space of two days!

Only 2 faults, I’d be happy with that, you do more miles than any of us, how many 20 yr old cars are still running, let alone towing for hundreds of miles at a time.
You know your not happy unless the bonnets open , lol

True, you mentioning 20 years old made me look at the V5, first registered 18/3/98 so I've just missed it's 20th birthday (in fact, thinking about it, I sorted the rear washer on its 20th birthday, how ungrateful is that?). That combined with the 353,200 miles on the clock suggests I'm doing something right.

Glad the non return valve worked OK. Don't feel quite so bada bout having 9 more in stock in a Britpart bag.

Clive

Charlie Browns was running an AC regas, AC works or no fee operation until recently and I think other firms do the same; bur I've been past what was a Charlie Browns today and noticed it had changed to a 'Tyre warehouse' which doesn't run the same AC scheme.

Can buy a DIY AC recharge kit from Halfords, I have one but it's only really economical if the AC just needs a top-up, otherwise you'e better off going to a 'no win no fee' setup as mentioned above.

A very basic test of AC system condition (as in leak / no leaks) is just to depress the low pressure side schrader valve, it there's still pressure in there chances are it just needs a regas.

I've used Kwik fit for aircon before. Fix or free. It worked fine, and I like the fact that they actually pull vacuum and get rid if all the old stuff.

There nothing wrong with Halfords kits but it didn't work out much cheaper last time I checkef.

When I got mine regassed, I went to halfrauds, when the guy came out with a tin of gas I nearly died laughing, obviously I went elsewhere, I paid 40 quid, system was vacuumed first, then correct amount of oil and gas added, took an hour.
Nice and cold when needed

Lpgc wrote:

Charlie Browns was running an AC regas, AC works or no fee operation until recently and I think other firms do the same;

Charlie Browns is based up your way, none around here.

Can buy a DIY AC recharge kit from Halfords, I have one but it's only really economical if the AC just needs a top-up,

But it doesn't, it's got no pressure in it and you'd need quite a few cans to achieve the 1250 grams a P38 needs.

A very basic test of AC system condition (as in leak / no leaks) is just to depress the low pressure side schrader valve,

Or put a pressure gauge on it like I did......

Done properly it's pressurised with Nitrogen first to check that it holds pressure, then vacced, then refilled with the correct amount of gas and oil. I'm considering giving Kwik Fit a try if they do it properly, otherwise I'll just try and get it booked in where it was done last time. I'm thinking it may have a leak, as it's only lasted 2 years since last filled, but as it had the UV dye put in last time it was done, I can't see any signs of it having come out anywhere. Haven't had the grille off yet to see if it is the condenser and hoping I'm not going to have to take the dash and heater box out to get to the evaporator

Top left corner of the condenser is the favourite spot to corrode and leak. If the foam block is still present (whether you have a leak or not) I would remove it, as it traps water on the corner and can only help speed up the process.

The other place I found a very small leak was the suction line (big pipe) along the firewall. Where it was pressed into the sound insulation foam and sweats, the moisture was absorbed by the foam which again, corroded out the back of the pipe. Nitrogen and the good old soapy water found that one - albeit a very small leak.

Mine lasted bit over about 2 years on fill before last. Turned out to be a small leak in the condenser.

Halfrauds did first fill immediately after I got the car, which only lasted a year. Lady from local National Aircon franchise has done the test'n fill thing for me since. Mobile service, comes round in van with all the bits and equipment. Pure serendipity, she was doing one for guy across the road as I came home from the shop so I asked if she could do mine whilst she was in the area. Cheaper than Halfrauds and obviously knew what she was doing. She reckons that Halfrauds underfill big systems. Could be right as the Halfrauds fill only lasted a year but her first try went a little over two. All good since changing the condenser.

Condenser change is pretty easy except for getting those aluminium connections undone. Bitch job from hell that is because the nuts deform when you heave on them and there is bugger all room for a spanner on the right. I needed 3 to get the angles of dangles. Refit was breeze tho' as only final tweak needed a spanner. Couldn't believe how easy it is to get the bumper off. Why aren't all cars done that way? Paid extra for a Hella condenser as it was supposed to be OEM and I didn't want to arse around with things that didn't line up or slot straight in. Some hope. Poxy thing didn't go in right and fixings didn't line up either. Cue nearly an hour pouncing around getting it just so.

Clive

I use a local independent mobile guy. He's so thorough that I usually end up looking at my watch and grinding my teeth, but he charges me a flat rate so it's his time.
I get a purge, nitrogen fill and leak tests (he has a sniffer and a high frequency stethoscope as well as just waiting for a pressure drop) as well as a meticulously weighed refill of refrigerant and lube oil which he insists I watch!
As well as my battered condenser I had a pinhole in a pipe in the same place as Sloth and replaced the dryer as I didn't know how long the system had been open to air.
Used a Nissens condenser. Took some mods to the mountings to get it to fit though.

Fitted new condenser and dryer two years ago. Still not fitted o-rings. Must do that and then gas.

To be honest, the novelty of driving everywhere with the windows down all year round still hasn't worn off.

Down here in Southampton the weather has, for the last couple of days at least, been good enough to that point where having the windows down to hear the V8 making the sound of its people has been quite pleasant :)

I really must finish sorting my exhaust... stupid ebay crap.

My exhaust split just where the big long bendy pipe that goes across the axle goes into the back box, so I replaced the back box (which appears to just be a huge glasspack) with a chunk of 63mm stainless tube. The noise difference is only really noticeable under bridges with the window down.

Just back from getting it re-gassed. Pressure test showed no leaks after 30 minutes so it seems everything is OK. As it was done at the same place as last time, their records showed it was nearly 4 years ago when it was last done so it hasn't lost pressure as quickly as I thought. So, pushing my luck and saying, everything is working as it should again.

Bugger, after only 5 hours this time the book symbol is back. First thought was that I had a leak and had dumped all 1250 grams of R134a out but checked the AC and not only does the clutch kick in but it also got extremely cold. Nano is now reporting Distribution Motor stalled.......

Perhaps it's frozen with all that newly icy air? :)
Tried driving it with the "Force" in Nano?

Yup, stuck at 80%......

So I pulled the distribution blend motor over the weekend, cleaned out the motor, swapped the feedback pot for one that didn't have a dead spot at one end of it's travel, gave it a couple of little dobs of silicon grease and that sorted that out. All blend motors now moving just as they should, although the left blend motor does go to 105% when set on full heat (?). Still had the book showing after a couple of minutes running and fault showing compressor clutch again. Checked it with a pressure gauge and found that all 1250 grammes of refrigerant had indeed gone walkabout. Back to the garage after work today. When they gassed it they used vacuum to check for leaks and there weren't any. Today they put 10 bar of Nitrogen in it and the ultra violet torch showed the oil dribbling down the front of the condenser but from behind one of the fans. Seems that it has worn through by chaffing on the fan frame and the vacuum had sucked the fan frame over the hole so it didn't leak. With pressure it just squirted it out. So I've just ordered a Britpart condenser because a) it was the cheapest and b) has a 2 year warranty compared with a 1 year one on the more expensive ones. I also ordered the O rings too just in case it doesn't come supplied with any.

I'm blaming you for being a trendsetter yet again Gilbertd.
Gave mine its weekly glance around under the bonnet today and noticed green slime around the manifold to compressor joint. Aircon still works, but won't for much longer obviously!
Typical- it worked all through the winter, now warmer days are coming I have to de-gas it and repair the bloody O rings.