.> Worst case, reset the fault, manually pump up the system so it's riding on air, and then pull the ECU connector or delay timer relay - it will then have air in the springs, but not control the valves to let it out... then we can look at it when you get here :)

A couple of bits of wire in the ECU connector will also just give an EAS MANUAL message on the dash, rather than all the beeps and hard fault messages. .<

OK, this is a bit advanced for a biff like me.
The dash isn't giving any messages. There's nothing in the EAS fault memory apart from 1x "invalid fault code" which I can clear but without visible change.
The EAS christmas tree is solid on the access mode and flashing on any other mode you try to select because it's just not rising (ooer).
Compressor runs.

I'll switch it on tonight and stick my head underneath to see if I can see/hear any leaks.

How do you pump up the EAS manually? I'm guessing that if there's a leak, I'm stuffed until I can sort that but if the compressor has failed then I should be able to run as Marty suggested.

Have you trawled through this Morat? <br>
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/airsuspension/suspump.html#jumpers

OK, that is very useful - thank you.
I'll see if there are leaks tonight. If not I should be OK but I do think it's very likely that there will be one somewhere. The Compressor is running, no visible faults, but the suspension stays at the bottom. If there is a leak I think I'll remove the compressor relay to stop the compressor burning out and try to get it to a LR specialist.

Quick test- disable EAS by opening drivers door. If tank empty and compressor good it should fill in 12-15 mins. <br>
If not, check compressor output by disconnecting its output hose and put finger over hole. You should feel a significant build up of pressure and it should be virtually impossible to keep it blocked <br>
Once you know compressor is good, as it happened so suddenly odds are its a popped line or bag. Out with the soapy water and slather over everything, but you should be able to hear a hissing anyway- especially if you did line 1 and your tank is full. Once you shut the door and EAS is enabled again, with a full tank if it's a big hole- you'll hear it!

All advice gratefully received! Orangebean I think you've nailed it with the line suggestion. I've already been out and I've found a leak (it might not be ALL the leaks) but there's a problem with the EAS Dryer. I sprayed it with soapy water and it looked OK but with a little wiggle on the line it bubbled like crazy. Then I put my hand on the bottom line and could feel cold air coming out. I'll get a new one ordered ASAP - is there anything special I should know about?

In other news, the suspension is actually about 2cm off the bumpstops all round. Good news for the bags, bad news for me getting my fat head under the thing and having a proper look at all the lines. My mate with a lift has an old Bentley in bits so I won't be able to beg him for a decent look underneath. Would 230 mainly motorway miles on 2cm of travel be a really really bad idea?

The compressor runs/stops/runs but it doesn't seem to get very hot. I'll go and test the output as suggested.

I did phone the local specialist who immediately sucked his teeth and started telling me how expensive valve blocks were at £700. Hmm :/

Assuming the housing's not cracked (unlikely) buy something like this <br>
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P38-RANGE-ROVER-AIR-DRYER-REPAIR-KIT-NTC9812-FOR-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-/281760805564?fits=Plat_Gen%3AMK+II&hash=item419a40b2bc:g:wXQAAOSwr41XHzPL <br>
clean up the ends of the pipes with a pencil sharpener, replace the o rings and job done! <br>
If you don't want to do that, just buy this: <br>
https://www.lrdirect.com/NTC9812-supplied-by-britpart-branded-oem.html <br>
clean up pipe ends, shove em in and away you go

If one of the lines on the drier is leaking badly, is it possible to bypass the drier temporarily? Say the bottom line has a leak, can it be removed from the valve block end, and the top drier line fed straight into that receptacle? Not ideal, but it would get it working, and I'm sure we can resolve it on the weekend. I imagine the desiccant in most driers these days is probably a useless powdery mess anyway...

Do you mean connect compressor output direct to NRV1 and thus direct to the tank Sloth? That like it might work as a short term fix as far as circuit diagram goes. <br>
You could just connect input and output pipes together- still have to buy an 8mm pneumatic connector though, although as a field repair you could bung in any old barbed connector and wire pipes on or something

I went out to test the compressor and thought "I wonder if...."
So I rammed the hoses into the dryer and she popped up! As soon as I let go, the hissing started again. So I'm going to leave her on the level overnight and if she's still in "Normal" position in the morning I reckon I'll be able to get to summer camp. \o/
If the new dryer arrives in time I'll have a bash at fitting it, if not I'll take the relay out and drive down in one position all the way. I don't want to take the chance of the compressor running for hours at a time.
So today went PANIC PANIC PANIC check on forum -> fixed. Thanks guys, really appreciate it!

Now you've got it up to height, pull the delay timer and leave it out. Then you'll be sure that, worst case, it'll stay pumped up to travel!